well i'm hoping i can get more followers by next summer but i need to start putting up more videos because i have pretty serious plans for it next summer
Two things you guys have to take into account. The stock temp sensor and gauge are very inaccurate. Measure temps using a more accurate device. IR scanner, after market digital gauge. The other thing is air temps. Air temp makes a huge difference in how well the 4.0L engine cooling system performs. The XJ 4.0l engine cooling system is marginal at best and that's before you lift one and get even less air flow through the radiator.
Lol 4 years later I will comment. The 4.0 was never supposed to go in the XJ. It was shoehorned in and airflow is not optimal. Maintenance is key. Flush the cooling system regularly. Change oil. Any engine that has the intake and exhaust on the same side is going to have higher then nominal temperature rise. Wire up your electric cooling fan with a time delay relay to prevent heat soak. 4.0 engines regularly last 2 to 300k miles if properly maintained. I know mine have.
When I got my 98 XJ it had 120k Miles on it and the Heater Core was leaking and the Water in the Radiator was Super Rusty And yes it was running Hot on a Cool day. I replaced the Radiator with a 2 Core Champion it has 1" cooling Tubes and flows 3 times better than a Stock Radiator even with a Stock Pump. , replaced the Heater Core, New Thermostat 180* and on 105* Days I can run the A/C and Put around all day Long , the Temp Needle Tries its Best to Get to 210 but it has not made it there so far. I did this exact same thing to a 96 XJ about 8 years ago and when I sold It the Temp gauge was reading the Same. Since then several other owners of XJ that trail with me did the Same thing and so far they have gotten the Same results. Be sure that if you XJ came with a Fan Clutch make sure that it is Working Properly, if the Fan Clutch is 50% shot you will notice about a 10 to 15 Degree rise in your Temp, That was with the stock Radiator. Check out the Champion Radiators, I also Buy and Rebuild Classic Corvettes and this is one of the First things I do to them also, Replace the Radiator with a Champion and that has always eliminated the Corvette's from running Hot even the Big Block 427 will run cool in stop and go traffic. Replace the Coolant every year with a Gallon of Coolant and the rest water and it works just fine for me. God bless America and its Disabled Veterans.
If you have overheating problems and you are NOT hardcore crawling in 115*F weather, you just need a rebuilt stock setup. The flowkooker pump is nice but I don't have any overheating issues with a fully rebuilt factory setup, running 35" tires and doing lots of hot weather offroading. If you have a fully built buggy or something you might want to throw in an aluminum 2-core radiator (mishimoto) but they are known to crack at the welds over time, as well as a ZJ fan clutch. Almost no electric fan setup will match the flow of a belt-driven fan with the ZJ fan clutch That said, I am running a Napa water pump and fan clutch, an OEM Mopar thermostat, and a Spectra stock replacement radiator, as well as Gates hoses, and a stant 16psi radiator cap. Works just fine for me and I always use the air conditioning. If your AC condenser is filled with rocks, it will affect airflow to the radiator so don't overlook that. The Flowkooler pump will boost flow at idle but not that much over 2000 rpm. A thicker core radiator can help with dumping the heat out but has its own issues such as the welds usually being sub-par. A lower temp thermostat will NOT help overheating issues, and will lower your fuel efficiency, the motor should be at 210*F and should not exceed 225*F or you will risk warping the head over time. There is alot of info on various Jeep forums so do your own research and make your own decisions based on your usage. The stock system works just fine for me
@@flex-jsteve540 Nice looking XJ!!! I took my stock thermostat housing and ground it out to flow more. I ordered a Flowkooler water pump from Hesco and they cancelled my order themselves saying my stock water pump was already high flow. How many companies would do that!!! I got rid of my stock fan and went with a 2 speed Thunderbird fan on my 2004 TJ. Stock setup just didn't do it in the So Cal desert. I wish I would only see 90 degrees...
