I've been searching for days to find a video that exemplified each of the blades in different conditions. This is easily the best video. Thank you, you've helped me make an informed purchase!
I have 3 of those metal blades for my 2005 FS-55. One of the 3 is the 3-point blade . I call it my "Japanese Ginsu throwing-star blade". The only thing it can't do is tackle heavy wooded trunks. @mainstreetmower
I never thought I'd ever sit through a video about trimmer blades....then I got a trimmer and needed a blade. I got an Echo 2026 and was told I needed a blade to cut through the heavy brush on my property. The store employee recommended a particular blade and it works well on heavy thick grass and small shrubs or trees up to 3/4" diameter. But much of the area I need to clear has many trees and bushes with much thicker diameters - up to 2". That one blade that you liked looks perfect for the job, so I will definitely be heading to my local hardware store to see if they have one.
Thank you, I know this is old post/video but a good one. My vote is for # 3 & 4 , I have both blades! Good to know I will be using these in the same application or brush and small samplings that you showed in your video, this is a timeless video.
I tested some Renegade blades which are somewhat similar but maybe geared towards woody cuts. The Stihl scratcher blade is going to be best for things like brambles (multiflora rose, thin vines, blackberries, raspberries, etc.). The chisel tooth is going to be more woody growth like small trees.
Great video, but using a sweeping motion on brush and things will make the blades cut a lot better. Just holding them to the trunk and gradually adding pressure isn’t the way to go. I use the second (grass) blade for cutting fence rows. It will easily cut small trees and heavy brush when using a sweeping motion
Glad you liked the video Andrew. You can check out stihl weed eater on our website, here: www.mainstreetmower.com/collections/hedge-trimmers?sort_by=manual&filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&filter.p.product_type=Stihl+String+Trimmer
Its important to know there is a big difference between a brush cutter and a string trimmer . String trimmers are not made to use anything but string and can quickly be destroyed or damaged by using them .I see many in my shop every year
Glad you liked it Diana. . . If you enjoyed the content, please do consider subscribing to our awesome little RU-vid Channel to let RU-vid know how fun and worthy we are. That would mean the world to us. Thank you ☺
Main Street Mower Man---I realize that this Vid is concerning Stihl Blade attachments, but I like to get your thoughts about The Rino Tuff Brush Cutter if you have heard anything about that product DAMAGING Weed Wackers. Looked it up everywhere I could think of to find said info but no luck. Have heard of that issue and experienced such a problem with a new Riobi Weeder I bought.....Thanks
So what is the top pick for extremely dense and dry vines that literally form a sort of giant twisted mess. Each little dry vine is only like ….toothpick size maybe, but it takes forever with string. Forever. I don’t really need to cut wood though either, but if the chainsaw blade is also best for brush like my bed of vine weeds then I’ll use that
It sounds like that brush cutter is not much above idle when cutting. Not sure if that's because it's high horsepower? What amount of throttle is recommended with these blades? 50% 80% or full?
Question re: 'the doughnut' - when I put mine on, it doesn't precisely center. There doesn't seem to be any flange on either the nut or the washer below to lock it in the exact center and when I spin the head, I can see the dougnut wobbling a little off-center. Am I missing something? Thanks for the review!
I know what you’re saying but mine always seem to center as I tighten the nut, there is a part available that is the donut with the splined washer attached 4180 710 8500
Looking at this video I can see it will work using these blades but it's going to take a long, long time. In a field like that I think I'd just buy an old used tractor and a bushhog and have that field cleared off in an hour or so. Like as not if I have fields that size I already am going to have the tractor. We used to use an old 1939 John Deere A model with a bushhog to cut fields like that.
Goes on about safety at the start and cracks on with trainers and shorts, no ear and eye ppe doesn't use the shoulder sling and uses the wrong guard for the type of blade.
A couple of comments - if you're cutting grass with a blade then use the correct guard. The guard for metal cutting tools is not as high, which allows the rider plate (donut) to site on the grass as you're cutting, taking the weight of the machine and saving you effort. If you're cutting with the woodcut blades then use the small stop guard/limiter - it's an integral part of correct and safe cutting technique as you can hold it against the tree/sapling and simply pull the cutting blade back towards you. When using the woodcut blades there's also a smaller diameter rider plate which takes up less space below the blade, allowing you to cut a larger diameter tree. Also, given the control required and possible kickback, Stihl say that the woodcut blades should only be used on machines with bike handles/bullhorn handles (not the machine you use to demonstrate them!)
Some people, even dealers, seem to forget that the manufacture knows more about their own product than they do. I learned long, long ago how foolish, frustrating and potentially dangerous it is to ignore user instructions for so, so many consumer products.
Duncan, thank you this information. Do you know a part her number for the small stop guard limiter and the smaller rider plate for the woodcutting blades. I would like to get these if possible. Great comments.
