All you need to change it to Ver:Ka is 1. 10x "No Step" decal 2. 10 x "Caution" decal 3. 10 x "EFSF@Zeon" decal 4. 10 x "Danger" decal 5. 10 x "Hot" decal 6. 10 x racing stripes with chrome paint Apply anywhere as desired.
Patience is definitely a huge one. If you are sitting there building the kit, and find yourself already thinking about the next step before you finish the current one; stop, and take a break. Be in the moment, and enjoy the build at every step. I built maybe 6-7 kits (got back into gunpla 4/22) before I realized I was doing that. Now I make sure to step away, and let it simmer for a bit before diving back in. Has helped tremendously in eliminating imperfections.
POSING! Yes! No point in expecting Bandai to make kits with great articulation if one is not going to take advantage of it! The derpiness from bad posing also just detracts from the whole experience as well. It's as much a building as a viewing experience.
And even if you're not one who likes to make dynamic crazy poses there's still making a really powerful, cool looking stand or crouch pose to keep it in that'll be impressive.
yeah, a lot of builders esp on reddit or insta, and sometimes reviewers puts the kits standing in a very derpy way. it takes away the awesomeness of the kits. u just need to spread the legs a little, twist the thighs outwards abt 15 degrees, put the chest forward, slightly bend the elbows, and head pointing down, and voila! cool standing pose
I've build like almost 80 kits since I re-started in 2014 (Gunpla, Zoids, Tamiya mini 4WD etc.). I have gained a lot of experience and tips from friends. One thing that I still want to try is scratch building. I've watched SO MANY videos about it and I just can't bring myself to start doing it. I'm just sharing lol its like 11pm here and I'm VERY sleepy.
I've done a few scratch builds and they are time intensive as hell, so don't be to ashamed about not starting it because it demands serious commitment. Hell, Zak here had to stop his Trash to Treasure series because of how intensive that project got.
Think of it like you were using construction paper as a kid doing arts and crafts just with pla plates instead. Choosing the thickness, drawing out your shapes, and cutting them out and gluing them together. Then sanding or filling or both, and then painting. Just like the construction paper it takes time, patients, and the correct tools but you can do it if you try. I would recommend something easy to start with and then work your way out to other more difficult designs. Happy building.
After all these years I still consider myself a beginner. I prefer straight building and make the panel lines with a mechanical pencil (they look pretty good actually). The only kit I ever fully painted was an NG Mercurius that I found at a second hand shop. Someone just ripped all the pieces of the runners, tried to build without looking at the instructions, and just threw the half built poor thing back in the box with the rest of the pieces. Plus I hated the bright red. He looks much better now (to my eyes at least).
Great video! I would add: don't try techniques for the first time on expensive kits! Like try weathering a cheap HG kit first rather than a $400 PG; you will have more fun, seriously! Also, be sure to buy lots of kits and always have a massive backlog in case Bandai decides to stop producing kits and only poops out P-Bandai for 6 months or so.
I just did my first panel line, got the cheapest HG that I could find; ended up going with the HG Barbatos Lupus. It turned out great, but it was still just practice before going on to the RG RX-93-v2 Hi-Nu- I've just started working on that one.
Ive built quite a few kits by now and still dont feel comfortable making a custom gundam yet, however i gotta say the 30 minute mission kits are quite easy to mix and match; find enough kits the same color and you dont have to paint either.
When it comes to customs you just gotta jump in on a simple repaint and go from there. That’s how I started and now I’ve got some custom parts, a few kitbashes, etc.
The trick is to experiment on cheap kits that you don't care about. Grab some no grade wing/g-gundam kits from the 90s and experiment with the hobby saw, dremel, clippers, sanding etc. That goes for learning to paint too. Edit: You might even find some broken kits in thrift store toy bags. I've certainly seen some.
one of the biggest common mistake for me is "you forgot to put the polycap/that part inside that part".... I've already built more than 20 kits and this common mistake always ALWAYS happens LMAO
Or you use that slightly wrong peice and then have to get it apart enough to replace it. You see a gun handle so you put on a gun; then you realize it’s upside down or it’s the wrong handle for that gun.
