Best CNC under $1000 - 3030 Prover Max Review 

Do you know what type of steel you milled?

Did you cut steel with yours like 303 or 316L ?

@@nkcb996 I have only cut 6061 aluminum so far running carbide endmills in a router. I suspect it would do well in mild steel but stainless may be too hard. An issue with running a router is the one I have is air cooled and it blows coolant away. I have not used to spindle motor it ships with but it is same as the 3020 I had and underpowered in aluminum so would probably not handle any steel well.

Yes the limit switch thing was a bit annoying but equally a fairly quick fix even if that is simply taping it up

How are you liking it? I’m thinking about getting one. How’s it do stock? Is it worth the money. And is the router necessary? Is the programs beginner friendly?

There are already some design by someone I think, just can't remember what platform so maybe search yeggi. Alternatively a bit of tape over them will help as well. Hope you enjoy it

@@JamesDeanDesigns I saw a design someone had made a couple days ago somewhere. Tape is something I hadn't thought of though. I have a million projects in mind, if only I could make time.

@@SwapPartLLC I feel your pain. Time is my biggest restriction.

Do you like it? If so what are the pros and cons?? And how does it do with stainless steel?

@PilotEricG Crazy, but I haven't even used it yet. I bought it mainly for drilling PCBs, but I haven't had time to get to any of my projects yet. I have some delrin I want to mill to make some alignment jigs so I can go back and forth between the laser engraver and the mill, but I've been too busy with work.

Always good to have a backup but possibly depends where you live. Here in the UK our supply is pretty consistent for most of the country, in fact I can't remember the last outage we had.... probably will happen on my next job now😆

Thanks Tommy, I have added a link to this in the description for the video

You can do it either way. In this scenario I used it manually but I've got a few videos showing you how to have it run automatically. One way is wiring in an SSR relay yourself, or alternatively you can buy a premade device like this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vEOX8F8dkn0.html

No air pump comes with this. Yes, Genmitsu now have a trim router for machines. I suspect it will be good but I have not actually tested one yet so I can't really comment

Hi, No I didnt disconnect the old spindle, I just tucked the wires out of the way. The e-stop would still work in terms of the machine movement shutting down but the only way to get it to shut the router down as well would be connecting the router via an SSR relay device. This is fairly easy to do and I have a video on it. It basically means the router will start and stop automatically without you needed to manually turn it on/off

Yes they will be for the Makita. I generally run mine quite low so likely would have been number 2 or 3 at the most.

I'd like to think so but a router probably isn't the best for consistently cutting steel. I imagine a spindle VFD setup would be better

SD card

Yes it can. Those are 3d relief carvings and this machine can do those as well 👍

@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks so much! Would you recommend this one over Vasto, or a 4030 which is the same price currently on Amazon?

@maxkunakhovich8919 it depends on what you want overall. I would say the 3030 is more precise, the 4030 is stronger and the vasto is a bit of both so overall by choice the vasto is what I'd go for. And I think it still has 20% off www.foxalien.com/products/cnc-router-machine-vasto-xl?sca_ref=725103.t6qfXeHAnx

Hi, There is no 3040 as such. The extended 3018 is considered a 3040, but I suspect you mean the ProverXL 4030 maybe? If so then then the ProverXL 4030 is a better machine than the 4040 Pro. If its a choice of the 4040 Pro or this machine in the video, then the 3030 Prover Max in the video

Definitely better than an upgraded 3020 Pro Max. When you say CNC 3040, I am guessing you mean the ProverXL 4030? Debatable there depend on what you want. The 3030 Prover Max is going to be more accurate but the ProverXL 4030 is more powerful and has extension kit available so you can expand.

@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you for your quick response. My interest has been renewed because of BF. I am also looking at the Ooznest workbee + machine. Do you know of these and how they compare with the Sainsmart machines? Thanks.

