I just like to listen to you talk, Tony. I wish my shop teacher spoke and used humor like you do while explaining. I’d listen more in class. I’ll be a junior in high school this coming school year.
Introduce your shop teacher to the various RU-vid production houses dealing in shop work then. If they can't adopt some of the techniques in class they can at least pass along these contacts as guides for their students.
I have worked for large companies and they used to collect all worn or damaged cutting tools and send them out for re-sharpening! You are NOT a cheap skate. Enjoy your videos much more than a lot of other channels. Cheers.
@@lifuranph.d.6607 They can be regrinded to specified diameter tho, I worked on Walter cnc grinders and most of the time the customers didnt care about the end dimensions so we usually took 0.2mm or 0.3mm from the diameter and from the face we took depending on damage of the mills So for regrinding I would rather send it to some company since it was really cheap to regrind couple of mills
Now if you were to take a 4" length of .350" diameter aluminum or Delrin and poke an 'N' drill in one end about .350" deep you could then press that pencil in and get LOTS more life out of it. Turn and dress the other end to a shallow dome for added flashiness.
That's one way to do it. Or, if you are of the additive manufacturing persuasion, you can 3d-print a (hideously overengineered) pencil stump holder... :D www.dropbox.com/s/pxo2weew38wosrc/2018-10-05%2016.53.39.jpg?dl=0 +This Old Tony
I've spent all day going through the archives. I can say that this is the first video of the modern This Old Tony. This is when he found his style that we've all come to love. Here's to many more years of fantastic content!
I know this is an old video, but I'm trying to catch up on all the "old" subjects as I work my way through your library. And this one brought up a lot of memories of my days as an apprentice tool and due maker. Early in my training I spent a year just sharpening cutters. I learned to sharpen cutters of every shape and size, and we had all the equipment needed to sharpen them properly! Back then (mid 1980's) the injection mold industry in Grand Rapids, Michigan was just then getting into inserted fly cutters (carbide and ceramic) and things of that type, but all that new stuff was extremely expensive, so almost everything was still cut using fluted HHS and carbide cutters, which needed to be regularly sharpened. Your video bright back A LOT of memories of that for me (...and I'd just gotten over my PTSD, too)!!!
After watching this two times, I've decided not to invest in this jig and instead send my end mills to you for sharpening. Thanks for assuring me that this is not how I want to spend time. But great video.
Best Services There must be some poor bugger you can just send your end mills through the interwebs to fly around awhile and return to you refreshed and ready to cut through the crap that is their 9-5 job. And that person probably just watched this video and said I do this by hand all day at a bench grinder.
Hi ! your videos are awesome Tony. I'm a machinist myself but i did that for only about a year. I'm a small engine technician for about 10 years now and i kind of miss using a late and a milling machine. I remember a lot because of your videos. You are a very talented machinist ! keep doing this. you rock and you are so funny ! best combo.
Grinding those shapes is so complicated, I don't have the tools but manually I always struggle with the bits and simple flutes. Thanks for your videos!
I've been an electrician for thirty years and just getting into machining as a hobby. I thought electricity was complicated but this machining stuff is much more complicated. Brain overload.
Tony Thomas Me too with being an electrician. Up until watching these videos, I thought I was pretty capable of tackling projects with a great cross section of life/work history The depth of the rabbit hole machining is overwhelming. I’d buy a new bit.
Can you believe i actually felt the roughness of the dimond-edges of these wheels? My index-skin thinned too... Great presentator who knows how to bang the steel
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) ha! Sorry Dale .. i suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later. Occupational hazard. :) I wouldn't let my video stop you though; as you saw it took a strange turn. I bet a standard 2 or 4 flute demo would be great. Plus, always good to see things from different perspectives.
@@andrewlockwood6102 Like a pig eatting bacon. Oh that's why people like me... I came for the show, and watched the comment's as I am re-watching Tony's shows. After 1 year, you got a "like".
I have a T&C grinder (actually a universal grinder), and this is one of the things I've been anxious to learn about. Thank you for posting this, and for being so enjoyable!
+Jon Miller Ouch, you don't usually see T&C Grinder and Hobbyist Budget in the same sentence, that's a tough one. I'd suggest you pick a few things you know you'd like to grind and see which fixture(s) you'd need to cover as many of your needs as possible. Maybe start with a "universal grinding fixture" (check ebay) .. like a DoAll or clone. Maybe a Spin Indexer, too. You could get both of those (import) at a reasonable price and see how far they get you. Have fun!
