I have been buying tools from auction that come from Home Depot. Had a combo Drill/Impact kit (new customer return). One of the batteries was dead. Checked the cells and they were all close to 0 volts. Jumpered the cells with a good battery. Voltage came up but still flashing Red/Green on the charger. Repeated this 2 more times; voltage was now about 16 volts across all the cells. Still no good. But now getting all 4 LEDs flashing 4 times when the button is pressed. Jumpered J1 and T1 as per this video on a PBP003 battery. It has the same electronic board as in the video. Pressing the button now yielded a single LED. Put in on the charger and it is charging fine. Thank You for the video and the great explanation!
Outstanding my friend! My battery is a 3AH so the jumper spots were smaller and a little harder to find. But once I found them and followed your instructions- bam! Light reset and charging like normal. Thanks my guy!
100% Awesome. I had done the jump start and had voltage in the cells, but the charger still indicated a bad battery. I assumed there was a safety on the circuit board but had no idea how to reset it until I found this. It worked like a charm. Thank you!
Thank you so much, Larry. my Ryobi battery 18v 4ah working again. I got another 18v with 6ah. I will try this method. Again, thank you so much for your video tutorial. 😉
@@MikesManCave I should have done that first, but I decided to disassemble them. At the end I tampered with the battery and thinking I have voided the warranty.
Sometimes Ryobi customer support doesn’t even want the old “defective” battery back when they send a replacement under warranty. That’s when you can try to revive the “defective” one, after you have the warranty replacement in hand.
@@tonylofu1970 There are plastic plugs covering torx security screws. You need to remove them to access the screws. Harbor freight has a security bit set if you don't have one.
Thanks for the short-out instructions Larry, but you glossed over that you have press in the top of the two squeeze-tabs to release the case top affer removing the screws.
This is for batteries that are out of warranty. If you remove that plug, your warranty is void and you won’t get a replacement battery in your battery might be.
Soldered a red wire on the positive and a black wire on the negative. Melted two indentation on the back end where I can thread the two wires separately. Closed the cover, and viola! no need to ever open it again. I just have two short wires (so they never touch) I can tap with pins connected to a 12v while on the charger. 😀
Hi Larry, I have the exact same battery with the same issue. Battery was fully charged, and the charger shows a solid green light as expected. However, the tester button flashed 4 time and no power is outputting. Opened it up and tested the batteries as shown and getting about 20 volts. Tried the reset jumper, it flashed all 4 LEDs then flashed only LED number 2 and 4 during the jump reset. Am I missing something or is this batter gone?
Great hack but opening mine I find that it's a different control board with no well defined at T2 or J1. Battery has 18+ volts and each cell is about 3.8v but still won't charge so I'm assuming it needs this reset but I'm afraid to start shorting out terminals on a lithium battery unless I know exactly what I'm doing. Thoughts?
i have a very old ryobi i havnt used in about a full yr., and from watching this i understood how the circuit board will switch over from blinking red to charging green only after it reads a small amount of power from a battery but initially it does provide a small amount of power with a steady red just as it is plugged in so i plugged and unplugged it about 4 or 5 times with the battery inserted then the battery charger finally agreed to switch over to charging mode with steady red and blinking green light...
I have been trying everything to get this battery to recharge. I pulled it apart and checked the actual cells and everything was fine. But the part that goes into the charger read zero. Your video is the one that showed the resetting of the battery. it got to cold. Thank you.
You should have about 18 volt if all the cells are good. If you have 18 volt at battery pack but nothing (or very low) at tool terminal then it could be a bad triac, they are the big three lead transistors with an aluminum heat sink on the end of the battery. They are electronic switches to turn the power on. RU-vid will have videos on how to check them. Hope you get it going!
Thank you for the instruction! I have the same problem (all 4 check LEDs flashed 4 time), cannot be charged. I used the same method to reset the battery by following your instruction exactly. However, after reset, the problem was still there. Any suggestions? Thanks
Sorry it didn't work for you. Does your battery look exactly like the one in the video? Are you sure you found the correct contact points (T2, J1) to short? You may have a bad cell, check the individual cell voltages to verify they are good. You might also charge each cell individually and then try again ( be careful to make sure you have polarity correct when charging). Good luck with it!
mine ryobi 5ah battery when pushing blink 4 times all green lights, i dissasembled it and made reset like you but it not work , still blink 4 times... i checked volts on battery + and - down there i see 19.72 volts, and when checking up voltage in place were sit in to charger i see 0.4 volts only... up top i checked + i have but negative not come up . when i put in to the charger battery on the charger blinking only 1 red light . battery to hot light.. quess its done....
