Fuel line holding clips under my car were destroyed after breaking all 4 wheels off the tarmac and landing as gently as possible, so i just ziptied the dangling blue fuel lines to the nearby brake lines. This was in 2006, 2018 and the zipties are already the same color of the underside of the car now, can't tell it was ever jury rigged!
At work I made a policy... all temporary fixes must be labeled with a "blame tag" nothing the perpetrator of the temporary fix and the date it was installed.
I love those Fluke meters. Years ago I bought a Fluke 77 and a couple months later while putting my tools away at a job site i managed to leave it on my work truck bumper and drove off down the highway. Some guy followed me off the exit and jumped out at a stop ran to my window holding my meter, he had watched it fall off my bumper and bounce and slide down the road. The whole back of the yellow rubberized case with belt hook was completely worn down to the the meter itself, it looked like someone had taken an angle grinder to it. It no longer functioned though in any setting. I sent it back to the Fluke service center with a note telling them what happened to it, fully expecting them to total it or give me a tidy bill. I was surprised when a few days later it was shipped back, it had a brand new protective case and new display window still with protective film and a read out of all the tests and calibrations, cost? $0.00 Good company with quality stuff.
While that is awfully nice of them that's one of the reasons they're so expensive, they're wearing the expense of their customers' mistakes - ala Snap-On.
My neighbor, a mechanic once told me they hooked a 20 foot steel pipe to a ratchet to get a bolt out. Broke the ratchet and Snap-On replaced it, that is why they are expensive not just customer mistakes.
chris osh .. aah, yeah a defib sends a shock to stop the heart, then your autonomous nervous system ( the bit of your brain that controls breathing, heartbeat etc ) gets it firing in the correct sequence
Apparently, pace makers come with a test mode that surgeons trigger with a magnet to test it just before implanting. So although there is not enough Voltage in the batteries to give you a shock, someone with a pacemaker could be vulnerable from the magnetic field next to the 100s of amps in the cables.
Can't remember the movie, but they were on the subway tracks Watch the third rail it's 600 volts! It's not the volts that kill you it's the amps. How many amps is it? ENOUGH TO PUSH A TRAIN!!!
Sounds like a good logo for the next shirt, "Temporary is only temporary if it doesn't work. " or "There is nothing more permanent than a temporary solution that works." then have some kind of graphics of something being held together with wire tires and duct tape. .. i'll take a blue 3XL.
The movable contacts on the F-R switch are not returning to their fully extended position. You bent the fixed contacts, but the movable link looks to be in the position where the spring is compressed. The Reverse side seems OK but the Forward side needs some cleaning up by the looks of it.
Looks to me like somebody was having trouble getting it to engage, probably dirty contacts then, and went to reefing on the handle. Right jammed the floating bar back. Since then it looks like there's been a buildup of corrosion to fill the space.
Some horrid flashbacks to the old Ford Jubilee...6v and positive ground. Gross. Of course, the 50 some year old starter never gave a fuck about 12 or 6 volts, just keep the ground right.
@Lassi Kinnunen electrons flow from negative to positive in reality whereas conventional current will show circuits flowing positive to negative. It matters not most of the time so long as one is consistent. Anyway positive "ground" is just one way to think about recollecting the used pixies I think.
Otherwise known as old English car disease. Scared fourteen bejeebers out of me the first time i tried dancing with the pixies on the then girlfriends Austin 1800
Damn, but do I love watching your videos. Always good to watch someone I respect do some practical troubleshooting, ESPECIALLY when they can differentiate between "good" and "good enough to get the fuckin' job done". AvE, I've actually used your videos to train my guys on ways to use common sense to diagnose equipment in the field, and to make emergent repairs if necessary. Videos like this one are a perfect example of WHY- you break stuff down into manageable bites, explain your logic along the way, and give enough background using your own personal experiences for anyone with half a brain that's watching to be able to extrapolate and apply that information to a completely different system two weeks from now. I can usually figure out the problem, and I can more often than not come up with a solution that DOESN'T require slapping in a bunch of new parts, or having a piece of gear down for a week while WAITING on said parts- but I've never been very good at being able to successfully explain the why or the how to OTHER people. When someone asks, "well, boss, why did you do it THAT way? How'd you know where to start looking for the problem?", my go-to answers of "that was just what made sense to me" or "I had a hunch" are about as useful as tits on a nun. Your videos don't just help my guys learn how to troubleshoot- they help ME learn how to teach, and (at least to me), THAT is the truly awesome part of watching. You've figured out how to package COMMON SENSE. Keep up the good work, my friend.
