Best Drill Bit Set? $11 vs $200? Let’s Settle This! 

Looking forward to meeting you and everyone else that's there! I'll be loading up the vehicle with several items from past videos for a raffle too. Very nice knife sharpener, torque wrench, tool set, very nice super capacitor jump starter and more!

What? As in MORR off road games? That'd be awesome!

I saw this on Matt’s video this morning. Project Farm at the Off-road Games - VERY IMPRESSIVE!

You at Matt's Offroad games?? Awesome sir, glad you were invited and are going! I suggested you and I hope my suggestion was one of the tipping points for them to invite you!

@@gmccl yes, they are putting a four wheel driver with a RU-vidr! Should be fun.

Nutnfancy too, but he's been demonitized.

Scotty Kilmer?

​@@eds2825 Scotty Kilmer? The click bait car guy who answers every car related question with "just buy an old Toyota", that guy? That old fool is a clown.

Fuck Scotty. Dude is ignorant as hell or a liar. Stood next to a 10th Gen civic and said they intentionally put a small battery in it to sell more batteries when the battery in the vehicle is the same p/n that's used for that style engine for the last 15 years. ​@@eds2825

@@ant0n0vich yeah he's no different than any other shameless, cringe clickbait channel

Thanks!

I love him, I just hope he talks slower to his wife.

​@@jakester455Dude is all about efficiency.

@@ProjectFarm Corded and cordless heat gun tests needed.

Thanks!

Thanks, will do!

same- need an app though !! i would pay $10-$15 /y for the app even

Same here

I really like the concept of this channel but i cant help feeling overwhelmed when i hear him talking 😅 anyone else?

@@itzikca nah its just you. you can set the speed slider to 0.75x if you are having difficulty.

@@itzikca There's a lot of information to convey, especially as @Project Farm typically is testing quite a lot of products instead of just a few. But it is very consice and clear. There's little to no superfluous information here. It's edited to make the delivery fairly rapid fire to keep the video length down. The consice rapid delivery is what make this channel work and is what enables @Project Farm to review so many products week in week out.

​@@meson183I agree his older videos with less editing and slower pace feel like MOLASSES compared to his modern videos and yet nothing of value is cut out and everything is still delivered clearly. Hes really completely optimised it to the best it can be.

Did the same…. This dude is a science beast

Great feedback on the Bosch M42. Great set for the price!

I am a fan of Drillhog and Viking. Nothing can compare to either brand out of a big box store and both are USA made. Worth the cost IMO as you can sharpen them occasionally and they hold up as long as you don't smoke them with too much heat. Using them day to day and holding an edge after being sharpened for a long time is my gauge of quality. Nothing like cheap drill bits to have me cussing in the garage. 🤣

@@hgbugalou Amen to that.. that's why I keep Kobalt titanium coated for mild steel and aluminum. But I keep Bosch m42 for everything else. I have bought one box of each in the past year and I have not had to go out and buy drill bits in that year. And I can tell you I have probably drilled well over a thousand holes easily.. I work for a company (To Witch is the only company in the world that does this) that makes concession trailers foldable bleachers 10 /12 /15 row an 8 row and stages(3 different types) All portable by good size regular Truck an can be operated by 1 person... I make 90% of all the parts for all of them. Taking out water jet, plasma table, sheer(witch I use) and Break press. So drill bits are essential to my livelihood.

@@ProjectFarm Thanks PF.. I want you to know a lot of what's in my toolbox at work is from watching your Channel as well as personal experience.. you have made a lot of people a lot more knowledgeable and a lot better at the things they do. That is something this world needs more than anything and I am happy to support you in any way that I am able

If your not using matco hyper step bits your missing out and lifetime warranty

Thanks for sharing.

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!

wait wait 5:17 is rust visible straight ftom the box? when I would get drill bits, I’d put money down on Irwin/Bosch. would using an industrial drill press overestimate elapse time? I presume 80% would use a drill motor ? would you also include Harbor Freight & Craftsman Tools in future tests? ❤ these test, thank you Very Impressive

​​​@@98167you can't beat chinese M35 cobalt drill sets for their price. I've used those for years. Only metric as far as I know though. A set of 25 pieces from 1-13mm costs under 30€ including shipping and VAT on a good day. So 1/3-1/4 the cost the same drills would cost in the local cheapo store.

Thanks!

I agree, some companies will also change materials of their products to increase profit margins which can reduce the item's quality dramatically.

Thanks, will do!

Thanks so much!

Denmark 🇩🇰? Never heard of it, lol.

I'm from the UK and I also see Duracell Man

Thanks, will do! Thanks for the feedback.

