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@@nathencosgrove877 Interesting, I'm not new to the hobby but definitely new to crawlers. I hadn't considered parts like that breaking. I have a hopped up trx4 blazer. Super cool truck but I didn't build it, other than the upgrades. I've been thinking about getting a kit. I will consider what u said about the portals on the Gen8. Thanx👍
I love this guy so much he is so calm all the time and he help so much and tell everything that even a noob understands it. Hes like and looks like the Yakooza of the RC world.
I just got rid of the body and I am just running a cinder block. Just climbed Is mt. everest last week trx4 climbed right over the top with no problem! Highly recommended good luck crawlers!
Yup. We said that about two years ago and it still holds. In fact, Traxxas deleted a bunch of components from the Defender and came up with the TRX-4 Sport, one of the best performing trail crawlers available today.
I agree 100% yet I believe strongly that 4 things are critical to the experence. 1. Reasonable body armor to address structural vulnerabilities. / 2. Advance light kit for sanity. / 3. Affordable Telemetry for IQ points. / 4. Sound for audio feed back of performance. I control the breaking in the App. Steering servo range is set. Using the 5,000mA batt for a short time will extend its life a bit especially if you have the electronic upgrades. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND EVERYONE KEEP THEIR STOCK BODY IN THE SHED AND USE A CLEAR BODY WHEN IT'S NOT SHOW ROOM TIME. Singed, The Guitarists Opinion.
One thing to mention going to softer springs droop setup you are more likely to experience shock stiction making the truck lean on way or the other at rest. There are a few videos that explain the DIY mods to eliminate/reduce stiction of stock shocks that are once again free mods. Great video as always RC Review!
Tip: if crawling in cold temperatures (below 5 Celsius) you might want to get larger capacity batteries due to you needing more wheel spin sometimes when stuck in snow. My experience with a 1300mah 3s battery lasts about 20-30 mins and in warmer temps it lasts about 40-80mins
I just got the Traxxas Bronco and I've been enjoying your videos! Thank you for taking the time to make them. I changed out the shock oil to 10W, what shocks do you recommend to get? Please tell me the brand and the spring rate. Thanks for any help! P.S. I had a really hard time changing out the shock oil and getting it to rebound properly etc. Could you please make a video showing how you change the oil in these exact Traxxas shocks? Almost all of the videos I found are made with shocks that have a bladder at the top that these don't have. Thanks again!
Right on. Since the piston hole is so small on Traxxas, we recommend shock oil of 10wt. Don't fill it too much as it will lock up. Stop about 2mm below the top.
All great info, but it would be easier (and cheaper) to just buy a TRX-4 Sport since it comes out of the box already stripped of the lock/unlock diff capabilities.
I flipped my running boards up side down! Trimmed the body right above the running board sticker on the sides and wahala the body tucks right in on both sides!!! No extensions needed!
Your vids are fantastic. Thank you. I swear my trx4 had complete hill hold in sport mode when I first got it. Now it just rolls instead of holding. Although, I've dressed it with quite a bit of brass - outer portal, bumper mounts, steering links. Still trying to bring back the original hill hold. Must have to use crawl mode.
If you run in a lot of dust or muddy water it will wear on your brushes pretty quick. The motor creates all your drag brake. Mine didn't last very long lol
What that delivers is droop and articulation and allows the tires to reach up and articulate. Very limited use though. It's much better do run soft springs and control the droop yourself
Even in a situation of pure crawling, there is room to use unlock diff, when you need better and more accurate steering! The turning radius with open diff is smaller. Also to attack obstacles in a scale way, obstacles realistic with this kind of vehicule, it is a greater challenge and fun to try it first open diff, and after with lock diff! Also for the 2 speed transmissions, in some case you need some faster momentum to pass an obstacle, and the 2nd gear comes in handy then!
unlocking the diffs during crawling just makes things more difficult I'm finding. It's more of an interesting challenge but it has no benefit whatsover. I'm finding now that the 'tighter steering radius with unlocked diffs' doesn't really help. At crawl speeds, it makes almost no difference. Ath higher speeds, over 1 mph, it makes a difference.
Luke AtThat yeah, I agree. In my garage (moved some rocks in bc it’s cold) there are instances where I tried locked and unlocked and only make it with rear unlocked. Then there is my son who uses 2nd gear and jumps the logs we can’t cross trailing. In his tactical he tries 1st a few times and then 2nd gear and he crosses logs and obstructions that my wraith won’t bc of wheel speed and then I got a defender for me and I love it. Part of the fun is the high cg and watching it lug around the spare.
Very nice Video! I see this Video again and again. Today I got my TRX-4 in the red Defender Edition and it's so cool! I drove in the forest with a friend. Very nice Video and good tips!
Hey man great video, I just commented on “deleting” in your upgrade video before seeing this: love all these tips. I cut off my spare tire and accessory mounts off the rear which is permanent but keeps the frame integrity...but the shift servos can always go back in!
