I battled Dino’s for 2 freaking years bro! I tried absolutely EVERYTHING under the sun to get rid of them and they just wouldn’t go away. The only thing that worked 2 years later was algea barn pods and phyto along with dosing phosphate and nitrate. Tank is looking great now !
@TheBioReef I love mine. I wish I could have gotten it sooner. Unfortunately, it is temporarily out of service. I took the Peninsula down. Video coming on that. But may be trying to install it on the Mega Matrix.
Yes finally some on here who actually understands dinoflagellates! Coolia and osteoporosis are the ones the go into the water colum over night which is where the UV is useful. I had large cell amphidinium absolute nightmare! I dosed silicates to try to get a diatom bloom to out compete the dinos and dose live rock enhance, pods and plankton.
@@TheBioReef yes it worked eventually it just took alot longer. With coolia and osteoporosis as they retreat Into the water coloum they can be easily beaten within a few weeks with a UV. Large and small cell amphidinium retreat into the sand bed once the lights go off so its a whole different strategy beating them. Took me about 7 months of dosing silicates daily to beat them.
Funfact yesterday at my accounts that i follow and was looking to your and asked myself how is his tank doing . And tada here is a new vid which shows its going good . Keep it up
yeah i think it was mostly the UV. I think the reef mat probably help a bit when i was clean the tank in a sense that the junk just got removed out of the water really quickly
Thanks for the update! I ended up getting dinos from using chemiclean. I was attempting to treat a bacterial infection, but I only made things worse. I later learned chemiclean tends to kill off gram + bacteria. Im planning to set up a quarantine tank and use a broad spectrum antibiotic called Ciprofloxacin this time around. Whatever the strain of bacteria is that im dealing with effects certain corals more than others. It also tends to die off on some corals, the corals recover nicely and then pops back up again months later. This all started after some coral warfare when I was on vacation, so strange!
I've battled dinos multiple times - including with blackouts, UV and DinoX....in the end, it is time that fixes it...and make absolutely sure you don't bottom out your nitrates/phosphates - that's caused all my problems...You can certainly help things by using UV, low micron filter socks, etc, but it overall, it will take time...Mine just magically disappeared after a couple months. Also, a sand-sifting goby kept the sandbed from building up there.
I cut the baffles out of my WB sump. Next time I will do it when the sump is dry I think, although the Red Sea cutting kit makes easier work of it. The filter roller is a fantastic addition I think. Does UV kill all the beneficial micro fauna as well?
Dinoflagelates are caused from New Marco type rock. It sucks all the Nitrates and Phosphates from the water. Then Dinos come and you can't get rid of them. The answer to getting rid of Dinos is to dose Nitrates and keep them around 12 to 15. Forget Phosphates as you will get these from feeding the fish and corals. Keep Nitrates at the level above and give the tank time to stabilize. Mine tank is 3 months old and I had Dinos and beat them with the way above. I figured it out in my own as I kept seeing Nitrates drop to nothing overnight. Yes, Microbacter7 is great, but it doesn't help with Dinos themselves. What Microbacter7 does do, is help you establish the Marco rocks and your ceramic media biological system.
thanks for your input. I had dinos in my redsea reefer 250 which had live rock. I agree though that new dry rock makes the tank open to dino invasions early on. My nitrates and phosphates are pretty high currently (nitrates 40, phosphates 0.2) currently, but that is from the dinos and cyano dying back i think, and recycling their nutrients into the water. cheers amro
Nice! I always loved tamarins and yellow tail wasn't at the top of my list but now I have one it's just my favourite fish. Need to get a C. Isoceles - so hard to get females though ;( Still have my filamented flasher and have a blue one on the way. In my RSR250 I may soon have 6 wrasse if the new ones I ordered get through QT.
I remember reading a thread on r2r about increasing the temperature to 80+ (can't remember the exact numbers) but it might be worth having a search to see if you can find the post. There was quite a few people who followed suit after the original post that it also helped.
did you make any adjustments to the lighting schedule, as well as the spectrum? Do you run UV 24/7? Did you turn off UV when dose MB7? If so how long? Did you scrape the back glass everyday? i have a 120 gallon tank running into the same issue with ostreopsis, just received aqua uv 25w about a week ago, so far I’m not making any progress, trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong. There are other reefers suggest to ignore the manufactures recommendations on dosage, and should match 1w/3gallon in order for the UV to be affective. What are your thoughts on that and how is the tank now? Is 25w plenty?
