BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO RELOADING 300 BLACKOUT 

6 years later this is a great video. Well thought out and easy to understand. I am going to start loading 300 blackouts and you have helped me have a good picture of what I need to know. Thanks

Just an observation - you should chamfer and deburr after cutting cases and before forming the neck. You dont want any chips in your sizing die.

I recently did my first batch of 300 reloads. It's so much fun. Almost therapeutic. Stay safe & Stay ready! :)

For a beginner, you are doing a fine job. I have been reloading for over 40 years on single stage, turret and Dillon and could not find a thing wrong with what you are doing. Primer pocket and case brushing, not needed every reload, only when buildup is noted and the tumbler will usually handle it. And safety first is a great mode. I was a little hesitant about making my own Blackout brass, but your method seemed a snap. I may give it a try, as I must have more than a couple thousand rounds of brass. Very good job BullitMcQueen. Keep it up.

Thank you for posting this! I've never looked into reloading until I bought a 300 blackout. Very good job of dumbing things down for a beginner and making it less scary.

The last few years has brought in much information for reloading US's 7.62x39, especially in the realm of subsonic and suppressed loads. And, if you're new to reloading, these types of vids are invaluable, basic safety and common sense. I've been at this hobby now 30 years, yet getting into 300AAC make it all new and exciting. Good video, appreciate all the great information.

I started reloading because the affordable 300 blkout was not in any where I looked. So I had already bought a lee single stage press with all the goodies and then started buying dies for the weapons that I own. The hardest one to find was and still is the 300 black out dies. But I found a set of Foresters while I was trucking thru Tennessee at the Out post armory. I have watched several videos on reloading and talked to several people who have been reloading for years. I have been given several thousand 223/5.56 brass cases that I can use as 5.56/223 or 300 blackout. So I have been busy with several different bullet weights and powder weights for both calibers. You do a great intro video which will help anyone who wants to save .25 cents a round or more on ammo.

I am an experienced reloader reloading 308 for accuracy and i find your video most informative and enlightening. I have seven AR 15's five of which i built myself. I recently purchased a 300 Blackout upper and want to explore the plethora of options available for this round. I love you using the term "throwing charges" which tells me you are NOT so new to this as you make out LOL Well Done.

beginners ...good advice starting on a single stage...or even a manual turret...reloading rifle has too many steps and leaves room for error esp with powder charges. This is how I taught my son.

I have been reloading for 40 years and you did a great job of explaining the basics to your audience. You are correct to stress the safety aspect and I am the same way. I understood everything you said, but it was the basics so all you out there, these steps take time and patience so read your manuals on setting each die, scale, powder thrower, and cutting and chamfering. The equipment is only as good as YOU set it.

2021, and I'm reloading my 300AAC for about 30-35 cents a round for jacketed bullets. As soon as I start molding and PC'ing my bullets, as I'm scrounging my lead, will bring the price down to around 20 cents. And, that was after investing in store bought brass instead of cutting down 5.56 range brass and dealing with the possible neck size problems, case length issues, etc.. I'm having a blast reloading 300AAC, and getting some real accurate results with my supersonic loads, out to 250-300 yards, using 110-130gr hollow points and polymer tjpped stuff. Why buy ammo from gougers, when you can make better, less expensive ammo yourselves? And

Every time I watch a video on reloading, I'm always, like, WOW!!! that's a ton of work and equipment for something that can destroy you if you do it wrong. They always spend about 5 minutes on each bullet between picking it up off the dirt, cleaning it, resizing, checking size, add cleaning agent, polishing, lubricating, fitting, checking size again, deburring, clean lube off, recutting, priming, checking primer, powder (check the weight of each charge by hand), bullet loading/crimping, final check/exam. I'm like I'll just buy the damn bullets. And if you get cross eyed and do just one of these steps wrong, you're blown.