The X and Y measurements are fully useable, it's the Z height that's tricky as you have to allow for safe travel so whilst this has an 80mm z travel I would say max cutting height is 70-75. As the spindle is in a clamp you can adjust the height of that according the the length of bit you are using to some degree

@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for explaining it to me, as I was definitely having problems understanding marketing vs reality.

Size...the ProverXL V2. Precision...the 3030. If it wasn't for the copper I'd have definitely said the 4030 but the 3030 is better for metal 😕

@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks! I think I'm go8ng for the 3o30 with makita router

It is this one - probably cheaper directly off amazon Low profile vice from FoxAlien amzn.to/3PbxFGB bit.ly/3wHkczH

Awesome! Thank you! That’s the one I thought it was and picked one up last night. Thanks for the awesome video!

Think you emailed but I'll reply here to be safe. Its the FoxAlien low profile vice amzn.to/470yJU6 bit.ly/40edGeu

@@JamesDeanDesigns yeah I did thanks for getting back to me

Yes the 3030 should be more accurate and precise in theory as there is minimal flex on any of the axis. Arguably the weakest part that is likely to flex would be the shaft on the standard spindle as its only an ER11 collet.

Awesome, thanks for replying. I actually hadn't thought of the possible flex in an ER11 collett, but that wouldn't be an issue as I would use a Makita anyway. Thanks again for all the work you put into your reviews and videos, they are always interesting and straightforward! Cheers.

Then only thing I dont like is that the table moves instead of the gantry.

Larger work area, more powerful stepper motors and a little more going in for things like dust guards on the X axis so this wins but equally does cost more

@@JamesDeanDesigns Are the steppers actually more powerful? It seems that they are both NEMA17, but I can't find the exact size/specs on the foxalien woodmads 3020

Rusted stainless steel?

@cmtetaboaco That's why I said mid and NOT stainless, I guess you must have misread.

The stock spindle will cut aluminium and brass but at slower/shallower rate. I do show it cutting aluminium earlier on I believe. The steel is just mild steel, don't know exactly what grade. Enclosures do help cut down the noise. But dust extraction (typically a vacuum) will add noise. I often just let my machined run in the enclosure and clean up at the end

@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you for taking the time to answer. In terms of enclosure, how can i build a dust proof, sound dampening enclosure, without cutting wood? Do I use aluminium extrusions? What other materials would I use and how would I have to use them? Thanks in advance :)

Aluminium reinforced with two steel linear rails over a fairly short length. Would take a fair bit of pressure to flex it

Candle isn't anything to do with Sainsmart or this machine, it's just one of the free pieces of software that can be used with it. However Candle hasn't really been developed for some time now so I would suggest switching over to UGS which is constantly being improved and has a height map feature

In theory, yes it should be able to as as it is programed as X,Y,Z and A

Is it just the probe is backwards and everything else is OK? If so then just add a - before the number and it will move down instead of up

@@JamesDeanDesigns I did screw-up the settings. The probe button on Offline control goes backward. I have fixed with $3=3 and $23=3 but I'd really appreciate if someone can provide me with all settings. Please do $$ in UGS and share the results. Many thanks !

I probably messed things when using OpenBuilder. Still learning....

Physically about 6 or 7 so far and others I based on the specs of the machines. Look at my channel if you want the full list

Not 100% sure what you mean but to my knowledge its a true 4th axis, ran as an A axis

It's easier to explain with 3 axis. With 2+1 if you want to bore a whole it takes z to some depth then cuts the circle then z goes down again it cuts a circle so on until it gets to depth. This is what a lot of FDM 3d printers run as. True 3 would cut a helical path down the hole (all 3 axis moving at once). So 3+1 it would index a (say 90 degrees or watever) then cut x y and z, then index and repeat. True 4 all 4 move at the same time. It's faster, can get some geometry the other can't, but it's very demanding on the machines computer (and on the cam programming it too)

Thats OK. I've just checked on a few devices and not getting that. I can assure you its a safe link but thank you for letting me know, I'll keep an eye on them 👍

No, it's not malware. It flagged the program likely due to obfuscated code in the program.