Hi. No changes to my lighting schedule. I ran the uv 24/7, except when i dose MB7, in which case, i have the apex turn off the UV light and skimmer for 4 hours as per the MB7 insttructions. Don't scrape the back glass often (haven't done so since a big clean up three month back). Regarding dosage, yes i've heard about the 1W/3gallons ... i don't personally think that it is an all-or-nothing effect... Also, you have control over the flow through the UV, which is one way to fine tune the dosage that hte organisms receive. I am running the lowest recommended flow through my 25W unit. I would have gone with a larger unit if i had more space.... currently, the 25W just barely fits in my cabinet. If you have space for a large unit, then you can certainly consider it. good luck and all the best!
@@Val_Halla777 i would like to refer to Exhibit A regarding the subjectivity of pronunciation :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G2wkO0DhpEY.html
@@TheBioReef that’s close to what I’m running. The higher po4 hasn’t dented my sps growth, contrary to the chemistry. Haven’t seen dinos or cyano since always keeping po4 .1-.2, no3 10-20, straying a good bit in either direction showed 0 coral upset. Food for thought. That ratio can be outta whack, no3 2 po4 .35, still fine. Build your food chain, bacteria up to fish 😊
I have been second guessing ever using mb7 again. My new tank had cloudy water and I wanted to use less uv filter so I started mb7. It sure did clear the water but it also shot up my nutrients. po4 from .15 to .6 , Nitrate from 20ppm to over 50ppm. I feel like it had bacteria warfare and almost restarted my cycle. Not sure how it cures dinos but if it worked, it worked. I wont be using it for blooms or anything else. I just ordered some dr Tim's ecobalance to try out. I am attempting to do old school, just biopellets, skimmer, and kalk reactor.
@TheBioReef Possibly a bad bottle. I believe I purchased that bottle off Amazon. Best to purchase something like that from your lfs or from a site like BRS for a more guarantee of a fresher bottle.
I have used ecobalance and it did not had any affects for me as most of these products. I think we are just overdoing the bacteria and jumping from one product to another. I wouldn't try out another item before finding out what exactly happened because that is the opposite of what most results are. If your tank is an old tank, you may have disturbed the sand bed if you have one or an old bio block causing it to leak out due to a change in the microflora.
@@TheBioReef, Just want to see why is your system zeroing nitrate and phosphates when you let it go. I can understand hair algae and bryopsis but dinos don't usually comes about unless zero nutrients. I had to battle it twice last year but it was a short battle because as soon as I saw it. I tested nitrate and phosphates and dose them right away, then bring out my UV(green machine), dose MB7, dose live phytoplankton, lower the lights to 25% and about a week or two they were gone.
Will let you know in a few days Mike… had to go back to Hawaii to finish a few things 😂… will be back home soon! Things looked good before I left though so fingers crossed
just got the redsea sump modification kit. The thin blades are pretty handy. I worked from the front to the back, first removing the second black filter bracket, then the two glass panels holding it up, then then the bubble trap, then the first black filter bracket, then the two glass panels holding it up. I didn't remove the sump out of the cabinet - too many wires and connections to remove and reinstall again. working inside the cabinet was really cramped; i am 5'9; i think if i was larger, i probably would have had to remove the sump out of the cabinet to reach some of the corners. It took a lot of elbow grease, but managed to get the baffles out without damaging the main silicone job at the bottom of the tank... thin blades from the redsea sump modificaiton kit are key... without them, it would have been virtually impossible to get to some of the small spaces.
@@TheBioReef do thet staying together in the group? and in with part of aquarium whey swim?because I am looking for fish who stays on top part of aquarium
@@benassileika4668 I think they like to hover over the rock work… I have 2 mp40s a near full speed going in the top of the water column so nothing really like to swim agains the flow at the top of the tank
nope. UV is directional, and i can't imagine it reflecting very well through the narrow opening from the 2" outlet to the 3/4" opening, and then bouncing through the 90% degree grey PVC elbow.
@@TheBioReef I just recently replumbed my uv plumbing. i used to use hard plumbing but switched to soft tubing and noticed that the 90 degree elbow i'm using lights up slightly blue. the actual vinyl tubing is black so nothing to see there.
@@johnnyliu6271 weird - the opaque pvc elbow turns blue ? What uv model is this ? I checked for us spilling out of my canister yesterday with a UV ink and got no fluorescence