Excellent video....I have been loading for over 20 years and I still have not gone to a progressive type press. As said in comments, this is a relaxing hobby and the time I spend is not rushed. I still take the time to weigh each charge of powder...some will scoff at that, but each to their own. When I first started, it was for target loads, so considerable time was spent figuring out the "perfect" OAL for the gun and distance from the rifling for seating. Some 0000 steel wool and makeshift holders for your drill and or just hand hold polishing of the brass after chamfering adds icing to the cake. I still like hand priming due to "feeling" it bottom out in the case. These days, I have stayed with loading my hunting rounds in .308 and .243 primarily, so not so much time is spent being perfect....not to be confused with short change safety measures!!! I just bought an AR and a Ruger 300 blk in the bolt action American, so I am venturing into the .223 and 300 blk. I will probably work up a load for the 300 that is as precise as the gun will let me......

Yeah I just recently brought a 300 blackout upper and I'm definitely about to get into reloading. great video. thanks !

This was the perfect video man; I'm in the process of getting all the gear and info put together to start doing this my self, very informative and thought out. This helped me out a ton!

Thanks for the information! I don’t shoot my rifle as much as I’d like and have been looking into reloading - this was EXACTLY what I needed to assess what I would need to get into this. Thanks again and safe shooting!

I had the exact same decisions to make: Single VS Progressive; well KNOWING I was going to pursue this as a very serious hobby (and the press, components, etc would eventually be handed down to my son..early 30’s & also a shooter), it didn’t make sense to me to buy a single KNOWING I would advance later TO a different/progressive press. So, I jumped in with BOTH feet and purchased a Dillon RL550. BEST decision I’ve made before I even started. I’ve never understood what the big deal is because you CAN USE THE DILLON (or any for that matter) AS A SINGLE STAGE. The MAIN thing is take it slow, pay VERY close attention ‘cause things can bite you very fast..!

Great video. I just bought a .300 AAC and I want to start reloading. Thankfully I have an older brother that has been reloading for years and years (last count I think he had 4 progressive loaders). He's also buying a .300 upper for his AR. You made a really good video, thanks!

Thanks a ton for your straight forward insight into reloading the 300 BLK. Though I am not new to shooting or hunting, I am to reloading. Oddly enough I started partly looking into reloading for the same reason. The other reason was the ammo that feeds, cycles, and shoots out of my rifle was all over the map for being in stock. Again I appreciate you taking the time to layout the basics in a practical manner.

You said low end of 15 gr. powder? I’m looking at my Hornady book 10th edition. According to my book the low end for WIN 296 and the 150 gr. FMJ-BT is 12.7gr and high is 16.0gr.

Excellent video. Just wish I could find any of these items. I bought a 750xl dillon kit about 6 months ago and have not found a single item of reloading material including powder, brass, bullets etc. It's all just gone and the stores say the same people come buy it all weekly just to stockpile it or sell it on gunbroker for a drastically higher price.

The main great thing I love about reloading is that you can maximize the accuracy of you rifles. Each rifle love certain powders, bullet weight, and powder amount.Great case lube: (1 part pure lanoline) to (12 parts 99% isopropyl Alcohol). Both from amazon. Also is safe for hands/non toxic.

Great vid! Im about to start reloading my 300 ammo and this was a great refresher vid.

Full length sizing die unless you found a forming die that also happens to have a decapper. Also, if you didnt tumble your cases first, you run the risk of scratching the inside of your dies.

Thank you for putting this video together. Excellent presentation and subject matter. As a new reloaded myself this has helped me get a foothold on where to begin. Please keep the vids coming.

Skimmed thru the comments and couldn't see where anyone had mentioned it so I will. A very important and inexpensive component in your reloading is a case gauge. I highly recommend your getting one and using it for every round you make including AFTER you seat the bullet. Why? Because the wall thickness varies with the brass and since some is thicker than others it may result in a round not seating in the chamber of your rifle. Yeah, a headache. Very good move, running your finger over the primer once it's seated. A high primer in a rifle with a free floating firing pin is just as subject to a slam fire as a primer that is too soft. And, yes, I also recommend the CC#41. But if you feel good about the Winchester primer, so be it. Yes, I know many people use the Win primers and never had any problem. One last thing for your consideration. If you're going to reuse your cases, and I'm pretty sure you will be, you might want to get a primer pocket uniforming tool and a flash hole deburring tool. These steps need be done only once per case. As you're finding out, handloading is a lot of fun and gives a lot of satisfaction. Also, it seems there's always something new to learn. I've been doing it since '72 and I'm still learning.