This Old Tony Yeah, it's an unusual situation. Even more so since I don't have my own mill or lathe (my two brothers each got those), but that's what can happen with inheritance. I've had thoughts of selling it to buy something that will get more use, but it's way too cool of a machine to let it go. (Covel #6 if you're curious.) Thanks again!
I have one of those end mill grinding fixtures. I got it in a box of stuff I bought at a yard sale. I had no idea how to use it, so your video was very helpful. I don't think I'd be bothered sharpening small end mills, but I have some 1/2"+ sizes, that I haven't had the heart to throw away.... cheap bastard! Who knows, if I have success with the big ones, I might actually sharpen some smaller ones! Because I'm cheap too.
When I regrind the front cutting edges I dont bother with secondary clearance and gashing - I just grind them with about 2...5° clearance to the center and to the back - They work very well but of course you cant plunge with them anymore. As I have a surface grinder now I might pick up that fixture too, would save me from use the single lip cutter grinder fot that purpose..
What I think it's only spindle motor connection issue. Metric grinders, as you call them, also have CW rotations. Maybe it's easier to work with grinder in a tight placement
For those of you trying to read that list of RU-vid machinist creators at about 0:13 (to see if you are on it??? I'm not.) Google Chrome has a method for stepping through a RU-vid video frame by frame. You pause the video and use the angle bracket keys "" (actually the comma and period since you don't hold down the Shift key). In this case it will disclose that the list has been repeated several times to make the fast scroll last longer. (This may change the playback speed when you resume normal play, but that can be corrected by clicking on the gear at the lower right of the playback window.) And now ... back to actually watching the video.
I just saw this old video and thought I had a good comment for This Old Tony. Then I got to the part where I could see the grinding dust flowing off the wheel... I've never run a surface grinder with that direction of rotation.
Like they often say, Tony, timing is everything. Thanks for an entertaining video even if it was made seven years ago. My god, have I got some binge watching to do. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🕊️🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲👍
I personally love the more "detailed" hacks , jigs, and improvising how-to videos... Your videos are very entertaining , and make me laugh either way! Thank you for that, and all you do. Yours is one of my top three favorite channels. 🖖😎
I once had a job running a CNC lathe at night all by myself. The day guy worked his ass off producing 93 stainless steel parts, taking no breaks nor lunch, sucking up to the boss when he came by (I know this, because he showed my how to run the machine). Best I could do was 84 and since I worked all alone I had no one to glad-hand! What to do? I figured by pushing the feed rate on the single large diameter steel drill used to remove most of the inside metal, I could make parts faster. So I doubled it. It worked, but the drill cutting edges wore out . So I rigged up a drill jig on a nearby surface grinder so I could quickly sharpen that lone drill while the CNC machine was running. Eventually, I increased the feed until I was in the realm of diminishing returns and settled on a happy medium. So for as long as that job ran, both day and night shift ran 93 parts apiece. The day guy pissed in a bottle behind the lathe and brown-bagged it, while I had plenty of time for breaks and could go to the dining area for lunch.
So, the thing is...I liked this kind of video before I saw you do this. It WAS boring in the other places I've seen this sort of thing. Your sense of humor adds exactly what it needs to be entertaining instead of just informative. I definitely would like to see more of these on your channel. Let's "face" it, their easy to do. Well...for the most part at least. As with all things, sometimes we need to "touch and go" at times. You know, not to make any milling puns or anything.
This is the only video I could find for the use of that tool. My old surface grinder came with one and could not find info on its use thanks. found this by accident the title was of little help, I was not doing a search for poop!
this fixture, and the 50lbs of HSS and carbide I just scored would give me a reason to fire up the WWII surface grinder thats occupied the corner of my garage since 2007.
Enjoyed your video, l think that you have convinced me to buy one of these fixtures. I did unsubscribe for a while because you hadn't posted any thing for a long time, it's great to see you back. I like the format and the humour. Cheers
You can use what I call a commentator stick to dress that style of diamond wheel. A commentator stick is what's used to seat the bushes on a generator or starter. The commentator stick removes the resin that bonds the diamond to the wheel.
I'm sharpening my drills and endmills using a diamond wheel on the mill (sorry that I do not have a surface grinder) and a rotary table with ER25 collet. Most important to get edges that remove the same amount of material is the angle you turn the mill in the rotary table from flute to flute. For your stevenson fuxture, I would place dents with precision on the outer diameter of the collet bearing and a spring loaded ball in a hole of the fixture that indexes into these dents. So the 180 (2 flute) or 120 (3 flute) degree angle will be reached with precision (you don't need 121 degrees at all). Sadly your stevenson fixture is not for drills, otherwise I would build one.
