Yes, I wonder what the real world performance of such a tri-ported enclosure would be. The other bandpass designs can be peaky or smooth depending on the specific size of the chamber vs the port area. Frequency cancelation is typically a bigger problem on 4th orders, but i have no idea. Why not do 2 drivers with 4 port sizes? Would that still be a 6th order?
Another great video, but was wondering if you could explain the winisd portion of the build, specifically the plot wave peaks and how to adjust the parameters of the box in winisd. Thanks so much again for the very informative videos
I've made a 6th order bandpass box 20 years ago and I did not calculate anything, so it sounded very bad ,I had to make it into a 4th order , that worked a bit better
@@225maine We fucked up a box with a friend. It had barely any sound with a 1200w sub. It was kinda surreal how stupidly little sound came out of it. Driver size doesn't mean shit
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 of course only the driver alone doesn't matter, everything has to work and be balanced...but even with a perfectly built box,certain driver won't work with it no matter what.
Love your channel! I'm ballin on a budget and this really helps! How do you calculate internal box volume and how do you go about tuning your ports in these?
I love ur videos very informative thanks for taking the time to make them by any chance u related to Steve Harvey i swear you sound just like him (✌🏼💪🏼🔈💪🏼🔉💪🏼🔊)
My 6th order bandpass 12in subwoofer box that I had in an extended cab S10 was the best setup I ever had. It was a down fire setup with a ported 1.2 cubic foot box that had a tuned 3in diameter PVC port, box was filled with poly fiber fill pillow stuffing, with the face of the subwoofer pointing downward and also in a somewhat ported enclosure. I had one Alpine Type S subwoofer on 500 to 600watts, two 6 1/2, two 3 and 3/4, and two 1 and 1/2 inch tweeters that would out beat just about any other system that I had heard at the time in person. Loved it. Traded the truck with the box in it not thinking about it till after the fact.
i took a decent after market 6x9 and i put it in a 4th order box . it was hooked up to my home theater stereo receiver which was hoooked to my laptop. it bumped for sure. made a nice difference ... i could hear really low bass
What you didn't talk about in this video are the tuning frequencies. 6th order bandpass boxes can be tuned to fill certain octaves in the frequency spectrum. You can tune a 6th order to cover only half an octave or a full octave or however many you want. Bose uses the 6th order bandpass for their Acoustimass 5 series 2 bass module. In fact, Bose patented the 6th order bandpass design and are the only ones who make them and market them for home audio. Next time you should go more in depth.
If you are looking for SPL, then a simple ported box will do you great. Remember, bandpass builds are more for broadening the frequency response, whereas, SPL typically focuses around one particular frequency.
I'm not a computer savy dude but I'm building a 6th order and I'm using a DC level 4 18" sub I'm making the box huge so I can tune it later could you please help me on what the chamber sizes should be please sir my box dimensions are 2'/2''/4' I listen to rap and slot of Rock love that kick drum
What if ur using ur trunk for a box with ur sub firing inverted into a ported box that's ported directly into the rear deck plate into my car but the port is fired against my back window in my 98 Merc and it's only 1 12"K9 Rockville and it's supposed to be rated at 1000 rms I got a 1200.1 rolling on it with my gains properly so it's getting down betcha lol and it's clean as hell I was experimenting with it because anytime ur working with a trunk ur trying to push that bass note throw ur trunk throw a seat but my way not the problem in getting everything and mine is in the truck it freaks ppl out how I made everything work cause all I really used was pvc pipe and a prefab box from Walmart fr fr it's still got me scratching my head to be honest how it's working fr lol
Do the chambers right in front or back of the speaker itself have any influence in tuning or only the ports from the chamber to the exit of the box have? thanks
These enclosures can get really technical and if u do not have the c feet and parameters for tuning (ports) correct according to the specs for the subwoofer, u can fu_ck some shit up. Basically if u are not experienced in building these type of enclosures, have some one who can do it or pay some one to, just saying.