Great, informative video! I recently started forming 300AAC cases as well using a reloadimizer jig (though yours looks easier to use). The only recommendation I would make is ditch that god-awful Lee Case Lube and get you some Lanolin oil+99%isopropyl alcohol. I HATED having to clean that Lee gunk off my cases (not to mention brushing out inside the neck). The lanolin oil/alcohol in a cheap sprayer works MIRACLES dude, for real and its cheap AF. Keep up the good work!

Great vid. Well done. Beginners MOST definitely need to read read read before you start. Get as many points of view as possible (just because it is on the internet doesn't make it true). Some guys will talk your ear off and not say anything worth listening to. Go with basic equipment like you have, if you upgrade you always have them for back up. Plan out where you are going to have your reloading station and storage of powder and primers. Some states have regs for how much you can store and where and in what. Just getting into 300 blackout myself. A little apprehensive about it some loads are compression loads and I never messed with that before. Cheers.

Good Job. After seeing some of the comments you got, thought I would chime in. You are doing everything right. Just make sure your cases are trimmed somewhere between 1.368 (Max) and 1.348 (Min). I usually settle on 1.358 - 1.360. They work every time.

If you set up your jig just right, you won't have to trim your cases to length after reforming. Also, I would suggest you debur your cut brass before you run it through your depriming/resizing die.

As a 'advanced' reloader and among the first on the 300 AAC bandwagon craze I wanted to say this is a great video on the subject. I agree anyone could load/reload 300 AAC for virtually the same price or less of 5.56x45/223 (30 caliber projectiles are even easier to find and hardcast for subsonic even cheaper). Personally I like the black brass on Gunbroker but then again I'm 'invested' in that.

Very Good video. I have watched this a few times before I started reloading and then again after I started reloading 300 blk. Learned several things from it. Not sure why some people feel the need to be a negative Nancy because they do something a little different than you. Thanks for the time and effort that you put in to it and the time, effort and $$$ that it has saved me.

I have loaded over a million rounds in my 30 yrs of reloading , and have reverted back to lee . Nice to see you are doing the same thing for the Blackout... good job !!!!.

should be annealing the brass when forming from 233 to 300

Proablem in 2022 is there isnt much savings in reloading anymore, I usually get steel case 300 BLK for $0.50-0.60, and subsonic 220g 300 BLK for $1 per round. When I look into reloading every place wants $0.50 for a 300 BLK bullet, then when you add in the coast of primers, powder, and your time I would only be saving pennies.

That’s tumbler is an amazing machine that does a wonderful job for the price. Don’t let anyone tell you that you have to wet tumble. That tumbler does all you need

I would suggest new (or even seasoned) reloaders need a reloading manuel. Lee makes a good one but there are others. Manuels will fill in possible knowledge gaps such as how to look for pressure issues and cartridge lengths.

Thanks for making and posting this video. Just dove into shooting 300AAC and this was a huge help in getting organized to dive into reloading. You're the man!

I cut down my .223 cases to make 300aac cases and it makes things very cheap. Also use left over .308 projectiles that i found wasnt where i wanted to be with my .308.. works out great but anymore 300aac isnt really all that expensive to shoot

When converting .223 or 5.56 to 300 Blackout, you have to be careful what cases you are using. Some cases have too thick of a wall, and when you try to seat bullets in those cases it will bulge out the case and deform the finished cartridge. It is possible to get a trimmer to trim the case wall thickness. There are some charts available showing the typical wall thickness of .223 and 5.56 cases by the head-stamp information. I also recommend getting a gauge to check the finished cartridge, especially if you intend in shooting them in an AR-15 platform. Here is a link to a list of good brass: www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=88599 I use an RCBS Case Neck Turner to trim the wall of the cases that need it.

