Balsa USA Stingray with DLE-20, RC Plane Build N0 3: Wing Dihedral and Joining the Wing Panels

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Welcome to my build series of the Balsa USA Stingray RC plane kit. The Stingray 120 is a great trainer and sport rc plane with an 83-inch wingspan and powered by a DLE-20 RC gas rc plane engine. I will be using a Futaba transmitter system with with Futaba servos and receiver. This plane is designed for .80 to .90 2-stroke glow engines, .90 to 1.20 4-stroke glow engines, and 15cc to 30cc gas engines.
In this video I join the left and right wing panels into the single wing and set the wing dihedral. I show how to cut the correct angle on the spars, leading edge and trailing edge for a proper joint. The wings are set together using plywood bracing and 30 minute epoxy.
All of these videos will be placed on a playlist.
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes (RC Planes) for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community, so I started RC Plane Tech channel for fun. I am not an expert, there are many different techniques when building radio control planes. A good way to learn about flying and building rc planes is to see what others are doing, that's what I do and that's why I like to share what I do.
Thanks for watching my channel. Hopefully you will find my videos a little interesting and perhaps fun to watch.

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Опубликовано:

14 окт 2023

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Комментарии : 24

@joepellissier2091 8 месяцев назад

Well done. I agree with the way you cut the dihedral. Love the way you used the 123 blocks. I’m stealing that idea.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 8 месяцев назад

Thanks! 123 blocks are a god send to this hobby

@davidfogle1220 8 месяцев назад

I haven’t built an RC plane in 40 years, but remember the thrill. Thanks for making these videos so I can build vicariously through you. Your explanation about why it’s better to cut the wings spars, etc, of both wing halves to form the dihedral is convincing. However, when you get to the step of shaving off the teeny amounts of wood that make it work (you did mention repeatedly that you were exaggerating the amount in your sketches for clarity), I realized that the kit solution of trimming just one wing might be worth considering. The bottom edges of the bottom spars are the same length, so the “rotation" happens from that pivot point, and that makes the wings the same length. The offset you're concerned about is actually on the top, very small, and hidden inside the fuselage. The “one wing” method does admittedly introduce a tiny imperfection in principle, but given its very small magnitude when compared to all the other real world imperfections that occur in a build, it might easily be negligible. What do you think?

@JamesRCPlaneTech 8 месяцев назад

I agree, it seemed almost irrelevant once I started cutting. other than the principle behind it, it probably didn’t matter much. Also, I guess it depends on where you reference it, but I do believe either the top or bottom spar joint at the dihedral will not be along the centerline of the fuselage? But again, I agree with you that in practice it probably didn’t matter much after I was finished with it, other than it suited my personal preference I guess. Thanks for the comment!

@alfredvink 4 месяца назад

In theory there’s another issue when raising only one tip. Raising the tip on one side to twice the height doesn’t give you twice the angle! True it doesn’t matter at these angles of dihedral, but still ;-) So yes, I preferably prop up both tips.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 4 месяца назад

Ya, i like raising both as well. Seems more thorough

@Didi-dd7xt Месяц назад

Nice video, easy to follow. Could you do the wing with wing tubes and how to do the alignment

@JamesRCPlaneTech 27 дней назад

Im sure you could. I have never used them. Something to consider in future builds

@JamesRCPlaneTech 27 дней назад

Thanks

@duainrothman7930 8 месяцев назад

Hello, I have a little tip for ya 🧐 when gluing plywood its better to sand it with like 120 just a enough to give it a tooth to bond to as fresh plywood is smooth, don't go heavy just a couple swipe to break the smooth surface. Also when mixing epoxy for like center rapping with fiberglass better to use a flat plastic container top cause it'll give you good woking time to spreads the epoxy and get the glass down just right as it's heating up as it is chemically bonding you dont want it in a container it'll set up (harden) faster in a container and less working time. Hope this is helpful to all. Nice build project, also if your ever interested in scratch building I've got BUSA Excalibur set of plans (free), im not going to get to this life time😊

@duainrothman7930 8 месяцев назад

Oops bad spelling It should have read WRAPPING not rapping like in music 😂😂😂

@JamesRCPlaneTech 8 месяцев назад

Hi, thanks for the tips! Those are useful, I appreciate it not just for me but everyone else who is hopefully checking out the comments. I appreciate your plan offer, if you get a chance email me at RCplanetech@gmail.com to chat. Thanks a lot! Also you may be able to sell it on ebay or other, if you consider that as well.

@anthony3D 5 месяцев назад

Bonjour je pense que le papier sulfurisé ( cuisson au four ) ne serait pas resté collé a l'époxy. Mais j en suis pas sûr, faudrait que je fasse des essais. Merci pour votre vidéo instructive 😊👍

@JamesRCPlaneTech 5 месяцев назад

You are correct, parchment paper works well and wax paper also. Thanks

@johnhaynie-ws6qy 7 месяцев назад

Great job with taking your time and explaining. One question where did you buy your table top with the grid lines?

@JamesRCPlaneTech 7 месяцев назад

These are OLFA cutting mats for arts and crafts. They come in many sizes. They sell a set that comes with 3 large pads (A,B,C) that you clip together if you want one that big. I trimmed to fit my table. OLFA is a name brand but there are also others. They are self healing when cut. They are not cheap, but very useful to protect your table and also provide quick measurements. Here is an example: www.joann.com/olfa-gridded-cutting-mat-set-35inx70in-with-clips/3295219.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAx_GqBhBQEiwAlDNAZhJFHDPjf-ZAGsjoa7y0I_LZL1FGJk7zDl_nT7mdt3Y6NSqGGI1BsRoCDRoQAvD_BwE

@oliverinfw 8 месяцев назад

I agree that the gaps between the spars and the ribs are too large and reduces the strength of the joint. In this case I would add balsa spar caps the length of the wing. Would add strength back into the wing.

@oliverinfw 8 месяцев назад

Suggestion...why not move the steel blocks to the end of the spars and use them as your cutting guide? Would give you a nice straight cut line.

@JamesRCPlaneTech 8 месяцев назад

Thats a possibility, I guess if you could clamp them in place. Thats something to think about. Thanks for the comment.