Great concept for a video series. I hope this is not the last. I don't have a surface guider and I always wondered how those fixtures work. I almost want to go out and buy one before I even get a grinder. Keep drinking the prune juice and I'm sure the next subject you need to extrude will be another one I can't wait to watch.
Marvellous stuff all round sir! An absolute joy to watch. I can safely say that I never expected to, as it were, hear myself saying that in reference to engineering videos. A wry sense of humour you have there old bean, blended well with an informative non brain pretzel making narrative.
to square a diamond wheel for grinding carbide you need either a Norton diamond stone which they come with the wheel when you buy one from Norton that is or molly (not the drug lol) .. nice video btw
Thanks for making time to do these. Your offbeat sense of humor cracks me up but I pity your wife. For those who'd appreciate a peek at this guy's favorites list, the one that flashed past us a warp speed in the introduction, here it is; Toms Techniques Clickspring SuburbanTool NYCCNC aVe MachiningMoments Keith Fenner MrPete Outsidescrewball Metal Tips and Tricks Abom79 Oxtool Keith Rucker BasementShopGuy Stefan Gotteswinter Shadow HKW James Kilroy myfordboy
Enjoyed the format and learned a fair amount about the geometry and techniques. Always appreciate the way you think about things and bring it forward! Nice to start on the most complex of forms...jump in both feet. You must have gotten the Wednesday batch of those wheels. I have a smaller cup that rolls like a gyroscope at the end of its spin cycle. I'm in for anything you do to produce more vids! ~¿@ Thanks Tony! Always fun and a Pleasure! ~PJ
If I have a fair sized carbide endmill that threw it cutting edges on the end (and I’ve got plenty!) I just use it for edge cutting. It’s rare that the flutes get damaged much beyond the end. By the way, when using a high helix cutter, don’t use it on material that’s less than the length between two flutes. A minimum of two flutes length thickness is needed for this, unless the work is very rigidly held close to the area being cut, because the cutters act as screws, and the material will lift if it’s too thin because instead of cutting, the bit tries to screw itself through the work.
I used to work at a machine shop making aerospace products, jet engine parts...etc. The new hires are almost always assigned to the Tool grinding area (unless it's the bosses son), It's a high turnover type job. If they can endure a few years there, they usually will move on to the production area making million dollar parts.
We have a tool grinder it can sharpen flutes and the ends. I’ve sharpened ends a couple times but we typically break the end mills before they ever see the grinder, :-)
I've got the 5C version and it works for the occasional need to do an end mill. One thing with diamond wheels on the surface grinder. Normally it is a good idea to indicate the wheel in. Wrap the OD with Scotch Tape and lightly tap the wheel to true it up with an indicator. Do not use the indicator on the diamond. Just don't how I know this. Also High Helix end mills may have less lateral forces but they have much higher end forces trying to pull them out of the collet
I got a press punch jammed under a grinding wheel once, it went flying across the room like a bullet. The grinding wheel stayed in one piece, there was a divet in the wheel but I dressed it up and it was fine.
I have used fixtures like this to sharpen perfect center cutting, flat bottoming end mills. Try to copy the grind angles of a new end mill. You really need a dish wheel to bring the cutting edges to center. Your secondary relief should be ground last to keep you from grinding the edge too thin, high helix end mills have thin enough cutting edges as it is.
You probably have ground many more end mills since this video was made and maybe figure it out that, that end Mill having sharp points at the end will break off in steel. Typically there is a "land" or small face only maybe .01 to .02 high to remove the sharp corner. Thanks for the great videos!
Not that this will do any good, but by complete accident, I watched a video today about fixing a hole in a 6 foot tall tractor tire. They used that EXACT grinding wheel on a large handheld grinder to remove some of the rubber around the damaged area. I went from never seeing it before in my life to twice in one day.
Thanks a lot Tony! I was looking at those about ten years ago but it's difficult for an amatuer to purchase something like that and then be disappointed when it doesn't work
Useful video! I just snagged an old Hammond tool and cutter grinder for cheep but it needs a collet holder. Your video inspired me to get a Phase II (since I have built in angle adjustment already) and adapt it to fit. The style you have would work too. Next thing I want to try is a Spindex to sharpen flutes (I'm cheap so awaiting a few tool auctions before I give up and use Ebay) If you are gonna do more videos I'd like to see your take on that method.
+Ob Fuscated Thanks for watching Ob. I've never tried flute sharpening with the Spindex, but interesting idea. I have a 'UniGrind' I've used once or twice.. dig back through the videos you should find a flute sharpening one. In theory I imagine it'd be the same.. you'd just need to fabricate a "finger"/flute tracer to rotate the endmill while you advanced it.