Acrylic paint being “weaker” than enamel and lacquer paint does not mean acrylic paint can be rubbed away with with acrylic or enamel thinner after it dries
Like everything, it's using the right paint for the job. Vallejo makes an acrylic line specifically for mecha painting that is more durable and has a better bonder than the other lines which are specifically for mini wargaming and model kits.
@@Dstinct More specifically, the Mecha line bonds better to plastic compared to their Model and Game lines. Model Color on primer should be on par or better than Mecha Color on bare plastic.
Weird suggestion, but speaking as a former art student, one thing that can help with your poses is looking at how scultures depict the human form. Model kit figures are essentially working with the same rules, just with difference materials. Similar to sculpting, posing forces you to account for a few things, how the human body rests (contrapposto), how the materials respond to gravity, and what supports the figure.
There are two big tips if you want to panel line without painting. First, use acrylic paints, acrylic thinner will not damage the plastic the way enamel thinners can. Second, if you really want to use something like Tamiya panel liner, use lighter fluid instead of enamel thinner, it will remove the excess paint without damaging the plastic.
Just built my first kit tonight for the first time since last year January. I found myself being quite impatient and that led to a less than great result, so great timing with the video. I've been building for years before my break and this is just the type of video I need to get back into my flow.
True patience is a key factor to build ur gunpla neatly and better since i built many gundams my house and i have backlog too since i coztumise the other ones like hg rx 78 2 beyond global
Sometimes the problem that I faced in Gunpla Building are: -Parts always slip in my hands that cause to fall down and break pieces -Snapping together very hard that some sockets have crack and very loose connection -Whenever I paint, my hand always shake and paneling straight lines are very hard -Last thing is my artistic sense, (right color combination, sanding/filing too much - as Zack says simple is better, but in my head I don't want to be mediocre). But I'll try to improve even it take years, since this is a hobby that I enjoy.
The flying piece is the worst. Best advice for that is to have a clean work space(so it’s easy to find if it falls) and cut in a tray or box to avoid losing pieces that go flying with a snip
Me : - cutting my own hand fingers☝ - make a scratch on part (is now rare cause experiences)✌ - bad sense of colour 3️⃣ - splash my own blood on part cause the mistake number 1 4⃣ - scratch too much when sanding 5⃣
Speaking of losing small parts and inflicting injuries. Last month I'm working on this figure rise standard kit and it fell under my table. I tried to quickly find it in the carpet but problem the part is black and very small. Also didn't notice my hobby knife fell off the table and stab my feet (I'm wearing these soft indoor slippers and it pierce through it). Lesson learned, always tidy your table and make sure every thing is organized and always have first aid kit supply besides your working station while doing model kit.
Loose parts are also the worst. One of my kits has a peice of runner for a faceplate becuase that stupid thing just flew and by the time I found it to glue it fell again and into the void it went.
The third kit I built was the Psycho Zaku Ver Ka. I immediately not only finished it in three whole days and killed the decals but also decided that it looked crappy with the stand on and thought that it would be a good idea to leave it in the top shelf. Surprise surprise, it fell and broke almost all the way, parts all over the floor even my mat that was far away. And now 5 years later since it's literally expensive and illusive in USA stores am waiting in Amazon lol
I'm glad 3rd party kits exist. You can easily get some $5-6 1/144 kits for practicing your customizing skills. And their poor build quality can just act as a good learning experience as well. I kinda wanna make my own personalised mobile suit design by mixing and matching all of their parts together. One day
I actually think with "less is more" that there's a deeper root issue. I describe it as "intention over application." I think this much better explains why builds with more weathering look worse from beginners as what I've found is that people are weathering without thinking about how or why the weathering is being applied there; no reasoning or intention of what they want the kit to look like. One of the results of "less is more" that I've sometimes seen anecdotally is the idea that there's an arbitrary threshold of weathering that now is bad looking, regardless of how skillful it was done. More importantly, I've found in gunpla and MaK circles that asking people how the weathering happened leads to them both restraining themselves naturally as they sit and think more, but also making way more interesting ideas come to life and looking like it really happened on our tiny giant robots. :D
About panel lining on bare plastic, I always suggest those pour type gundam markers, they're super easy to use, you can clean up using Isopropyl alcohol and it's safe for bare plastic and they're as cheap as those fine tip regular gundam markers for panel lining, with a much better result that end up pretty similar to Accent Color
Sup, new builder here! I just finished my second gunpla model after throwing myself into an hg banshee norn 02. I have just completely my RG banshee as my second model and I have to say, this video did not do a noob like me justice… I feel like first off, stuff life panel lining, concreting, and overall painting is important to make ur gunpla look the best, but for a beginner, the biggest thing I took away from two very hard beginner builds is the process of cutting off the plastic from the runners, and then cleaning them up as if in an automated fashion. For example, I would complete the torso, have all the pieces cut out and sanded, and then put it together. This saves a lot of time and actually help you not cut yourself as often since there won’t be a pressure different from when u push pieces together in relation to when you’re cutting away at thicker nubs with your hobby knife
Surprised not thinning your paint wasn't something that was brought up. Probably the noobest thing I did back in the day that I learned real quick haha
Here's a little trick you can use to cover up white stress marks: Dab a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (quick setting will work better), let it dry for like a minute, and the white spot will be significantly reduced (it will never go away completely without painting, but this is almost as good imo). Another trick (not sure about this one, but I saw it from my nipper's manual): If you have a single-bladded nipper, have the sharp edge face the sloped/diagonal part of the gate if there is one. Dunno if it makes a difference, but worth trying out.
