This video makes me feel like I am back in high school. The step by step instructions give me the feeling of confidence needed to attempt a project like this. I am sure I am not the only one who will become a bee keeper because of these two videos.
It's after following your videos that brought my interest in beekeeping,I made my own bee hive as you always suggest in your videos,thankyou for your videos
I've been a woodworker about 40 years longer than I've been a beekeeper and this is the best woodworking video I've ever seen to include those by Norm Abram. Great work! Thanks!
Cheers for this, been searching for "beehive making instructions" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Tiyia Beehive Basophilic - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my brother in law got cool success with it.
These videos are literally the best content I've seen as far as making beekeeping equipment. This took the fear out of trying it on my own, thank you so much!
Great video! My wife and I just decided to get into beekeeping after watching my uncle take care of his bees on our vacation to Colorado. Now back in Michigan, I'm glad I found this amazing video so I can get started building a hive or two to save some money starting in this rewarding hobby. Thank you so much for posting this very informative video!
Well this video has saved my butt, currently started to try make my own frames , top bars cut to length with dato groom for foundation width and thickness, side bars are now my challenge. I don’t have the correct size drill bits to go off so I’ll cut some wood measured spaces instead and use those, I love the box jig that slides along the fence you have there I got to make one of these it’s a very handy piece to work with. 👍
I'm new tryin too learn all I can .live in tide country.Been a carpenter for 30 years .think I build a hive my self lots cheaper...thank for the help ..keep up great work
If you have a planer then your first step is planing your 2x6 down to the finished thickness. You get 160 side bars out of one 2x6x8 so you just saved yourself 160 cuts by planing.
Instead of a band saw to make the lower section of the side bar, I use a jointer. I put a stop block on the fence so it goes the right distance. The small angled shoulder ends up being a little concave due to the round jointer blade, but this hasn't been any problem for me. One pass on each side is all it takes. I also joint one side of the bigger block before ripping them off the 2x6 on the table saw. That way I only have to do one side individually. You could do both sides, but the 2x6 wouldn't sit on the table saw correctly (flat) which isn't as safe.
Great video, thank you. Try using the dado blade to cut the lower profile (raise your dado to 1/8" height and have positive stop on the table, make all your lower profiles prior to cutting the side bars to 3/8"....this require moving the fence several times to cut the full width of the 2x6). Also, get a long drill bit and put your 2x6 against a fence at the drill press, drill your holes prior to cutting the 3/8" cuts, saves a lot of individual holes!
Next week (March 10 & 11, 2017), the Michigan Beekeepers are having their annual spring conference in East Lansing. Well worth the time; best gathering of beekeepers in the midwest and probably the country. I'll be there presenting a class. More info at the MBA website... michiganbees.org
I used to make my own frames and boxes but then the price of the cedar I was using more than doubled, I could get it a little cheaper, but that meant buying a whole load of cedar, I was using the cedar offcuts from the boxes I was making to make my frames, I then decided to 3D print the sidebars as it works out cheaper, and buy in the top and bottom rails for my own usage, I used to sell some boxes and frames just to other keepers that I know. I know that pine can be used and I think I will try and source some pine at a reasonable price for the rails and continue to 3D print the sidebars. How has the price of the wood risen in your area? I am from England where most things are highly overpriced, when we were in the EU they used to call the UK Treasure Island as they could sell us things at inflated prices.
NO MORE FOUNDATION 4 ME! Made a guide wedge under the top bar, brush melted bees wax on the wedge. THEY DRAWL IT OUT JUST AS FAST i had a groove down the top bar, so all i did was cut strip 1/8 thick 1 inch wide and 17 inches long! glue and nail it under the top bar best to put 3 small nails in the wedge, weight my break the glue down!
@@mmhbs I hope you got a good deal on it. E-Bay has some good bee supplies Me? i just melt down my bees, wax and filter it out. There many things you can make from bees wax. Candles, lip balms so on and on
Thank you for what is probably the best beehive making videos on the internet! Can you post a link to the dimensioned drawing for the frames and hives?
Could you just run the sidebar stock through a thickness planer before you cut the dadoes and ripped them off the blanks into individual sidebars? This would save having to trim each one individually to the correct width.
I have enjoyed your video, I just have to make it simpler. I use hand tools. I do have miter box but it's made out of cast iron to heavy for me to move anymore.
