as im new to fuji and love my X-T3 and Hobby noob in photo like your totorials and idears for testing for my photo journey for getting better pictures and idears ty for that cheers from Austria
Very informative! You're so right about people choosing fuji for the film simulations, saves so much time in post. Questions regarding this setting: 1) does it take more time to save images and be ready for next shot 2) Can i still use burst mode with this setting 3) Can i use exposure bracketing along w film simulation bracketing 4) what are the other ways of using simulation in post like lightroom? 5) Can i use these simulations through lightroom on raw files from othe cameras like sony canon etc Thanks for this tip though!
if you shot jpeg and raw, it does take a second for it to save. There is no burst mode with bracket mode shooting. You can only do one type of bracket mode, so you can not do exposure and film at the same time. You can post process the jpegs lightly and of course you can work with the raw files but I think you can buy luts get the fuji sims for the other cameras but I have never tried them.
Although this is an older video. I appreciate you explaining the Fujifilm Sims. And no you weren't rambling. But for my understanding. The other camera makers have similar Sims. But what am I missing versus the Fujifilm Sims? As someone considering a camera?
You explained this very well and I like your suggestion of using the Bracket settings. I followed along with you and used 3 different versions of Acros (with the various filters). When I downloaded to Lightroom on my computer, I could see all 3 versions loading. BUT, after my computer finished the download by changing the RAF to DNG, every single one of the images came out in colour and the black and white disappeared (in other words I also now have multiple Colour versions of the same photo instead of 3 versions of B&W). Not sure why that happened but would love to be able to re-capture all those Acros versions (they DID show up originally when I checked on my camera too).
Good day! I would like to give advice on setting up the fuji xt30 and actually setting up the film simulation. The problem is that if I set the actual simulation settings in the menu, everything can be set there, sharpness, Dr200, etc. In addition to the WB setting. Here, when I want and have to set e.g. R -7, B 4 cannot enter the menu at all! It works with the classic standard menu. How is it possible? I have 7 settings that I can set, but WB does not work at all. I need advice on how to set it up. Thank you! Vojtek
Hi Wai ! Great recap on the film simulations. It's definitely one of Fuji's killer moves. Question : Are those images all SOOC or did you take a raw then edit then with their film simulations in LR ? If SOOC, how did you take 3 different film simulations with the exact same photo ? Did you do a film simulation bracketting ? (I kinda remember it's possible, but never used it, so not sure. If that's the result, I'm gonna start using it more often). Everybody seems to love either Velvia, or Classic Chrome, or more recently Eterna, but personally, I feel like Astia is the unsung hero of all the film simulations. In terms of colors, it's second only to velvia, but with a much softer contrast, so that it doesn't crush the blacks and highlight. Velvia does suffer quite a lot from that overcontrasty look, and I never quite understood everybody's passion for Classic Chrome, which is essentially B/W in color (why would you do that ?). Then, Eterna is absolutely great for details, but the colors are just soooo boring... (great for video, though). To me, Astia is kinda the perfect balance between all these, and I think it needs to be preached some more. Thanks for the great fuji videos, it's a shame you don't have more subs, your vids are always very informative.
Yes all these are straight out of camera with no edits. Yes this is a film sim bracket mode on the camera, so i always get 3 film sim for each picture.
Great video! Very Informative. Is there any way to add your custom recipes in the brackets instead of just the preset ones offered in camera? I added a Cinestill 800T filter profile and I can’t add it to the bracket settings?
Very interesting. What about using the H[ighlight] and S[hadow] settings in conjunction with the various film simulations? What are your experiences and recommendations for adjusting those controls?
I'm not much of a portrait photographer, you would want advice from other channels. I usually go with a low contrast film simulation like Astia and add contrast if needed during post.
thank you for this video, i certainly fell in to a hole of ideas thinking/hoping that i will continue to stick with fuji IF the H2 has some great record files (log) or some 4.2.2 that some mirrorless cameras are not able to do yet but getting close (would only mention the Nikon Z6 to Z7 and Panasonic Lumix S1 that are able to do it) ... but Im starting to think that I should use these simulations or color profiles to get the LOOK that i need IN camera first. Will try to do more test or thinking in this way in the future.
Thanks for these excellent tutorials! Question: When I shoot bracketed with 3 different film sims and then import into Lightroom, only the jpeg versions have the film simulation effects, the raw (or RAF) files do not. Is this correct, or did I miss setting something up right?
Sometimes, it takes longer to write to the sd card, so I only do it if I know Im going to be doing some edits on the photos. I usually use BKT mode for my personal/casual photography.
W.L. you are mean! Why did you slapped that Avengers movie ticket on my face? I haven’t been able to see it yet! I had a ticket but work happened so I gave it to my daughter! Seeing that ticket hurts! 🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I disagree with your suggestion that low color saturation images are more suitable for wall display than are high color saturation images. This is so over generalized that it becomes just plain wrong. Other statements made in the video are more reflective of your personal tastes than general photography wisdom and practice.
This is all kinda backwards. No film sim has more or less dynamic range, they just have different tone curves. The dynamic range is a sensor quality, not a film simulation quality. If you really want to know what each film simulation does, then you have to have a basic understanding on each of the films they are based over. Pronegative High is based off a film stock ideally used in studio, under studio lights. Velvia was a slide film etc. To get the most knowledge, refract a light through a prism to separated it out into its frequencies. Take a photo of the light in each film sim. See what it does to each colour. Fuji love to meddle with greens and blues, and yellows and reds. Proneg standard is the most colour faithful and contrast faithful. Provia is their most middle of the road. Each sim will alter saturation and contrast, and H.S.L change certain frequencies. Velvia will always inject red into blue, making it appear slightly more purple. That is why it makes blue skies so dark blue, and green grass more lush etc. Even though fuji Astia is a softer look, Astia saturates colour, but reduces contrast and softens shadows..it doesn't soften colour, just the tone curve subtly. Photograph a rainbow in each film sim, and you'll be able to clearly to see what each sim does. Pay attention to Oranges and Yellows and Greens and Blues..and which sims drop the colour violet almost entirely (Two of them do.) You'll learn more this way than bracketing, where you can't clearly see what the sim has done.
Thank you for trying to tell me what the definition of dynamic range is in regards to the context of this video. I'm sorry to say, we do not agree on the definition to this generic term. What I am trying to show in this video is the "dynamic" range of perceived light and dark areas in a picture simply by changing film simulations. Something people can easily understand and are very happy to try for themselves.
