Bambu Studio Tutorial Line Width 

You're so welcome! Once I started I saw a bunch of options open up. Smaller line width for detail mixed with larger line width for strength for instance.

Everyone's comments and questions are making for great topics to cover. Thank you very much especially for understanding the delay in getting this out.

There were a few surprises while making this, speed, strength, quality. Thank you very much for watching and commenting.

Excellent. Thank you for watching and commenting.

Great tip! I'm sitting here next to clear filament and never ran it with a higher linewidth so that is an excellent use case. I need to experiment with speed and temp too. If you find a good mix of settings would you mind sharing?

Hello! Thank you for watching and your kind words. 😀

That's a great idea of a write up. These types of videos can be data dense so I had to cut a lot it and still make the video flow.. For lack fo a better term Thank you. 😁

Thank you very much for watching and commenting. 😁

Thank you very much. I havent seen many others covering it and one of my subscribers asked about it. There will be more videos to come.

Thank you for your comment and question. YMMV with filament types and settings but the vase mode 1mm was a huge success. did perform a water leak test when I saw your question. The default had small (beading) leaks at the bottom layer, where the bottom meets the first 1 wall pass. It's possible to adjust the line width at certain heights. The 1mm test held water without issue , I only did a few hours test with it but I consider it a success. PLA may not hold up long term though so an epoxy should work great. I hope this information helps.

@@ashleys3dprintshop very helpful thanks

I appreciate it! I'll keep putting them out if people are interested.

Thank you. There are a ton of variables to look at. I had great success with the .3mm for the letters and you can set the line width for default for the rest of the model. As long as there is a good foundation of infill you can mix and match settings. So I have not tried .23-.29mm so there is a possibility to go smaller than .3mm and still have quality.

Printing "test parts" when switching filaments is a good idea and best practice. I think the printer is making me complacent (lazy)since I didnt tweak any settings but used the default print profiles for all of the models. Thank you very much for watching and commenting.

Glad it was helpful! So I planned a much longer video initially that would have delved into the different nozzles but it would have been a slog to watch. So I tried to keep the content condensed if possible. Especially using default nozzles.(.4mm) but if you are curious there is a 2.5x multiplier increase or rough .5x decrease .2mm nozzle line width .12mm - .5mm .4mm nozzle (sweet spot was .3 line width) line width .22mm - 1mm .6mm line width .32mm - 1.5mm .8mm nozzle line width .41mm - 2mm So even though the .4 nozzle theoretically got down to the .2mm nozzle layer height its quality isn't the same.

@@ashleys3dprintshop I understand why you had to cut the video down, but that's honestly very Interesting, thank you for the additional info!

@@ansiaaa Thank you for understanding. Perhaps I can revisit this if enough folks are interested.

I am going to copy a comment I posted earlier. "So I planned a much longer video initially that would have delved into the different nozzles but it would have been a slog to watch. So I tried to keep the content condensed if possible. Especially using default nozzles.(.4mm) but if you are curious there is a 2.5x multiplier increase or rough .5x decrease .2mm nozzle line width .12mm - .5mm .4mm nozzle (minimum sweet spot was .3 line width) line width .22mm - 1mm .6mm line width .32mm - 1.5mm .8mm nozzle line width .41mm - 2mm So even though the .4 nozzle theoretically got down to the .2mm nozzle default layer height its quality isn't the same." Not accounting for filament types it seemed like 75% of the default min. I did not go too deep in *layer heights and line width* because it would be a very very long video with many variables.

