@@TiredOldMann his use of the term "by pass" likely meant bypass, which is not a thing that is safe to do with fuses. If the fusible link is no longer fusible and is just a lump of solder, then it can not operate as intended (break when overloaded). I did not get a good look at the fuse after repair, it is possible a repair was made and it was still fusible (able to break appropriately)
Thank you this has happened to me a few times and only once they prorated a battery for me so I had to pay $13.50 and received a new battery that after 6 months also died. Thank you
Cool vid thanks for posting. a buddy is looking to hook up his 12V fish finder to this battery (from his Ridgid ice auger), he will find a vari-volt switch to step-down. We have a question on the battery terminal. The Left most is "+", Right most is "-" and the two terminals in the middle reads "T", our question is "are they important in the power hook-up" or can we completely ignore them in such a setup?
First I don’t KNOW what they’re for, I suspect it’s for the charging circuit. If all you’re going to do is power some other device just the + and - terminals will be fine. During a recharge you’ll want to use the original charger and have those contacts available to the charger.
I have the Rigid R840084 18V battery, I have two of them having seemingly the same issue, I thought until I opened one up & I'm not seeing the fuse your repairing in this video. Does that model of battery have the same setup or not, if so, where should I be looking? TIA
I have the same problem I can't get a new one on warranty because all the info needed for warranty is on the bottom of the battery and has worn off. Its only one year old and Ridgid rejected my warranty claim. I'll try this fix. FYI like you I'm using my Milwaukee tools to fix my Ridgid tools. Lol!
Don't know about newer ones but mosfets blinked out in the older ones..easy exchange warranty then so no problem..now you'll get registration hassles..
Do you know what’s causing the battery to shuts off when the battery is under a heavy load? My Ridgid battery shuts off in a fast start. Slow start is fine.
So, any chance you would have an idea. As to what could be causing my battery to go completely dead. After leaving it on my drill for about 3 days? And I don't use my drill at all. I've even switched battery packs. And they die too, so I have narrowed it down to the drill being the issue. And the LED light does not stay on, so I'm pretty sure that is not the issue causing the parasitic draw. Any help or ideas are appreciated
I have a 12v Rigid battery for the small drill tool and one of the batteries appears to be physically leaking. Where can I get a compatible replacement cell.
If I see this correctly - Not all batteries have this solder connection. Mine is a solid metal. In addition - Mine shows that it is charged but still does not work. You did NOT show that your battery actually WORKS in a tool.
So you created a "fuse" with the solder? Assume the existing fuse is sized for the battery, and the solder would not be. Wouldn't that be a potential risk for overheating the battery and causing a fire/explosion hazard? Just a thought....
DeAndre Mahadeo This isn’t safe practice. It is NOT safe to use solder in this way as a fuse. You have no way of knowing what current flow will melt the solder and interrupt the circuit. Real fuses are calculated sizes of a known material that will break the circuit at a predictable point. When it does melt, hot drops of metal will be released as drops that may cause ignition or create a short circuit. Real fuses are enclosed with glass or some other inflammable and insulating material to prevent this. Finally, even if it melts, the solder may not actually interrupt the circuit. Instead, the current flow may continue through the melted solder or arc across a gap that is too small. Actual fuses are ‘necked down’ to ensure a complete break of the current flow.
Omg battery police. The fuse is not put in there to stop a nuclear explosion. It will fry the logic board if the fuse stays energize. Clam down people your neighborhood is still safe.......
I have a dual ridgid charger and it keeps kicking on for a few seconds then off then on then off Ect just keeps doing that took it apart and cant find anything burnt looking or broken off any help?
Dude, check this out, I have 2 9AH octane batteries.... They are "defective" on this large charger but the smaller style charger charges them just fine. with regards to reliability, ridigid consumer stuff is really falling down on my list.
I took apart the battery and my fuse is ok. what else might be wrong. I even jumped the battery to a fully charged battery to try to excite the battery and still when on the charger it says defective battery
Kevin Baker, www.walmart.com/ip/33pcs-Tamper-Proof-CRV6150-Torx-Hex-Star-Bit-Set-with-Magnetic-Holder-for-Any-Drills-Screwdriver-Nutdrivers-Bits-Hand-Tools-with-Storage-Case/833217098
I got a 6 Ah lithium battery that has 3 bars light up and thinks it's dead and won't work what could be the fault as I'm in Australia it's a AEG brand ??
