Seems like these videos are 5 years old and nothing recent posted, but if the uploader ever sees this, the appreciation level for these videos is really up there. 💙
you must have had some really crap teachers ... my shop teacher would have kicked him out of the room on the first episode .. sure he does relate some information very well BUT he sure as hell doesnt use common sense ... . this guy lemon pledged the plastic coating then polishes it then removes the plastic he coated with lemon pledge ... he didnt even need to pledge the dang thing he could have and should have removed the plastic BEFORE he pressed it and then not adjusted the tension until he had the whole rib formed ... the guy is doing a half assed job and not even doing that well
Good job. I once worked for a company name General Forming. This is known as Hydroforming. We did it on a much larger scale. Rubber under pressure flows like water.
technically hydro forming is done with a fluid NOT a solid like rubber ... and it is called rubber press forming ... a hydro form is like vaccumm baggin fiberglass or using water pressure to push a forming die into a piece .. and anything under enough pressure will ooze like water ... that doesnt mean it is hydro forming ... HYDRO is the key there ... it means the use of water or liquid ... to make the part ...
the wood will break after some time ... as it is repetitively compressed and expanded which over time weakens the cell structure of the wood and causing it to splinter and fracture ... think of it like standing a loaf of sliced bread on end then pressing down ... it bounces back mostly BUT some parts dont ... after a time none of the parts will ...
nice system seen the rubber being used before on embossing letters into sheet metal they used letters cut out of metal stuck to a mdf board and pressed into rubber with sheet metal in between , think you could do door cards with bead roll shapes by using the same method though you would need to shift the panel a few times under the press to get the whole surface done , wonder how thick a material you flange with it before it maxes out the 20 ton press and if you can do something similar using an english wheel with a rubber wheel instead of a press i wouldn't be surprised if you could bend over the sides to make a mounting flange of the wingpiece using the same template and method , though you might go over it after pressing it to get it at a right angle but you should be able to make the initial radius bend started , maybe even at the same time as doing the holes you might be able to get most of the potatochip out of the center piece by preloading / adding a small raise in the middle of the mdf template , this strip of wood under the middle at the top should be enough , the mdf will deform some but that should help against the aluminium bowing away from the flanges
Polyurethane sheet McMaster Carr Part # 8789K71 ... choose 60A. Any backer under it is fine, the Polyurethane sheet does all the work. 12" x 12" x 3/4" thick about $115.00 plus shipping. They have different sizes too.
Could you give more specifics regarding the polyurethane and neoprene rubber that you used (i.e. the part number and approximate price, if you recall)?
Have you tried this with a male wooden part to fit the female wooden part? It seems to me that if you made a male 'cone'... then the press would do the job in seconds as it would only be pressing on the actual part required, so the flange would form immediately... No? Plus, I think this might avoid the whole rib being out of shape too... Worth a try? You'd only need the very same router that you used to make the female that you have now.
For this particular exercise, wouldn't it be simpler and faster just to whip a hand flange-making tool around the holes? (It would be different if the press could do all four at once.)
in time yes ... for doing one to say 5 planes perhaps not ... after that most likely .. wood is an ok SHORT TERM mold form ... if you want to make thousands of identical parts Metal ... and even that will need to be replaced over time ... just a lot longer time between than wood ...
how much spring back did you account for in the flanges ... if any ... or do you plan on leaving the inner flange at a 87degree angle approximately after the pressing ... a flange tool would be much better than this press method for single hole flanges ... and is more accurate ...
clean off the lemon pledge ... its spray wax ... a wipe doesnt clean it off .. it just polishes it ... alcohol ... methalated spirits (thinner) or a mild acid like vinegar will clean it off ... a cloth and wipe just polishes ... seriously ... 3 different eipsodes and more common sense mistakes and fundamental flaws than I can shake a stick at ... all for a tid bit here and there of useful information ...
Seriously ... you left the plastic cover ing on and still lemon pledged the plastic ... remove that before you press ... and since you removed it after all the main work was done ... no need to polish the pledge before more work just remove the plastic and the pledge layer with it ... . I swear if this guy had my shop teacher he would have failed the class every time ... as he is NOT actually paying attention to what he is actually showing and doing and not even doing that all properly ... I came here to learn new stuff not point out obvious common sense head up your ass type errors ... and stupidity ... but what can you expect from an american ... they never paid attention to common sense
hang on you are double pressing ... when you dont even need to you could have formed the inner flanges and the outer edge overlap all at the same time on the press if you actually had a decent press to work on ... and yes that means all the inner holes and all the sides ... even the adjustment you just did for the inner flanges is now wrong because you now are going to repress the rib or hammer it and create new bends and stresses in most of the same areas ... work hardening your material and inducing a stress fractures in to the part before it ever gets mounted on the plane ..
depends ... he's using 0.025 aluminium (aluminum is a trade mark name held by reynolds manufacturing for Aluminum foil wrap as they cant trade mark a proper element) ... so roughly 1/8 inch thick ... which makes it quite soft ... the strength of that thin a material and he could use a 2 ton bottle jack no problem ... if he went to 1/2inch then he might have a problem .. if he was using titanium on the same thickness then he might be shy of the required pressure ... it all depends on the stiffness and malleability of the material
