we're replacing our fluorescent with LED tubes; must do so because of health problems affected by the florescent. thank you for your demo video. it was very helpful.
There are 2 kinds of led tubes: one-end and two-end powered, this video is good for two-end power tubes, it means that both ends of the tube are wired as shown on video
Before removing the ballast and re-wiring your light fixture, verify how the power is running on the inside of your LED replacement bulbs - if the power is running on one side of the bulb, or on both sides. I recently purchased from Green Tek Energy Systems two of their T-8 Self Ballast LED Tube Lamps ( the bulb itself has printed on one end " in-put end"). In my situation the traditional ballast was still removed to rewire the halogen light fixture. My bulbs had both positive and negative located on the same end of the bulb, because of this, only one side my light fixture needed to be reconnected- not both sides. Even though only side of my light fixture was reconnected, the fixture still required a positive and negative connection for each light bulb, and was then directly wired back into the ceilings receptacle/gang box. I hope my explanation helps, in case anyone else wonders why their LED Halogen replacement bulbs are not working- after following the videos directions (which were spot on for a standard re-wire, but did not work for my one "in-put end" bulbs).
How's there near 400k reviews but less than 1000 👍? Quit bn lazy folks. These people make money so therefore are more encouraged to create more content. 💯👍👍
Video was helpful. Would have been nice to see you doing the rewiring instead of skipping over it, but you fortunately still said enough to where it wasn't hard to figure out. Thank you!
Most led bulbs only require power from one end so you don't need the red and blue wires. The two yellow wires should go to one tombstone and then a white wire jumps to the other tombstone. Cut the yellow wires near the power source. Hook one yellow to the black power and one yellow to neutral. Cut out all other wires at the ballast. No need to remove the ballast. It can stay in the light since the cover will hide it.
No need to physically take the ballasts out of the fixture or cut the wires off , just make sure they are not energized . Use the items included with the new LED bulbs. At some point, you might need to switch back over to the original bulbs or need a replacement ballast elsewhere. That’s how I retrofitted mine.
The installer was clear about tying the ends of each wire set together, and then attaching each set to a lead. If you need to see that done by him to understand what he meant, you should probably call an electrician. All you do is take the wires from one end and connect them to either the black (hot) lead or the white (neutral) lead, and do the same with the wires on the opposite side with the remaining lead. So, if you tie the two red and two blue wires to the black lead on one end, tie the two yellow wires to the white lead. Depending on your LEDs (Type A, B or C), you will also need either shunted or non-shunted tombstones installed, which is imperative to have right. I make no warranties or representations about these things, and always recommend speaking with a Master Electrician about wiring anything to reduce the risk of injury, fires, or death.
For these tubes that require connecting both ends you would take your "house power" (typically black) and connect it to one side and your "house neutral" (typically white) to the other side. You then take your ground (typically bare copper cable) and land that on the housing of your fixture. The video explains this. Also you need to make sure you know what your buying because other tubes have power and neutral connected to only one end of the tubes. This video is not for those types of tubes.
Seems simple enough. I'll cut the wires, remove the ballast, leave the tombstone sockets connected as is, then connect these wires to these wires or whatever, put in the led tube and turn it on. Wish me luck.
Same concerns I have that you did not show black,white and yellow with green wires connected to supply lines come from ceiling. That was most important part to watch. please redo it and publish it. Thank you.
Prices will come down, right now I think it's about a 2 year payoff, but that doesn't take into account reduced labor by not replacing them as often. My fluorescents only seem to last two years before they fail.
My perspective is to use the old FL until the ballast quits - which has been happening a lot in my office. Ballasts are expensive and a PITA to replace. Right now I have a 80% - 20% ratio of FL to LED installed, but that will obiously change over time. Did anyone mention the annoying buzz from the ballast that goes away :) ?
the biggest mistake most of these videos make is the maker of the video is familiar with all procedures-hence omit some very important items in the lesson-everything is easy ONCE you know it-therefore-the videos have to be very SPECIFIC -step by step procedures-you may notice all the complaints how this was NOT done here-and you are not alone-
So, you rewire such that one end of the tube connects to the connector that is wired to hot and the other end is connected to the connector that is wired to the neutral?
In a residential application, LED tubes don't make a whole lot of sense. They are much more expensive than fluorescents, don't seem to last much longer, and the slight increase in efficiency won't pay off the initial cost very quickly when the lights are used infrequently and in small numbers, as is common with residential installations. Even for most commercial uses, I think fluorescent is a better way to go. I'd even venture to say that it's better to keep T12 ballasts going until they die.
rewind the video he tells you where they go when he opened it up. one goes to the hot side and one goes to the other, it doesnt matter where they go cause its ac .Sorry its the Power source from the breaker box that feeds that fixture, copy that ladies and gentlemen
I don't completely disagree with you but the savings go beyond your home. No mercury or harmful gases used with LED lighting. In commercial application, the savings are greater than you may think. Not only savings in consumption but (here in AZ) reducing heat generation has an impact on how hard you have to run your AC to compensate. Another factor to consider, in the commercial world there is a cost associated with properly discarding old, used T12's or T8's.