So what's the relation between the interchamber port and the exterior port on a series 6th? All I can find is that each port affects the tuning of the other port but nothing specific and certainly no formula's on the subject. The best I've gotten so far is that the front port lowers the interchamber port or vise-versa, nothing solid or demonstrable.
was wondering if it would work good or not even, I've never seen it or heard of one yet. two 10" drivers in a duel chamber 6th order duel 15" PR in the center to handle lower fq and ported sides for mid / higher fq
You can actually leave the top detachable by using wood inserts in screws or what you could do is have a plexiglass window that's big enough for removing the driver and again use wood inserts and screws to remove the plexiglass
Fs = Free air resonance, the frequency it plays easiest due to the design/mass/suspension, and part of the reason big subs do lower lows is mass, more mass (and bigger air columns) resonate lower. And bigger surface areas displaces more air which has more impact (chest kick). It's doubtful you'd get much chest kick off a pair of 8"s. Not saying you wouldn't get any, but it won't feel like it is suffocating you. (edited typos)
My systems never had enough power .How did I not know dam some incredible speakers and boxes I would build back in the day wired to a crappy amp tisc tisc maybe time to go back and relive my youth a little and finally get it right .
@Jacob Person Sounds cool ,my biggest mistake back in the day was Rollin through my hood boomin everyone knew where the car with the boom was parked at night had 2. punch 12s and a 600watt redline amp running mono in series it boomed just not like it should have ,scumbags broke out my back window snatched my subs and amp had a new Sony CD player they couldn't get it out so they stuck a screwdriver in it and jacked up along with all my CDs ,so yah that kinda slowed me down threw me off the boom game game for a good minute .Now my house booms and my neighbors hate me lol.Good luck with system sounds like a real knocker ✌️
Hola , me gustaría saber qué medida puedo usar para fabricar un cajón 6to orden tengo dos Pionner ts-300D4 quisiera montarlo en un honda crv 2002 , tengo un espacio disponible de 14x13x41-1/2 de pulgada , crees que podría funcionar ??
The 8th is the loudest desogn all czn be manipulated but too much gain and group delay starts to sound bad. Its a balancing act. And the filtering hides driver distress so be careful.
I'm into car audio for 25+ years.That being said, I would like more information on how to the proper air space for a given driver. is Consulting the manufacturer the only way. I ask because an associates ask me about build a box for two 15 Memphis Audio Mojo. The thing is they are custom I came to this fact due to wiring them in parallel they came to a dual one ohm load.He informed me that he got them from a friend and they only made six of these. any information on finding the airspace of a unspecified driver (Subwoofer) or a way of finding it would be helpful. I thank you in advance. N.T.Z. Claw
if Port tuning is what you're looking for then there are plenty of Port tuning calculator on the internet that will give you an estimated volume for your internal space. However, without having the t s parameters it will be hard to properly build an enclosure for SQ or SPL purposes without a whole lot of trial-and-error.
I am sorry but I have to ask, you say that "you are into car audio for 25+ years and you don't know about TS parameters? That is literally the first thing you need to know when determining an enclosure, not by how it looks, I have also been building enclosures for 25+ years, alot of screw turning, cuts, blood, cutting with an oldschool handset, siliconing mistakes etc... if a customer would say, "I want a whatever order box" I would ask, "what kind of music do you listen to? What kind of mids am I working with? Sometimes the person would have kick ass mids and only needed a box that complimented the low end, not a monstrous sub lurking in their trunk. Yes there are some subs that are awesome ..... if your only concern is spl, then that is easy, but if you actually want great sounding efficient sound vs "what it is going to look like in your trunk, or how cool it will be to tell your friends, "I designed this box vs that box" if you have the right ts parameters, you never know, it might just be that a simple sealed box handles the job quite well
@@gen-x_dude thank you for your input, I am not a professional installer I am a enthusiastic. The speaker's I was referring to was a pair of custom two of sixMojo 15s that my cousin got from a friend. Buying them used there are no specs to go along with them. Naff's audio (home of the Coca-Cola Thunder Truck) Natchez Mississippi say they are 1/2 ohm stable per coil. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance😊
hello, wanted to ask for your opinion as it will be my first build ever. Had a spare klipsch k27k woofer with BIC subwoofer amp plate rated at 240 watt rms lying around so thought of giving it a build. i could not find any parameters for this woofer. if you dont have any parameters how to design a ported box? thanks
In your case, simply focus on the running of the box. There are free tools to do this. Just Google "port length calculator" and that should get you going. Good luck🤟
So could I put any kind of sub in a bandpass enclosure? I have a Hertz HX300 woofer but in the specsheat the only recommended enclosures are ported and sealed. But since a bandpass is basically both ported and sealed could I just put that sub into a bandpass enclosure? Or would that just sound crappy or possibly damage the sub?