You use the blades more like a scythe in grass, sweep across in one direction only forming a windrow as you move along, do not cut on the return stroke as it will be a 'climbing cut' which pulls the blade into the grass but tends not to cut nearly as cleanly and instead clumps up and overloads. I have used all of these and several others besides. I favour the tri arm over most for general heavy grasses and light brush. The sawblade types are great on large scrub and saplings - but you will go a lot faster with a chainsaw once you go past about one inch of trunk thickness. The best all round trimming blade type I've used are two blades on links that handle finding hard things in mid cut but also offer great precision - but twice the price of the brush blade so yeah. Just had a look on my blade bucket and seem to have several each of the three and a four blade Kawasaki design. You definitely need the bigger straight shaft models for these blades, they really like being powered up at all times, and the smaller engines will just tend to get over powered most of the time if you start getting into it properly. Most of the time if you actually need a saw blade it's worth getting either a large hedge trimmer or a chainsaw depending on the situation. Worse thing about using the metal blades is finding water and electrical conduit pipes or fences in thick growth, not so much about damaging the blades as almost always damaging the pipe or fence, sometimes very badly... Found the twisted wire brush type 'blade' very useful for cleaning out weeds along pavements and at the foot of masonry walls etc - but watch out for getting bits of wire stabbed into you sometimes surprisingly deeply too. Don't ever use the wire brush type near other people, kids or pets, that's for sure...
Nope! You missed the absolute best one from the lineup. Stihl Shredder blade, also called brush blender by some. Its a two or three blade configuration with the tips turned down. Oregon makes a good one also. Either aftermarket or Stihl versions are superior to those other blades. Grass, brush, small trees are all turned to mulch. I use it on a FS 460. Once I used it I never put any of those other blades back on.
Take a look at the Renegade Hybrid blade....it's by far the best blade I've ever used on my string trimmer, We did a video recently to show how well it cuts in grass and in brush.
As a woman who is just learning how to cut grass, brush, and tree stumps around my mom's yard with this kind of tool, this video was very educational. I appreciate the demos with the explanations of each blade. Awesome!
Quiero aprender el uso correcto del blade; y seguro para cortar el césped en las yardas de mi casa; para que esten presentables todo el tiempo, pues la casa es el santuario del ser humano. Gracias!
OK, that's really interesting. I was wondering why my Honda with blade number 1 wouldn't cut my Lantana. Now I know, not's not the Honda's fault, it's the wrong blade.
Thanks for this, now I know which blades I actually need. I bought the Kombi 131 a couple weeks ago and found it pretty frustrating that the “brush cutter” attachment came with blade number 1 and it was no better than a string trimmer.
You should use at least eye protection, it takes a second to lose an eye. I also have fs 131 and use similar to blade 3 brush cutter for grass but nonbrand and much larger 350mm diameter, without a guard (I never run it without eye protection, not matter how small the job is). I touch up the blade so it is sharp using angle grinder after every fillup, it takes a minute and a big difference in performance. The blade will be grinded down in one or two seasons, but it cuts way better, keep in mind blade is consumable the same as string or chain on chainsaw.
Hate to be the safety police, but You might as well have skipped your safety attire and best practices section. "this ear muff and visor combo is a must. i am going to be wearing that". "safety boots, wearing pants, limit guard ". you went for the grand slam and didn;t do any of those. As a dealer for these kinds of products, you would increase your integrity if you practice what you preach especially if you are going to make a YT video. Other comments below make you look like you don't know how to use your products correctly.
Wanna know about the best TRIMMER HEAD options for String Trimmers? We have another video on it. You can check it out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nIr2t-bIj4k.html Check out our entire crazy, experimental, and educational playlist on everything you need to know about trimmers, lines, & Blades. Here's the link: ru-vid.com/group/PLcMsWbmgR9r94lsdsEgyWTmoqFc03VClx
Very informative video. I have often wondered just how they would perform. You did a very good job. Now with that being said allow me to say that NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO ,PLEASE USE SAFTY GLASSES AT THE LEAST. I HAVE DONE IT MYSELF AND YES I HAVE COME VERY CLOSE TO LOSING MY VISION DOIND THE EXACT SAME THING YOU JUST DID. PLEASE!!! PLEASE!!! PLEASE!!! WEAR EYE PROTECTION.. THERES ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORTH MORE THAN YOUR VISION AND BELIEVE ME IT WILL HAPPEN AND WILL HAPPEN BEFORE YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENED AND THERES NOTHING YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT THEN,SO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING.. BE SAFE AND GOOD LUCK..
really fantastic demo and review - super helpful - I had no idea that you could cut wood of that diameter with a blade on a string trimmer - thanks for taking the time for this!
amazing not wearing any protection on the legs. That's not OK. Safety always in first place. I recommend the following - at least a good jeans, full length or better - safety shoes (with steel cap) - shirt and long arms protection maybe soft jacket - ear protection, face metal shield maybe helmet - gloves -> leather or anything else If you are working alone I am wearing this and if you are working with someone else in a team i recommend arm, body and leg protection due to flying particles such as stones. These machines can bruise you i know for sure, that is not funny. And be aware of the power of the cutting blades if one bounce of at high speed and somebody else is next to you it will cut down through the flesh to the bone. I do know for sure. So easiest way to protect yourself wear some protection clothes.