There is no Mishimoto made in HISTORY that made it past R&D has “cracked at the welds.” Whoever told you that is an imbecile of the 12th degree. There is no better mass-made radiator on Earth. Period. Yes, there are a FEW racing company’s that can make an equal or better radiator, but for the masses-Mishimoto is it.
Wow! What a really well put-together looking setup you have. So many Jeep videos are the worst examples of hillbilly engineering. It was really nice to see a rig like yours. Good job!
Nice job ! I have XJ 97 has 91 factory all metal radiator mopar brand ,zj fan and clutch, factory 198°thermostat and factory housing and water pump, and factory radiator shroud witch I believe makes the biggest difference so it only pulls air though the radiator.
I am putting in my 4th and final 4.6 stroker. I actually have the Hesco T-Stat housing and Flowkooler WP as well. I never had any success finding that lower coolant hose with a spring to prevent collapse. I've read that the lower the pressure in the system (which a collapsing hose would cause) the more the fluids can approach bubbling/boiling temperature, and the water pump circulation increases that by using fins to pump the water, which causes cavitation (H20 turns into HH and O, this is where the bubbles come from when you shake water in a bottle, run water full blast through the faucet, or submerge a propeller at speed into water - which is just what the WP does). Submarines need special metals in the propellers to keep them from falling apart because of the pressure differentiation from the cavitation it causes on either sides of the fins. It creates amazing low pressure, and the more your WP flows the more negative pressure you have on the bottom inlet, and the more it will collapse hoses. No one should be using that higher flowing water pump without a springed lower hose, especially with a thermostat that opens and closes in binary mode. I highly recommend you spend the extra $2 and get a premium thermostat that opens variably based on temperature, like the Gates or FelPro units on RockAuto. It's a more even flow without the drastic transitions between high and low pressure caused by open and closed operation. I just put in a set of Flex-alite pusher fans in front of the radiator and will be wiring it up today so I can push air into the fans on the other side that pull, instead of buying a bunch of fans while losing 2 that work just fine. I have a supercharger as well so I need all the additional cooling I can get. Also, if you have a 00-01 XJ, toss that dual cat setup right beside the engine. That's causing a ton of excess heat and is where the misfires and eventual cylinder head crack comes from. Get the old setup with 1 cat in the back under the carriage. That infernal setup was engineered to cause problems, along with the lower pinion angle on the front axle. Maintenance sales just weren't high enough for Jeep.
Wayne Sanders I have a whole different video on exhaust...I have a 00 and gf has an 01 both had California emissions and both were swapped with zj engines and converted to federal
Wayne Sanders sorry to burst your bubble but the high pinion is from a TJ Dana 30 which Jeep had a lot of and did not want to reorder low pinion for a model that was already chopped. The cats and all the emissions garbage on the 99 and up XJs were due to increased emissions requirements to keep the 4.0 emissions compliant.
Flex-J Steve whatever you say Dr. Jeep. Just sharing what I know having been there and done that when these cars were still leaking oil on the showroom floor.
Man,you know how to avoid over heating,i salut you I went for same water pump,v8 clutch fan,after market thermostat,and thats it Temperature here in summer over 50C and i drive my xj in daily basis without worrying about any and a/c on
ibrahim khubaizi you're not getting the full benefits with the stock housing pushing more volume you need to upgrade lol it's like $40....all that's really left to aid cooling are some hood vents but I need a new hood first
Flex-J Steve Totally agree with you,thing is its hard to find parts in here(im located in Kuwait) and shipping will take much time and money if i want to order,but so far my xj doing great
ibrahim khubaizi you can always find an alternative and have some ship it to you personally lol...but yeah I'm sorry that you have a hard time with it...even if you got it 6 months after you order it it's still worth it and would only take you maybe 10 min to swap out....but I'm happy to hear it's running good
Unless you have an old renix setup with the closed cooling system and pressure bottle that leaks from every connection when it gets hot instead of just venting.