Thank you for the best video in the world. I waited out the video about making framework. I was tormented by one question. Why everywhere The height of the side bar frame is equal to the height of the entire frame. This is a mistake. The height is the height of the entire frame side bar with the addition of (1/2) - (7/16) = 0.0625 inch. Nowhere in the world I could not find clarification on this matter. Also, do not size is set at of the frame and under the frame. Shoulder frame is beveled so it was important to know the size. Not having such a framework, I drew on paper and vymeryat this distance. I received the sad result. If you put the two buildings, then you from the frame to the upper frame is the distance that does not match the bee space. Maybe I'm wrong. Correct me please.
Great video for me until you got to the band saw.. My problem is, that I have no band saw. Any idea how to do the rest without a band saw. I also was kind of surprised when you ripped the side bar to width not controlling the piece in between the fence and blade. But it looks like there was not much of a kick back. I presume I can but the 3 /5/8 on the side with the table saw blade sticking out that far?
The band saw is used for two operations: one trims the side bars to width below the taper and the second cuts the bevel on the end of the top bar. Both can be using something other than a band saw. For the side bar, a jig saw would work as would a table saw or a router. However, the table saw would be somewhat of a hassle and tedious. A jig saw (either electric or hand) would be easier though a bit more time consuming than the band saw. Also, a router (with a router table) would make this operation a snap. For the tapered ends of the side bar, I have lately been using the table saw with the blade rotated about 5 degrees from vertical. Since the top bars are 3/4 inches high, I use 1x stock (such as a 1x8 or even a 1x10). Cut the stock to the length of the top bar (typically 19 inches long) which is Step 20 in the downloadable plans. I then skip to Step 13 and cut the lower dado. Next, rotate the blade 5 degrees to make the beveled cut (on the end). With the board vertical, run the end through the saw (I use the tenon jig since the board will be vertical) making sure the cut starts 7/16ths of an inch from the inside edge and the top of the blade 5/8ths of an inch high. Make the beveled cut on both ends of the board. You can then rip the side bars to width (1-1/16th inch) and go back to complete Steps 11 and 12. I realize that this is hard to follow, but if you look at the plans and work you way through the steps above, you can make the beveled ends with a table saw. And do 3 or 4 to bars (or more depending on the width of the 1x stock you use) at one time. As for ripping the side bar... It is very important to keep the width at 3/8ths of an inch... exactly. So cutting the stock with the blade 3/8ths of an inch from the fence is a way to accomplish this accuracy (and with precision). You are right that this type of cut is subject to kick back. So stand aside when doing so! Using the combo square and drill bit technique to keep the 3/8th in cut on the outside of the blade (and thus avoiding all kick back) also works, but takes a bit more time. Thanks for your comments.
Great Video!! I now feel comfortable making my own frames. I do have a dado blade question. When your making the side bars you make two passes with your dado blades then on the 3rd dado pass you are removing the waste. What is the width of the dado cut you are using? The table saw I will be using can only make a maximum of a 1/2" dado cut.
Same here, as far as the width goes. I often go with a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch width cut. I find it easier to make narrower dado cuts, even though it may take a bit more time. If your saw can handle a wider cut, then go for it.
Hello, my name is Brad Oliphant, and I have a question for you. Next year, in NYC, I will be a single hive owner, and am wanting to attempt to mimic a Layens hive by connecting two langstroth hives. If I were to screw two frames together, a deep frame and a shallow frame, then clipping off the sides of the lower shallow frame, would this work out for me? And of course, I would fix together a deep and a shallow box for them to go in. Thank you for your help.
Greetings from Puerto Rico, I enjoy seeing your videos, they are very instructive. I was wondering if you could share with me some unasamble frames and beehive if possible, I will be more than willing to pay for shipping fees and I will be more appreciative if you can. Please let me know if you can. Respectfully, Wilberto
I like your ideas in your wood working but for cutting your top notch in the side bars . It looked like there was A LOT of in needed measuring an cutting that was not needed . You had to many measurements changes an steps WHY not just take your 2”x 6”x ?’ Long board an run it thru a plain to get your correct size . Then put a stack set blades in your saw an do ONE CUT . Then while you have your stack blade set on you can cut your bevel or your bottom part of your side bar . To make those cuts all is needed is to just lower your blade an then you can start cutting each of your side bars an no ban saw is needed . Just a thought. Thanks
There are many different ways to work with wood. That is one reason why it is so satisfying. I didn't use a plane because it is not that common of a tool in a hobbyist's workshop. And I don't have one. If you can see a different way to the end results then go for it.
I make these frames out of #2 pine. Commercial frames are made from pine too. In my experience, bees will nest in just above anything you use. Stay well away from treated wood, however.
Good video instruction. Will save me work and accuracy will be better...but, at 70 cents a frame from online, is it worth it? I'd just have to nail the parts together.
Frames are relatively cheap to purchase. Still, the idea of making your own has its attractions. Also, you can make frames that are otherwise not available or hard to find... such as the mini-frame for a mini-nuc.