I haven't officially gone over it but you can use a modifier. There are 2 main types of modifiers. Height range or objects. For simplicity I recommend making a part modifier. at 4:50 if you look to the left I used a height range modifier to make adjustments just in that area. The parts there all have a semi solid infill at the bottom but the top half is different. You can change, walls, infill, infill density, layer height, speed, line width and a bunch of other options in just the area that is selected by the modifier. Here is a quick video about what I mean. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aXW4v-8iO3Q.html

Thank you so much for such a comprehensive and clear response. Absolute legend. (Same person as OP btw just on my music account) This channel is an instant sub for me 💪

Hello, thank you for the question. I can give a partial answer based on how I printed but this may be better suited for someone with a higher pay grade than me. (bambu lab engineer) But during these tests I printed stock with an exception of the silk vases I slowed down a bit to get a glossy sheen. (50mm/s) all temps were stock 220C. So when I printed those models, with varying characteristics, they were printed at the same time. So we have printing, retraction moves all throughout the print jobs. Presumably any pressure issues would have cropped up then. They did look roughly like the sliced models. The single prints came out fine as well. The vase is a single 1mm extrusion, through a .4mm nozzle, stream for over 1.5 hours and no print quality issues from what I found. There could be some things I didn't take into account though. 1. I used the AMS with these prints and they run through the filament buffer before going to the extruder. The buffer may "smooth out" tension alongside the AMS. There is 10 sensors in the filament path, so the position, speed, and tension of the filament are monitored and controlled 2. There were no extruder skipping or under extrusions 3. There was no stringing/over extrusions so pressure issues never cropped up. 4. I did not tweak settings and this was sunlu filament, but I did run an auto filament calibration for the X1C. 5. I have not run 24hr prints or anything with the higher line width yet. All stock speeds except for the vase. Obviously printing lower or higher width extrusions, outside of the default, will produce desirable or less desirable results. (.3mm was surprisingly good) If I revisit this topic I may dip into other nozzles and use the back spool holder. As far as long term use that is the million dollar question. 😁 I venture to guess default settings are the best for longevity but I only have 4300hr over 19 months printed and less than 100hrs using larger line width. I am still on my original hardened extruder, but I have swapped out nozzles before but none due to failure. I hope that answer helps.

Hmm, I wasn't even thinking about lithophanes but now you have me curious. 🧐 Theoretically this should work fine, smaller lines, mixed with infill and layer height...

I am leaning that why when looking at the prints. The *infill test*was certainly stronger as we went higher in line width and faster print too as it didnt have as many small "stops/starts/retractions/extrusions" while laying down similar amounts of filament. The *walls test* was similar in strength with an completely unscientific, hand crush test. Now these were mostly default settings so changing infill % or # of walls can affect the speed/strength.

Thank you for the question. There are some minor steps to add the nozzle to your printer in Bambu studio. 1. Open Bambu studio and go to the "Prepare" tab 2. Right below "Prepare" you will see "Printer" and to the right of that is a *Gear Icon*. Press the gear. 3. Find your printer and check off the .6mm nozzle and *confirm* You can add all of the nozzles too so you don't have to do it later. .2, .6 and .8mm From there you can select the other nozzle when slicing. Below the Printer icon. There is a down angle icon. If you have any other questions I an frequently in the comments.

thank you@@ashleys3dprintshop

Yes and yes . So vase/containers are tricky, as you well know. The 1mm vase in this example does hold water. The weakest point seems to be the bottom layer transition to the rest of the higher layers though. That print was a silk PLA and i dont know how long it will hold up so perhaps a resin coat would seal it better. I would have to revisit vase prints, speeds, filament and line width for a better answer.

@@ashleys3dprintshop ok thank you. I even made the bottom thicker, but still seems to leak. Maybe thickness of print, just cannot figure it out.

It certainly seems counter to the nozzle diameter, but I think it's a combination of the gears being tightly controlled and precise movement and retractions. It's not perfect though,. The 0.22 line width has a bunch of errors when you look at the infill section. But the.3 on a 0.4 nozzle was fine

yeah, the flow rate is less than the speed, so the extrusion stretches thinner, just like un-aerated water falling from a faucet that gets skinnier a bit as it speeds up.

Glad you liked it! So much to cover. Lol Thank you.