Dusty Conner we had a sewage lift station down at my work because a uninterruptible power supply wouldn't let the pixies thru. I asked the sparky if we have 120 vac coming in and the system has 120 vac going out why cant we just jump the freaking power supply. He said I had common sense for a plumber and that he just had jumped it.
Yes to all of it. More than once ive come behind another who was beating their head in frustration focused on the little part going wrong. At some point you gotta take that step back and assume you're making it harder than it needs to be. The young pup usually has the answer before i can catch up to where they got to. If not we get her licked before it's punchout time for 'em.
@@jiggermole I can't say much, I AM one of the younger guys (I recently entered my 30's)... but I enlisted at 17 and was out dealing with industrial fuckery before I turned 19, and was at a refit facility doing the big jobs and playing politics not long after I was old enough to drink (well, drink LEGALLY, which we ALL know is something on the top of every sailor's priority list 🤣). That early start coupled with some hard work meant that at 26, I had earned enough rank and acquired enough experience to be "that guy". I was in charge, did good work, and generally I was trusted enough to keep my bosses' interference out of my shop, but I still had political BS to deal with from time to time. In pretty much every field, you're going to run into at least ONE guy that's convinced himself that he learned enough in his first 15 years to be better than everyone younger then he is, and hasn't bothered to learn anything knew since that point... and unfortunately, THAT guy is also the one that tries to throw his weight around, pull rank, and in general let his ego get in the way of accomplishing the job, usually while word-vomiting platitudes like "I bet you didn't learn this in school", "those new tools are too complicated", "this was designed and built before we even had computers, so you're wasting your time using one to find information/find a tech manual", ect. They're usually the guy that hasn't realized that there's a difference between 15 years experience and 1 year experience repeated 15 times.
Aint nothing like approaching it in a logical electrical path and finding the faulty contacts when you have a schematic. That's what makes you our RU-vid hero.
This is an awesome schematic explanation, I have been a novice engineer and inventor for my entire life, only starting to appreciate the basics of electrical engineering you are definitely a role model and I appreciate everything you put up here thank you from the bottom of my heart
100 amps at 34 V is ~3400W (shocker, I know). Assuming creep is 20% power, that's ~2.7 kW going into that resistor. The highest power space heater you can (well, should) plug into a typical wall socket in North America is 1.8 kW. A nice seat warmer indeed.
AvE Especially when a driver decides that the vent under the seat is a good place to "hide his stash" and makes the place smell like Woodstock. And thats when I get called "Glenn , the forklifts pouring out smoke!" "Uh , call the fire department." "We can't do that." "Why?" "....." "Hello...you still there?"
My neighbor fried off his wedding ring (and attached finger) accidentally completing the circuit on a marine battery last year. Good glovin is important
So in short, you fixed the ol'Jeezless thing. Nice work huge fan. Not a person who owns a metal shop but watch your videos religiously. Your, commentary is second to none.
That center set of contacts (the moving ones) is spring loaded and should slide in the mechanism. It looked as if the ones on the right side were not springing to the right properly. That (I believe) is why it was not making contact with the stationary contacts.
Hey Uncle Bumbleefuck I had an electrician over here yesterday what fer installing a new hot tub and I accidentally called the man an electchicken to his old mug. A Freudian slip of some sorts. Thanks for that!
