Becoming Ophelia, or: Pre-Raphaelites are just Victorians Historybounding the Middle Ages, part one

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I wanted to do something ambitious for a change, so I challenged myself to become a woman from a Pre-Raphaelite painting. This is part one, in which I make the underdress of Ophelia by Waterhouse (the 1910 version) and work up to that gorgeous blue overdress that I’ll be making later. This is some serious double Historybounding right here, because I am a modern person, making what I think a Victorian person thought a medieval person wore. Dressception, anyone?
If you wish to support my work, you can buy me a 'coffee' at: ko-fi.com/juulthijssen
* ** *** **** *** ** *
- When I finish the second part, I will link it here.
- Courtney from OpusElenae helped me immensely with the medieval dress techniques, take a look at her channel here: / opuselenae
- I also used the dress draping and construction tutorials on this website: cottesimple.com/tutorials/
- I looked around for inspiration on reproducing this painting on this website: www.naergilien.info/my-costume...
My Threadloops, Eyelets, Buttonholes video can be found here: • Threadloops, eyelets, ...
I consulted The Tudor Tailor (www.tudortailor.com/) for my self stuffed buttons (that’s the book on my table)
-My iron is a Tefal Express Easy Plus GV7556 and my ironing board a Leifheit Air Active M, both recommended to me by my friend and fellow CosTuber Nikki Lee-am.
** *** **** *** ** *
Chapters to this video:
00:00 1. idea and design
01:43 2. draping the pattern
04:16 3. cutting and basting
08:54 4. constructing the dress
12:23 5. finishing and closures
20:00 6. sleeves and finishing touches
24:31 7. reveal (part one)
* ** *** **** *** ** *
Music credits:
-Lullabye (Sting) by Twin Musicom www.twinmusicom.org/
-Allegro by Emmit Fenn / @emmitfenn

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Опубликовано:

11 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 204

@roxiepoe9586 3 года назад

There must be someone somewhere who recognizes "The Year's Most Perfectly Finished Lacing Holes". It is impossible that you will not be declared this year's winner! Magnificent!

@MonaSkovJensen 3 года назад

I just can't get enough of your delightful way to capture every stage in dress making. This was lovely and I am so excited for part 2

@eyesofthegoddess2967 3 года назад

YOu are so beautiful Juul in this dress. It shows your curves so beautifully. You look like a Goddess in the woods. Just love it so much! and yes, the set of the sleeves with an "adult" helping is Couture!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

It didn't *feel* very couture, but it did work very well!

@Lady_dromeda 3 года назад

The mood: this lovely video, an iced coffee, warm sewing room, crocheting a winter petticoat Also, Ophelia, more like oh hell yeah... Ok ill go

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

😂

@deannastevens1217 3 года назад

WOW!!! Crocheting a winter petticoat?! Is there a pattern for such a thing? Sounds awesome!

@Lady_dromeda 3 года назад

@@deannastevens1217 there is a pattern in either the columbia book of yarns or a lion brand book of patterns, but i am making my pattern up as i go. After many attempts at following the petticoat patterns from the art of knitting from 1892, I just decided to crochet a tube the circumference I wanted and then adding a drawstring at the waist.

@Lady_dromeda 3 года назад

@@deannastevens1217 sometimes Victorian/ Edwardian knitting and crochet patterns are confusing

@deannastevens1217 3 года назад

@@Lady_dromeda Sometimes any crochet pattern can be confusing. I can't knit so those are Always confusing. :D Thanks for the information. :D

@deanofthequeer 3 года назад

The audio of this video is very satisfying, like having a friend in the room working quietly next to you. I very much enjoyed the whole process, from the draping to the jokes, to the thousand-yard stare as you sat upon the fabric considering what can only be the deepest of life's questions.

@RetroClaude 3 года назад

This is my kind of project! Pre-Raphaelites costumes all the way. You look stunning Juul like a true artist's muse 💚

@scarletpimpernelagain9124 3 года назад

The Pre- Raphaelite Brotherhood (so much better if it had included the Sisterhood as well but you can’t have everything) was also a reaction against Industrialisation and mass produced goods. The only problem was that William Morris’s socialist ideals were stymied by the fact the goods he produced were so expensive only the very rich - including the Industrialists he railed against could actually afford them. I think the current History Bounding movement is also a direct reaction against mass produced goods - in this case the ‘fast fashion’ Industry - the Pre-Raphaelites would have been proud! Just don’t go lying in a cold bath festooned with flowers like Lizzie Sydall

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Thanks for sharing that, it does connect very well with historybounding that way ❤️ I only took a lovely warm relaxing bath with fragrant oils today so I think I’m safe ;)

@catherinejustcatherine1778 3 года назад

If you were warm in a warm environment, you should be fine. Flowers or no flowers. Aromatherapy is often wonderful (except when one discovers an unexpected allergy).