This video got me into reloading the 300. Thanks

Reloading saves you a ton of money. Just doing a basic comparison factory new .300 aac is at cheapest 0.50 a round and factory reloads is 0.45. With my powder coated cast 230gn hp, my rounds are 0.113 per completed round. That’s .034 per primer, .058 per charge of powder (12 gn of h4198) and .021 per bullet which was calculated by the scrap lead I got off eBay for 8.99 for 14 lbs of scrap lead.

You didn't even have the breech lock bushing in the press correctly! The u notch goes in the black button. But good camera work clean vid for a newb 👍

I currently reload .223 ammo and am seriously considering getting a 300 blackout pistol. I appreciate the video and will bookmark this for future use. Thanks and stay safe.

Thank you, this was an awesome and informative video. My wife is finally letting me get my first AR and I've been hearing a lot of good thing about the 300 blackout so I hope to work toward that caliber option in addition to the 5.56. I'll definitely be saving my brass for when I can reload both cartridges.

Very well put together video. I just started reloading myself and bought Lee progressive off of amazon. But I already am hand primming and using a lee perfect powder measure like you have. I learned a hard lesson in checking each round once loaded. I had a bullet lodge in the barrel then fired another one right behind it. Barrel stayed together but it bulged at the gas block where the first bullet stopped. Only real damage was my hearing, I was shooting suppressed so no hearing protection. It seems I had a lite powder charge in the first round. Now I weigh every round to make sure they are the same.

I appreciate the time you spent making this video, it is professional, and you have done a great job at conveying safety. You have a new sub!

Nice instructional video and it's fun to see folks with interesting hobbies... and saving money. It's a therapeutic, semi-mindless activity once you get it down and even stress reducing. Cool.

Good video, ran that trimmer way TOO Loong. W296 is EXACTLY the same as H110 Garage door should be closed when using a scale of any kind.

Thank you for your post. I really enjoyed and appreciated it. Will be loading my own rounds soon.

Thanks for the video. A trick an old timer showed me was to get a spray bottle, dump 16oz of rubbing alcohol into it and then cut the bottom off the tube of Lee lube and dump it in. Shake it up and you have and you have an inexpensive, easy to apply spray lube.

Much obliged sir. Good videos -Concise and to the point decent camera angles and purely informative, keep it up and thank you!

Great presentation and explanation in a short but informative video for us newbies. I am now subscribed to the channel. Thanks again!

I thought " oh no another rookie video", but this a really good video. Like you the biggest reason to push me toward reloading is the 300 Blackout. I am thinking about a turret press and using it in single mode til I get the hang of it.

I just started, but I'm just stopped as well. I use headspace gauges and for some reason, some are in spec and others are a bit out with headspace.

You give a lot of great information. I agree with checking and rechecking you lengths and amount of powder at each step. Great video.

Once you cut 223 and use it for 300, about how many times about could you reload the brass?

Great video!! My input: I would certainly deburr (inside and out) right after cutting the 5.56/.223 brass. It's much easier on your sizing die and the brass. Make sure your scale is on a different table than your worktable. You can get the Hornady 150gr FMJBT in a 250ct from Midsouth Shooters for about 19.5 cents each. You can buy a BULK pack of 2100 for about 17.5 cents each. Powder Valley HAS (in stock) the 2018 AMax bullets for $31.xx / 100 ( 31 cents each with a pretty good shipping rate) I would recommend IMR 4227 for the Horandy 150gr FMJBT ;)

Thank you. Very well put. Love reloading 300 too. Have a good day

I am completely new to reloading. Which is even better I am starting on 300 aac blackout. Can you shoot a video on what kind of gun powders and Primers you can you and the difference between a AR15 primer and power compared to .338 power and primer?

Excellent Video. Great production quality and easily followed. Thank you sir.

Three, Three primed cases (thunder and lightning) AH, AH, AH!

Hi Mac I noticed that you didn't factory crimp. Is that not necessary?

