BEST Master-Grade Gunpla For Beginners! 

Strike made it on the list!

Did you get an allergy test lately?

How about MG Barbatos ?😯 Any comment sir?😄

Yeah like the MG Reborns! i had fun building that. wait.

Never build MG Unicorn Gundam as your first gunpla kit, it's really hard to build I guaranteed you that

Amen brother

Did anyone ask ?

@@truthseeker9833 >Zaku states that the grade progression is bs >user says he agrees with it and explains what his grade progression experience was like I see nothing wrong here.

Me too brotha

@@truthseeker9833 Man it's almost as if responding to thoughts in the comments section with one's own thoughts on the same topic is the primary and intended function of RU-vid comments or something.

I agree! I think it’s not about thinking beginners are dumb, but about developing a feel for the models and as you said, not butcher an expensive kit. I myself started with Hg’s and still wished i practiced more before wrecking my first Mg🤣

I bought an Amazing Strike Freedom as my first kit and I'm so glad I got to learn the hobby on a model kit I ended up hating with a passion :D Even then It came out pretty ok. After that I built RG Sazabi after many recommendations and of course I screwed up one of the arms, which is a notorious problem on that kit and the overall lack of info on the issue online has made me kinda lose trust in a lot of reviewers. I think if I had some more HGs under my belt I would be able to identify the problem and fix it before I snapped the parts together. And to rectify the problem (even if probability of someone in need reads this is 0) - the issue is in the chest unit part, step 05-2 when you attach the arm joints to the G26 part. In case of my and many others - the swiveling connection between the arm joint and the chest frame is far too tight and this will result in you twisting the pegs off when you will pose the arms. I've managed to fix one of the arms by scraping some of the plastic from the inside of the peg that connects the pieces, making the connection a bit looser, but still tight enough that it holds position firmly. You could also sand down the peg instead of using my scraping method. I've heard people using some kind of lubricant on that part, like Vaseline, but I can't attest how good that solution is, IMO making the connection less tight by removing some of the pretty thick material is perfect for this particular problem. Unfortunately I was able to save only one of the arms, the other isn't completely broken, but it just kinda... hangs a bit. :< So the moral of the lengthy story (kudos if you've read this whole thing) - IMO screwing up on cheap model kits you may not have as much emotional attachment to before moving onto a design you really want may be a very smart move. In my case - Freedom is one of my favourite designs and making the amazing version I don't care much about combined both sides of the argument - I'm still making a variant of a design I like, while not feeling down if I screw stuff up.

@@ThatDjinn I didn’t know that happened with the Rg Sazabi🥺 and I feel! I regret doing the mg phenex as one of my first because not only is it finnicky, but I didn’t know how to assemble many parts and I snipped some pegs, as well as putting stickers on it😩 i dont regret hg’s i built that way, but the phenex haunts me😂😂

@@alejandromagana9327 Indeed, the most important thing is to not get discouraged by your first kits and I feel like dumping a bunch of money for an MG and then ruining one can really hurt the feels.

@@ThatDjinn absolutely. At the same time though, my Phenex fiasco kinda motivates me to be better with every kit I build🤣🤣

Sadly a lot of gundam kits have bullshit prices right now unless you can preorder a reissue. Thanks Covid.

Really, that kit’s expensive now? I remember getting one for like 15 bucks back during an HLJ winter sale a few years ago. Me and a friend who also bought it to fill out big boxes because cheep ended up calling it the Amazing Red Impulse Buy. I’d suggest just give it time and watch various sites like HLJ for a restock and jump on it then. I had to do that with the MG The O, it took like two years of watching for a restock, so be patience and you won’t have to pay scalper prices.

Huh, I didn't realize it jumped in price. I got mine about a year ago at Barnes and Noble. It is a solid build, but that backpack is a pain to pose.

100 dollars isnt insane price thats what i just paid for mine

@@freddyaycart2914 just cause you paid that price doesn’t mean that’s not expensive for that kit. Definitely insane, double the price

I'm interested in this. I'm experimenting when it comes to painting my own Gundams and mechas. I'm not a pro at all, but I like it. I even have a Madworks airbrush now and I have to buy a good compressor for it. But until now I've been buying Tamiya for plastic spray cans to modify or make my mobile suits a bit different. Sometimes I just change colors or add more detail, anyways, my question is; do you thing a MG such as the Rick Dom could be nicely painted with my Tamiya cans? I really feel it's going to be a simple kit, or at least it looks kind of simple, but at the same time cool and I don't like to have a lot of similar MS. Another thing is, I normally use my surfacer, then I paint it the color(s) I want it to be, I put a gloss finish to them to pannel line them with the Accent Color without damaging the underneath paint, but I've seen people painting the kits and then adding the pannel lining with no gloss coat in between, yet they're still able to brush it off easily and it looks so so cool. I don't know if that's something I can achieve only with the airbrush or if it is a matter of the way I paint my model kits... (which is pretty much learnt from this "ZakuAurelius guy", lol. Greetings from Spain.