@scarletpimpernelagain9124 3 года назад

@@catherinejustcatherine1778 it was a reference to the famous Pre-Raphaelite painting of Ophelia by John Everett Millais, he had his model Elizabeth ‘Lizzie’ Sydall model for him whilst lying in an antique costume in a cold bathtub heated only by candle lamps. I’ve fretted over that antique dress ever since I first heard the story, forty odd years ago - priorities!

@catherinejustcatherine1778 3 года назад

@@scarletpimpernelagain9124 Yes, indeed, it was a beautifully put poetic reference to poor Lizzie, who caught consumption from those sessions, or so I have heard. I hadn't heard about the dress. It may well have been around 1000 years old, if it was an original, not a reproduction. Wasn't there a jeweled girdle as well. Was that also from the middle ages? I just refreshed my memory with Google. Apparently, the dress was embroidered, but not girded. Was it truly an antique at the time? Not a reproduction? I suppose an antique might only be a few decades old, but, still, soaking in water, on a living body, for that long, might indeed be hard on material. Juul's response was also an assurance to all of us that the Lady Juul is taking much wiser and nurturing care of herself than Ms. Siddal was allowed, for which I was commending her (Juul). Ophelia, both in the lake, and, I believe, near it, are among my favorite Pre Raphaelite paintings. I'm not very good at remembering everything, but, I believe I like quite a few featuring Ms. Siddal. For example, Guinevere knighting Lancelot.

@vintagepomegranate2981 3 года назад

So like how ethically sources fashion today is sold at a price too high for many people to afford? Like $100 for a plain white tee shirt. (I understand that fabric + labor cost money but I can’t imagine it’s that expensive to produce)

@tobidauenhauer7125 3 года назад

Oh my gosh! I so relate to the cutting anxiety! Sewing for 40 years and still have it ! Love your video. I can't wait to see more

@catherinejustcatherine1778 3 года назад

You asked about the setting of the sleeves. It's something I watched one costumer do for another at a costumeer hangout. Literally, it was some other part of the garment, but that's exactly what they did: Put on inside out, mark seams, pin in place where/ how it makes sense. It was for a different century, but exactly that idea. As someone said, probably what they do in Coutoure (sorry, spellcheck isn't helping).

@agypsycircle 3 года назад

I think Wedgie was trying to tell you it was time for tea and treats lol! Your dress is incredibly beautiful and you look gorgeous in it! Pre-Raphaelite has always been one of my absolute favorite painting styles! My favorite is The Lady of Shallot by Waterhouse.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I love that painting, too! I did consider quite a few other paintings for my recreation, and in the end chose one that I thought would be interesting to make.

@indigokavanagh2475 3 года назад

Can't wait to see part two! This project is reminding me of all the mediaeval but magic fantasy books I read as teenager, and it's great!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I might have been re-reading some of those types of books this year 😬

@mouseluva 3 года назад

One of my favourite things in your content is seeing all your different outfits. No matter how dressed up or dressed down you are you always look like a gorgeous, snuggly queen

@sugarcoatedgoggles 3 года назад

This was the first video of yours that I've watched. What a lovely soothing adventure and I love the way you tell a story. I'm going to go watch more and I'm so excited for the rest of this look! Well done!

@applepie4462 3 года назад

Welcome! You won't regret coming here as Juul is an artist extraordinaire!

@taniamagicfingers1636 3 года назад

Perfect end to my sewing day, one of your delightful videos. Love my new word - incatpacited, something which I currently am!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

You can't have a cat and not be incatpacitated every once in a while!

@Smedette 3 года назад

This is such a beautiful piece of art. Everything from the fabric to how it's filmed to the natural sounds. The dress is lovely, and suits you so well. Thank you for sharing this with everyone. I eagerly await Part II.

@ragnkja 3 года назад

6:20 excellent demonstration of why that yellow thread is used for basting, rather than reserved for permanent seams.

@dianedunshea3949 3 года назад

Just stunning. The work that went into that dress was amazing. Just loved it. You are so talented❤

@canucknancy4257 3 года назад

That turned out wonderfully. You are definitely sufficiently symmetrical. A leg brooch and hands clasping belt, what's next in the "wearing body parts" fashion show? 😁. Thanks for sharing your project and give Wegie a scritch for me, please. Take care.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Oh wow, you saw a theme even I didn't detect! Now I have to think about a next 'wearing body parts' accessory for my next video!