AVE ...... 20 years in the industrial battery industry , Open circuit voltage should be 2.10 to 2.12 vpc . Specific gravity should be 1.280 Kw battery has been out of business for about 20 years , surprised is still chooches ....... I would still be attacking the fwd/rev contacts ....
And...never water a dead battery. If you must water, add to the moss guard which is the red holey plate. To tell how many amp hours of pixies it holds, decipher from the model# of the battery. If there's no label, take the cover off the ICC at Cell 1. Cell 1 has the red lead coming off it. That battery looks like maybe a 18-100-15. Amp hours per plate * (plate count / 2 - 1) makes 36V and 700Ah. I used to work at a lead acid battery service company.
@@courtrutherford8913 yes sir , does seem to be a 15 plate . 17 would be dual post , about 3" center to center. What area did you work ? What company if you don't mind me asking. As I'm sure you know , there isn't a lot of people wanting to play with these beast every day .
I wish I was smart enough to realize what is going on.... but it still entertaining to watch him problem solve / explain stuff. I just look for small stuff that might actually help me in my meaningless tinkering.
It's always been my experience with fork'm-a-lifts that each cell has it's own cap, and each cell is 2 volts. So, count the caps, and....waalaaa...designed battery voltage is determined. The schematic looks like it operates similar to the old EV 10 systems. Nice meter. I have the Fluke 88V and love it!
The contact that wasn't touching had a spring behind it, and it appeared pushed back and anchored back by the corrosion crud. The other side was moving correctly against the spring. I'm guessing it was parked up with the lever in one direction and it corroded in that pushed back position. A spray of your favourite schmoo, a tap and a waggle might have been the answer. Great content, keep 'em coming...
Good video. Brought back lots of old memories. A couple of pointers, though... 1. Like others said...Get the drive wheels off the floor to troubleshoot forklifts! When relay contacts weld together you'll soon know why it's a good idea. All you need to do is put some good blocks under the mast channels and tilt the mast forward and it's done. 2. When I was a forklift tech many years ago most relay contacts were silver coated to help them NOT WELD together. Filing the contacts removes the silver and the base copper will weld quite well with a few hundred amps going through it. I've seen it happen more than once. 3. Specific gravity will tell you more than a voltmeter about battery condition. One or two dead cells and an old truck like that might run...for awhile. In the meantime the motors can heat up, sometimes enough to throw the solder out of the armature and can also cause relays to weld closed. Saw it happen more than once when a small company tried to go cheap and not fix or replace a bad battery because the truck (or electric pallet jack) still worked, even though they had called me out..." because it doesn't always stop!" Funny how the price of a rebuilt battery can so easily increase exponentially so easily.
My brother got an electric fork lift that had "marginal" batteries. It was a 24 volt thing, and eventually the batteries couldn't make it move much. He took a trip down to the local automotive store and bought a pair of nice car batteries, and wired it up nicely. Usually the batteries would last to just before the "full warranty" period, so he took them back (each to different stores of the same chain), and asked for a replacement. Worked out nicely for his application. In your case, you would need 3 nice 12 volter one. Just a thought if the batteries go a bit south. Yes, it was a long time ago (40+ years as I remember it).
how about a quick demo of 36v and a ring, preferably not on your finger and not your wedding ring. However, a hotdog and a brass ring might do the trick.
With that much current available the ring will spot weld onto the contacts instantly and will be glowing within a second. Not a great place to have your hand.
that want we want to see sparks and flames, I have heard tell of the effect of getting a wedding band caught between the contacts of a starter motor, It can damage the motor. With 48v at 200 amps or so my guess is you could sever a wiener clean in two.
I know two carpenters that lost their ring fingers the same way, de-gloved by gang nail plate on roof trusses. Made me think twice about ever wearing rings.