I value the experience of older people. I hope your leadership respects your 65 years of experience. I agree with you, maintenance is more cost-effective than just buying a lot of new bits.

​@@johnnysimes5082 It depends... In my younger days I worked for a machine shop for about 6 months, and we used tons and tons of drill bits, in various sizes, and also thread cutting taps. The company bought them directly from the manufacturer in Germany, and they only paid a fraction of the price that a normal person would have to pay, because they bought them in bulk, like thousands and thousands of drill bits and taps at a time, and they saved about 90% on the retail prices - it would not have been economically viable to have someone employed to re-sharpen the drills.

At my job we have an old Darex SP2500 drill sharpener, that thing is great. A perfectly sharp drill with a perfect split point every single time in no time at all. The newer Darex machines are expensive, but they last forever. So that might be something to look at. Also, I'm with the other guy: every shop needs a greybeard. The guy that taught me to machine passed away unexpectedly only half a year after I started. I can get a lot done on my own, but there's just no substitute for the kind of experience someone like that brings to the table. Wish he was still around.

It's a pleasure to "meet" someone who cares about their place of employment and wants to leave it "in better shape than I found it". I'm sure you will be missed when you retire.

My pleasure!

Thanks so much!

Thank you very much!

Great point!

"I needed this, marketing has gotten absurd." Fixed it for you. 😁

As a Machinist I prefer carbide drills. They are brittle but retain their edges far better than Cobalt and HSS.

@@ProjectFarmif they used TURBOCAM’s TX1 diffusion treatment, I think they’d hold up even longer

Thanks, will do!

Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Cryo treatment just fully converts the existing Martensite? to harder compounds. Itll greatly increase the wear resistance but also make the bits more brittle/less forgiving to off axis loads. I thought you were about to tell management, "Yeah I have a great idea how to extend the life of the drill bits to several times these.... BUY THE OLD ONES YOU NONCE" 😂

Brass shouldn't wear down milling equipment if it's properly designed and kept cool. Same with aluminium.

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

That is interesting. I have seen several times the scenario where the new company is less competent but more convinced of their superiority. Were you hand drilling? What is navy brass vs regular brass?

@@ronfox5519 the drilling was done with a custom made, automatic machine. Brass is Copper and Zinc, Navy Bass is Copper, Zinc and Tin.

Thanks so much!

Thanks and you are welcome!

LOL ! same here

Thanks and you are welcome!

Yeah ,me too😊

This guy does a lot of testing for us he doesnt get the respect. He shoukd review automotive durability because i like his closer attention to the details he actually painstakingly crunches the data

You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.

If the older me could go back to the younger me and tell myself "pay the piper and get a good set of bits" I'd have more money in my pocket. Cutting tools are one of those deals where you really get your money's worth. But it's also important to know how to drill. High speed in metal = dead bit. Slow, steady, and quite a bit of force is the way to go.

Thanks, will do!

You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.

Solder and electrical connection test but b4 testing there is different ways to twist the wires together b4 soldering and use double wall heat shrink.

You are welcome! Thanks for the constructive feedback.

Yeah, but how do you sharped the Milwakee and DeWalt? Unless they will also sell some expensive sharpening machine.

​@@FlorinArjocuif you are using a belt sander grind the flat with the flat part and grind the curved part with the rounded over part at the very front. If you're hand filing, using a flat file and a round file should do the trick.

MANY off brand drill bits will perform totally different. I used to buy CHEAP HSS and solid cobalt bits, when they were pretty much all USA made... Hanson-Ace, Century, and many others.... They immediately got resharpened before putting into service, as they were optimized for production speed, not performance. I think they are getting a bit better, even if most are from China, to give good, if not optimal performance. Drill Doctor will make drill bits last until they are too short to use anymore. Even one that snaps at the tip, can be rejuvenated. Just do not let it cook to cherry red on a bench grinder. Keep it cool.... get shape close to proper, and finish on Drill Doctor.@@ProjectFarm

​@@FlorinArjocuyou take a grinder and knock those special nubs off of them and sharpen them like a regular drill bit. That drill Dr. Will make a drill bit out of anything.

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

lol

I see what you did there 😂 Dad.

Thanks!

I am really surprised ho much better it did than the other brands when sharpened!

That's exactly what I thought!

It must’ve left the factory with a poor sharpening job or the angles were not correct. It makes all the difference, and the tests show that. That drill bit brand just needs some better tempering and metallurgical work. So brittle.

​@@skullfracture2 so the only problems with those drill bits are bad metal and bad sharpening. Everything else is fine. 😂

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks!

Thank you!

You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.

Thank you!

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion.

Nice! You are welcome!