@ievalibeka8171 3 года назад

Ooh, this looks wonderful 🤩 (the Waterhouse paintings have always seemed magical to me) As a sidenote - the dress You're wearing around the cutting anxiety part is gorgeous. Would You ever consider to share more details about that one?

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I did an instagram post on it, it's kind of a wearable mockup of a Black Snail pattern for an 1870s wrapper dress.

@ievalibeka8171 3 года назад

@@JuulThijssen That's good to know, thanks :)

@MendyLady 3 года назад

Everyone needs a red kirtle. Everyone. Preferably wool, but linen is good, too.

@lajoyous1568 3 года назад

As beautiful as this was I am even more eager for part 2 😍

@michellecornum5856 3 года назад

I saw Morgan Donner do this fitting on someone else. Thank you for demonstrating how to do it on yourself by yourself. I have been mulling this over for a long time. I bought the fabric for a Medieval gown 20 years ago, and have been intimidated since then. My list of planned dresses never goes away, but maybe I can reduce it by one or two. I eagerly await the next! Stay well.

@melsmith110 3 года назад

So beautiful! You have such talent and perseverance with so many details. But then, when we are engaged in something we love doing, it is soothing to ones savage soul and not tedious. Love the meow too!!

@teresaunderwood41 3 года назад

New subscriber here, thanks Noelle! A gorgeous dress, and what an absolutely lovely filming/editing style🙂 Excited for part 2!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Welcome 🤗

@horsenroundstudio 3 года назад

Really loved this. Very satisfying. (It also makes me realize how much I talk to myself while sewing. LOL)

@marthabenner6528 3 года назад

You saved my five-year-old nieces princess dress, thank you so much. I've been trying to save it from the mistake I made for two months.

@mb.7105 3 года назад

I love the way you film and edit!

@tamaraelfkin 3 года назад

Finaly a costuber making a medieval kirtle the right way!. it is such a pet peeve of mine as a reenactor to see people trying to come up with a pattern the modern way when there is so much information available on the web by people who have done the research and experimental archaeology already.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

It really isn't hard to find great information on this online, it's awesome. It is such a different way of working though, that I can imagine people are hesitant to try it. I did ask a friend for some extra advice (and mostly reassurance tbh). But it's exciting to try and it works so well!

@TheMetatronGirl 3 года назад

Gorgeous!! Oh, I can’t wait to see part II! Your videos are so lovely and they never fail to lift my mood. Thank you! Be well until next we see your beautiful self.

@marthabenner6528 3 года назад

I did an experiment to make tight laced kurtle's more comfortable. It worked. I put bra cups in the bosom. They have just a little bit of padding on the inside that I tilted to the center/bottom, so that the bosom is not squish together and has just a little bit more support.

@laclarabow 3 года назад

Loved it! The buttons are so beautiful and it fits like a dream!

@user-yv3dy2cj5l 3 года назад

Я смотрю и испытываю полный релакс! Вы прекрасны! Шьете великолепно!

@katherinemorelle7115 3 года назад

Amazing work, as per always! I’m always excited when I see another of your videos coming up. I’m also impressed by how much a tight, sturdy fabric really does support the bust, without any boning. Also, I know that in the 18th century, it was very common (ideal) to set in at least the top half of the sleeves on the actual person.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I was also very impressed by the level of support, I usually never like how stuff looks on me without a bra or corset or boning in the bodice!

@ncalgal4699 3 года назад

It turned out beautifully! Watching how you did the draping and subsequent paper patterning makes me wonder why I ever thought I was dependent on commercial patterns, Thanks!! P.S. Genius on setting in the sleeves, perfect fit!!

@lucycannon6732 3 года назад

Juul, every video you make is delightful! YT swallowed this, but now I've found it and Part 2! I think this is an excellent challenge!

@judithcollins3744 3 года назад

Pleasure to watch you assembling such beautiful garments. Yes!

@julietheis1468 3 года назад

Wow!!! The love and patience you put in to this dress. 😍

@annacampbell8148 3 года назад

Love watching you create. Always left feeling calm and inspired. You make fantasy real.

@magicalaurie 3 года назад

Beautiful, as always, Juul. I love your work.

@SofaraStarfyre 3 года назад

Looks lovely so far! Can't wait to see the rest!

@janatherton9194 3 года назад

It was lovely to see your process and your progress with this dress, you look beautiful in it! The Aesthetic dresses of the late 1890's and early 1900's were an interesting hybrid of Victorian and a romantic view of Medieval styles from older paintings. I'm not sure if you are familiar with Margaret MacDonald MacIntosh and her sister Frances McNair both designed their own clothing with beautiful embroideries based on stylised floral motifs and Celtic imagery . My wedding dress and my cousin's bridesmaid's dress were both inspired by another Waterhouse painting, The Crystal ball.

