Might I suggest a small umbrella on board? Nice for the shade, great for a bit of rain, but inverted and under whatever you are working on as a safety net…priceless!
I've seen them used that way!! My only worry is that the fabric is too tight so dropped things would bounce. Maybe an upside down umbrella with a towel over it?
IF you have to rewire the boat think about running 1 AC and 1 DC to each cabin (area) to a sub panel. makes it much cleaner and then in each room you label each light outlet and fan on the sub panel breakers.
HOWdy T-D-M, ... Yup - rotten old copper wiring is the SAME on OLD CARS & old boats ! G I'm glad you got it SORTED ! COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
If you have incandescent bulbs (usually double ended types) in interior and stern lights, you can convert to inexpensive double ended LEDs- just get the right length, power and preferred color spectrum. The forward nav lights have a regulated light arc degree, so replacing incandescent bulb with DIY LED may change the light arc degree and power and be illegal. Draw on battery for LEDs will be reduced by 70-80% compared to incandescent.
Aye, I was considering do that as well, might be a lot less expensive to do it that way. When I start planning out the new wiring I'd like to get proper LED nav lights, but there's an argument to be made to have housings with replaceable LED bulbs.
Hi Maddy, part of me cries inside when I see the shit you had to deal with... BUUUUUT then I remember that by now it's all behind you and you're safely home and meticulously planning the complete refit of the bad tempered old badstart (intentional typo). See ya next week lass, be safe Scott
I can SO relate, I have been rewiring my boat stem to stern, and Installing a complete Victron system, (2) multiplus, 2460 watts of solar, 660 ah of Lithium batteries the works. It's done my head in, and pocket book!
For wires that are retained by a threaded fastener (set screw, grub, lug screw, etc) do NOT tin them. The solder will cold flow over time and the connection will get loose. Pretinned stranded wire (individual subwires tinned, not the whole wire) is best, but honestly, some dielectric grease on the stripped end is good enough for most things. Also, the wire with the expired plastic is THHN house wire. Not marine wire.
@@TheDigitalMermaid Yeah. Just make sure the crimper you use is high quality. Ferrules rely on the cold weld produced to do their job. At work. we just spent a ton on tools and jigs to move to ferrules in production because of that exact issue (I've been yelling about it for years but ops finally listened after a field failure)
AquaSignal is one of the finest boat lighting companies. I have them too. On my former sailboat I had their expensive but very fine LED navigation lights.
Another winner winner, chicken dinner! Nicely fixed, had fun watching. Use ferrules for screw connectors on stranded leads, or just solder the damn thing together, cover the joint with enamel to prevent oxidation and you'll be fine. I still wouldn't say that these bulbs and holders are reliable by design, but you can at least remove one failure point. LED lights would probably be better. Nobody expects a failed splice. Nobody!
If it moves and it shouldn't, Duct tape!! See, I should have been there to help :( I think we have a homemade extension cord too 😅 way back in the day, I dated an electrician. He rigged a homemade cord to the light pole. When it snowed, I just knew I was going to hit that with a shovel someday and die 😂
When you get around to rewiring that stuff, if you havre room to, I would get some plasic conduit to run the wires through. It can be sealed easy to keep the from weather, sea spray and movement, etc. It may be easiest to run a pull line through the conduit befor getting it in place.
I've got a big roll of 3/4" ID flexible conduit, very similar to what Arabella used if you saw Stephen's install. I'd love to use it, but I don't think I've got enough room in my boat for it. Thankfully, there's a hidden ledge running along the coach top that the wiring runs in, so I think I'll be more or less OK doing the rewire thankfully.
That is one of the problems/charm of old, cars, motorbikes, what are we going to find , that at first is hidden. I totally Agre, all new cables is a must. But I am Pretty sure you can handel that. But I am curious to see what is hidden in the old wires.
Because of the cold flow of the solder? I know it's not great, the proper solution is to get ferrules. However as I mentioned in the video, it was a one-trip solution.