my goodness, I've seen a whole lot of people with very poseable kits but they'd just put it in an awkward pose and actually showcase them online, it's pretty funny. yes, referencing poses either from the boxart, still frames from the anime or even irl poses is a great idea to familiarize yourself with posing your models, I think a lot more builders should do that. nice shirt btw
Zup Zack, I consider myself a beginner, even though I built and painted several kits, but due to my job and family life, I take longer than usual to finish a project. I have learn the hard way about missing parts, face mask of my MG Exia gone, or putting decals on a matt finish. Thanks for the video bro😎👍🏼
As someone who prefers straight-assembled gunpla kits, I've never had a problem with panel lining on bare plastic. Maybe it's because I only use panel liner gundam markers and a mechanical pencil. I'm not really familiar with how the tamiya panel line accent interacts with bare plastic though... I think it depends on which panel liner a builder uses.
I've done 15+ kits from different manufacturers using gundam panel-lining markers, and not one of them suffered plastic damage. I do have it on very good authority though that enamel-based liners such as Tamiya's Accent Color should not be used on bare plastic (their website says the same). Presumably the "oil-based" Gundam markers (looking at the marker I was just using for a 30mm kit) are a different formulation from the enamels used in Tamiya liner. On the other hand, I just took another look at the Gundam marker and it has a little warning that says "may cause cracking when used on ABS plastic". Something to remember the next time I'm doing a Kotobukiya kit, since those guys use tons of ABS...
@@notatallheng Made this mistake on my first build. Used Tamiya Accent Color on bare plastic on my Ver Ka RX-78-2. Some people say it's fine but my beautiful boy's face, hand, and a leg facet have all snapped and the more I manhandle the model it's just a matter of time before it's all broken apart. Top coat ordered for next time, live and learn!
Out of laziness due to how much I hated (and I still do) to deal with nubs, I hardly ever sanded and 99% of the times sliced them off with a hobby knife. As a result, I was prone to accidentally shave off part of the plastic. I was prone to not mind it much, but now that near all of my old OOB builds are in a "part-yard" to be used for proper customs, I wish I fixed them properly right away. The time I've "saved" dealing with the nubs this way, wasn't saved but delayed later in fixing those surface imperfections with putty.
this could help too. I believe an estimate of time spend on a kit could help, for example: this SD will take 1 hour to build and this HG like 10 hours. Yes I know it is hard because there are many factors like the runners, the plastic, the level of the builders and so on but people usually are very busy and need to make schedules, so picking something that can use on his or her personal spare time can make his or her life a little better. Also taking breaks. I know long projects usually are a pain and people focus too much on finishing something that leave aside some elements that in the end will determinate how the kit will look. So if you are tired of arming, cleaning and painting all the gatling gun from the MGEX Unicorn ver. Ka. I think you better take a break and come back once you wanted to continue. This is only my thoughts
as far as proceeding too quickly too fast is concerned you dont have all the tools right off the bat. get your tools as you experiment and by the time you have all the tools to custom build or kitbash you should have tinkered with nubmark removal, seamline removal, etc
"you need a lot of patience" Me with adhd: "welp, I don't have that but I do have hyperfocus! I once spent 4 hours straight lubing mechanical keyboard switches. Didn't take any break until they were all done lol" I've veen following this hobby for do long, I should really get around to buying and building at least one kit.