I can't direct you to a plan for the tennon jig. The jig, however, is pretty simple to make. It consists of two vertical pieces on either side of the saw's rip guide fence. And two smaller cross pieces; one across the top and another just above the fence. The trick is to get the two cross pieces the right width so that the jig slides snugly along the fence with no wobble. If in doubt, make the jig a wee bit to snug (emphasis on "wee") and then use sandpaper along the vertical piece that slides along the fence. You can also lubricate the jig with bee's wax to make the jig slide smoother and easier.
Why don't you download the plans (www.michiganbees.org and search for "beekeeper's workshop") which has all the dimensions. It would be easy to convert them to metric.
That "yellow" stuff is wax foundation. The picture is actually a bit "yellower" than it actually is in real life. The video describes a wedge type frame which holds the foundation by means of a small strip if wood nailed to the bottom part of the frame. As described in part two of this video series.
9:28 Dimensions of the lumber changes for the top and the bottom. Overall Width on top is 1 and 3/8" Overall width on bottom is 1 and 1/8" The width of the cuts changes with respect to that. The reason, I'd guess, is strength needed at the top and greater space at the bottom so they don't bond the frames together where you can't pry them apart.
The geometry of a honey comb cell is a bit more complicated than a simple hexagonal pattern. I looked into this in some detail when modelling a cell for my 3D printer. There is a very long name for the shape, but it involves the base (back) of the cell. It is not flat but something more along the line of a rhomboid. Basically, three planes angle back to a center point. That point forms a cell wall boundary on the honey comb cell on the opposite side of the comb. (Remember that honey comb has cells on both sides.) If you examine honey comb or commercial foundation, either wax or plastic, you can see this geometry on the bottom of the cells. I, too, was looking for a roller with which to make wax foundation. I came to the conclusion that the cost of such a complicated, precision tool would far exceed the cost of all the foundation I would purchase in several lifetimes.
Hiya its my first time making spare parts for my friends hive and I am a machinist. Since the wooden frames have to be under such stress usage can I sub it by making it out of aluminium instead? Thanks
This is shown at the end in the credits. The video was created by Steve Tilmann. No closed caption available. Plans available (also shown in credits at end of video) are available from www.michiganbees.org. Search for "workshop" or go to the "Beekeeping" tab.
In a word... yes. All the rest of the hive components have some room for measurement errors. The frames are different in this respect. It is far easier to have the frames be built to spec than struggle later when things don't fit right. That is why we give some tips on how to set up your saw down to a 32nd of an inch. Take your time. Measure twice and you won't be dissapointed in the results.
A couple of reasons. One, for most of the grooves and rabbets I use when making beekeeping equipment a dado blade is much easier and faster. Two, not as many people have a router (as compared to a table saw). And I am trying to hit the middle mark. That said, both can do the job, so use whatever you feel comfortable with. For me, I am personally more comfortable with a dado blade than a router.
can anyone tell me what the measurements are for the plastic foundation.. the reason is i goofed up on some of the side bar measurements .i need to know if they will fit or do start over.. i feel bad enough try not to make it too bad to criticize
For deep frames, the plastic foundation from Dadant is 8-3/8" by 16-3/4". Compare to was foundation which is 8-1/2" by 16-3/4". The 1/8th inch difference in height probably won't make a difference. Best to get some and try it out. Personally, I like the plastic foundation. It is stronger than the wax foundation and doesn't come apart when spinning out the honey. Some beekeepers claim the bees don't draw out the plastic foundation as well as the wax. However, I have not noticed this to be a problem.
Do you have information on installing the foundation on these homemade frames? How simple is it? Some bought ones have slots and such. Please help a newbie.
Johnny R foundation installs exactly the same as commercial frames. I use the "wedge" style option when building the frames since I also use wax foundation. Let me know if I have answered your question.
I went back and watched again and saw how you did it. You have not only have me fascinated with beekeeping but I got my table saw out and made a tenon jig yesterday. Thanks for your excellent videos.
No doubt. A lot of hobby woodworkers don't have a planer, including me. There are times when having such a tool speeds up the job and gives great results. I have purposely tried to work with the tools commonly found in a hobbyist shop. If you have a planer, then you undoubtedly have the skills to use it in our projects to make things go smoother and quicker.
Lots of people think making frames is hard... and it probably is the most challenging of all the components of a bee hive to make. However, if you break it down, step by step, it really is not all that difficult. The trick is to make very accurate cuts. That is why I spend the time in showing you how to do that. And, like almost all aspects of beekeeping, making a good frame is very, very satisfying. Steve