Save yourself 6 minutes. Skip this video. The guy tells you one minute "the stock stuff is fine for the cooling system" then goes on to explain how he's running a Flowcooler water pump and aftermarket thermostat housing, and a higher pressure cap on the radiator. Waste of time.
JeepITguy you're not listening clearly please rewatch....if I did make a mistake I apologize it's my first video and it was easy to trip up on words believe it or not
You did say factory set up works fine. The biggest kicker have you seen the taurus fan mod? Your clutch fan and back up elelctrical stock pull a combined 6k max. The taurus fan over a larger circumference of the radiator packs itself pulls 3700 low 9k high. You do the math. Also, you didn't fix the biggest issue and most infamous one... Trans cooling lines running in with the radiator. You can take out your condenser pack cause who runs a/c in a xj and swap it for a single flow trans cooling one big enough for the aw4 which is the only real culprit in any Cherokee. Idk why everyone and their brother thinks doing upkeep replacement of a house and housing will do anything. 210? Shit I run 160-180 max in idle. OUT OF ANYTHING you won't reach a susceptible temp without eliminating the trans cooling lines from the radiator.
+Aaron Dougherty I am struggling with this also (my aw4 gets hot, making the engine hot), and am new to Jeeps. So you recommend scrapping the AC system, so I can remove the condenser and replace it with a aftermarket/larger trans cooler??? I can see this moving the trans heat away from the radiator, but my real problem is the trans- can you recommend a cooler that works in this way? or did I miss interpret what you were saying? Thanks
The main problem is the standard radiator has the trans cooling lines running inline with the coolant so for starters they work against each other and heat each other. I replaced with a full coolant radiator and then yes removed the condenser or you can run them behind and below your radiator a lil less supported I think so I just mounted it where my ac condenser was. I bought super B&m super cooler from summit auto. I'll send ya some pics if you have a facebook I can show you exactly what mine looks like.
I have a 99 xj and on an average day driving to work 15 minutes away it will reach above 210 with the ac on and my fan never turns off, even just driving 25 minutes to town it gets up to 230 and i can never have the ac on! I’m no mechanic but if I buy the right parts on the video hopefully it will bring my temp down quite a bit and save my engine from overheating all the damn time
I am planning on upgrading my XJ in a similar way before Christmas this year. Any help on part numbers you can provide I would appreciate it. Good job on a first video too!! keep them coming!
My temperature climbs when I'm sitting still, however I did just change my thermostat a lower temperature thermostat from 195 to 180 could this possibly be the reason why? I also changed from the stock thermostat housing to an aftermarket one from Pep Boys?
Wow all that to keep it running cool bro you spend a fortune on all those parts. I have a 2001 jeep Cherokee HAD the same issue all I did was flus my heater core and buy a thermostat to release the pressure at 165 now on a hot day of 109 degree weather it goes a tad bit over 210 with AC running
@@hectormarkmunoz no I haven't but I live in Texas as well and I had the same problem till I did the switch on the thermostat till this day it's still driving good and not heating up passed 210
CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE. I had a weak fuel pump causing a lean running condition. Leaner mixture runs hotter. My XJ would start missing like a stormtrooper whenever I got near 210. Its kuz the fuel rail pressure was not high enough to keep the fuel from boiling. New pump, runs much cooler, and even when I have gotten it up to the line after 210, no misfire.
@@flex-jsteve540 nope. My 2000 Cherokee never once threw any cel other than a p0303. Cyl 3 misfire. And that was only if I sat with it idling too long. Fuel pressure got so shitty that it would just fall on its face if I tried to throttle up at all. When I finally tested fuel pressure with a gauge rather than depressing the Schrader on the rail, she made a whopping 3 - 7 psi. New fuel pump also solved what I thought was a transmission issue, nah just turned out it couldn't supply the necessary amount of fuel.
