Hello. I have just bought this BT360 tester and I have tried to measure on new AGM battery Varta 70Ah, 760A. The measurement was SOH 70%, SOC 98% and only 670A. Is this correct or something doesn't work. Thanks for your help.
There are 2 types of AGM battery you can select in the menu, Flat plate or spiral do you know what the Varta is? Maybe try each. Otherwise test against a known good tester in a garage. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Seems to be a great tool. I wonder, and will check out, if it is also useful for lithium-ion battery-packs for eBikes. The State Of Health sounds like a must-know metric for each pack.
Hi, unfortunately it is not suited to Lithium batteries. Firstly the max voltage is 30 volts. My eBike is 36 volts ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SlcGpaMVoLY.html Also the "SOH" is calculated based on Lead Acid construction / chemistry and would not be meaningful for a Lithium Pack. SOH for Lithium batteries is extremely complicated to model aip.scitation.org/doi/10.1063/1.5065477 I have not seen a device that measures anything other than internal resistance for Lithium packs and although this is very useful to know it is only part of the story. If you have seen a device for Lithium packs with this type of feature I would be interested to know.
3:12 The battery capacity (CCA or EN) is low, because it needs to be charge (SOC: State Of Charge). As the battery is charged, both its capacity and voltage will increase. The SOH (State Of Health) is the one relevant here, because it is linked to the interior resistance of the battery (amongst the battery cells), and in this case is low - which a good thing - indicating the battery is good, and it is only recommended to charge it. Moreover, the cranking time is clearly too long - possibly even causing premature failure on the starter. Assuming the values provided by the Autool BT360 is true, the battery is good. You should charge that battery asap (I know it has been almost two years 😀 ). I recommend the NOCO Genius, either the 2, 5, or 10 versions, to charge your battery.
Thanks for sharing useful information. Turns out my battery had one bad cell that eventually would hold no charge. Just replaced it this year when the weather got cold! I put a Varta Silver Dynamic E38. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
How do these testers work out if you need to “ replace” or “good battery” Reason i ask is i see results that say “ replace” but then i see results that are worse but it says “ good battery” They don’t seem accurate. Example my battery reads 540A ( rated 680A) 63% health but says good battery. I have seen cars read the same results but say. Replace battery.
Only the people who programmed it will know for sure! My guess is that when determining "Good" from "Replace" it is looking at Cranking Amps, Voltage sag and internal resistance. Your battery may have only 63% of its new capacity, but if the internal resistance is low and the voltage does not sag too much then it is still "good". A battery with high internal resistance may show 63% of cranking amps but the voltage will sag so it's time to "Replace". Just my 2 cents! Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
It all depends on the temps in which your doing your testing in but the general rule is 5 and under is good but it can be up to 6 like and still be good but that only in the most extreme cold so if it in the summer and its a 6 and above the battery has way to much resistance and it should be changed so 3.5 would be ideal for a new battery. good luck.
Hi, thanks for watching. My car failed to start in cold weather. Turns out that one cell has low voltage, somehow it is faulty. Even on a long charge the faulty cell does not come up to voltage, maybe some "crud" between the plates. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
My 4 year old AGM is down to 43% SOH and 450 a (680 A rated)amazingly still starts in cold weather! Good to see you did a test connected and disconnected. Seems it doesn’t skew the results when connected. Sounds like some sort of soft short inside your battery if the voltage can’t be maintained.
If you get a chance pick up a midtronics unit. They are made in America, they are expensive, but the accuracy is what you're paying for. If you take a Volt meter and test it against a cheaper battery tester you'll find that the numbers are off which means the entire tester is off.
Hi, thanks for the recommendation. As a hobbyist I cannot justify that sort of money for something I may use a few times a year. I checked my Autool against my Fluke DMM and it read the same within 10 mV which is OK by me!
Really interesting tool, my friend. 😃 I guess I'm going to have to find one... For my father, of course. 😊 No, but seriously... I think he's going to like it even more than me! 😂
Thanks Mario! It is not something I will use everyday but it is one of those things that when you need it can be very useful. Now I know that I have to buy a new battery sometime before next winter!! 💰💰💰
No, Use to test a wide range of 12V batteries (Starting [SLI], Deep Cycled and Marine) of Wet (Flooded), VRLA or Maintenance Free (MF), Sealed Maintenance Free (SMF), Absorption Glass Mat (AGM) and GEL cell. The major battery standards JIS, SAE, EN, DIN and IEC are supported.
This unit has no USB or colour display, I guess that's the difference. The other specs you can see in my video description. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
For me the "acid" test is whether the vehicle starts or not. Low cranking amps is a sign the battery is aging but until it lets you down I would not replace it. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
That's very strange. It needs to know whether the battery is connected to the vehicle or not. Maybe they changed the firmware and it can detect that now. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
It will test a liFepo4 battery but it does not have a specific setting for that type only 12V batteries (Starting [SLI], Deep Cycled and Marine) of Wet (Flooded), VRLA or Maintenance Free (MF), Sealed Maintenance Free (SMF), Absorption Glass Mat (AGM) and GEL cell. If you tell me more about the battery you want to test maybe I can suggest an alternative. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
@@1nformatica thanks for ur information, i have subscribed ur channel. and im sorry but i nee inform my lifepo4 battery from this product m.made-in-china.com/product/12V-17ah-Life-Po4-Battery-Pack-891672345.html it is a battery rated voltage 12.8 volt, 17 Ah, Input 4 A, Output 8A. if you like you can check more information about the battery on that link. So can u suggest alternative tool test for this battery ? thanks
Yes it will test a EFB battery, the results should be similar to a AGM battery. Maybe ask on the Autool fb page : facebook.com/autool.vip Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
Looked on the autool FB page can't seem to get a straight answer My battery is a EFB Stop Start 75ah 700a sae/enT7 battery but EFB doesn't come up on the display so just trying to make sure your help would be much appreciated Thanks.
Itu tidak mengukur arus baterai. Ini mengukur "Cold Cranking Amps" yang sebenarnya dan membandingkan nilai yang Anda masukkan berdasarkan peringkat baterai. Ini kemudian akan memberitahu Anda "State Of Health" SOH dan "State Of Charge" SOC yang merupakan ukuran dari baterai "penuaan". Ini mendukung standar CCA di kisaran 100 - 2400. It does not measure battery current. It measures the actual "Cold Cranking Amps" and compares against the value you enter based on the battery rating. It will then tell you the "State Of Health" SOH and "State Of Charge" SOC which are measures of the battery "ageing". It supports the CCA standard in the range 100 - 2400.
I will test another agm battery and I will be back with the results. At the same time I will try to see the values displayed by the obd scanner (vcds).