I like the way you present your video. It's to the point and very clear and that's why I have subbed. Another very cheap mod is to switch the stock pinion for a 9T pinion. This provides more control at low speed and adds torque at the wheels.
Yo I have most of this but I didn’t know specifically oil weight or how far to go and the moving of the sliders. That held me back bad yesterday in a few places. FWIW in 1st gear my stock geared defenders slightly pulled away from a stock scx 10 unimog. It is a low 1st gear none the less and I didn’t pull away much. That rig gave me a run for my money with a less experienced driver than I. K realized the difference in his short and my long wheelbase also. Weight is so different also that even my trx4 bronco doesn’t act like the scx10. So different but so comparable.
Thanks. I have the red Defnder and want scale, forest and crawling. Your vids give me some great ideas to pursue. Forget the negative comments out there. Some can't help themselves. These vids are all about what you can take away.
Also mention those who want to just drive their rc don’t delete the servos, leaving your diff locked at all times will absolutely destroy your gears and suspension
I just bought trx4 bronco My lhs told me I don't need 5000mah battery cause it's last hours. I said " good" can go hiking and take breaks off and on to play in areas all day and stay away from wife 😂🤣😂🤣
Delete, delete, delete..... I can understand what you are saying, but that is only applicable if you want something capable regardless of looks. For me biggest appeal to RC Crawling is that it should still look like something you will find on the road/off road on a track. Removing everything and putting a simple lexan body on is not considered an upgrade. If you want something capable just buy a comp crawler, if you want a trail truck it should at least still look like a truck.
agree. It is a good option though and Traxxas has since released several kits where they deleted these things to improve performance. Good to give owners that option.
Should this video not have a title called ‘free crawling mods’ , I bought my TRX4 mainly for trailing the forests and not rock crawling. I understand that these mods will optimize crawling performance but most of your suggestions like adjusting the bumper position or installing sagging shocks will alter the scale look of the vehicle. Deleting the servos that offer you options of high/low gear , selective diff locking etc are what make the TRX4 stand out from 90% of the crawlers out there, When I want to crawl I use my old axial , the beauty of the TRX4 is for scale crawling and realism in mini format.
Good point. Changing the springs and shock oil is key for trail running as well. The stock setup hardly actuates and the vehicle bounces around. Also, anything done to lower the CG will improve performance on the trail too. Any free mods you would suggest for running the TRX4 on the trail?
Correct me if im wrong, but s heavier battery, down low on the frame and in the center, does that not increase your lower center gravity point, due to pushing center frame down more, also helping give better traction? Maybe im missing something or just not remembering properly(i got to pick mine up this week, its been 6 years since my last RC
I would just buy a dedicated crawler comp rig. The TRX4 is awesome because of its features, This is why I own other crawlers so that my tax can be my trail rig.
So do you know of anyone running sand or talc in their tires? Thats how they do it on my (Kubota) tractor for counterweight as well as stability and it works awesome. Think I might try it today! (Edit: tractor tires about half to 2/3 full of a heavy talc material if I recall)
That’s an interesting concept. I’m sure he will help as long as the drivetrain can take a look. Most people just use weights usually lead so it’s more dense.
RC Review I am actually going to try copper bbs in my Losi night crawler tires. It should offer a lot of weight and they should stay at the bottom half of the tire while crawling.
Are you looking for the best for crawling? or the Best for trails and some crawling? The Sport is generally accepted as the best out of the box for crawling, but it's also only one speed and slower so you lose some of the frills of the other rigs. It all depends on what you want to do with it and ultimately whatever puts the biggest smile on your face is what you should get.
I would like to know the best stock 1:10 scale crawler I don't have the money to buy all the things you talk about I just want to buy a truck and go out and have fun. But great video's.
on the locking t-lock just leave them locked then its a free thing for that , that or buy the trx model that does not have tlocks and that also saves alot of money to on buying the trx with the lockers ..
That is not a bad idea. For reliability and weight, some remove the servo and linkages and put a spacer on the locker mechanism to make sure it never fails under stress.
@@RCReviewChannel i used to have a summit 1/10 my wife still has hers and it takes years of hard abuse to kill a Tlock even on thats truck unless you run in hi speed with them on then you can kill them really fast but under normal use takes years for a tlock to fail. i prefer the tlocks my self even on the trx..
No estoy de acuerdo en lo de anular el sistema de bloqueo de diferencial... Yo uso el trx4 para crawler duro, y a veces va bien poder desbloquear los ejes en pasos complicados donde hay que girar cerrado y maniobrar... Tengo tanbien un scx umg, siendo más corto y apto para el trial, sin embargo, en el mismo sitio, puede pasar mejor el trx4. Espero que se me entienda en castellano... Congratulation for the channel. Saludos.