Thank you for this video. As you were walking through all of the tools I was able to just google each one and that helped tremendously to see the bigger picture on everything I need to get started 🤘

Not a bad video from a beginners perspective....HOWEVER... One REALLY IMPORTANT thing which was omitted is that since the 300AAC headspaces on the shoulder of the cartridge it is imperative that you use a case gauge (especially since you are forming cases for .223 casings). These gauges are available for only around $25 and you can quickly determine whether a casing is properly sized & properly trimmed. Using calipers alone cannot properly measure the shoulder dimensions & getting a casing with the shoulder improperly formed or in the wrong location can result in a stuck live round in the chamber or worse. I've been reloading for decades & ALWAYS get a case gauge for each caliber I load...IT'S CHEAP INSURANCE!

I only skimmed the comments but there was something I wanted to point out about your primers. I hope that you are not shooting those rounds out of the AR platform, or any free floating firing pin platform with those #400 primers. Those specific primers will work fine for a while and you may never have it happen, but they are designed for bolt action or single shot. They are classified as soft primers. You should be using CCI #41 small rifle primers for anything that will be fired in the AR platform. The #41's are a harder primer and won't be set of by light pin strikes. Just for giggle, put a primer in some brass with no powder or projectile. Then lock the bolt back on your AR platform weapon. Place the primed brass into the breach and let the bolt slam home. DO NOT fire the weapon. Cycle the bolt back and extract the brass. Note the dimple in the primer. I made the mistake of loading a 10 round batch of 223 using those primers. Now you know I had some fancy polished nickel boron plated heavy firing pin that I promptly stopped using, but the end result was the first few shot well, then I had a light pin strike set off an extra round. I didn't think too much of it at first, but every couple shots I would get an extra bang. I went home and did some research and made a 50 round batch with those primers and sure enough I could reproduce it regularly. Be safe with all your future endeavors, and make sure you understand the weapon you are loading for.

Thank you. Just getting started.

From advanced to beginner you are doing good, but I am precise on powder and the LEE scale that came with my kit is not accurate whatsoever.

what is the part number to the starting kit you purchased?

Looks like the 300 blackout talk forum is down. Where else can I buy the jig from?

You said you are using these right Hornady Bullets 30 Caliber (308 Diameter) 150 Grain Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail with Cannelure? If so are you going by the hornady book for the COAL or you seating them to the cannelure. I been reloading about 2 years. I recently bought those bullets and just loaded a test load with h110 which is mostly the same as win296 but I didnt not seat them to the cannelure. I did what the book stated to do.

Fast forward 4 / 2022 primers are $ 0.10 to $ 0.15 if you can find them but still cheaper to reload

a case gauge would be a much better tool to verify the cases are correctly formed. I typically case gauge my cases 3 times from start to finish of the loading process

One thing you didn't mention was checking neck wall thickness after forming. Some 223 brass is a lot thicker and leaves a dangerously thick neck wall that could cause injury or damage upon firing since the neck will will not release the bullet. Other than that your video was well done.

You said the brass is free if you pick it up from the range...and that's only true to an extent. There's a shit ton of labor involved, so that's your time. What's your time worth to ya? When using 5.56 brass to make your own 300 Blackout brass, be prepared for mongo amounts of labor. I just finished 1000 rounds and WOW, was it a lot of work. 1. Cut it 2. debur (this keeps any particles from getting jammed up inside your die. It's no big deal and many people skip this step..until there's enough shavings/particles wedged up in your die to start denting all subsequent brass that you run through it (ask me how I know) 3. Form/size it (de-prime at same time) 4. Clean primer pocket 5. Trim to length 6. Chamfor 7. Debur Do that process, per case....1000x and whooooa momma, it'll have you rethink'n the whole concept of making your own 300 Blackout brass. Hell, I went out and purchased a RCBS Universal Case Prep Center $425.00, just to cut down on the prep labor.

How do you determine the appropriate depth for your case forming die

Thank you very much, I'm about to start reading my self for the first time and this video was great and very detailed.. subscribed Thanks

Hope all is well Mac. Just so you know, after all these years Im just now starting to reload for real. Ive played around and reloaded before but only a few rounds here and there. I have a lot more equipment and knowledge now.

Why would I want to learn from someone who is doing this for the first time?

Thank you!

So if you buy 300 black out at the store already cut you skip some steps such as the transforming 223 to 300?

