Bare Shaft tuning will help you get the most accurate and forgiving tune out of your set up. In this video I'll show you my process. Check us out on Instagram: @Inside_Out_Precision
Hey Precision Junkies! I'm on vacation for the rest of the week with very little internet. Feel free to leave any questions below and I"ll get back to you when I'm home 👍
Great job! I especially enjoy the no music aspect of your videos. Too many youtubers seem to think they need to play annoying background music WHILE they are talking. Thank you for keeping it real!
Getting a new bow and set-up and it's a great time to revisit this video. I find when using this method I'm also solid or things go more smooth when I attach a fix blade and broadhead tune.
I can't tell you how helpful this video was. I watched several others that were similar, but nobody painted such a clear picture of the steps to take and what to look for. I was going back and forth from my garage to my computer after each couple shots and re-watching bits of this until I was shooting bullet holes. THANK YOU!
It's nice to see someone demystify the bare shaft syndrome ..... most will talk about it, but just don't explain how to fix ..... keep up the good work!!!!
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks man will do. I have the same bow and loving it. Bare shaft tunned it to perfection using your info 👊 I was wondering...why you don't use a back bar for hunting?
Also, tune with the release you plan to use. A different release can change your tuning. Even more noticeable when going from a trigger release to a hand held release. But two release of the same style, but different make can also make your arrows fly different. And for those who will do nothing but shoot indoor 300's and shooting 20 yards only, your bow will be a tad more forgiving if you paper tune a tad nock high.
Man I know this video is old but I have a triaxx and I followed this video exactly and tuned my bow that I thought was already tuned , taking note to where everything was at just incase I had to move everything back ,but when I was finished I screwed on a 125 Gn magnus black hornet and from 30 yards cut my plum bob string into and after a few more shots I’m amazed how my Broadheads fly (exactly like my field points ) thanks man for the great information
Just used this video for a reference. Got rid of my nightmare QAD HDX and went back to a Trophy Ridge Kill Shot Whisker Biscuit. Paper tuned, then walk back tuned as I began sighting in shooting a bare shaft as I moved back. As you said, if it's paper tuned it will be real close. 2 fletch, one bare tight, tight groups every time. Never touched the rest on the way back. Thanks for your time.
Really good video! I bare shaft tune and don’t even worry about paper tuning with fletched shafts. Would like to see how your broad heads fly after a tune like this.
Yes, "spining" ( dynamic tuning ) definitely helps, especially with small diameter shafts. It ensures they all cone out the bow flexing the exact same way. Thanks for watching man, good shooting to you!
Great information. It would be helpful if you would explain that these adjustments are for a left handed shooter and how these adjustments would change if you are shooting right handed. Keep up the good work.
your channels fucking awesome man. answers so many questions that seem so hard to answer. Ive got this PSE and its just shooting twirly arrows like curly fries or something. just so many things wrong with it. ill take it to the proshop and get it tuned and then ill do these fine adjustments myself as my proshop has a range of about less than 8 yards haha.
Very informational. Thank you. There is a lot of "bad" info out there on this subject. Thanks for helping clear this up. Is there any reason to bare shaft tune beyond 20 yards?
I really like the video, I have a question on bare shaft being mock right or left, if you shoot a bareshaft with a fletched arrow and nock of the bareshaft is right with the impact of the arrow being right of the fletched arrow, should you go back to a bareshaft arrow to get it as straight as possible before fletching? If it’s close, , do you just fletch, shoot to watch grouping and then micro adjust your rest as you did?
What would you suggest after having your bow tuned, and your 1st 20 yard shots to sight in are 50-50 such as 1 shot will be center bulls eye and the other miss the entire bag by 3ft
I know this video is two years old but you do a great job explaining tuning! Anyways I ordered the new bowtech solution and haven’t gotten it yet but can I use the deadlock cams to adjust rather than my rest?
Nice video, all your stuff is great. The only thing I would recommend is adding a bit of electrical tape wrapped around the back of your bare shaft. This will add the same weight on the back of your arrow to match up with your fletchings and arrow wrap. Not that I would be able to shoot good enough that this would come into play while bare shaft tuning for me... :).
Love your videos. Do you use more than one bare shaft arrow? Is it necessary to nock tune? I ask this because I am finding that bare shaft tuning can be difficult, or finicky. Thanks for your help.
