Here is my DIY heavy kayak lifter! If you're fed up with back injuries and muscle strain from lugging your heavy kayak or canoe or rowboat onto your rooftop, THIS is the solution you've been searching for.
Brilliant work! Probably my next project. I have an aluminum canoe that will have to go up upside down, but that should not present any problems. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks! But there is a different approach for boats that load upside down, like canoes. Search for this excellent video: DIY roof rack boat loader. It doesn’t use any rope or pulleys, just a couple “steps” on the ramp; utter simplicity. You DO have to be careful or the boat could come tumbling down. I actually tried this before coming up with my design, but it didn’t work with my right side up kayak.
@@ThfeyhvfdetyhbvcdI dug up some old harken blocks and rigged it up this evening! Amazing how easy it is. I need to get some carabiners, so that it all just clips on instead of tying everything. 17 ft, 85 lb canoe, upside down, was very manageable. Mine was all crude and thrown together, but with some refinement this is going to make things so much easier.
@@andrewharmon7929 Pleased to hear that it worked out for you! I’ve considered several improvements to my rig, but only implemented one. You might find that if “as is” gets you on the water, then it is “good enough”.
Thank you for posting this, this is a great idea for those of us that are getting older and can no longer brute force the load. Yes it takes more time, but the risk of injury is reduced greatly and it WORKS. I will be trying this for my kayak. Thank you again.
The trickiest part is making the two pvc connectors to the roof rack. You need to have enough clearance for the arc to rotate. Make one first, using a T connector, before you buy any additional material. There are a couple options to cutting the pvc slot. On my first ramp, I used some strong mason twine wrapped around a handle at each end (stick, dowel, screwdriver, etc) and sawed it. Search RU-vid for examples. For my second ramp, I didn’t have any twine, so I used a Harbor Freight rotary tool (like a dremel) that was on sale for under $10. It worked great.
I don’t have cross rails either; just the two long side rails. First step is to cut a T joint to fit under the side rail and have enough clearance to rotate through about 120 degrees. You might need to try 3” 4” diameter or whatever fits. Next is to figure out clearance for the sliding door. Connecting it directly to the ramp might cause a collision with the door. You need an offset of several inches. Look over my “apparatus” and you’ll notice how it holds the ramps clear of the door.
@@Thfeyhvfdetyhbvcd Thanks for taking the time to reply. Mine has just a bare roof so no side rails. I have the bars that clamp to the roof / door frames directly. I think I can make some new version that will do the trick though. Thanks Darren
Awesome design - for further improvement I wouldn't combine a bunch of pieces, but bend two straight pipes after heating them with a hot air gun to avoid the bumps at the joints. For the cross-bar take a piece of hardwood and drill holes to insert it. The rope cuts into the PVC-cross-bar because the friction builds up too much heat, no issues with hardwood I think. Additionally you could wax it or slide on a loose-fit piece of aluminium tubing as a roller. To help against fiddling around with the ramp pieces, you could use tight fitting wooden dowels to connect PVC tubing of the same diameter, then you only need one bolt each side to mount them together. Would give you a very smooth ramp with no bumps.
Hi mate bloody good idea but you need to make a roller for the rope it's cutting in the pvc pipe if the rope can runs over the roller it will help and works a lot better and the runners need to be able to fold up ,,,an electric ATV winch is worth a look mounted in the middle of the rack with one rope clips on a single sling looped around the kayak,,,I've done it as well 😊😊😊😊👍
Great suggestions As for the ramps, they are just short enough to fit in my van. If I wanted anything longer, then I certainly would need to fold them or something.
Works GREAT! I made a modification to hold the bolts in place when assembling. I cut a small square of plastic from a peanut butter lid and drilled a hole that fit the bolt tightly, and slid it on. The bolts have never since fallen out. I’m glad I screwed the “apparatus” together rather than glueing it. I was careless unloading the kayak and cracked a fitting. It was simple to replace with only screws holding it together. I also came up with a change in unloading the kayak. I discovered that the pulleys weren’t needed. I simply substituted a 15’ rope and wrapped it around the large pipe. There is enough friction to controllably lower the heavy kayak.
You really need to put 1 or 2 nonslip bath mats on you car before doing this. Just resting the pbc on on the car makes scratches. Bath mats for the win
Great idea. Ive been doing some research on making one. My one idea is to use basically your system but make it all self contained like a Shingle elevator(See link for reference). Everything would be significantly reduce because it can. Also the shelf used on a shingle elevator would remain parallel to the vehicle and make it really easy to push or pull on. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n2F9hjTdHCU.html
Interesting! I had never heard of a shingle elevator. I HAD thought of using a cheap 12V hoist but couldn’t figure an easy way to connect it; never considered mounting it at the BOTTOM of the ramp! Since reading your comment, I ran across other videos about “ladder hoists” that use a modified extension ladder for the frame. You surely wouldn’t need a long one for that. Thanks for the suggestion.
I LOVE this kayak. I even own TWO of them! It takes waves great because it is long and heavy. I can load it up for multi-day camping trips. It is exceptionally stable, making it easy to exit and enter when snorkeling. I have one at my winter Florida home and at my waterfront summer home. Oftentimes I take visitors, adults or kids, on multi hour excursions that they simply would not be capable of paddling solo. I do own two inflatable kayaks, but those are also tandem. But I far better enjoy paddling BIG RED!
The whole point of my system is that it doesn’t require any lifting. My sister has one of those T systems for her heavy Hobie Tandem. It is difficult to use. First, you have to lift one end of the heavy kayak onto it. That’s over 40 lbs, and you have to twist your back to get it lined up. Then you have to lift the other end high off the ground while simultaneously pushing it forward. That’s WAY too much lifting for someone with a back injury. My system requires no lifting whatsoever. Assembling the ramps is easy. Each takes just two bolts. Attaching the rope and pulleys takes the most time, mainly stretching them across the roof and down to the kayak. I’ve made TWO of these ramps and they work great for my heavy kayak. Been using them for several years. But, if lifting is not a concern, the T system IS pretty quick. BTW. For 15 years prior to my back injury, I simply lifted one end of my kayak onto the rear roof, then lifted the other end above my head and slid it forward on two pool noodles! THAT was quick and cheap. I just cannot do that anymore.