I’ll be honest. The whole don’t rush things is big. The build is the enjoyment. I will say that this is a hobby you can total enjoy without a lot of painting. Learn to panel line and do a little touch up with a Gundam marker and you will have some great kits. Also, the whole panel lining on bare plastic weakening plastic is a silly myth. Panel liners are just a paint(ink really but not much different). If panel lining weakened plastic then fully painting a model would do the same thing. The reason panel lining on raw plastic may not be great is raw plastic doesn’t have a good base coat for ink or paint to stick to. A primer coat helps a lot. But to be honest, panel lining isn’t about getting solid colors and distinct lines anyways. You want it to fade mostly after you apply. It’s just shading enhancement. So not adhering great may be seen as an advantage.
Tamiya Panel Liner on my RG Force Impulse. I probably used excessive panel liner or too much X20 thinner, but the white antenna, front curved blue chest piece and backend wing section cracked on with just the slightest touch. I'd practice caution, still. I am now experimenting in assembling > decal application > top coating > panel lining > panel lineing cleanup > final top coat on my HG Beyond Global. If I see no parts cracking or plastic brittling, then this will be the way to go for me. Speaking from personal experience, it can happen. Either due to too much panel liner or too much thinner for too long of a time.
Beware don't use gundam marker, tamiya panel liner or any alcohol based type paint on ABS it will most definitely crack. Polystyrene PS plastic is pretty good doesn't have same weakness as ABS plastic. ABS should top coated first before paint. Oil based gundam marker is fine.
Tamiya panel liner contains enamel. Although bandai makes a lot of awesome kits it doesn't escape the fact that there are weakness in the plastic not visible to the naked eye. Putting a small dab of liner on one end of a panel line is normally fine. However if you put too much the tamiya can cause the plastic to break. So be mindful of how much you are applying. It helps to top coat your kit with a gloss coat. That will protect the model if you want to be safe.
In my case i've only used Tamiya panel line accent on two kits so far and haven't had a problem. I do the clean up with lighter fluid instead of enamel thinner. From what i've heard it's the thinner that often causes the cracks. That and also using too much. You can probably be more liberal with the stuff if you top coat first.
All model kits need patience I remember when i was primary school i always impatient when build tank kits, im always skip some parts for fast build lol 😂
i'm kinda a "freak" maybe... because i don't paint my models ( just little painting on some spots), i like the toyish looking on them after finish building, im surely not considered a builder at all because that... anyway i love to pose them, i even think about the pose when im buying the kit ♥
Im new to gunpla, but not new to model building. I just built my first three kits this last week. Other than the stickers and learning to pose I think they turned out pretty great!! Bought another rx78 to give the painting a go!
Great video. I've only built a few kits but learning advanced skills from airbrushing to plaplate enhancement to SMD installation has taken a lot of R&D. And I mean countless hours of RU-vid and just as much in practicing before committing to a final project. Even as a lifelong artist, if it wasn't for channels like this, Child of Mecha, Model Making Guru, etc, I never would have seen the results I have in just a few builds.
Secrets in building gunpla kits is patience, right tools, and knowledge to avoid mistakes, man it's like an engineers job lol my dad is engineer btw🤣🇵🇭
Same thoughts hahaa i remember when i was a kid mag tagalog na nga ako hahaha nung wla pa masyado ako alam sa gundam nag built ako 1st gundam yung 00 seravee manu manu lng sayang lng sira na dahil impatient ako nun and dabi numb marks nung binalikan ko after 13 year i learn from mistakes so need talaga correct tools para mag build ng gundam kahit ngayon still learning now im learning how to use spray paint or airbrush
You are right about using straight black. I painted the chest section of my 30mm contest entry and it just didnt look right. So i changed it. I am still new to painting but i have snapped up a good bit of kits. I am always learning new things everyday. Thats why i love this hobby
I'm in the "casuals" bracket. I started Gunpla a* long time ago but I never really bothered on doing a fullblown custom gunpla.. I paint and modify some parts here and there but that's about it... I can relate to the PATIENCE part.. When I started painting, I didn't have the patience. For example, instead of testing the paint first i.e. painting a spare sprue or plastic, I painted the kit right away which ended in a bad result forcing me to start all over.. Back then, I also did not wait for the CURE time because I thought that the Dry time and CURE time were the same.. Turns out, CURE time takes much longer (some even hours or days depending on the paint) than Dry time (usually 5-10 minutes or up to an hour). Cure time is critical specially on chrome paints (my molotow takes 24 hours to cure as written in the direction).. Lesson, be patient and READ the directions carefully even if you've seen the paint in action on youtube...