Nock tuning can help define the stiffer side of the arrow... This is ubertuning though, you need to be good good to be able to even tell... If your having trouble effectively bareshaft tuning you either have a bow tune issue or a form issue...bare shaft tuning, nock tuning require a tuned bow and rock solid shooting form and are at the end of the process...you dont just go out and shaft tune.
You can be just get out there focus on ur hand placement an everything else will fall into place maybe take ur bow to your local pro shop an make sure everything is in time an square thats a good starting point.
Question? Since I shoot the new Bowtech with the ability to adjust my upper and lower cam left or right. When tuning my bow, do I need to move my arrow rest. I understand about porpoising of knocking point! Thank you my friend Excellent Video!
How do you account for difference between arrows in your quiver? If they are not all spine aligned, how do you know your 1 bareshaft arrow is what you should be making decisions on?
Simple. Use the spine aligned arrow to tune. Once youve got bullet holes fletch the rest and shoot. If they don't group well or have clean flight rotate the nock to different positions until they're shooting good. It's called nock tuning
I have been bare shaft tuning for quite some time now. Trying different spines and weight up front. When I think I have it and I start shooting bullet holes, I end up shooting that same set-up again and find that I can’t get bullet holes. I fletched an arrow recently that was getting bullet holes and now that it’s fletched it’s getting right tears. I know it’s obviously my form changing or being inconsistent, and as much I try to get consistent it is still off. When do you say call it good? I’m driving myself crazy over here!
OK I have some questions for you. I've been playing around with this a bit and am not having the same results on my VXR 28. I paper tuned my bow and got it shooting bullet holes with bare shaft and fletched arrow at 6' and 5 yards. I went outside and started at 20 yards and after my left and right adjustments, the bare shaft and fletched shaft were hitting together with the bare shaft no more than 1/4" higher than the fletched arrow. I figured this was due to the bare shaft being a bit lighter with no fletchings. I then stepped back to 30 yards and my bare shaft hits about 2" higher than the fletched shaft. At 40 yards its about 5" so it keeps climbing as I step back further. I moved my rest down and it improved a bit but only to a certain point. From there on, the bare shaft and fletched arrow point of impact move together with any adjustments of the rest and the bare shaft stays at about 4" higher than the fletched shaft and they don't get any closer. What am I doing wrong here? Thanks.
Thanks for the great content you share! I can get bullet holes fletched and bare shaft at about 4 yrds then when I step back to 10 yrds I'm nock high. Adjust rest up to hit bullets again but then I'm nock low back in at 4 yrds.. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
@@jeremyanderson5752 I watched other videos which talked about how paper tuning at 5 yrds is optimal. Further back is giving the arrow too much time to react to the forces applied to it giving misleading results. Depending of course on many factors including spine, tip weight and draw weight. I paper tuned at 5 yrds and moved on. I'm shooting 6" groups at 60 yrds. I feel like I should focus on my form now at trust my setup. Cheers!
I have a Right Hand Traverse and keep on getting a tail left. My initial thought was spine but from 250 up to 340 I get same tail left. I have the centre shot at 13/16. I had it that you move the rest to the left if you have a tail left but from your video it seems that I need to move it right. In my case this will bring the rest closer to the riser and that can result in vane contact. How much closer to the riser can I move centre shot? Will swapping top hats help? Looking at the cams from behind the bow the spacing of the top cam is basically even. Bottom cam is much more to the left almost touching the limb. Itis not that I’m new to the sport. Got my national colors last year in IBO and was the over-all winner of the South African Bow Hunters Association’s 3D shoot in the Fixed Blade Broadhead class. That was with my Bowtech Insanity CPXL. I though I know how to tune a bow.... but I’m not getting the Traverse to where I want it. Specs, 65#, 31.5” DL. Arrows at 31” with 50gn inserts and 100gn tips. Blazer vanes 2” x 3 and Bohning double lock nock and 300 spine. Most charts and calculators indicate 300 spine. Need some guidance. Thx Vick
Keep your center shot at 13/16. Left tear, move your cam to the left with top hats first. Rest goes to the right only on final micro adjustment. Cams follow the tear, rests go opposite tears.
I paper tune my bows and got a perfect bullet hole from 8 feet all the way to 40 yrds I only shoot mechanical broadheads would I have to do a bare shaft tuning.