Surprisingly enough voltage was 26.14 so it's still under 90 day from Home Depot so I'll get another. Just odd that it didn't work. Yes I found T2 and J1 . I get 1 blinking led then after shorting it the LEDs just cycle continuously.
Hello, very interesting and informative video. I have a P191 3.0Ah battery with the same symptoms, but I could not find a similar reset on the circuit board. Is there any other way to reset this battery? Is it a good idea to totally discharge the battery and try to charge it back (maybe it will reset it)? Thank you in advance.
I'm not familiar with that battery so I don't know where the reset would be on that battery. If you totally discharge battery and the voltage goes below a minimum value the charger will refuse to charge it. Sorry not much help.
Need to have a cope of register receipt or rybio wout talk to you. I have 2 batters that have done this and no paper work to show when i bought the batteries.
Probably not- it says on the warranty info when you buy it new that the original purchase receipt must be provided to claim the warranty. Pretty sure you have to show a Home Depot receipt or they won't honor any warranty.
How do you know how old the battery is I know you look on the back somehow up you got to be able to read the serial number on it until the year it was made
The first four digits are the year and week of manufacturing. For example S/N cs2230xxxxxxxx would be 2022, week 30. I have batteries that are over 12 years and functional. Hope this helps!
Dear Larry, Working on ryobi pbp005. About 17.5v inside battery and only 0.5v at tower. All batteries show approximately 3.94 except two that read 2.11v I jumped the t2 and j1 but no sucess still blinks and not charging. Please guide me foward as I am determined to make it work again. Thank you for a most helpful tutorial, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Could be a bad triac, they are the big three lead transistor with an aluminum heat sink on the end of the battery. They are electronic switches to turn the power on. RU-vid will have videos on how to check them. Good luck!
Thanks for your reply. I was hoping you would say to simply boost or replace the two batteries that show only 2.11v. I hope I can find the electronic switch video.@@larrychastain457
Try using similar method , but different order: 1). Press the test button. 2). BEFORE the LED’s turn off, short J2 to ground. PS- the video shows the correct two pins to connect but incorrectly calls the ground pin T2. The ground pin is not labeled, but you’ll notice that it is a square solder pad, not round pad. Also important to make sure the individual cells are close to each other in voltage or the BMS will just trip again. If needed, charge the cells individually until they all match. Lastly, even if all cells are matched…. the overall voltage needs to be over 15 volts or the BMS will trip again after being reset.
Indeed he does, a very convenient evolutionary trait to have occur when diagosing most anything. I myself havent reached such maturity yet, praying like hell that i will tho
It doesnt Look like you are using the T2 point? That Looks to be the Large Silver/black post labeled T2, just above where you are shorting it on the brd. I did find the J1 point and there are 3 connection ports in 2 square areas of it with that number.and with holes in them. Im not sure where to short J1 to ?
I forgot my 6Ah battery was charging in garage, next day I see the charger flashing red light, I took battery off and pressed indicator button and all 4 light flashes, and it's completely dead. I tried jumping wire from battery to battery but that didn't work....... Since my battery is 11 months old I'll call Ryobi first, if they wont replace it or I cant get hold of them, I'll try your trick............
Sorry it didn't work for you. Are you sure you found the correct contact points (T2, J1) to short? You might try pressing the test button and before the LED’s turn off, short J2 to ground. You may have a bad cell, check the individual cell voltages to verify they are good. You might also charge each cell individually and then try again ( be careful to make sure you have polarity correct when charging). Good luck!
He wanted to give us a visual demonstration of how to do this. For the purpose of a visual demonstration, it matters not whether the battery is good or bad. This good battery, used as a prop sufficiently served the purpose of giving us that visual demonstration. This is why he posted it with a good battery!!! Understand???
He wanted to give us a visual demonstration of how to do this. For the purpose of a visual demonstration, it matters not whether the battery is good or bad. This good battery, used as a prop sufficiently served the purpose of giving us that visual demonstration. This is why he posted it with a good battery!!! Understand???
Try taking the battery pack out of the case and checking the individual voltages across each battery you may find you have an "open" circuit (no voltage) across one of the cells, it is bad and will have to be replaced.