The Z probe itself has been used a few times now on different models. I'm not 100% sure why they went with the jack connector approach on this one though, but I found as long as I made sure it was pushed all the way in until it clicked, I worked fine both with the offline controller and in UGS

Well my 54k subscribers and nearly 5M views to your 2k subscribers and 27k views would suggest I'm doing something right so I'll be sure not to take your RU-vid advice...BYE :)

Caveat Emptor my dude. You are expecting entirely too much from these Chinese company’s that manufacture products to a price point, not to capability and longevity.

​@@ChuckThree I'm practically a machine-whisperer since 1996, understanding the ins and outs and the hefty price tags. Yet, in the social media jungle, every Tom, Dick, and Harry claims their machines are metal-cutting superheroes. Consider this your friendly PSA to unveil the real truth - these champs excel in woodworking and plastic wizardry, not metal mayhem.

I state this is a CNC capable of cutting metal which I prove it does. At no point do I say this is better or equal to a metal milling machine - lets not twist what I say for your argument. I can't remember if I say it in this video but I have done in other, I say I am not an expert in working with metal. In fact I repeatedly say throughout the course of my videos that I still consider myself to be a beginner and learning. I'm saying this machine is ideal for those on a budget wanting to perhaps to a bit of wood and metal

​@@JamesDeanDesigns Firstly, let me express my appreciation for your videos and the effort you invest in them. I understand these machines are often provided for free in exchange for a positive presentation, but it's crucial to establish some boundaries to safeguard your reputation. Honesty is key, especially in conveying accurate messages on both content and thumbnails. I recognize that you might not be familiar with the intricate requirements of metal milling, and that's perfectly fine. However, it's important to clarify that the lightweight machine equipped with a wood router showcased in your video lacks the essential mechanical components for metal milling. Specifically, it lacks a spindle with sufficient torque at low speeds and heavy-duty transmission, guides, and structure-attributes vital for metal milling. The implications for an enthusiastic viewer led to believe this machine can handle all aspects of car/motorbike mods are substantial. Firstly, achieving proper milling depth and RPM becomes an impossible challenge. Secondly, processing technical materials proves more difficult than working with low-density steel commonly used in construction. Investing in mist cooling for a woodworking machine, as implied, can lead to unnecessary expenses and added complications. Worse still, the guides and transmission will inevitably deteriorate over time due to the inability to withstand the forces involved in metal milling. I urge you to exercise caution in future presentations. The substantial cost and weight difference of dedicated metal milling machines is not merely for aesthetics; it serves a specific purpose and architectural design integral to effective metal milling. Sure, you can patiently cut a metal beam with a Dremel, but is it a brilliant idea? It's like asking your Dremel to perform superhero feats-it might give it an identity crisis, and let's face it, it'll probably retire before completing its metal-cutting bucket list! Kind regards.😉

@axelSixtySix some are provided free, some are paid for 100% some are partially paid for. But that doesn't make a difference, I have a review policy in place that has to be agreed to which gives me the right to say what I want including highlighting flaws or issues. And anyone who has followed me for a while will remember me calling xTool out for offering a machine but saying it had to be a positive review - and so I refused and instead made a video about what they tried to do in manipulating the market. When I realised Sainsmart were overselling the rating of their lasers, again I had no issues highlighting that in a video. You have narrative that you have made up to try and support your arguments, for example do I say this is suitable to machine car or engine parts - no I do not. Why would I say that when I have never machined a part like that in my life. You have you your thoughts and options, which your entitled to, but the bottom line is I ran a series of tests and showed the results in the video. I dont lie, I'm not making false promises, what you see is what you get.

Excellent!!! Speed of the router is always manually controlled but you can have it turn on automatically. You have 2 choice. You can either wire an SSR in yourself (not difficult I promise) or buy a smart switch which is basically the same thing but the hard work done for you. First video below is the SSR, second video is the smart switch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-496rC1lVN68.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vEOX8F8dkn0.html