The last blade, it’s not a chain saw so you don’t use it like one.Swing it not like a sledge hammer but bout like you would putt a golf ball is the proper way( just little harder than a putt)to use it. It’s burning because it’s not proper use.
Get yourself a Oregon 295504-0 mulching blade it is by far the best blade I have ever used. It will destroy briar bushes and small saplings like a 45HP Bushhog!!!
Your not the safest operator. Good to test all but to operate without safety glasses, no pants, not the proper guard and no handle bars. Stihl recommends handlebars instead of Loop handle when operating blades. You have to remember when you show people unsafe acts aren’t responsible for them as well? Also to cut above your head, unwise!!😮
I’ve tried a lot of those stihl blades and found that the carbide tipped trimmer blades around the $25.00 a piece on eBay and lasted much longer and no problem for larger twigs. I do have the FS110 trimmer with the handlebar, blade guard, harness and helmet with face shield as well as use safety glasses. Served me well for many years. Please be safe.
@@marcbeaudry9084 That's so interesting. We recently did a video where we derived the cost of using an edger blade for every mile of use. You might like it. Find it on our channel.
If you is a product maker blade cutter grass,,please you trying making model blade circular, but out line to sharp,,not circular shaw model for wood,because that's making circular stop easy on the operating to small wood.
Yes the brush blade! I have to clear brambles and saplings as well as lighter stuff. Does it all up to 1 cm. Plus not too difficult to sharpen yourself so can go a long time between buying blades
And there is no protection from this. All protection they sell are for chainsaws. Not blades. Basically this will amputate your leg in split sec youmade mistake. Boots or no boots. Thats tthe reason why it went away from these blades. Reason amateurs came to buy trimmers and started to chop theyr legs off clean. So they foxed this wirh string. Which got adopted easy. As no risk to loose limbs. There is three ways how it happens. You walked and fell cliping over stump as you where cutting. Second than you skipped grass and moved cutter toward foot. You see its very ackward to do you must make step beck and cut, but not move blade close to yourself. Ita what human does and b more foot. Third it rhan boynce. If someone else is at your right side mwtal blade can bounce like cjainsaw and hwre we gi you just cut your friend legs clean off
I have a corded craftsman string trimmer and a Ego battery operated trimmer would these blades fit? I'm more interested in the fit for the Battery operated one as I am the President of our HOA and get asked to help a lot of elderly in our neighborhood and it would be more convenient to use because of its mobility
As you might have noticed, that test field is short enough to use a mower that will mulch as it cuts. Using a weed whack with a blade isn't the right equipment for the job.
Agreed that that field could've been mowed better with a mower. That is exactly why we wanted to see which of these blades can take on that challenging task. The video was about the blades, not the field.
@@mainstreetmower It is a good video. We do need more videos like this to see what products can do. Another good video like this one is Project Farm. The guy does a lot of product comparisons. All kinds of products.
I want to know why have a line trimmer or blade trimmer? Why would you swap them out? And then why buy the rotary trimmer over any of the others? Let's keep this question in the STIHL Kombi range for eg. RG-KM - Rotary Trimmer; FS-KM (Blade) (GSB-230-2); FS-KM (AC 25-2)
It sounds like that brush cutter is not much above idle when cutting. Not sure if that's because it's high horsepower? What amount of throttle is recommended with these blades? 50% 80% or full?
I run two Stihl wackers... One uses an 8" carbide, many toothed blade, the other string. I only use string near hard objects. With 400' ditch frontage, I have found the perfect method (for me) sweeping the blade from R to L and then lifting the cut bundle out of the center of the ditch. As someone with two back surgeries, I really appreciate something called 'Darwin's Grip. I no longer have to stoop to use either trimmer. Jim
Nice video dude. and now a message from OSHA, our Lawyers and our Insurance company. . video was super helpfull, and its good to see your not bleeding from the shins
@@scsherman207 Can't get them where I live. The cheap saw blades I use come up on special every so often for around NZ$30 for a 3 pack. Thats probably around US$15.