Good video and nice info! Would like to see time invested in 1 round and for 20 (common box quantity) reloading has always intrigued me, just not sure if its worth the time

I'm gearing up with much of the same equipment. I think I see a mistake. when you clock in th Lee quick change bushing, the dimple should end up at the six o'clock position allowing the detent to rise up and lock the bushing in place like an ar front sight post.

To help save on cost buy some bulk lanolin oil dilute with ipa and use that for case lube. Best lube out there and way cheaper then 'one stuck' or lee. You can thank me later!

Could you share what was the cost for initial start up buying equipment. And how has it been finding powder bullets casings and primers in the firearms and ammo shortage

Do you crimp your 300 Blackout rounds? If so, could you post another video showing your process? If you don't crimp, can you explain why you don't?

You should lube the ram on the press with some grease or you will shortly find it starting to get wobbly.

wouldn't you want to stretch and reform before you put it in the trimmer? I am completely new to reloading so I dont know the answer, but it would seem like to make sure the neck is in the right place every time would be to stretch and reform it first then cut it to the exact length you want no?

how do you work your way up? like if you start at 15 gr., in what increments do you go up and why? also what are you trying to achieve by working your way up? how do you know when to stop working up?

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your information and experience!

Great video! Quick question, do you anneal your cases? I've read in forums that when forming 300 Blackout cases you should anneal them since you cut off the section that was annealed at the factory.

Hey bud, it’s 2021 and the price and availability of ammo is high and scarce.....I toyed with the idea of reloading a few years ago just to know ho to do it, and I should have got my feet wet then. Today it’s hard to find dies, primers, powder and whole kits to get started.....I have the Brass, at least I saved from going to the range....what if any sites can you suggest for me to know exactly what dies I need to reload my own fired brass...any info on any of this would be appreciated and helpful..Thanx for a good video, God bless you and your family and God Bless America....I fear we will be facing hard times ahead.....thanks again.

Very informative as always Mac! I really enjoy all of your videos, I have learned a lot from you. Keep them coming please! Thanks, PJ

Good intro and vid to reloading. One correction, the item you referred to as a 'micrometer' is in fact a digital caliper. Micrometers have a much smaller range of measurement, tend to be more precise and expensive.

If you’re reloading because you enjoy it and you get to be in Zen mode... that’s great.. I just can’t see how you’re saving money with all the time you spend on this. Maybe I’m wrong. Help me understand how this is such a big savings when you factor in the time you spend

Thanks for the information I am about to get a sig mcx in 556 but I am toying with the 300 blackout I can always convert it but if I can reload 300 blackout for the same or less price of 223 than I rather have the blackout to start with.

I'm not saying it's impossible to mess this up but it is nearly impossible to mess this up....... even with 300 blackout your top loads are at 100% case capacity and even compressed loads..... so if you ever find yourself beating the powder down to condense it you might want to reevaluate that particular loading and if you don't find a need to violently condense your powder to fit more powder it's pretty safe to assume your load isn't going to cause catastrophic failure. Also I know this videos like 8 years old but over on Kentucky ballistics Scott actually tried to blow up an ar with an over pressure load and the round they made was supposed to be something stupid like 400k psi and he never confronted the fact but he had to use a barrel obstruction which would have blown the gun up even with a regular round so he obviously tried the stupid pressure round and that didn't even damage the gun enough to cause a function issue. Maybe using wrong powder but I don't even see messing up burn rate turning it into a catastrophic failure and the granulation for small arms is pretty standard accross the board it would be incredibly difficult to screw that up to the point of catastrophic failure as well. I guess you could have a worst case scenario with a combination of these things but you would have to be messing around with some unreasonable calibers like 50 bmg or I just don't see it. Oh actually the one exception would be calibers that started out as black powder like .45 colt because that case is meant 30-35 grains of black powder and if you fill that puppy up with smokeless to 100% case capacity and actually shoot it you are most certainly having a catastrophic failure.

i want to start reloading with my own. how much it cost you for that whole set up? thanks.

Times have definitely changed😂

Lol never thought I'd say this but 1 dollar a round for 300 sounds nice right now. Just bought 100 rds came out to about $200 I almost had a stroke.