If I might add to the reasons for the (wobble) of the .050 is in the math. The .050 bar is also marked in the metric actual gauge size which is 1.3mm divided by 25.4 = .0512”. The .063 gauge bar is marked as the actual metric gauge of 1.6mm divided by 25.4 = .0629”. No Wobble room on the.063.
Very logical math there but the chain is also the same size or should be to the bar. If this was the case they would be the same size regardless. I have found the 58 gauge chain to be just as tight as the 63 gauge when all new, never seen 50 gauge 3/8 here is Australia. We only use 50 gauge in 3/8 low profile.
Damn the Europeans, ...and their metric system! (just kidding) We should have converted in the 60's when there was a push for it, and we had the chance to do so. Metric system is so much easier to deal with. Correct, it IS totally a function of clearance between the thickness of the drive link, and the width of the bar slot. There needs to be some amount of clearance for the bar oil to form a film between the two. I think the most beneficial things that can be done for a used bar, is to do as Richard has shown, which is to make sure that both rails of the bar are at the same height and burr-free by using a bar dresser tool, and flip the orientation of the bar mounted to the saw on a fairly regular basis. Eventually, after much use, the bar groove will wear out so much that it will need to be replaced, and no amount of dressing will really help very much.
One of the added benefits of running a wider gauge bar is it also carries more oil down the bar/chain = less wear on said bar and chain. Down side is the added drag the wider the gauge you go, ran .058 gauge for many year's because of the added lube thing and better stability but started running some .050 the last few year's for another reason. Being the cheap ass I am when the .050 get's worn beyond tolerance I throw a .058 chain on and presto like a new bar again, that is if your bar nose is in good shape. keeping a bar dressed is something you need to stay on top of letting it get worn in like a dragline ditch creates other saw problem's that'll cost you, anyways another informative video for those not in the know; take care.
Excellent tutorial! Lol, Pferd means horse in German. I have heard that Husqvarna would use the 1.5mm .058 gauge because Stihl did not make that gauge chain at the time and therefore customers would come back to them to buy new chains. A bar dresser is on my list. 👍
Excellent video! I gotta be honest, I didn’t know that particular bar dresser existed and I do believe that is a very value guide to have. I cannot file at perfect 90 degrees. Now, I have seen on another channel a device that would close the rails back up. From my understanding, with use, the rails can slightly flair out and can be worked back vertical to tighten the grove back up. Saw it on Buckin Billy Ray some time ago. Thanks again Richard!
@@jasonmcclure9335unfortunately it’s also a LOT pricier than the handheld tool, as much as 100%. It’s been some time since I priced out the grinder from Bailey’s though. It’s only because their website is excruciatingly slow 🤨😠😡🤬
Gotta hand it to you, just found your channel and have learned a ton of good info. I cut and sell firewood plus got a part time job at a tree service 6 months ago and lots of your knowledge I’ve never heard before. New subscriber here!
Always an interesting chainsaw topic Richard. I too run .050 gauge on most of my saws with yellow straps😉. The only .063 I run is on the .325 chain and it cuts great. I was actually surprised how well it cuts. I've heard of guys disliking the .063 bars for weight gain lol. I can't tell a advantage or disadvantage. So here's what I suggest, make em sharp and keep em sharp lol and get out and cut some timber fellas
I switched from .050 to .063 nearly 20 years ago, because I was having trouble cutting straight. All problems went away with the swap. I think my drive spockets and tips (the same as .050) last longer also.
Here in Eastern Washington i have both. I do keep my bars in great shape though! Funny in myold age i really seem to take care of my stuff compared to my younger days! Thanks for sharing!
I just watched an interesting video that might pertain to this one . Stihl .050 drive links are .063 within the chain. They only step down to .050 were they enter the bar. Oregon drive links are .058 within the chain stepped down to .050 . The side links were .050 on both. There might be some contact from the steps on the drive links .
I've tried them all and I like 3/8 x .050 exj. I could be wrong, but the teeth get wider as you go up in size, like .058 and up. The wider the groove of cut, the more power it robs.
I’m not sure if this is a contributing factor or not. But, one thing I’ve noticed on 0.050” chains is that most have drivers that are 0.063” up top at the tie links. The part of the driver sitting inside the bar is ground to a smaller gauge to fit the bar groove.
I am glad someone has taken on this perplexing question!! I explain the gauge, driver, pitch thing daily to people buying chains and bars from. First thing that comes out of my mouth is " what saw do you have and what does the sprocket have stamped on it"?
It really can be a headbuster if you're not in the business. Can't believe how bars and chains were never made with more commonality, or better yet, universal. The manufacturers are still coming out with new products.