Dude, loving this series. Man after my own heart. Admittedly I don't hoover my place as much as the next women but I can claim to have repaired the same tired old hoover My mum gave me when I moved out in '99. nothing pleases me more than seeing something be jerry rigged to last just a little bit longer. Top man!
i worked as a forklift tech for a decade and although i specialized in propane truck i did dabble in electrics too. that being said, AvE sure knows his shit when it comes to reading schematics and troubleshooting outside of his element. im sure every one of his friends are damn glad to have him as one!
There was a Canuck named Ave Who a forklift tried to save From a fate of eternal sleep In some forgotten scrap heap So out he pulls a volt meter To test the battery's leaders He discovers some have run dry Aquafina he recommends we try The sulfuric acid now wet And the charger all set The angry pixies he will push For four hours at high chooch When this fails to reveal The real problem in detail To the schematic he will turn It's a reversing switch we learn After much careful deduction It was the improper function In the forward/reverse case What was f**king our headspace This hunk of steel and lead Brought back from the dead Owes its life to the man who can fix anything at hand Voices filled full of boast Let's all shout a toast With beer chilled on ice "Keep your dick in a vice!"
For dry, crusty old contacts, a 3A trickle charge is the way to go! We got our bone-dry boom lift back up to 48V over the course of a week, by doing overnight 3A, 12V charges on each cell pair.
This reminds me of my younger days. In the 1970's I worked as a design engineer for the company that bought the Automatic fork truck design from Eaton Yale & Town, and rebranded it as Autolift. Built by the Fate-Root-Heath Co in Plymouth, Ohio, the same company known as the Plymouth Locomotive Works, making mining locomotives and switching engines.
16:05 the contact bar is meant to float in the housing, yours is stuck, bending the tabs wont put even pressure on the points which is why the bar floats under spring pressure.
make sure your leads are in the correct sockets and check your meter on a known source lest you engage safety squints. Love the channel. Found through Practical Engineering.
That was a great example of fixing something from first principle, you knew what it should do, so work back from there. Shows you have a sound basic understanding of pixie dust.
We’ve had old beasts like this at the forklift shop I work at. One of the old techs, this near 100 year old man, just loves fixing them up till the chooch like the day they rolled of the line. I’ve had my share of boiling batteries as well
You said one thing that fixed my towmotor. Saved some big bucks.The pressure switch in my seat cushion went into neutral.A wire broke inside one of the insulators, not visible. Due to a worn seat cover that displaced the switch pad. Remounted the switch using tape.
I hope you figured out that the floating contacts for forward in that holder part of the lever switch were stuck and needed cleaning. You didn't need to bend the stationary contacts, you just needed to clean the moving insulator so the contacts could float freely. The reverse contacts were floating just fine and made contact with their fixed contacts under spring tension.
It looked like the traveling contacts on the f/r switch were spring loaded to ensure they made contact, and the one on the forward end was kinda hiked back in it's travel compared to the other one. Might be worth giving it a wiggle, see if it springs out again.
That 36 volt positive in the frame could be coming from corrosion on the battery case or shorted wire to frame. Be very careful if you push in F&R contactors manually. The tips can weld and the lift will be crashing into the wall on the other side of room. Don't ask me how I know that.LOL All manuals say to jack drive wheels off the floor while doing electrical trouble shooting
occam's razor! Been there before, was working on no start weak crank. Replaced the started after checking the battery.. Ended up being the battery contacts...
The voltage to frame you were reading is a result of low current being carried by the crystals forming at the top of your battery to the case. Positive plate growth can break the edge seal and allow gas to escape and condensate as well as crystallize growth around the edges. I would suspect the mutlti-color battery caps, they should be venting but are probably clogged. I know others have said 2.2 volts per cell but I see spiked cells to be higher 2.27 on new batteries and I rounded. If the the battery exhibits warmth while not hooked up to the truck you have a more serious short that is carrying enough current to act like a floor heater; call a battery company because you do not want to cause a fire. These batteries can carry enough juice to weld and battery companies often use the battery power to lead in the connectors between cells.
