#ninefortyfour #tudor #gmt - So this is the Tudor Black Bay GMT. A 41mm, traveller GMT with classic vintage vibes! And the question’s simple. After five years is it still the best GMT watch for three and a half grand? And is it still worth your consideration?
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///WRITTEN REVIEW///
- Overview -
So the black bay GMT is a vintage inspired multi time zone watch based on the larger 41mm platform of Tudors popular black bay dive series! It’s design harks back to early Tudor and Rolex dive watches from the 1950’s along with early references of the Rolex GMT master, like the 6542
So clean looks, no crown guards and chamfered lug profiles! It’s a handsome watch, like all of the black bay range, especially if you’re a lover of vintage inspired designs! Classic looks combined with modern tech. That’s what this watch is all about! It’s almost perfect! But not quite!
- Size -
The black bay GMT comes in with a bezel and case diameter of 41mm, a lug to lug of 49.8mm and a lug width of 22mm. The thickness measures 14.6mm, broken down by a 2.5mm case back, 7.6mm flat case side, 2.5mm bezel and a 2mm crystal. It’s total weight, including this steel bracelet comes in at 174 grams.
In short this isn’t a petite watch! Although vintage inspired, it’s somewhat a victim of being designed in the early 2010’s, a time when among watches, bigger was better! Resulting in a slight juxtaposition compared to it’s vintage styling.
We’ll talk about wearability a bit later, but don’t be fooled by the 41mm diameter being the same as a modern submariner! Or the fact a Rolex GMT master two is only 1mm smaller… The wearability of these watches are worlds apart! Especially on a smaller wrist
- Design -
When it comes to the case design, we’re transported right back to mid twentieth century Rolex. That iconic side profile, delightful chamfered lugs and a clean no crown guard aesthetic! It’s a delightedly vintage throwback! And I’m totally here for it!
We have high polished case sides and bevels, mixed with brushed lug tops. All formed from 316L stainless steel. As a fan of vintage watches, especially those early Rolex Sub’s and GMT’s, I really appreciate what Tudor are doing with this and the whole Black bay range
- Movement -
Powering the black bay GMT is the in-house Tudor MT5652 automatic movement. A development from the original 41mm black bay caliber to include a date and GMT function. It features a 70hrs power reserve, a silicon hairspring to protect against magnetism and has a beat rate of 28800 vibrations per hour. Or 4hrz
The movement is a five position adjusted, COSC certified chronometer, meaning it should run no worse than -4 to +6 seconds per twenty four hours. In my experience, as with all in-house Tudors, the accuracy normally far exceeds this rating, with an average loss of just two seconds per day!
Obviously Tudor won’t want to outperform Rolex on paper, but in reality there is little, if any difference between them from what I’ve noticed. This is something that Tudor does so well! By this I mean value! The black bay GMT costs half a Rolex GMT master two, but in no way is this half as good!
- Wearability -
So how does the GMT wear? Well this is where it starts to fall down! For me at least, with my 16cm wrist! I’m 100% down with the look and vintage design! I really do love it! But I find myself constantly choosing to wear my black bay 58 instead!
It’s all down to it’s size. Specifically it’s bulk, which is directly related to its height and weight! Here you can see the watch on my 16cm wrist next to a selection of watches for a visual reference.
On the left we have the Tudor Black Bay 58. It has a diameter of 39mm, a lug to lug of 47mm and a thickness of 11.7mm
On the right we have a Tudor Black Bay Pro. It too has a diameter of 39mm and a lug to lug of 47. But like the GMT it too has a thickness of 14.6mm. In isolation, all of these watches seem to wear well. But as soon as you put the GMT next to the 58, the difference is stark!
- Verdict -
In short it’s a phenomenal watch that represents truly great value! Especially if you’re a fan of vintage models from Tudor or Rolex. For me, with my affection for watches like the Rolex 6542, the black bay GMT made complete sense! I’ve loved my time with it!
I’d still be happy with it now, if it weren’t for trying a black bay 58… to me that watch is almost perfect when it comes to size and wearability! I know it lacks the functions of the GMT, but I reach for it time and time again over this GMT, even when I travel!
But don’t let my small wristed thoughts put you off though! If you’re considering the GMT in its current form, try one on! If you have larger wrists, and don’t mind the thickness, you might just find a vintage styled offering from the Rolex family that does it all! Epic watch!
31 янв 2024