How about what to look for when buying a used bow? I had bought a used bow from a reputable dealer in Dec that had replaced strings and limbs so I thought it was good to go but this last weekend one of my cables broke which basically blew the limbs, cams and mods apart, had it been hunting season i could have been SOL. Luckily i was shooting at a dealer shop and he had all new parts and was able to get me going again. What do others do in this situation if it was to happen to you? Do a lot of people have back up bows just in case?
Unfortunately most companies only honor their warranty with the original buyer. That really sucks that happened to you though, usually a used bow is legit!
@@InsideOutPrecision Yea I know most companies only warranty new bows. I consider myself lucky that I was only into this NO CAM for $80 before it broke so getting it fixed was still a no brainer. I was just thinking that other people may benefit (especially new archers) from a video on what to look for if they are buying a used bow.
first shot you moved the rest to the left when the fletched arrow was on the right of the bare shaft. next you shot the bare shaft to the right of the fletched arrow and you move the rest to the left. am I missing something?
So I nock tuned my arrows through paper and had a consistent high tear. I lowered my knocking point and shot bullet holes with all 6 arrows. I then fletched one arrow and shot it through paper and I’m getting a low right tear but my bare shafts still shoot bullet holes? What’s the reason for this?
When bareshaft tuning at distance should you pay attention to what the shaft is doing in flight? So I shoot a bareshaft that bullet holes at like 3 feet and 6 feet. Then I take it outside to see if bareshafts and fletched group together. They group together but my bareshafts will be flying tail left or right. Enough you can see it and it is flying at an angle through the air. Is that just normal due to not having the vanes or no?
What about checking your shaft stiffness or weakness when bare tuning? You mentioned in beginning and never talk on it. I run a 350 VAP SS. 65lb. 250 up front. 510 gn total.
If you bareshaft tune, is it necessary to check your center shot by doing modified French tuning or does your center shot get lined up when you bareshaft tune?
Okay I have a question I am having issues trying to tune my Hoyt torrex compound bow. It's almost like no matter what I do the spine of my arrows seem to still be too weak but at the same time I can't tell if it's just the arrow is not knock turned or if my bow is not in tune. Where should I start any comments would be greatly appreciated
Why do you paper tune with a fletched arrow first? In this case, it seemed like the fletched arrow lied to you a little. Why not start with bare shafts first? Thanks for the content.
My question is after paper tuning I get a bullet hole but then when I check my center shot doing walk back tuning I have to make rest adjustments, won’t this knock off my paper tune in the process?
Question: wouldn't the high left rear not be because of the vanes not steering, but because you've taken about 18-24 grains of weight from the back of your arrow and weakened the spine a bit?
I have a bear Devergent eko that paper tunes a 300 spine and a 350 does fine bare shaft but my pse drive 3B only does good with 350 spine the 300 leaves a bad tear. I'd like to go heavier. Peace Leo
I'm amazed that people won't take that little extra time & synchronize the difference between the fletched arrow & the bare shaft. U can align a car but if the frame or foundation is crooked it won't matter. Then to make things worse they then throw a mechanical on & say good enough. Then they wonder why they have an 8 hour long bloodtrail with no results. I personally will not fletch an arrow unless the field points spin perfect & I know that I have the insert/outsert perfect. I have 5 perfect on my latest arrow build for my new bow & I'm still working on the 6th.
We have some on order, but haven't got to play with them yet. If it's similar to the cocking mechanism that rip cord or QAD uses, it's gonna have issues haha. But if it works it will be awesome!
I read 2 articles when I Googled how to bareshaft tune and one article says if you shoot a fletched arrow and a bareshaft arrow and if the bareshaft arrow hits to the right of the fletched arrow, move the rest to the RIGHT towards the bareshaft (chasing the bareshaft). And then the other article says if you the bareshaft and fletched arrow and if the bareshaft would hit to the right of the fletched arrow, move the arrow rest to the LEFT towards the fletched arrow (chasing the fletched arrow). I'm confused. Which one is it? I'm guess you should move your rest towards the fletched arrow since the bareshaft is expected to be shooting bad and you're trying to fix it to match the way the fletched arrow is shooting so you can group them together. Which one is it? Thanks.
Stephane Piat good question. I have my powermax set ~1/8” nock low, otherwise my bottom cam needs to be advanced to the point where the wall gets mushy
Soo in theory once your tuned and matching at 20y will your paper tune be out o wack? The way it looks is your just using it as a starting point. Also with my bowtech with duel yokes could I yoke tune the bareshaft and keep my center shot perfect?