48884BB it sounds like you 're referring to a 4th order. In that case, there is both sealed and ported sections. The sub you mentioned has the ability to move a decent amount of air. I'd say go for it. It would be right at hone in a 6th order.
I enjoy your content have a few questions about how to place for p3s and a bandpass box . 1how would the setup look, 2 what would it like it like .3 how to tune it to play Lowe's.4 how thick would I be able to make the walls or baffles.5 the size of the drivers..... I have four p3s 12 in I also have two Sundown v3 10 ..... interested in a bandpass what are your suggestion
Imagine the enclosure cut in half lengthwise thru the baffle. What you have left helps you see what order you have. One sealed, one ported= 4th order. Two ported=6th order. From there it’s down to specific pathways of airflow and whether they work together or produce Outputs of their own.
the 8th order bandpass would have extreamly bad sql there is litrally no point in this enclosure. from my experiance 4th orders and 6th orders are the best but my favoret are 4th orders and trap horns for pa which is essentially the same thing
I would suggest you take a look at some of Bose enclosures. They've literally made a fortune from 8th orders. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Thanks for the comment.
What are your thoughts on a dual chamber 4th order but instead of the port being in the chamber that is shared the it would be a separate ported enclosure for the basket side of each sub but then the face of the subs share one sealed chamber? I having figured out the port tuning yet but chamber size would be 1-1 so all 3 will be the same volume
I think that it really depends on where you're going to use it, the amount of space that you have to fit it and if it's going to be inside a room, inside a car or outside your house.
For the dual chambered 6th order how would you be able to measure for all three ports? Would you do two separate designs one for the large port and the other for the two smaller ports? Or is there an option in win isd to do create a triple chamber band pass enclosure
@@BudgetBassHead Thanks for the quick reply on that. I can't seem to find consistent information on just what they might still have patented. Do you know? The patent extract for 6th orders from them that I've seen is dated 1988, which would have now expired, but I see references in forums that say they still have patents and others that say their patents have expired. The last thing I want to do is wind up in a legal fight with Bose. And yes, I'm designing a salable product.
@@408SPLKINGS Thanks. In the we used a 4th order design, which performs great for the application and doesn't come with the potential patent issues. Here's a link if you want to check it out: www.stonefieldmusic.com/collections/amplifier-cabinets/products/10-inch-mid-size-amp-cabinet
The energy from the band pass that is ported in a series would for example... the rear energy given off of the subwoofer would go into the front energy of the subwoofer and since they are of polar waves wooden that cancel each other out.
When I came along to learn audio, I felt the bandpass box was cheating spl and not true audiophiles box- due to steep drop offs with frequency- can you elaborate??
Regardless of the application, quality sound is, just that; quality sound. Excluding a particular type of enclosure, would be like excluding a certain family of instruments. Could you imaging a band playing with only horned instruments? but when you mix the drums, pipes, strings etc.. you get an optimal result. sort of like mixing sealed with ported enclosures. Or higher frequencies with lower frequency ports.
@@BudgetBassHead Not really. Bandpass boxes is like this, trading a little bit of SQL for SPL. If you want tight bass and you also want it to go loud, then go for horn sub. You wouldn't be disappointed, I assure you.
That a pro sub isn't it? To be honest, any subwoofer could go in a bandpass. If it optimal sealed, build a 4th order. If its optimal ported, build a 6th order.
I'm getting ready to redo my double hot box that was damaged during a wreck two years ago. My friend made it off the actual specifications of the double hot box. I can't find ANYTHING on hot boxes on the net...
QUESTION i have built tons of enclosures,but no bandpasses I've been wanting to but heres the deal,my computer is a mac mini out dated,its a mac O S X 10.7.5 so you might say well update it,i tried to el capitan and it went so slow i couldn't do anything,i googled and several people are saying the same thing,so i have zero patience and went back to original mac o s x,so i CAN NOT download box calculators,my QUESTION is how else can i get plans for a build.i want to try two SA 8 v3 d4's in a either single reflex or a dual 4th any tips dude ? thanks