I’ve used blades #4 and 5. #4 cuts better than 5 as you found but both dull VERY quickly. A far better blade is the renegade brand. Specifically I’ve found the red version seems ideal for actual woody brush and saplings. The carbide teeth hold up very well. I’ve also used The forester blades that have chainsaw teeth. Cut better than the stihl stuff but inferior to renegades offerings. Biggest issue is they dull quickly and while they can be resharpened, it takes forever to do so. I’ve used them on both an fs110 and a 240. I’d suggest giving the renegades a try, your customers that actually need to cut brush will find them superior imho. Btw. Not employed nor affiliated with renegade at ANY level, just a guy that cuts some brush on my farm when I can’t get a bushhog on it.
thanks for this real world comparison. I have an acre of mixed stuff some of the weeds are 6' tall *imagine how rich the soil is when my goldenrod was 6' and the sunflowers were 9 to 10' I need to get into recovery after an injury and your comments on how easily it cut through different size weeds has me impressed.
I bought a Stihl weed wacker. Thought I was getting top of the line stuff. Ran for while then would only run on full throttle. Sputter on low throttle. Repair shop couldn't fix it. Bought an " Echo." Runs like a charm. hmm, huh??
With Husqvarna wood blades you are supposed to run it without the cup below if I remember correctly. The cup was just for grass and brush blades. Also I think they advise only using wood blades with a brushcutter that has bullhorn handles for safety reasons as they need more control. Also you definitely shouldn't be reaching up into trees with these blades. If the blade doesn't reach through a small tree never use the kickback side of the blade... just walk round to the opposite side of the tree to finish the job. Also watching the use of these blades with trainers, bare legs and no eye protection made me cringe. No tool has thrown stuff in my face more than a brushcutter.
I am making my own blades out of 3mm steel sheets and they are 300mm long, and they are rectangular shaped, and i sharpen them on the angle grinder, I am much more productive than using dedicated stihl grass cut blades, they are better than the brush cut with 3 blades. I cut a lot of grass so i have multiple blades, i use one i rotate the blade after a while, then after some time i switch to another blade. I never in my life used the wires for cutting. The only drawback i dont use the protective cover for the blade, but in many years i cutted grass, even daily durring the summer i had nothing happen to me just by being careful enough while doing the work. Usually the bigger the blade the faster i get to do more grass and the cleaner it is.
I never use a grass blade, a good quality strimmer line will do most jobs. For wood and saplings I use a blade with the chainsaw teeth, and for brush, an Oregon mulching blade. Don't have to piss around changing blades as I use the Husqvarna 535LK pro combi and can switch heads in seconds!
Hmmm...that was an awesome review ...I was going yeah baby in time with you with that wood blade...that guard "thingy" needs to go bro 🤬🤮...another apology to STIHL 🤣...that tri blade doesn't like things hidden down low like reinforcing rods, concrete and warratahs...don't get too close to finished framing like retaining walls as it goes in like a dart into a dart board...nice work dude.
Your trimmer knowledge is amazing; thanks for sharing. I personally disagree with you showing how to use a trimmer w/ shorts. My understanding is that long pants/jeans are a basic protection from the debris that they throw around, with or without a blade guard. My preference vs. yours. Thousands of landscapers operate in my home town (Phoenix) and ALL of them wear long trousers.
Thank you for sharing, sir. I do not support using any kind of OPTs while wearing shorts. The day we recorded this video, we were swamped with work at the shop but we still managed to sneak in some time to film this quick demonstration. I agree and encourage your preference of wearing proper protective apparel while using any OPTs. With that being said, I really do appreciate your manner of getting that concern across. A lot of people have mentioned that concern here, but none of them were as well expressed and kindly put as you did. Thank you for that.
Just bought a Stihl FS240 yesterday and had to choose some blades. I left the store with two. Just watched your vid and was pleased to find I’d chosen the exact two blades you recommend!
You technique is too random, so you end up having to push through piles of cut grass. Start with cutter to the right. Sweep left and back to right then advance and repeat (you are advancing with it left to the left). This method dumps the cut grass to the left in direction of blade's cut, You're looking to lay down a straight strips of cuttings. With longer grass use shorter sweeps. Less effort and quicker clean-up.
Next vid. Reinerate the nes of the blades. So one does not have to go back to the beginning .... If i cant find the wood bade here ,is it possible to order one❓(we have mesquite ....it gave me tennis elbowcuting with a regular limb trimmer) Plus,couldnt get to the bottom without several cuts above....
Very , very , very, very AWESOMELY DONE DEMONSTRATION AND HELPFUL VIDEO!!! I have some brush to cut on the edges of some properties and I didn’t know what to do about it. Bunch of saplings. Was kind of having anxiety about how to trim all this brush that is thicker than weeds. I’ve never actually done this kind of “weed eating” . Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I own several fs240’s, and one fs560. All my fs240’s I removed the guard because it catches the debris and sometimes catches the ground. I wear the apron, boots, and eye protection. But overall I use the brush blades for the thick, to moderate brush. And the saw blade for mini trees. String does better for the grass tho!