@@flex-jsteve540 cel was intermittent and would clear itself after a few drive cycles if it didn't get hot. Snap on Apollo D9 scan tool identified the problem as bad coil or bad plug. Injector was functioning as designed and there's no fuel pressure sensor, never once did it point towards the fuel pump. Lack of power was definitely noticed but was attributed to 37's on 3.55's. I've had plenty of 4.0s but never had such large tires on such a tall ratio until I picked up this one. Nevertheless, a fuel pressure test never hurts unless you spray it in your eyes and according to FSM 43 psi is the minimal pressure acceptable.
Very nicely done and explained! I like it. If you could put the name and perhaps part # of the special parts you used to improve the stock system it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
To cheap for dealer parts if I can avoid it. I never had a problem with NAPA hoses. I even forgot the spring one year and the hose never gave me a problem. Never remove the fan shroud, needed for slow traffic. Buy a cheap tester to check the antifreeze. Buy a good water pump who wants to keep changing cheap ones. Don't over tension the belts as that will also help kill the bearings in the pump. Just my two cents.
Jeep Cherokee then save the money to buy the quality parts it’s not difficult.....so you’re running a flowkooler pump? It’s all stated in the video....never said anything about removing the shroud....yeah that’s why it says flowkooler pump in the video
Sorry, post wasn't directed to you. Just I have seen so many people make these common mistakes. I just changed a radiator that developed a leak, a cheap one that I bought. The only one the parts store had at the time and I couldn't wait for a good one. lasted several years, so much for plastic. It pays to get good parts.
Good info bro I want to buy a Jeep XJ what are some things I should lookout for ? I want to make sure I buy something that won't make me feel like I wasted my money
Thank you for the video. Could please share with me the links of where to purchased the thermostat housing, and also the lower hose with the coil in it. Thanks
Looking for a lower hose with the spring in it 96 Cherokee XJ 4.0 HO. Looking for a factory coolant temp sensor with gauge same vehicle. Also looking for factory radiator same vehicle. Also looking for a quick disconnect for the automatic transmission line The female end. I didn't catch what kind of thermostat housing you have on it thank you for your time
Hi, I know this is a old vid, I am trying to upgrade my cooling on the XJ and like the simple things you have done on your Jeep. I am in Australia and would like to get my hands on the thermostat housing and the high flow water pump. Can you point me in the right direction please. I also like your head lights, please let me know where you got those from too.
Thank you for all your info. I got the name and numbers for everything . And thanks for the tip on the newer Lower Radiator hose With spring. I will be upgrading my 99 XJ for a better cooling system . Cheers Steve.......
Kyle W they aren't universal parts so there should be no confusion on what to get once you simply give year make model....not to mention this was done long ago and part numbers or not you still have to go through the same steps to obtain the parts so that's just a lot of unnecessary work
I just happened to come across your video... I see your Jeep xj has an OR-Fab front bumper which by the way is no longer made. I think I might have bought the last one they had before OR-Fab went out of business. Yes, I have the same exact bumper on my Jeep xj. I also see that you have a winch. What I want to know is, what brand or kind of winch you have and what size is it??? I'm not sure which winch to get and by looking at yours, I thought you might be able to help with an idea. I'd very much appreciate your input.
They still make it. They shut down for a while and then they opened back up again. What you are talking about is what happened a long time ago that’s not recent at all. I have a Smittybilt x20 10k synthetic with the box relocated in the engine bay by the firewall with 2/0 wire ran for it and a 380 amp alternator.
Hey my 1998 Jeep Cherokee shuts off and it over heats, but it has a 1996 motor in it. We are going to replace the radiation and I am watching videos on RU-vid. Can you please help me.