Ex father in law worked at a contract took grinding company where he did nothing but sharpen drill bits and endmills all day every day... huge batches... for machine shops.
Need some water or varsol on that wheel to wash away the carbide dust. Soak a little square rag in varsol and just rub it down while it's spinning. You'd be amazed how black the rag gets as well as how much better the wheel cuts when it's not being loaded
12:32 About the "trying to grind" you'd be surprised what a light dimmer hooked to a dremel can do in terms of control and I bought several of HF's cheap diamond cut off wheels just for jobs like this in my own woodworking tools. In fact the whole thing looks very much like a woodworker's jig one might come up with, but isn't there a small tool to sharpen those endmills? Even I don't mess around with drills and I can sharpen almost anything. I leave my drill sharpening to the drill doctor. The cheapie portable traveller model worked so well for me that I bought the larger industrial one which I think will do bits up to 3/4ths. For a woodworker that's huge in most regards and the forstners, spades and other such bits are easily hand sharpened as long as they don't have a spur. I also have a set of three diamond sharpeners that look like toothbrushes that you might want to purchase. Super handy for touch up work. The diamond impregnated stuff is remarkably tough -- I laughed at your thought of dressing it. I've never heard it done but I understand your intentions. Is carbide really toxic? You were kidding about that, right? If not I'd better get my dust collection system connected to everything. They don't mention that on my DD and it has a diamond wheel and can do carbide bits usually used on concrete block or glass. I wish you had done a 2 flute one because I've got a few of them. Diamond is awesome and I knew it was beyond my reach so about 2+ decades ago when I sent in one of my $50+ orders because they had free shipping (and I paid no state taxes on them, a triple savings in all!) I hand wrote it on their suggestion blanks and it took awhile but they started carrying them, then started discounting them, then I started buying that stuff up like it was gold. The only way I have worn one out was using a inch wide diamond drum sander in my router going at 25,000 RPM. I guess that is a little too much for them but that router had no way to slow it down and it had the required 1/4 inch chuck plus it was the most powerful tool I had that could chuck that up. Treat them nicely and they'll probably last the rest of your life and no you don't need to dress it. Great little show you got going, Tony. Thanks for sharing. Oh, could you recommend anything for us less tooled(no mill, no metal lathe) metalworkers to understand more about the scope of these kinds of tools? I just missed out on getting my Uncle's because it was halfway across the USA otherwise I would have went and picked it up. I now feel a compelling feeling towards mills and lathes but I don't really know why. I make small metal tools. Like a pushrod becomes a gouge, heat treated of course, a few knives, occasionally a garden tool or ice chopper made from a railroad connecting plate... we really need them that tough here in MN and all the HW stores sell are about 14 gauge. They're a joke and I've seen plenty of broken ones so I decided to make one that would not break.
Thanks MNViking.. I spent a couple of my formative years in the twin cities. Yes grinding carbide is toxic; careful! Though I suppose it depends just how much you do. Never heard of diamond toothbrushes!
Cemented tungsten carbide is only about 10% by mass cobalt, so it’s really no more hazardous than grinding a cobalt hss like m42. Stellite 98m2 on the other hand, is 31% by mass cobalt. I like to wear a mask and use a dust extractor when grinding that stuff.
Hi Tony Kevin from Aus you are going sharpen a end mill in surface grinder I always used the tool cutter grinder with a saucer wheel ,set your tooth up on centre high tilt your compound head up to give your primary then secondary angles give your cutter 1/2 degree angle towards centre if needed I worked in family eng business for 55years we would sharpen just about any things hss tct ,keep going you will get it all after time I did Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering Vic Aus.
crap, now i want one ...hey tony, since you no longer have a milling machine it stands to reason that you no longer need an end mill sharpening jig......
I have been told by someone who knows a lot about grinding that you dress a diamond wheel with a smaller diamond wheel that is counter-rotating against the wheel being dressed at about 1/3 of the rpm of the grinder.
I used to work at a tool and die shop with large diamond wheels that looked similar to yours,except larger. We dressed them by grinding soft cold rolled plate. No idea if that would work for yours but it might be worth a try.
my welding teacher in high school needed to use the machine shops surface grinder for something, tried grinding into the leading edge of the wheel, BANG that steel flew into the safety guard at the end of the table of the grinder so fast it sounded like a gun had gone off in the shop. my welding teacher could stick any 2 objects together no problem but he was definitely not qualified to touch the machine tools
