Outstanding! I've just Simi mastered making pocket joints, this much simpler. I'd tweak a few things though. Just because I'm a old man that always has to change something. Really enjoyed the music too. 🎶 Now off to try it out.
I plan to get a cheap table saw for under $100 and do the same for a router to start off. Could i show you what I'm lookin at and you tell me if it'll work? Please...
Other being cheaper, is that the only reason a person should build their own. What is the difference with building and store bought. Is there a difference in the thickness of the wood, do the ones built by hand last longer. An with the measurements you are using can the built ones also be used with your traditional store bought. I'm just so curious and yet excited to get started building my own. I'm poor and cheap lmao. I'm not going to buy any bees I am going to try and catch wild swarms. Ain't no way am I going to pay for bees when I can catch wild ones for free. Also do you have a set of printable blueprints we can print out for the measurements of the hive boxes. I went to the link in the description and it was nothing available.
I suppose folks will have other reasons but other than being a fraction of the price of manufactured hives, I like the feeling of accomplishment knowing I built those tiny high-rise apartments my self. As far as lasting longer it's all in how you treat the wood (paint, stain, hot wax dip, ect) as to how long they will last, bought or handmade makes no difference. I use universal measurements so if I happen to buy manufactured equipment like queen excluders or pollen traps, they will fit my hives. Thank you for letting me know about my link. I'll get it changed. Here is another you can use. bee-health.extension.org/wooden-components-of-a-modern-bee-hive/ Thanks and happy building!
@@MasterOfNone84 thanks so much for getting back with me. One more qu ee's action and I will be out of your way. Lol. You mentioned sealant, curious which product do you prefer to use for sealing the wood?
@@Sabrina-rn9dn I use rubberized roof paint right now. I'm experimenting with EcoWood Treatment a little but would love to eventually go to hot wax dipping my boxes. It basically replaces the moister in the wood with paraffin wax. Makes them last a very long time.
The 9 5/8" measurement for the depth, is BEFORE you cut the inside edge and not that measurement right? I want to make sure I don't screw up and put the wrong one, before I cut.
Yes, that's correct. After you dado the top, the frame will set in nicely. The frame will probably set just a 1/16" low unless you put a frame rest on the ledge. But the bees wont care either way.
Biggy, yes there is a small amount of room I've accounted for to put a frame rest or spacer on the lip. It will also hang when on top of another hive body.
the Dado on the top should have been 5/8" instead of the 3/4" that was used. This allows for bee space as well. But there will be room on top of another box or the bottom board.
I dont see why you couldn't use them for your full sized boxes. I feel a solid board is a little more durable than a laminated one in a long term situation being out in the elements. Nucs are somewhat temporary. But that's just my opinion. Plus with laminated boards I would want to paint every inch to try and stop water from getting in the board in any way and I don't like painting the inside of my hives.
@@ahorsley1027 you can't make top bars from them because they are weak and will bow out under weight of combs. And it's hard to seal the plywood organically or bee-friendly from weather. Also plywood is probably too weak to have several deeps stacked on top of each other full of combs, bees, frames, honey etc. All around not a great idea to build entire hive out of plywood. Can use it for the bottom board and roof board if you cover the roof board with metal or something.
To bad there was no instructions. Just music. No Dimensions ect ect. Just some guy cutting boards and playing with his saw Title of video was how to build a beehive. Langstroth deep body