Stop doggin this guy out, i have the same engine and an open thermostat. My 94 ZJ never gets above the half way mark even in rough traffic or trails in the summer. Temp always stays under the second hash mark when normal driving
I put two stock AC fans in mine and got rid of that clutch fan and mine works pretty good I just hooked them up to my ignition so they run all the time and in the winter time I will probably just pull the fuse for the one on my driver side and just run the passenger side one
I think they are the STARR HID bi-xenon lights headlightrevolution.com/starr-hid-starr-hid-xp6054b-bi-xenon-black-projector-headlights-kit-5x7-rectangular-sealed-beam/
reddyuda they are...funny you say that because I bought them a year ago from a different website and they discontinued them and just tuesday I discovered them from their actual source lol
You have a rad cap on yours. Mine does not have a rad opening, at all.... lol 89 4.0L that’s why we customize the cooling system cause they’re not all the same. And mine.... sucks! Lol pressured resivoirs suck in general!
Thinking about it but there’s none in my local yard. New parts are not as budget friendly. I’m starting with a double electric fan. Hopefully that’s enough.
Full flow pump. Cold case wide tube 2 core alum performance rad. Stock fan setup with good shrouds. High flow housing. 2 35,000gvw trans coolers, one with fan under rear seat area other in front of condenser and trans not ran through radiator anymore. Dynatrac pr 60hd rear Dana 44 front. 4;88gears 35” tires. Lock out hubs front so save gas and wear and tear on driveline in front going down road. Trans speedo gears corrected and replaced most sensors. POS can’t wait to get above 220 and won’t stay below 210. 180 tstat checked that it works in water and can see it working with digital coolant temp gauge with sending unit in uppper rad hose. Also has a New head because shop ruined mine because thin casting doing valve job. Used felpro severe duty head gasket. my jeeps fully built and well taken care of. No rust ever on vehicle or inside cooling system. So wtf is wrong with my 97’. Anyone know?? Came from stock system that overheated and even with trans out of it and zj fan clutch it was hot. Zj helped but took mass amounts of hp. Recently took out cat with no real difference. Actually feel flat spot mid range rpm so getting new one soon. Plus ecm prob knows cat isn’t working. Air fuel could be whack too I don’t know. Lol Question I have a Napa temp sensor and tps sensor. Runs super smooth and drives nicer than any xj I’ve ever rode in. Just rebuilt trans and t case with max line pressure and new updated shift solenoids etc. works amazing but bitch is dying of heat. Could it be timing issue??? Maybe because of that temp sensor?? Any input would be rad.
Hey Steve, Thanks for the video. One question; I got fancy new higher temp silicone hoses but without the metal coil included. Is there a way to insert a metal coil in an aftermarket lower hose?? Thanks
Hey I’ve been trying to find factory cooling systems part but I’m having a hard time finding them. Gone to the dealerships here and they keep telling that they carry them anymore! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L
Just bought a 06 Chevy and I ran it the other day and the temp gauge was going up in temp what do you recommend me replacing first to get it running and not over heating
My 2000 xj classic runs good until I start to slow down , as soon as I slow down or after a while of running the Temp. Just spikes out of no where. Can you help ? Idk if it’s a water pump issue or a thermostat
So saving a nickel every gallon of gas and 5 horsepower is more important to you than a better correct higher cfm system that is not hacked together? You’re on your own
@@flex-jsteve540 well, I’m in Australia, so when it comes to fuel, it’s not so much about the cost, it’s about the distance! Some places I travel to, fuel stations can be 500kms apart! Not only that but outback fuel prices are crazy. So yes, fuel economy matters! Also, I may be carrying a lot of extra weight or towing a boat, so yes, 5hp (actually, it’s more like 10hp) actually does matter! You need to remember that not everyone’s needs are the same as yours! Oh and why would you assume that just because my cooling system isn’t stock that it’s “hacked together”? Because it’s not. It’s high quality, tried and tested and I can crawl along all day in 45 deg C heat without overheating. But whatever, you stick with your old fashioned tech if you want to…
Did you have problems with the hesco thermostat housing leaking from the bottom of it? I've put on 4 blue gaskets from autozone, before I replaced the OEM thermostat housing it wasn't leaking before but now it is. I haven't checked to see if their is any cracks on the head where the thermostat housing goes on but I doubt it's cracked though. Can you give me some advice why it's leaking?