I noticed your bare shaft doesn’t even have wraps on it. Did you add something like electrical tape to the bare shaft in order to get the weight the same as a fletched shaft? You are probably 30 or more grains lighter with the bare shaft if not.
You can add a wrap if you want, but I've never had an issue not having one. I suppose if you really want to mimic your vane weigjt you could though. Those mini blazers only weight 12 grains (all 4) and wraps only weight 7. Thats barely more than the weight nock so it shouldn't have any effect
@@InsideOutPrecision I've had a look at the spine video and understand arrow spine and how to select and tune arrows as I've shot olympic recurve and can bareshaft + paper tune my recurve bow and also use the Easton chart to pick a suitable shaft for tuning However with my compound I've not been getting decent groups and for the past few days I've been trying to paper tune but can't seem to get a tail right high tear out At 30" - 6 feet from the paper I almost get a bullet hole, sometimes nock height is level but I get a slight right tear other times nock high right tears..... I've shot with the string away from my face just incase it was face contact on the string but there was very little difference... At short distances I can get the bullet hole I've moved the rest, adjusted the rest height and tension on the rest from super stiff to almost holding the arrow weight... But if I step back say 5 yards I get nock high right tear... I can fine tune the nock high but not the nock right as the tear is around 2"+ I've shot with open relaxed hand and normal grip with a finger sling I've even cranked the bow down 6 turns to reduce the weight but no difference and shot with and without stabilisers I've shortened my drawlength from 27" to 26.5" but the only difference is I feel cramped on the 26.5" so have gone back to 27" otherwise I have to raise my bow shoulder to accommodate the shorter drawlength, with the 27" my release elbow is a little low but the shots are consistent because I can get the shafts to touch at 10 yards... I can draw level and bring the hand to anchor without craning my neck to find the peep so it feels comfortable and can handle the bow weight (my recurve I shoot 26.5" drawlength and 47# on the fingers) I've shot pulling hard into the stop to having just enough pull to hold it in the valley, no difference other than the feeling of the shot... Using a thumb release truball max pro 4... I can trigger it using my thumb or pull through the shot using arm/back tension with my thumb wrapped around the trigger I have a PSE stinger extreme, draw weight approx 50# (measured at 49.6# using my digital scale) My arrows are Easton XX75 platinum plus... 2016 at 29" and Easton XX75 platinum plus... 2013 at 28"... I think the point weight is the standard nibb that's around 70grn The 2013 show less of a right tear but still nock high Shooting with the fletch and bareshafts at 10 yards.. Unfortunately that's all I have at home I can get the arrows to group within an inch of each other and the bareshaft lands left of the fletched arrows with nock kicked up within an inch of the group If I watch the arrow flight there is a kick right of the nock which shows up on the paper tune at around 5 yards The only thing I haven't tried is cutting down the shafts to 27"... I have an arrow saw so can try that but if the arrow isn't right, then will that help? Are the arrows weak or stiff... Kinda hard to work out for compounds... Recurve finger release its a stiff reaction The cable guard has enough fletch clearance approx 1/8 of an inch+... I've also tried moving that Arrow is level and centre shot as close to straight as I can get it The question is how do I use the chart... Do I use the ATA bow rating 316 with my drawlength and draw weight to select the spine group or do I need to buy a chronograph and measure the speed at my drawlength I'm interested in target compound and not hunting and would like to progress further with this.. Just having a hard time at the moment getting consistent groups out to 18m/20 yards at the club
@@b12khx89 whoo, that is a lot to take in. What kind of rest are you running? For a right handed shooter a tail right/high tear that won't leave is usually a sign of too stiff an arrow. Try increasing point weight. The rest will have a lot to do with it as well. Cable driven drop aways sometimes don't support the arrow long enough for bows with nock travel, which the stinger does.