LED tubes are a waste of time. Yes the wattage is lower but also the efficiency is the same as a T12 tube. Thus the light output will be significantly lower. Also the directional nature of the light LEDs produce makes it look brighter but it will cause it to be harsh. The reliability is also lower as the LED tube contains its own power supply which is exposed directly to the heat from the LEDs causing a significant reduction in the life of the power supply. If you want to upgrade your lighting, go for T8 tubes. The efficiency is greater than that of LEDs and in most cases they can just put in with no modifications. They will also last longer in most cases.
Eclipsis I wish I could tell you that you knew what you were talking about, but sadly you're completely wrong. An LED retrofit is easily able to be more energy efficient, depends on the brand. We replaced fluorescent T8 with LED and achieved a 50% efficiency increase. T12s are from the 1930s and they are the least efficient type of tubular fluorescent lamp. Around 60-70 lumens per watt when used with a magnetic ballast (lm/W) is standard for an old-style T12 lamp. A typical LED tube is around 100-125 lm/W, - almost twice that of the T12. Comparing LED tubes to T12's is not only moronic, but shows me just how much on an idiot you are if you truly believe they are of similar efficiency and reliability. A T8 tube with an electronic ballast is far more efficient, closer to 80-100 lm/W efficacy. In other words, a high-end T8 has about the same efficacy as a low-end LED tube. The major difference here is the LED has a rated life span of 40,000+ hours and 50k switch cycles. A high-end fluorescent is rated at 30,000 hours, but chances are the ballast - being the weakest link in the chain - will start playing up before then. If you leave the fluorescent on for as long as possible it's a better choice, but when you are switching them off daily, they won't last anywhere near the claimed life due to the failings of the ballast system. Your claim that LED reliability is lower is just hearsay bogus if you ask me. LED tubes dissipate their heat (which isn't much to begin with) over a large surface area. Yes, there are heat issues with some SMALL LED bulbs like GU10s, but they are very small packages with less surface area for heat to spread and dissipate, but not with 5 foot long tubes. LED tubes come in various types: See emcllc.com/top-nav/technology-blog1/t8-led-tubes-what-are-my-options/ for clarification. As you can see, there is no singular type of LED tube. Some locate the driver in the end cap, others work differently. Some types are more efficient and last longer than others. The type I'm using in my garage - which nets superior efficiency when compared with a fluorescent tube - is the type where you replace the ballast with an LED driver. In short, my retrofit tubes will last longer and survive drastically more switching cycles, run more efficiently, and the driver is mounted in such a location that it won't get hot. Your point that LEDs require modifications to put in, as evidenced by this video is true. However, I would consider this: LED technology is considered to be FAR from its theoretical efficacy limitations. Manufacturers believe the theoretical threshold is more than double the current efficiency of an LED. By performing the 'bypass surgery' on your tube fixtures, you're effectively 'future-proofing' the fixtures for decades. It's a small job re-wiring the fixture, but a couple years down the line when LED tubes are pushing in excess of 200 lm/W you will realise it was a smart decision to perform the bypass. Finally, other added benefits I enjoy from upgrading my garage to LED? Firstly, they switch on instantly. Secondly, there's no annoying hum. Third, they're more reliable. The old T8 tubes would occasionally go out and spend a few cycles attempting to 'restart'. Our garage now consumes 60w instead of 174w total, and the quality of light is superior. " Also the directional nature of the light LEDs produce makes it look brighter but it will cause it to be harsh. " --- Nope, can't say I noticed this.
Will Davis Yes LEDs may appear brighter but fluorescent tubes emit light equally throughout their walls. An efficiently designed reflector system would prove the higher efficiency. T8 and T5 lamps ARE more efficient than commercially available LEDs. Even some T12 lamps are, outside the labs. Yes higher efficiency LEDs are very close to being sold but we arn't quite there yet. Lets not forget there are more efficient sources of lighting such as the high pressure sodium lamp, the ceramic metal halide lamp. There is no LED on the shelves achieving over 100lm/w and most are no more than 60lm/w. This is less than the 115lm/w produced by the ceramic metal halide lamp, the 150lm/w produced by the high pressure sodium lamp and the 200lm/w produced by the low pressure sodium lamp. Furthermore the drivers used in LED lighting are suffering from alarming numbers of premature failures. This is caused by dry joints, cheap poor quality components, especially the electrolytic capacitors. This is why LED lighting is not the best thing since sliced bread.
I have the same issue but I think all you have to do is connect the 2 ends directly to the electricity... so you have to "skip/break" the starter area.
It's not about learning fast.. it's the inability of "bobbyjean" to go read an article that any gradeschooler could comprehend about which wires to twist together. The reason why there is no step-by-step guide that applies to all lights/fixtures is because there can be significant differences in the way they are wired, and there can't be a one-size-fits all solution to that. Gender has nothing to do with it.
With compatible led tube, you can save at least 5 minutes if replace fluorescent tube, because it just need to take away TL and plug in compatible led tube. That's it