Love the channel , what spring colours would you recommend for the Defender front and back and also what colours for the sport front and back ? I've heard 10 weight up front and 20 weight in the back is a good setup , but will this work for the heavier Defender body ? Any help would be appreciated , look forward to next video 😃👍🏻👏🏻
My TRX Tactical (LWB) I have the lift kit and I use Team Associated 15w front and rear 4mm spacers (stock limiters removed) stock springs work fine on mine around 8-10lbs depending on the body used that day (Defender, Tactical, Bronco, F150) and Tires/Rims That's just me though.
White front, yellow rear. 10 wt front, 20 rear. We've hear the piston holes on the Defender are smaller than the Sport. Adjust ride height as necessary.
Thanks Matthew and RC Review , would you think fitting the defender with the TRX4 sport pistons would give better results ? And has anyone tried this combination?
When you say 4mm on the spacers Matthew do you mean 4mm down the thread on each shock ? The manual states to run the left front with more pre load than the others due to motor offset weight , I still prefer running them all the same at 5mm all around on the sport and 7.5 on the defender ,,Does removing the limiters cause any downsides ? Thanks for the info Matthew 👍🏻
g9000 the spacers go on the outside under the shock body for longer shocks 110mm I'm not talking about removing the threaded shock preloader -- I adjusted mine 2mm rear and 4mm rear
I watch lots of your RU-vid videos Most very very helpful and we can find out better quality what to by what I spend I have a question some of this RC hobbies it’s very expensive and quality is not good at all or there will be something wrong somewhere it’s pretty expensive not like before So what I have to tell can they make that even more money you can play with them with out putting parts or you can play long and make with better quality you don’t have run behind part’s and some of them not available in some country and some hobby shop online not all of them what ever is new you can find easy and I don’t want to paying extra money for anything everything is more money this days just my comments
So I just want my trx 4 sport for performance but don't want 10 minute run times. What 3s lipo size do you suggest? Should I get one that can go to the font of the truck? Or one that fits in the small spot in the stock tray
Hey boss. Do you have a link for the differential lockers. The ones you say you can buy to make them lock all time. I can’t seem to find them. If you can send it it’ll be great. Thanks boss
I just called traxxas and they said they haven’t heard or make anything to make them lock manually all the time. I’m guessing you figured out a way by yourself. Let me know. Thanks again
You buy a trx 4 for the features it has and he says take it off but he still has it all on his and free means it doesn't cost anything. these are my opinions so don't get but hurt
That's a good point. We delete weight from the top and add it to the axles or wheels to lower the center of gravity. Lowering the CG is the key to performance. Also, we deleted unwanted stuff if they are rarely used since they have been known to fail. (like diff servos)
Well boyzzz it’s simple Physics based on Center of Gravity.... Get rid of weight that’s higher on chassis. Add weight to low points to Lower the Center of gravity. Also, adding weight on the axles and wheels gives you traction and ballast.
@@tenncutt well if you want a trail rig get the broc or the def but for me I like the light weight lo profile crawlers and with the sport there's less to break lower center gravity and the gear and 2 speed usually go out pretty quick in the trail set up trx4 IMO
I have to stop watching your videos. In the past two months I got 2 SCX24s, a Redcat Gen 8 Axe Edition, and today I got a Traxxas TRX4 Bronco. My wallet is telling me to unsubscribe but I'm in too deep now. I'm glad my girlfriend is so supportive because I'd be in big trouble otherwise 🤣
@@RCReviewChannel it's been extremely rewarding. I have 3 little boys and they all LOVE RC cars. Im a newly single dad and work two jobs. I'm usually exhausted at the end of the day but this has given me a second wind and it gets us all outside together. When I brought home the Bronco my oldest son was SO excited that he was bouncing around non-stop and I'm pretty sure he didn't sleep last night. It is absolutely worth every penny to see them so happy and have quality time together in the great outdoors.
I understand this nonsense talking on a forum or a group, but on RU-vid, where so many people are watching you? Do you think there is a need to buy Savox, mamba and this ESC? I have traveled for 3 years on: WP 1080 Power HD 25KG 45T Chinese engine And nothing happened :). So why overpay?
We review those too. Sometimes folks like higher performance and reliability or configuration and r&d and support. Sometimes not. but good to have options.
We review those too. Sometimes folks like higher performance and reliability or configuration and r&d and support. Sometimes not. but good to have options.
Deleting the open diffs? somebody does not know crawling… Why do you think the first setting on the diff locking is FRONT LOCK/REAR OPEN???? This is to give a smaller turning radius on technical courses. You could get away with locking the front diff only but keep the rear selectable.
Turning radius is already tighter than anything in existence. At crawl speed, unlocking the diffs does very little for turning radius. It is more of an annoyance or a distraction. Here is a video with both diffs locked. Check the turning radius. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g3ujkjqpH2g.html
@@Wagenmeister Can confirm, my Wraith 1.9 turning radius sucks on flat ground. Just got the TRX4 Bronco today and the springs seem perfect and I love the selectable locking diffs. Helps a lot on flat ground.