@KellyAK 3 года назад

I love this!! Cant wait for part 2 ❤

@BaefullWolf 3 года назад

Oh my gawd. I am so excited for this series. You dress is beautiful and as always a beautifully done video

@doomfolk 3 года назад

Hey I just adore your work and the way you communicate is so beautiful and easy for me to understand. I really appreciate the caption centered approach too. Thank you

@sarahlongshore2605 3 года назад

I am loving this series! !! You look absolutely lovely! !!!

@jamiepollard7857 3 года назад

The video title is just *chefs kiss * 👌

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I asked some friends to help me with the title, we had a great chuckle over this!

@hannahgreen681 3 года назад

I love the same dress! I was planning to make it one day and I'm glad to see you are. Can't wait to see part two!

@teastan 3 года назад

This is so beautiful and the editing is phenomenal! Watching your videos always makes me want to sit down with a mug of something tasty and cozy up with my own sewing project. Thank you for sharing your amazing work.

@murdocthedestroyer 3 года назад

I so enjoy your videos Juul- thank you for sharing your projects with us!

@divaloulou 3 года назад

How beautiful! Thank you for sharing!

@chloefulton6941 3 года назад

lovely video as always, Juul!

@archiecat4182 3 года назад

Lovely and interesting as always. ❤️❤️❤️

@debbienewby3997 2 года назад

Awesome, i love watching your videos.

@brissygirl4997 3 года назад

Happy Holidays Juul, family and friends! Wegie too of course 🐈‍⬛😻 You looked gorgeous in this dress, I'm off to watch part 2 now. Thanks for another amazing video

@ccoeurjoli 3 года назад

Tu es splendide !!! J’apprécie le montage vidéo et ton humour ! Merci ! 🌸🌸🌸

@lacybookworm5039 3 года назад

I love the sassy commentary, and editing style. :) New subscriber btw.

@rachelboersma-plug9482 3 года назад

Definitely looking forward to this.

@Lolino 3 года назад

The dress is gorgeous, but my brain is totally distracted by that amazing awl. I want one...

@babydrane 3 года назад

I love it and your hair is very beautiful this way. We rarely see you let your hair down.

@ThistlenStitches 3 года назад

Button reveal magic.. this turned out wonderfully 😻

@ThymewithLisa 3 года назад

Juul, so relaxing and peaceful to watch your creation come to life!!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

✌

@asilverfoxintasmania9940 3 года назад

What a gorgeous colour and an even more gorgeous fit!

@selkiemorien9006 3 года назад

It's so pretty! I really enjoyed watching you drape this, looks very intuitive :)

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I didn't show a *lot* of the draping proces because I'm not very experienced in it and it can be a messy proces with lots of * body * showing everywhere. But it is quite intuitive and interesting way to make a pattern

@KimmiMorningstar 3 года назад

It turned out beautifully!

@mab790 3 года назад

Lovely ASMR👏🏼. Gorgeous red material 😍

@lauratroiano3437 3 года назад

Sei stata semplicemente perfetta e brava. Grazie bel tutorial e che bel vestito! Ti sta d'incanto. 💜

@bassdivamtm 3 года назад

I love his paintings and a huge one I framed. She is wearing a red dress❤️

@agimagi2158 3 года назад

So so beautiful! I have to admit I was very concerned for a second when you tried on the garment for the first time, I was sure it would not close! But that tight fit gives you such a beautiful silhouette! And those shots in the garden are simply magical!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

I was very concerned too and kept checking everything the whole time!

@applepie4462 3 года назад

FASCINATING! Breathlessly awaiting Part II.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

As I haven't started the second dress yet, I do advise to breathe in the mean time 🤓

@misswazzra 3 года назад

I love it! So beautiful, a balm on a very eventful day on my end.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Happy to hear it!

@garlandilluviel3650 3 года назад

"Pre-Raphaelites are just Victorians Historybounding the Middle Ages" - Yes! I do plan on contributing to the Artistic Dress challenge, but the Victorian-era cutting diagrams are driving my having-dabbled-in-medieval-hobbies self to disraction with its use of fabrics. So, I'll be mixing medieval (and other rectangular) construction & Arts & Crafts embellishments.