My rigid battery says its charging my battery and also says its full. But when hooking to my finish gun it doesn't work. How do I tell if its the battery or the gun?
seeing five 18650's stacked like that and knowing how long they last in my vape, I can really appreciate how long they last for vaping and how much power tools use.
i just bought a Ridgid 18v Lithium-ion 2 Speed Drill/Driver R860052K . it Come in 2 new Batteries, my Question is should i only Charge 1 Battery and use it ones Every 3 Month and Keep the other Battery Sealled in its Bag , so it will Last Much Longer . or i Should use Them Both and Rotate Them , Keep in Mind i use the Drill Every 3 Month ?
I put a battery that died on one of my chargers and it all ascend said it was defective then I put a second battery on the same charger and it did the same thing Prior to this both batteries were working just fine so I threw that charger away have other ones anyway but is there anything I could check to see if I could save the batteries They're just reading defective
This doesn’t seem safe. Isn’t the solder measured to burn at a certain temperature? Putting a “good drop of solder” essential overrides the fuse meaning a lithium battery has no fuse. Not a good idea!
Do you know how to open up their Octane battery? There’s only T10 screws on one end and the other end seems to locked together. I wonder if I am supposed to pry it open or snap it off?
What if the battery is dead and the lights don’t come on any at all when you press the indicator button and then you put it on charger it says defective
Mu battery charge an the same charger let me know is ready . Then I put on my impact an all the lights go off and doesent work on any equipment. I opened but not see any damage.
I have a fairly new tool with charger and battery. I checked battery for fuse like your video, but it looks good. I get the same single light on the battery and goes from green to solid red on changer. This entire unit hasn't been used more than 5 hours. Help
I have a question I have a nine amp rigid battery it’s less than six months old and it’s doing the same thing as yours but my fuse is not burnt is there anything else to check that you know of?
I have 2 18volt, 2.0ah, that came with a brushless hammer drill . Both show no lights when you hit the button, and when you put them on the charger, the red light flashes about 3 times, then goes to solid green. Pull it off charger and no lights still, and no power when you put it on the drill. One, i can understand, but both? Ridiculous. And they're a hundred bucks for a dual set. Beginning to wonder what's with Ridgid. Top price for bargain quality.
If you're having the same problems as I did in the video, that was my solution. If the battery is old and not much life left in the cells, then it's better to replace it.
I got a question I plug my battery in it don't say defective it's flashing green is it supposed to flash gren on the charger once you plug in the battery or is it supposed to be straight green instead of blinking I went bought new battery same thing any ideals it says it charging but it won't charge not even the new battery any ideals?
You would have to pull it a part and do the fix I did in the video. The fully charged LEDs indicate the battery is charged but the safety fuse has blown.
No black on your battery, none on mine. No showing as to what you cleaned. Basically what I see is you put 2 beads on the metal. 0 understanding as to what you've done. But, sometimes I miss things. I would like to get my battery fixed.
That’s not a fuse bud. Note the entire width of the nickel strap is soldered to the board which is connected to one side of the MOSFETS. What you appeared to solder does absolutely nothing. A little trickery going on here. THIS IS NOT A FIX! Shame!
JS I was puzzled like you but I think the way the system works is that the hole in the nickel strip leaves two small sections either side which act like a fuse if too much current passes this point. The area below the hole has a piece of non conductive material which I think would protect the battery container which is plastic in the event the "fuse" blows. I have later model batteries and there is a similar setup but the sections beside the hole are larger. My one did not blow but the battery will not charge so I am looking at a Turnigy charger.
@@ianspeer3530 not so, no part of the strip is a fuse. The BMS is the governor here, not the strip. Do you realize the current magnitude required to vaporize part of the strip? The batteries would likely explode!
@@ianspeer3530 I have not been able to get my Ridgid 18 volt batteries to take a charge using a similar hobby charger. My other drill batteries have worked with it fine. Apparently, it doesn't work without the additional T connections. I'm not sure what those other 2 T connections are for, they may be for balancing or communication done within the oem charger. Each time I have tried to charge them, it attempts to charge but then the battery is disconnected from it. Fancy batteries!
I appreciate you making the video, but the reason we watch videos is to learn stuff. You keep shutting off the camera when you do stuff WE WANT TO SEE! Did you short the fuse? Is that what put a big blob of solder means.
jg again, why would you short a fuse? That’s like putting s penny under the old glass fuses in your house, yes it will enable the circuit, but you might burn down your house.
My entire drill with battery knocked of the staging table and into a bucket of water. Battery has blue light on. I opened up casing and dried. Looking for advice on how to proceed. What is the blue light indicate and how do I bring back.to normal
@@darkenknight5335 sounds like you have the octane battery with bluetooth and the bluelight is when you hold down the button to check the charge level and when you hold it down it goes blue to bluetooth pair the battery with the ridgid app
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else is searching for how to recondition old car batteries try Bablim Battery Booster (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate got great success with it.
