I'm glad it has helped you. There are many things in the video I wish I could have done better so I'm always glad to hear when it has helped someone. Interested to see how your blueberry mead turns out!
Nice. I used the jointer plain for the bee space on the side. Made it a bit higher too, so bees have more working space. Well presented very practical. Thanks
Hey thanks! Too kind. My mom bought it in 1985 and she built many great things using it. She gave it to me a couple of years before she passed and I have enjoyed learning how to use it.
While I'm not a "Safety Sally" I'd like to mention that there probably should have been a feather board or two used on the 2 x 4" side piece dado work? Quick and easy to make and having owned and used my Shopsmith for many years I know that I would be using them - especially on awkward, tall, end grain work.
Yes, you are correct! I have the plastic SS feather board and I should have definitely been using it. I had got the SS from my mom and only had it for a brief time when I made this video. Learned a lot of lessons in the beginning the hard way and luckily I still have all my fingers. I did some stupid and shady things.....
hello and thanks for the video! I also made frames and yes, it takes forever... I have a tip for you for making sides : cut the lumber so you have two sides in length , the middle being the top bar. then cut in your jointer the extra wood(the glue sticks) , make the bottom groove, cut them in half, make the top groove and then cut them individually.
If you work off the center of the board you can use the small stack dado for both size cuts ....before you slice them lay them flat on your jointer and take off 3/16 off both sides then slice them.!!! This will save you alot of time and extra work
Greetings from East Texas! Just watching this, it looks as if you had done a few processes in a slightly different order, you could have saved yourself a LOT of work, although you would have missed out on making all those wonderful glue sticks! ;) Thanks very much for making this video, and thanks a bunch for the warning about kickback on the tablesaw. I just acquired one, and it's nice to know some of the dangers to watch out for!
Hey, fellow Texan! Yes, I've seen a lot of coulda/shoulda when I go back and watch this. Still using those glue sticks though..probably last me the rest of my life. Table saw kick back is the worst. I hate it. I'm a bandsaw guy when possible. Table saw threw a piece of wood one time (when I was new) and it bounced off my shop walls several times before coming to rest. I didn't like that. lol
I made my own frames and boxes this last winter because I wanted the challenge. It was very rewarding!Then I made splits last week and had to buy more frames. haha...
Hello, I'm south of Kemp (Tolosa), in southern Kaufman County. My son works in Terrell and I use to. I've seen you on FB also. Think I'm going to get a Nuc this week. Very excited.
My friend, Google Paul sellers chisel sharpening. Buy you a cheap set a chisels and do like he does to sharpen. You can save that last step by using a chisel instead of band saw. Those sticks are also good for foundationless frames as comb starters
Greyghost680 I love Paul sellers! I built my workbench according to his perfect example. This video is several years old and I have learned a lot of tips since then. Thanks for watching!
Nice shop smith! I've never made a frame from scratch but a think alot of those little cuts could be done easier and faster if you would make them on the big board before you release all the parts from the board. Instead of 200 little cuts per cut you could Do 20. Have you made anymore frames? I'd love to hear and possibly see what you've learned. Like: what cuts are most efficient on the board? And what cut has to be made as a individual part? Great video!
Great video! I have a process improvement suggestion. If you use your table saw to cut all the bottom tapers on the entire block before you slice them, you will save alot of time and the table saw will remove all the wood. This process will eliminate the cutting and trimming of the tapers. That would save alot of wear on your scroll saw. I'm not trying to criticize just suggest. I'm a systems engineer, so I spend every day trying to remove a few seconds out of a process.
@@IceManTX69 first video is awesome! If you ever thought about making another one with the things you have found out since this video it would be very appreciated. I am just starting out with bees and this is awesome thanks and nice shopsmith. What model is that one? Mine is a 510
@@jackbquick123 I need to check. I think it is a 510 as well. It's pretty old. My mom bought it new in 1985 and gave it to me around 2014 when I built my shop. It still works very well.
Your ShopSmith ROCKS! - Is the table saw portion always that quiet when you cut? (Motor)... Man o' Man... I shoulda bought one when I had the chance. Very Very nice job on the frames. Seems like I would use the band saw more than the table saw for the bulk of the work... Seems like less waste. Thank you for putting this out here for all of us woodworking beekeepers.... :D
was just wondering why you are not using the clamp on your jig to hold the piece in place while you make the cut. is it broken or maybe it does not hold the piece properly. got to be a firmer grip than your hand bro.
Question: Could you not cut the cut away parts from the bottom of the side bars while they are still in the 2x4 mode and then cut the side bars apart after to avoid hand cutting every little cut away part on each one?
why cant you cut the top and bottom 5/8 inch and when you make the top bar, just simply set the difference then? would save set up time? Since you are making the sides i feel confident that you are making the top bars also? Thanks
So my question would be - What cost to purchase that number of frames ready to assemble as opposed to the cost of materials and time even if you had the machinery? Bet this kept you out of the house for a good while. BUT good video and well presented. Thanks.
Hey, I'll be honest, these things are (were, not sure now years later) so cheap from some place like Mann Lake. I did this to see if I could really and honestly I would never do it again as cheap as they are.
Where is best place to buy? Also, when first starting what type do you suggest. I ordered hive combo kit from Mann Lake that is coming with frames with Rite-cell. Not really sure what that is, but it comes with kit.Thank you
This is an older post, but a great one but I bought equipment from little bee farm. He is almost local in Gordenville Tx. He seams to be the cheapest I found.
you drew arrows to prevent the mistake you made, but when you cut them up, you lost your arrows.( I had to laugh), but like your video and how you show your mistakes. you rock. To make things go faster, why not use a dado blade and cut that 1/8" off, before you rip all the pieces. just run the face sideways on a table saw with a dado installed. it will take a few passes, but will be a lot faster than all that band saw work.
These specifications are for a Langstroth hive and that is the dimensions. You do not want any extra open space in the box so the frames need to match the box size. I've seen all types of hives and you can make them smaller.
muy buen video tu disco para hacer uniones tipo dedo aca en mexico no hay en venta en tu pais lo tendran a la venta y cual es el costo o puedes proporcionar informes de algun almacen donde lo vendan te agradeceria la informacion saludos desde morelia michoacan mexico
to visualize how, just arrange the final pieces as if you would like to glue them to recreate the original board. And then see which common surface can be cut in one go, before splitting into pieces. I think the cuts shown at 29:32 could be made in one go, before splitting into pieces.
