Extremely helpful--lucid and not long-winded for efficient communication. One thing I'd like to know more about: the 'cleanability' of various plastics. I note that some of my spectacles over the years are easier to clean than others, and seem to develop a haze quickly. Am I just imagining this?
Hi Dr Michael, quick question, from your professional perspective, is there much discrepancy between different brands of lenses please? Hoya, Essilor, Zeiss, etc.?
Thank you so much, Dr. Nelson. This is very helpful. It's challenging to find direction concerning quality readers. I have contacts and due to my age (57) I need a reader in low-light situations. I also wear them while reading (which is a lot). Do you have a recommendation for those of us who want to invest in a quality pair of readers?
I think Trivex would possibly be a good option for you. It's a bit difficult when your prescription is over say 4, because lenses get heavier and thicker. While Hi Index 1.67 is nice and light and thin, it's definitely not very good when looking around the edges at least on larger size lenses. Trivex is a good compromise, and also if a more rounded style works for your face type (yes, I recently learned that's a thing) then more rounded glasses and smaller lenses definitely help reduce distortion. ~Michael~
Happy to help! A number of companies have 'golf' lenses. Here is my opinion, the best golf sunglass is not the same for everyone. It depends on what you are looking for. Are you trying to see you ball in the air better, are you trying to read the greens better, do you want something more comfortable, do you want to read you scorecard etc etc. I lot of people are looking for a golf tint to help them read the greens better and personally i feel it is a little bit of hype..first of all for most of us we are not good enough putters to make the putt even if you had the correct read. And if you are good enough you probably don't need tints to help you- look at if most of the pros read greens with sunglasses on or off. Find something that fits great and a tint you enjoy.
Thanks for your reply. I want to see the ball flight and I realize that the type of day, sunny vs cloudy, changes the tint needed. I’m looking for a scratch resistant quality lens for both regular glasses and sunglasses. I would appreciate your brand recommendation. Thanks again!
@@dblarue8611 yeah i think it can depend on the a blue sky or overcast sky and the colour of your ball. But if you want to track you ball in the sky you want to maximize contrast. So if blue sky you want a ball that is opposite to the sky and that would be yellow and then have a tint that blocks blue light and lets yellow through..that would be amber or brown.
I've just got single vision glasses 3 days ago (sphere -2.0 and cylinder -0.5 in both eyes), and this is the first time I've worn glasses (I've never worn contact lenses either). I understand that I need to take time to adjust to glasses, however I'm struggling with chromatic aberration where I'm seeing blue and yellow outlines on objects that aren't in my direct line of vision both horizontally and vertically. Even looking down at my phone through the bottom of my glasses is hard. I've read that the type of lens material can reduce this due to the ABBE number. I'm not sure what material I currently have as I was never asked by the opticians to choose a material, I was only asked to pick a frame. The frame I chose is similar to a classic rayban sunglasses frame. What ABBE value or lens material would you recommend for me to minimise or get rid of the chromatic aberration? Thank you in advance if you answer this.
Hey man, I make eyeglasses for a living so I might be able to help. Just based on your description, you most likely have polycarbonate lenses. They are the worst for those chromatic aberrations that you're seeing. Your prescription isn't anything crazy, so that gives you more options. If you can afford it, trivex is almost always the best option. In my opinion, it's about the best of the best, all things considered. It is typically the most expensive material, though. CR39 would be fine for your prescription and frame choice as well. It's much cheaper than trivex, and it will be thicker in your style of frame, but visual acuity will be very good and should greatly reduce the aberrations you're seeing now. Hope this helps.