@@InsideOutPrecision the rest is an avalon tec one rest... Nothing fancy but I did try and move it to tune and it ended up looking like the arrow was pointing away from the bow more than my recurve has ever done so I've gone back to all square I'm still working on my form and using my old recurve arrows in the meantime, the XX75 platinum plus are limited for different points with heavier weights so kinda stuck there... I'm not shooting compound for competition yet but would like to get better so tested it via the paper tune as I can see weird arrow flight if I watch the arrow I wondered how you would use the Easton guide to select an arrow as it has different ATA speed ratings and using the bow weight and drawlength information it kinda puts me in T6/T7...which is probably wrong I am working on getting a form video done for you... The UK weather is getting better so I'll be in touch via your instagram
@@b12khx89 that rest could definitely be part of the problem. I'd try a limb driven drop away like the Vapor Trail Gen7. Also I'd recommend going to an all carbon arrow in a 400 spine cut at 27-27.5". As far as paper tuning, I generally just paper tune at 6-10 feet and get a bullet hole with a bare shaft and a fletched shaft, then shoot them at 20yds and micro adjust my rest until they hit together. Definitely send me a video when you get a chance!
I am currently shooting the Hoyt RX1, my first bow ever but I’ve learned a lot with it and started building my own arrows but I want to do a new build with a Vertix. When I go in to the pro shop to get my bow and get it set up, should I take a couple arrows that I’m going to shoot, fletched and bare just to test both? And to be on the safe side take a Broadhead that I’m going to be running as well just to make sure everything checks out? Thanks
Yeah I'd take your arrows to tune it. Make sure they know what they're doing when it comes to bare shaft tuning. Some times they will make things worse if they don't know how to read it properly haha!
In the beginning of this video When it comes to making adjustments to your rest when you paper tune a bare shaft, does the same concept pertain to that just like it does when paper tuning a fletched arrow? (Meaning if you have a tail right, move rest to the left. If you have a Tail left, move rest to the right, if you have a Tail low, lower rest and if you have a tail high, raise your rest.) Same adjustments with bare shafts?
@@InsideOutPrecision Is it necessary to strip off the fletchings off all your arrows and bare shaft tune all your arrows or just have one bare shaft arrow to work with fletched arrows?
How do you know if the arrow shaft is too stiff-spined or not stiff enough for the bow strength/speed? Will you see a difference in bare shaft testing with two different shaft stiffnesses. I shoot at 62lbs from an RX1, trying to figure out if the 350 or 400 shaft is better for the tune-up with 13.33FOC, VAP TKO with outsert and 100gr tips. Also, do you need to make sure the arrow weights are the exact same? Or, is the decreased fletching weight negligible?
The weight of the vanes is negligable. Generally you won't see a spine issue through paper unless it's way too stiff or too light. But if you get a bullet hole through paper and then your bare shaft impact way right or left of your fletched shaft, then you'll k ow you're too weak or stiff. What draw length are you shooting?
I’m trying to paper tune and I’m getting a weird tear. My center shot is on, I think I’m at the point of moving the top hats. Can I send some pictures of the tears?
I’m looking to get more yards out of my setup. I’m shooting an HHA optimizer single pin and I get about 90-100 yards max. Does Spot Hogg max out at longer distances? FYI I practice longer distances by choice. Makes anything 50 and less so dang easy.
Inside Out Precision that is great to know! My peep sight is currently too high to touch my nose to the string as a third anchor point... Moving it down about an inch would give me that third anchor point and possibly more distance? Thanks for the knowledge man, I’ve been watching all your videos and you have such great insight! Your videos have helped me out in so many ways, keep it up. Shout out from Edmonton, Alberta!
Honestly this is more of a target archery tuning method. Get a bullet home from 5 yards with a fletch shaft and your broad heads should fly really well
I have a vxr 28. Specs are 28/60 arrow is an easton da torch 330. I keep getting a nock low tear, I've tried lowering rest, raising nock point and nothing helps. The only way i can fix it is to make the bottom cam hit first and i know that's not the correct way to tune a bow, so what should I do to fix it? I have my own press and draw board.
At 7:08 you saying that moving rest moves the back of arrow? It's the furthest thing forward touching the arrow moving the rest should be moving front of arrow should if not ?
Can i paper tune with only moving my rest? I dont have a bowpress to adding turns to the string is a no go at the moment. I did do it moving only the rest when i gott my bow, but just want to confirm that im doing it rigth.
I've got about an inch and half tail high tear thru a whisker biscuit so I can't adjust my rest, is there anything I can do to try and get the tear to tighten up.
I am wanting to bare-shaft tune, but not have been able to. What I am seeing is that from 0-30 my groups are as expected, however at 40-60 yards, my groups open up and are mostly horizontal stringing. What are your thoughts?
My issue was a leveling issue between D-Loop and rest. My shop had it level, but my bow did not like that. I played with it today and now I am good on target all the way out to 60 yards. Thank you.