I'm just the opposite. I don't want to sacrifice my good drills on spring steel! I don't mind dulling them because I have a sharpener, but I don't want to snap my good drills! My Warrior M35 usually come through without a scratch.

Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks!

Thanks!

What, how the hell lol Only time I break a bit is if I'm twistin and tweakin my drill

@@alextheonewarrior 1/32", 1/64" bits break easy. looking at them might break them. thinking he's talking about those. now i'm a woodworker that'll split logs, mill them to workable wood in my shop, and make a jewelry box out of logs i get. some, well all the wood i use for said projects are very hard woods. add that to fine hardware, hinges for doors for example, the screws are brass or stainless steel, and very VERY tiny, i need an 'eyeglass screwdriver kit to put them in, soft metal that the wood alone will wear the threads right off the screws. and have to have pilot holes drilled. i use irwin bits because when one breaks, they're cheap to replace. but still good and long lasting.

I've broken only a few small-diameter bits (1-3mm). I've dulled a lot more because I'm an idiot as far as drilling metals is concerned and don't have a drill-press.

Lol...I've had some Chinese made bits (gifts) actually completely unwind instead of breaking 😀 Best option is still to buy individual bit sizes in packs from a reliable supplier to production machine shops--they are usually an order of magnitude better than most "homeowner" brand bits.

@@alextheonewarrior Breaking bits usually happens when you put radial load on them, drill bits are very hard but brittle, so instead of bending they just snap. So JC likely is pushing at an angle when drilling.

You are welcome!

Thanks!

You are welcome!

i think i bought a bosch set just because of his first video. his stuff is always appreciated.

I bought that set years ago based on that video. Glad to see it’s still recommended. Truth is, I don’t drill through metal that much as I’m a woodworker but I have proper wood bits for that. The Bosch have been able to do anything I’ve asked. They work a lot better in a drill press though as it can be hard to generate the downward pressure with a hand drill.

I use that same set of Bosch out here in the oilfields in West Texas. They have performed flawlessly, even though I do not have any need for them to drill ultra-hard materials. I also use Drill Hog's Premium Pig Steel and Niobium-steel drill bits as well. I'm glad I'm getting my money's worth.

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

Is the Drill Doctor able to properly sharpen those Cobalt pilot style bits as well 🤔

The drill doctor isn't that great. You can do much better hand grinding with a bit of practice. It's worth practicing as you can then create many formed tools.

@@falsedragon33 I agree it has some shortcomings. That said, for the guy who doesn't own a grinder, this unit is decent and fairly easy to use. Ftr, I do get a very good edge on my drills and they been holing up well to my abuses.

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks, will do!

Our pleasure!

You are welcome!

You are welcome! Glad to hear!

I appreciate that! Thanks!

Thanks for sharing.

I've been involved in machining for 45+ years, they're the set I would purchase. Reasonable price, quality steel Huot case, appeared to suffer the least damage, made in USA by Cleveland Twist Drill, and are traditional 135° split-point so they don't walk as much and can be re-sharpened on my Black Diamond drill grinder. One aspect that wasn't covered was accuracy of the hole size. As the lips get damaged they will start pulling the bit off-center causing a poorer surface finish and a larger hole. I was also disappointed that one of my personal favorite manufacturers Chicago Latrobe weren't represented in this test. I have a C-L #1-80 drill index I've been using in my shop for 40 years on mostly mild steels and some 4140 and O1 tool steels. They've held up remarkably well, I've rarely needed to re-sharpen them. I've always use Rapid Tap cutting oil anytime I'm drilling steels (A1 on alum) which reduces drilling forces and greatly extends the life of the drill bit.

​​@@marcseclecticstuff9497 nowadays, the same company owns Cleveland, Cle-Line, and Chicago Latrobe. They're all functionally identical, and they all use the same lovely Huot cases. I started off my machining hobby with a set of Chicago Latrobe drills and didn't know how good I had it until I made the mistake of getting one of those godforsaken no-name import number/letter/fractional drill size kits. After I ruined at least 3 projects, I replaced it with the equivalent Chicago Latrobe kit, and the 3x price increase was well worth it. All this to say, it seems like the corporate merger of those three brands doesn't seem to have ruined the quality of them. Always nice when that happens.

@@marcseclecticstuff9497Yep! The holes have visible tool markings in just about all of them . When drilling metal cutting fluid should be uses more often then just a drop on the metal. That is the reason most production machines regardless of type have coolant tanks/sumps and pumps to ensure tool life.