@@jasonex4027 Honestly from what your describing as your process for customizing I’d say you should be able to achieve good results, I’ve been using cheap aerosol cans of paint from a local hardware store and can get decent results, so with some nice tamiya spray paints and your other supplies you should be well set up to get good results. Some reasons why an airbrush is nice is that it’s like spray paint can but with more control and precision, it’s also a bit cheaper in the long run overall, and it’s certainly better for the environment since your buying cans of spray paint which probably don’t get recycled.

@@jasonex4027 Personally, I have definitely had some trouble fully removing excess panel liner after airbrushing if I don't get a solid gloss coat, although I am using acrylics instead of lacquers. I have also seen people get away without the gloss coat in videos - but I think they are usually using some kind of lacquer, which may have a different finish than what I've using, not to mention be far more durable.

Master Grade Gn Archer when

It looks like Bandai is making an effort to get more “out there” designs as master grades though!

@@soggysoles2872 they absolutely do. No hate for Exia or Wing... but I think we have enough of them lol

@@mattterrell4304 But we really need an Exia 2.0. It cannot hold its shoulders in pose.

@@pangzhiyu8098 I can't argue that, I'd welcome another exia for that reason

Since articulation was one of the criteria, I didn't think F91 would make it to the list. I was really not expecting Proto Zero though since the new Wing Zero came out which was an all round superior kit, but I guess the proto zero is really quite and has no issues.

Painting is optional, your argument makes no sense

@@truthseeker9833 I'm not talking about painting. I'm talking about breaking parts. Although painting would also apply

You make it sound like MGs are really fragile and obscenely complex.

@@eins2001 nah I'm just stupid enough to put parts together backwards then break them trying to fix it and I used to be a lot worse

I went with MG because of that inner frame and, to me, they seem higher quality than HG and are the "right height" without it being too big or small. I'm just about exclusively an MG builder.

This is about also the same reason I build more MGs, the articulation, the frame and details for a more reasonable price.

That was mine, too. Followed that up with the MG Master Gundam and Shining Gundam

For me, unfortunately it fell apart... so for a replacement, going to get the HG version

Great build - really good and actually quite quick one. Be very careful of the feet... They tend to break on that cursed hook connector...

Nah it’s to unique I think it’s for people who’s bored of a regular mg kit

My first kid was a boy! 👍 😆

Alex isn't RE100 though. That might not have been what you meant but it was really easy to misunderstand. I do agree that the NT-1 is a great kit, but man are those wrists tight, maybe a bit too solid.

@@pangzhiyu8098 the RE thing was a joke, but yeah, i agree. The Alex and the Duel fro me were so "solid" that i struggled taking them apart for painting. Especially the joints. They are great to build, but if you wanna paint them later, good luck not breaking them xD.

@@dunka12 I broke the wrist, both of them. It is staying on there with cement and I am never touching them again. It was that solid, and I wasn't even trying to disassemble them, I was merely trying to change the pose and twisted the wrist, I was wondering why it refused to turn so I applied a bit more force and "pop", off it came. sigh

the alex 2.0 kit I definitely would not recommend. You have to sand the wrists down, then paint if it gets too loose. Also you need to hold the little yellow circles when attaching a part to the armor plate or else it will come to straight off. Not to mention the yellow circles you may need to cement in that are easy to loose.

Great choices! You'll love them!

Short version is MG Dynames is a great kit for any skill level

Good idea! 👍

A little advice from a fellow beginner who only got into the hobby over the past year (and now has a nice collection of HGs, MGs, RGs, and a PG): the color of the plastic is where I feel the most risk of marking comes in, and the larger scale + inner frame of MGs does a lot to mitigate that. The first MG I bought was the MG Epyon, a slightly older kit that is full of dark crimsons and off-blacks, daunting for sure. So I went out and picked up an MG Dynames (which is one of the best OOB MGs out there) and took a crack at that first. White outer frame over the usual grey inner frame gave me more time to get comfortable with it, and helped me realize how the construction of MGs makes hiding the nubs under other pieces/on the underside so much easier to engineer. Plus, you notice those tiny tiny nub marks a lot less when they're 1% of the total height of the model instead of 5%. I say take a shot at a kit you like and see what happens. After Dynames I picked up some better midrange nippers, and the rest is history lol.

I just got into gunpla and that's been my fear. I don't want to mess up a MG kit by having blemishes be it nub marks or stress marks. Currently figuring out how to clean up my kits that may looks a little rough.

RG is a hella more risky (especially the small parts though)

MG GM Sniper is built on the RX-78-2 2.0 frame, with the core block replaced with a more flexible middle. Most of the articulation is the same.

Nice work!

Good idea! I’ll think about that

Barbatos is one of the more complex MGs! Good on ya

@@ZakuAurelius thx bro💪🏾