There’s only a handful of ways it’ll leak. You didn’t put the hose on all the way, it’s cracked, it’s not machined flat, you didn’t clean the surface well, you didn’t rtv both sides of the gasket, you didn’t torque correctly.
@@flex-jsteve540 Thanks for the quick reply I did put new hoses all around and their pretty tight on the connections I did clean off the surface too. About how much torque should I torque them down to.
Hyper_Wolf _Co Starr....just leaned that about a week ago because I originally ordered them off a different website about a year ago and they said they were discontinued but I found the original company that made them and it's starr....great headlight
@@jonathanesteva4265 yeah for sure you can’t go wrong with top shelf cooling components it’s better than replacing your whole engine which is a whole video coming to here one day lol
Kendal Morris yeah literally replace everything and build a stroker while you’re already there felpro master gasket set horseshoe intake 62 mm throttle body k&n intake system bigger injectors flowkooler pump dealer radiator hoses dealer thermostat hesco housing app dealer sensors dealer radiator higher pound cap 330 amp alternator big 3 upgrade dealer injector heat shield banks header brown dog engine mounts I’m sure I’m missing more and if it’s Cali convert the entire thing to fed
Hi Steve...I need some advice if you can...I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport...I'm having some cooling system issues...everything is stock...I'm the winter it's fine but in the summer it gets over 210...just about to the next mark beyond 210...once it got to about 3 marks past 210...no leaks...I'm flushed it but it still "creeps up" in temperature...do you have any ideas what I can do?...many thanks...Charlie
Charlie C easy...start with how long have you had it and how many miles are on it and what you’ve replaced involving the cooling system and what brands
Flex-J Steve Hi Steve...thanks for replying! I've had the Jeep for about 3 years...it had a history of a cracked head which was replaced before I got it and it ran great all that time until last week...it has however always run a little on the hot side...I bought it at 139k miles and it now has 179k miles on it...one thing I just discovered...the bottom radiator hose does NOT have a spring in it...I've read and heard on a video that without that spring in the bottom hose, the hose tends to collapse and restrict the water flow...Is that true in your opinion?...and do you think that could cause the temp to rise as I drive it for longer periods at a time or fluctuates in temp depending on the outside temps??.
Charlie C you should be thankful it’s lasted as long as it did lol as for me as soon as I get one I just replace everything it doesn’t matter if it’s good or bad the thing is close to 20 years old if not more and should be replaced far before that even happens
@@flex-jsteve540 I know but I noticed your valve cover so clean I cannot find a set for my XJ I am tired of looking at the oil leaks from the valve cover.
gargato1970 it’s called washing it....that’s not even my new one either in the video....then replace your valve cover gasket I’m not understanding your issue here
Dawood Shahrestany keep the air conditioning....you're not a slave and as stated in the video I can go out off road on 100 degree days and I have zero cooling issues
Dawood Shahrestany if you do the same parts and everything is clear you will have zero issues....I've done it to 3 jeeps now and if you continue to have a heating issue something is wrong....just like the guys who add 3 electric fans and stuff you would be just avoiding the problem at hand...no problem man
Dawood Shahrestany that's good if you ever need more help feel free to ask and I'm working on it but I'm super slammed right now but soon I will be making a new video
You could have made them yourself, easily, for $70. I love it when guys bolt-on stuff and don't actually build anything, then pretend they have some sort of knowledge.
+JeepITguy who dumped in your cheerios? i "love it" when some guy who has nothing to offer but pointless criticism pollutes a video thread with armchair knowledge.
Flex-J Steve it's a fan shroud bro not a transfer case. $15, three years later later...I'd say that fan shroud is holding up good. Junk yards are good no doubt to find certain parts.
Schon Mack rough trash “3 inch lift” and 31” Michelin defender ltx.....ordering a real lift tomorrow the guy before me put on this pathetic excuse of a lift