Thank you Richard another excellent video. I'm from down here in Savannah and everyone runs .050, I would never have known the difference in the stability of the chain. I wonder if Tim runs any .063...thank you for helping all of us :)
From my own experience the bar wear only matters if it's not dressed square. Careful attention to consistent sharpening to make sure cutting edges are even and same angle. A poorly sharpened chain will wreck a new bar. I also use proper sticky bar oil and have upgraded my oil pumps to bigger volume for long bars I sometimes use. Oil is cheap and dry chains kill power. Run MS 361 x 2 and a MS 650. Run 25, 30 and 36" bars on big saw , 18, 20 and 22" on 361's. I leave home with fresh bar and chain cable tied together ready for fast swap out if I damage a chain. I cut firewood so a lot of big ring cuts. Full Chisel is my go-to choice. Less effort. I have only ever run 063 chain down here in NZ.
It is odd that the higher number driver gauge is larger (thicker). That is opposite of how "gauge" works in most applicatons. Take wire sizes for example; 2 gauge is WAY WAY WAY larger than 14 gauge. Another is shot gun shell gauges. The 28 gauge is quite smal, the 10 gauge is a big bruiser. SHeet metal the same scheme.
I think .058 1.5mm is a better fit than .050. In the UK you will only find Stihl in 3/8 .063 and Husqvarna 3/8 .058. However, in .325 all chain manufacturers offer a .050 and .058 option.
9:55 Stihl also sells a grader and maybe, just, maybe it will be a little bit cheaper (part number 56057734400 and 56057734200 for the replacement file)
A lot of great info. I file the sides also and leave a slight bevel. Can a bigger chain be put on a 3/8 p? I would worry about the power. Thanks and take care.
@@richardflagg3084 I bought mine about ten years ago when Madsens had a sale on their own Made in USA bar rail closer. I never saw it in their catalog after that. They may still carry them; just not in their catalog. The only ones I see on line are from Wuflu land. Not sure about the ones on fleabay made of stainless. Guessing they're from Wuflu land also.
@@obxkoastie8170 Next time I talk to Gordy at Westcoast saw I'll mention it. He's got a great fabricator. We need more made in the USA products that are built to last.
I'll try the online stainless and see how they go. Now Mr. Flagg great job on convincing Tim to go ported, we know you are one of a few gems out there with impeccable reputation. ❤️❤️❤️ Maybe if you want to do a step by step video on how to convert a stihl 1/4 pitch bar to fit the 2511. How to properly drill the tensioner holes to lign up.🤗🤗🤗
I went to the paul bunyan show this year. I bought 7 chains at less than $20 each and bar for $125 for .050. I'm not a feller all firewood. Here in southern il there is no other option in chains for a stihl .063 bc the oregon exl will cost you only a couple bucks less than stihl at about $45. So I paid less for chains and a bar to switch to .050 than chains would cost me stay in .063. Do you think thats a wise choice. So I do plan to get a 32" or 36" for some of the bigger wood I get in just to make it easier. I would like to make my own chain tho
Making your own chain is a great way to save money once the initial investment is done. A 25" loop of exl is about $18ish to make yourself. That's based on a $350 roll. Westcoast saw has great pricing on Oregon chain. Run whatever bar you like.
Ive only got one .063 bar and i really don't like it. Simply because as you stated, no local dealer stocks .063 chain! If it were readily available without having to order online, my opinion of it may be different.
I believe you have a .325 pitch chain. Stihl has always made .325, .063 bar and chain combo for their 50ish cc saws, until recently. They have gone to .325, .050 in the last year for some reason. Why, I have no idea.
Yes, but I haven't used Stihl bar oil in a while. I always used the orange bottle bar oil. It just got too expensive and tried some other oils til I found the best bang for the buck, so to speak.
Stihl Bio Plus bar oil is now available in the states, at least where I am. $32 a gallon with quart containers priced at $10! I have tried it. Pours rather well in cold weather and smells like you are cooking something while cutting.
One question to be addressed is curf size and additional power needed to pull a larger gauge through the cut. On top handle saws, I see many tree service people that climb, going to .25 gauge to gain advantage of light wieght saws moving faster and easier through the cut. How does this square with the gains made with larger gauge chain benefiting chain thightness in the bar? Does a larger chain pull harder in the cut? Personally, I have found, with properly sharpened chain and a descently maintained bar, I have not experienced problems with a wandering cut. My experince goes back to the gear drive days in the late 1950's and with very little exception, a properly sharpened chain and a descently maintained bar, even both being well worn, solves most cut wandering issues. A little experience based english applied by the saw operator can also help with maintaining a good true cut. Nick, North West Farmer (Oregon)
Smaller chains on the smaller saws is back in fashion. It does cut very nice in the smaller cc saws. Less drag/ more RPM. I worked on a Stihl 015 last year and it had 1/4 pitch chain from the factory. They were made back in the 70's and early 80's.
Geez, prepare your comments before you record. You're all over the place. I'm sure you know what you're talking about, but you sure don't know how to present.