@bernadettecato4069 3 года назад

Beautiful post again Thank you for sharing yet another wonderful dress making process. I love that someone else has cutting anxiety 😉

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Sometimes the fabric is really expensive, and sometimes you're just unsure if you will cut it right... but in the end you just have to 'do the thing' 🌷

@bernadettecato4069 3 года назад

@@JuulThijssen I recently drafted and made a silk dress. It took me about a month to do the first cut, after the drafting. Soooooo nervous

@spellwithane6888 3 года назад

It's a lovely video. And I'm a big fan of the historically winging it school. 😊👍

@marianavarro9902 3 года назад

Buenos días!!! Desde España!!! Me encantan tus vídeos!!!gracias por compartir tus sueños!!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉

@IrishMiddleChild 3 года назад

So loved this!

@NatJ4reform 3 года назад

Fantastic well done 🤗🤗🤗

@BratBustersParenting 3 года назад

I’m inspired to make this myself. One ghost costume coming up 😃

@ashfordwyrd7458 3 года назад

What a beautiful kirtle. Wedge was just following the laws of catkind... to never let the hooman work unmolested.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

All human work could do with additional cathair.

@judithcarrizo6667 3 года назад

Hermoso 💗 tus trabajos me encantan 😍 que hermosos vestidos muchas gracias por compartir tus talentos ,,,. Saludos desde Argentina 🙋

@paloma_hill 2 года назад

ok "dumpy dishrag (TM)" just made me lol.

@haakdraakje 3 года назад

I just love the aesthetic of the Pre-Raphaelites! Excellently captured! A shame this is an undergarment, it suits you so nicely!

@katieparrish2080 3 года назад

Absolutely beautiful.

@elizabethgeyer-green9910 3 года назад

Pure joy! From your Australian friend 🌻🌻🌻

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Glad you enjoyed it! 🌷

@cherrylee1103 3 года назад

you look stunning. you did a beautiful job. those buttons are darling, everything is just perfect. i anxiously await part two. i am not a cat person, but yours is gorgeous.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Thank you! I also look forward to making the second part.

@helenw6594 3 года назад

Gorgeous dress, gorgeous vid, thank you! Absolutely love the buttons, felt an urgent need for juicy red fruit... 🍒

@marthabenner6528 3 года назад

Absolutely gorgeous.

@c.wright3750 3 года назад

Juul it’s lovely 😊

@deannastevens1217 3 года назад

That was awesome. I wish I was brave enough to draft my own patterns. I can't wait for part 2. Thanks for such a great video. You're having more fun than me. I'm on my 3rd Santa Hat for a man with a fat head. heehee. Well One more time into the foray. :D

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Ohhh good luck with the santa hats 😆

@deannastevens1217 3 года назад

@@JuulThijssen Thank you. You are a JOY to watch. and so much information!! and if WINGING IT WAS A SIDE JOB>>>> I AM THERE!!!! Because my first handbags was a matter of I checked into this and that and winged it from there and now it's an UpCycle Force so much.!! You Are Amazing!!!!

@GwensShenanigans 3 года назад

Yay! I'm very excited for this!

@threadsandpurrs 3 года назад

This is lovely.

@amauryy4417 3 года назад

Amazing fitting....lovely video....

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Thank you!

@jcaylalove8713 3 года назад

Beautiful ❤️

@hazeluzzell 3 года назад

I can’t turn the captions on, but I love watching you, anyway!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Oh that’s weird! Does it usually work when you turn on captions, or just this video?

@hazeluzzell 3 года назад

No, It often happens, not just with your channel. Don’t worry, I really enjoyed it!

@rachelmiller2280 3 года назад

juul, I have finally been able to watch this video... And I have a question...what is your reasoning for the vertical placement for the triangles? Why lower in the front and higher in the back? Love your content!!!

@Thubanshee 3 года назад

Your cat is so beautiful!! 10:26 The dress too, of course, but the cat!!

@pamarnold9378 3 года назад

9:17 Oh No! I have been infringing on patents! Don't sic the lawyers on me!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

You have special permission to use it ;)

@gloriaw9228 3 года назад

Always a treat. Be safe and well.

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

@PolyvoreThea 3 года назад

Beautiful!!!

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Thank you!

@catherinejustcatherine1778 3 года назад

I like the garment very much, it drapes so beautifully well. Congratulations on successful sausaging. Re: buttons; did you fold the whacky wide-angle edges inside each circle to make the spheres? If not, what did you do? (I couldn't quite be sure about that bit.)

@JuulThijssen 3 года назад

Yep, everything that falls outside of the circle is folded inwards to fill up the button!

@catherinejustcatherine1778 3 года назад

@@JuulThijssen Nifty. It feels familiar, but I can't remember seeing it before. When you said 7 for each side, I was thinking you were going to somehow wrap laces around the buttons on each sleeve. Silly me. Such beautiful buttonholes you make.