Sorted the leak, I put a washer on the screw of the retaining plate to spread the load, in turn seating and holding the tube in place, once again thanks for your video
The exact same thing happened to me as well with a Chinese saw, I used some heat proof silicone and it sealed the leak right away. Great job my friend…
I recently built the same saw, Huztl 372, and it has the same leak. During assembly the spot you identify seemed questionable to me as well. Looks like I'll be opening it up to do the same fix. Thanks for the insight and video!
Thanks ... never saw one on the pickup to the oil supply ... very complete for the entire oil system ... Have a 61 which has a oil leak .. will give it a try
Great video, well done. I kind of have a different issue though. My saw seems to have a very low output, evern when cranked open to full setting. Armed with information gleaned from watching this video I feel comfortable tearing into my saw to check the inlet filter to see if it is partially plugged. If not then I’ll probably end up replacing the pump and using your sealing tips, will get it reassembled properly. Keep putting out quality videos. Subscribed
Thanks Not only check the filter but also check the rubber hose in the tank, the metal tube from the pump and also the pump inlet and outlet for restrictions. Make sure the worm drive gear and the pump gear are in good shape. The tank vent could be plugged but unlikely, this is a one way valve it let's air into the oil tank and prevents escape from the tank of air and oil, so the oil tank should hold pressure but not a vacuum.
@@craigtimmons3468 Friend, is Meteor piston good for 372 xp saw compared to OEM Mahle? I mean power. Apparently the cylinders are worse? Is it possible to install 1 ring in a pile 372 xp with a new piston as before there were 2 rings ...
@@Sensei948 I'll start here, Yes you can install a 1 ring piston into this saw and it will run fine but the service life (expectancy) may not be as long as a 2 ring version. The difference is less friction for the 1 ringer which makes it more desirable for a performance saw. The Meteor piston is an ok replacement especially if your doing any mods (hop up work) to the saw but as it weighs less than the OEM, BUT I personally prefer the OEM Mahle piston in my work built saws (better durability). And yes there has been some documented issues with the Meteor Jugs, Although I have not used one in the last year or so.
My 435 has dumped it's chain oil from new, I thought it's just the nature of the beast and I should store it with an empty tank,definitely gonna tear it apart now, I have forceps too, great video thank you
Your Welcome, Another spot that can leak oil although not as common is the oil tank vent, an easy was to check it is to pressure test (should not leak down) or fill it full of oil and leave it set a few days or a week with out the bar and chain on it to see if there is oil leaking through the vent.
I would have just bought a new oiler line. Havein to take saw all apart I wouldn't want to chance it leaking again. I see you really like the 515. Try new lines by Husky they work wonders.
that was a wonderful show & tell !!! my saw occasionally leaks gasoline when rotated 90 degrees (vertical to horizontal cuts) what could it be?? and lastly air filter sucks in chips into the engine - there are always chips wedged deep in between filter and carburetor elbow connection. please check yours and comment
Thanks For the tip on the chips I'll check mine and if I find anything I'll do a video. On this i would check to make sure that the filter base is making a good proper seal to the carb air horn and any other places that wood chips/dust could be getting by also check the filter element closely. On the the leaking gas check the tank vent and /or vent hose for leak and proper fitment also check the fuel pump side of the carb to make sure the gas isn't coming from there if it is then the pump diaphragm will need to be replaced. Maybe the tank itself is leaking.
The replacement of the bulb is stright forward, now if you are wanting to also do the fuel lines this video should be of help as it will explain how to hook the lines up to the carb and purge bulb. One CORRECTION to the video is on the purge bulb the short nipple is the intake and the long nipple is the outlet . Although this video is of Poulan based saws the basics are the same across most all saws with the style of carbs used in the video. Check out this link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8F5essNvtKI.html
It looks like a flawed design having that rubber tubing press into the oil tank then on the other side into that metal plate with the groove. The rubber bit would deteriorate and leakage would be inevitable. Maybe they should've put some sealant during the assembly process ? Are all chainsaws like this or just this particular make ?? Good video by the way. I have a Stihl MS-170 and an Echo CS-6701 and have been pretty good friends to me. Just about ready to do a full service on the Echo which is why I'm starting to watch more chainsaw videos. Thank you Sir !
Let me start by explaining that this particular saw is one of those Farmertec Clones from China that was in a kit form and with a Husqvarna pull starter installed. The issue here is the lower quality of there products. An OEM oil supply tube most likely would not have leaked as severely as these do. Yes the use of a sealer during the initial installation probably would have eliminated this problem. Yes most all saws have some sort of a rubber supply tube for the oil supply. Good luck with your Echo and small Stihl saws.
@@craigtimmons3468 Ahh I see now. I agree, those China made items do have some poor quality control. I must of missed the part when you said it was a kit. I recall hearing Husqvarna and assumed it was just that. I'm not familiar with too many other brands other than the ones I own. Thanks for responding anyway. Have a great day !
@@tonymontana897 To be honest I'm not sure if I even mentioned that it was a clone saw, but it is the exact same set-up that husqvarna uses. Sorry if it was somewhat misleading.
Thanks for the video - I suspect I have the same problem with my Husqvarna 365. Why not just buy a $15 oil assembly kit from ebay and swap it out? Seems like more work to 'thread sealant' everything and perhaps riskier since the sealant may 'miss' a spot by accident? My saw is close to 20 yrs old and it started leaking last year. Thoughts?
I have found that the Chinese rubber isn't that great and may not even seal to begin with making a sealer necessary, With the OEM rubber it even degrades over time and may start leaking, The sealer is a trick that can be used to either prevent and/or stop leaks and if one is careful enough should work just fine. Another possibility is the leak may be from the oil tank vent. To find you will need to clean everything up till its free of all oil then set it on a rag or cardboard overnight to see where the leak is coming from.
Yes it did, also check the rubber grommet that the copper supply tube goes into it needs to be good and snug also make sure the oil tank vent between the bar studs is not leaking.
Sometimes these leaks can be very stubborn to locate, clean everything up with break kleen them fill with bar oil and place it on a clean peice of cardboard and check it a couple times a day the leak will eventually show it's self, good luck
You could do that, more than likely you would have to make some sort of support to keep it form rolling over. If the caps were to leak it would not matter what position the saw was in except if they were on the top.
Before I start replacing parts I'll clean it real good and set it a cardboard with a full tank of oil where I'll leave it set for a few days checking once or twice daily ti I find the leak, this may take a few days, then just replace the faulty parts as needed.
I wonder why husky designed 372 (and huztl copied)to have the oiler bolt holes penetrate into the crankcase. Is there a reason for this? Seems like they are just providing a spot for an eventual leak. Is this a common way to build for husky and other manufacturers?
Why it is designed like this I have no ideal, my best guess would be trying to maximize the thread surface area. I agree with a potential leak that's why the threads need to be sealed. This method is used on by most of the manufacturers on different models.
I have a Husqvarna 345 which leaks chain oil excessively is this normal or can I do something about it. It leaks until it's empty, and do you have a video out showing this fix? Thanks mate.
Allen I personally have never worked on a 345, First you will need to identify where the oil is leaking from, and if this saw has the same rubber hose set up then I do not see why you can not use this same technique to fix the leak if it leaking from around the hose where it passes thur the case.
Yes Three Bond 1184 would work, this is just what I used over in the automotive and diesel world and had good results there that is why I use it on saws. Just something I like and trust.