@@danielbackley9301 Production demands are actually very different. The coolant certainly does provide some lubrication, but it serves 2 more important functions. First, it's for cooling the tooling. As the tool gets hotter it expands. If you have a big boring bar on a finish cut and it's really hot, you'll oversize the bore. This is also the reason why most CNC machine centers circulate oil around the outside of the spindle and run it thru a chiller to try to keep the spindle at a constant temperature. Some machines even use a chiller on the ball screw bearing blocks to keep their temperatures stable. Secondly, and more importantly in some cases, is chip evacuation. When drilling deep holes you have to keep the chips flushed out of the hole. If they pack around the drill it will start galling the inside of the hole and left unchecked will cause the tool to seize inside the bore and breaking the tool. Most of our machines have thru-coolant spindles with high pressure coolant pumps that feed them. Ours are typically set to 1000psi with the smallest tools, bigger tools with more or larger passages causes the pressure to drop down proportionately. We run a lot of gun drills, some as deep as 24" or so and if the thru-coolant fails, they will quickly start to gall and seize. Most modern production coolants use synthetic oils that emulsify in water and look like watery milk. It's nasty stuff for most plastics and rubbers. Plastics tend to get brittle and crack, rubbers suck it up like a sponge, expand, and turn into goo. I had a current probe attachment for my meter that sat in my toolbox that started cracking and falling apart after about 10 years. I'm very good about cleaning all my tools, especially my expensive test gear and it made no difference. Even being in my box in the maintenance department there is still enough coolant mist floating around to affect it. In my home shop I've never used coolant - too much of a PITA to deal with and I'm simply not in a big hurry to do things. For instance, if I'm drilling a deep hole I simply withdraw the drill constantly to clear the chips. If I'm doing something that needs a high degree of precision, I make sure I let the part cool down before making a finishing cut to size. I've used Rapid Tap for the 40+ years I've been whittling metal at home, it's served me well. Not only does it reduce wear in tooling, it also reduces cutting loads. Try drilling a 1/2" hole in steel dry, then drill another using a good quality cutting fluid and the difference in feed pressure is quite noticeable. For tapping I prefer a dark cutting oil with a high sulfur content. Unfortunately, the stuff I've tried in the past 20 years just doesn't work nearly as well as the stuff I used to get in the late 70's and 80's so I just use Rapid Tap now. At work they stock Cimtap which I never really cared for. It's very sticky so it stays on the tool, but it also sticks to the ways of the machine, collects fines and they get drug under the wipers and trash the machine ways. Not an issue for true machinists who would keep the ways cleaned off, but in a factory full of Bubba's that are too lazy to wipe their own a$$, it's a machine death sentence.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thank you for sharing!

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thanks and you are welcome!

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

Your grandpa made some good bits. Clevelands are legit.

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing. Sorry to hear of your father passing.

Indeed they are. That kind of quality is something we took for granted until modern times. Never would have thought that it would become common to get entire sets or packs that were not properly sharpened. The one in this test that wouldn't cut is a common example.

@@ronfox5519 what you're experiencing is called survivor bias. What's good tends to outlast what's not good. That can give one a false impression that everything in the past must have been good because that's all that remains today. But they had garbage dumps in the past and they used them. If something was real junk it got junked. The good stuff they tended to hang onto more. Every now and again some real trash does manage to survive though and I've seen it and even have some of it. Like a set of Made in Japan twist drills that get dull drilling soft wood. The steel in them is just that bad. You could tie those bits in knots. Truly horrible stuff.

@@1pcfred You must be a real hoot at parties.

Glad I could help!

You are welcome!

You are welcome!

I'm feeling serious workshop envy

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for sharing!

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for the feedback.

Real HSS makes a difference, the DeWalt probably uses genuine HSS. Lots of the drills falsely claim to be HSS and they're just cheap carbon steel alloy.

Thank you very much!

Thanks for sharing.

Specifically reading thru comments for stainless steel references as I couldn’t get through tiny SS 1/8th thick bracket with any of numerous random bits. Likely buying the Spyder Stinger Mach-Blue 10-Piece Assorted High-speed Steel bits from Lowe’s today since daily deal is $10 off for $29.98 price. Any experience with those? I wish @ProjectFarm had tested those or maybe does a Stainless based test later on.

Thanks!

I agree, and I like your name, it reminds me of something 🤣

Thanks! Thanks for sharing!

You are welcome! Glad to hear!

Thank you for sharing!

Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing!

Vacuum insulated water bottles? Those were

Yes indeed! Great suggestion! Thank you

@@Spectrum184 I was thinking more along the lines of a Thermos bottle which is different. Thanks for a chance to clarify.

Thanks!

You are welcome!

Thanks and you are welcome!

Definitely pilot points for thin material.

@solarsynapse especially if you are drilling the hole for a rivnut, or some type of thread insert.