I really wish I researched before getting glasses. I'm 50 and never wore any and now I'm in progressive lenses. The doctor and the one that does the fitting just gave me one option and said this is what we use ourselves and its the best. They gave me Varilux X in polycarbonate lenses. Crizal Sapphire HR and AR on the backside. I have a 1.0 astigmatism in my right eye and 2.0 in my left . - 0.75 for both at distance and +1.75 for both add for reading. I'm looking for the absolute best optical quality over shatter or break strength. My gut told me to go with zeiss when I first knew I would need glasses. After researching, I think I was right. Trivex seems to be a much better option than polycarbonate. Any thoughts on what would be best for me? Thanks
I think the option your eye doc suggested is actually pretty good. I think it checks all the boxes. Varilux X is Essilors best progressive, you got the best coatings. Polycarb is impact resistant. you are correct that the only change you could have made would be getting Trivex vs polycarb but I don't know if Varilux X comes in Trivex. I think you have a great lens.
Could you explain IFIS, and do alpha blockers especially Tamsulosin damage (atrophy) my iris dilator muscle. Lastly do alpha blockers affect my perception, my eyesight. Thanks!
Thanks, very interesting. How about the coating applied that starts peeling after 2 years? Are there different kinds of anti-reflective coating and any lenses that are more anti- reflective than others by default and don't need the coating?
Help me! Thank you so much for this video. I have a few questions. OD +0.25 x -2.00... OS -4.00 x -1.25... I'm one of those rare lucky ducks with completely different eyes. Zenni won't even make bifocals for me unless I knock the +0.25 down to plano. Currently, I have polycarbonate but they are so scratched. I guess 1.61 for those? I would do CR39 but guessing they'd be too thick? I'm also getting computer glasses, OD +1.75 x -2.00..... OS -2.75 x -1.25... Can I get away with cr-39? Is there a chart somewhere with recommendations for lens types based on prescription strength? Is the the sphere the only number that matters,l ehen deciding, or should the cylinder be factored in as well? Is it simple math, like +0.25 -2.00 = -1.75 ? Thanks, sorry for so many questions.
Which of the options mentioned would you recommend for a prescription of -3.5distance and +1.5near - if you’d choose a progressive with transition tint as well? I’d truly appreciate a fast response 🙏since I’ve to place the order as soon as possible (unfort. not in Canada, otherwise I’d have scheduled an app. with you🙂) Thank you very much in advance
-3.50. I would consider 1.6. You ccould get away with cr-39 if a small frame but 1.6 would be better. Lots of optons in 1.6 with Transitions tint and progressive lens.
I would recommend checking with some independent optometrists or opticians...a lot of people they are more expensive but when comparing apples to apples they typically are not.
I call 'Bullshit'. I wear glass lenses and have heard this story many times from opticians. I'm sure that glass is heavier than plastic, but I have never noticed the difference. I have dropped, sat on, and played sports in my glass lenses and have never had a problem. Glass is more expensive, and I think that is the case because it's not sought after often, and they don't need to be replaced until your prescription changes. Plastic lenses need scratch resistance and invariably cost at least $40 extra, and it does not prevent scratches. Do yourself a favor and purchase real glass lenses; you will never return to the inferior plastic pushed on the public since 1983.
Touché! At last somebody speaks the REAL truth about plastic lenses. People got brain washed. Plastic is flimsy and very cheap material to mass produce. Just think about camera lenses, binoculars, rifle scopes etc. All quality optics are made of real optical glass, never plastic or poly etc. It's totally marketing BS to warn about glass lenses. I have a small collection of Bausch & Lomb era Ray-Ban's. They all have glass lenses and never crackle or chipped, not a single one. And they are still scratch free. Not bad for 50 years old glasses.
I know you already answered my previous question , however I'm returning the progressives and getting SV lenses. Very low prescription of -0.75 with a -1.00 & -2.00 cylinder. I'm looking for the balance between great optics , great field of view that will work in a no drill semi rimless frame . Trivex , Cr39 or 1.60 ? I will be adding a scratch, oil , moister , AR coating . Any bad effects adding to any of these choices ? Thank you, great videos!
@@GoodOptometryMorning thank you. I'm leaning towards trivex for the uv protection. Although I really like the idea of best optics next to glass with cr39 .