For my i prefer lacquer paint if u paint since it takes only 1 to 2 hours for curing one of my gunpla coztumise have better outcome after finished it in a week
@@paolocasilag5942 Oh I see, 1 to 2 hours only? That's fast, nice! I used a variety of paints ever since I started.. I'm currently using the GW Citadel (acrylic) paints because I got into Warhammer 40K last year (they are miniature kits).. Sometimes I cheat by using hair dryer haha!
@@BGLoscar lol sanaol, sadley i dont have dryer hahaha i got buy my time waiting that dry after i built another one while waiting and it paid off but good thing is i layer many lacquer paint on the colored ones not included white to make glossy and became better and by on my research and tip it can melt abs unless ITS PC it cannot unless use that one layer or use primer to paint on abs ones
@@paolocasilag5942 I'm always confused in that part about Lacquer on ABS vs Lacquer on PC.. Like how do I even tell the type of plastic? Is it indicated on the sprue/ runner? I've tried lacquer on some kits and so far I haven't had issues.
Removing nub-marks has my brain conditioned to the point where whenever I see a nub on any plastic thing such as a LEGO piece I feel a little disgust and an urge to buff it out.
Honestly as far as customizing, just Go wild, if you aren't afraid of making a few mistakes then just go for it, you'll never learn without experience. It's really not that serious.
True i feel u men hahaha now im using super glue for tightening the parts since i learned how to use it that in another way and im using cemet now base on my experience alll this years
I personally would love a video with a more in depth discussion on each of these topics including examples. I got into gunpla very recently and it was after watching Potan creates building the rx-78-2 unleashed and seeing the additional steps taken that are completely optional and investment heavy with both time and money in the long run. Seeing the final product was so awesome because of the time and care put into that model! Of course after lengthy research I made the choice of starting with the RG Gundam MK-ll for both the RG challenge, but still a satisfying end product!
Bro, great tips. The last time I built a kit was an MG Zaku 2 in 1999. But with your tips I been able to build an MG Gouf and Char's Zaku 2 custom. Messed up the decal on my Gouf (built 1st) but did really good on Char' Zaku.
The only problem I've encountered with Gundam models, of which I've only built two to be honest, is opening the box and being overwhelmed by the sheer number of parts, but once I've taken the plunge they have been the most enjoyable models I have ever built apart from the two Shinkalion models which are way cooler and got me into Gundam in the first place!
I still have a 1/144 Taurus from years back. Jumped from building to gluing to painting to gloss-coat spray. Where to start? Missed mold lines and seam lines cuz I didn't prime. Also glued parts after putting the polycap on wrong. Mixed paints of different types to get the desired tone. Sprayed on clear coat until the paint crusted. Older-Me would've had a field day.
Mistakes I've done and still doing it sometimes, 1. removing nubs, try to feel it and confident it aint there, and then spray primer and saw it, but choose to ignore it. 2. painting dark colour first then masking the area that wanna stay dark, reprime and paint lighter colour. 3. painting a light colour using gray primer and then feels weird why its so dark. 4. getting so many imagination of a kitbash but always end up with an unfinished project. 5. posing on ur eyes is not the same with what came out on ur camera, been there, done that, some weird poses in your eyes would look great in ur photo. 6. always pointing the sharp edge of hobby knife towards myself although i know its wrong. 7. always lazy to properly clean my airbrush and then angry when it cant spray properly when using it the next day. 8. im bad with paint brush, but i always try to paint small detail with it without masking, ended up with spilling it and had to fix or sometimes repaint the whole part. 9. always paint the joint part and then blame the kit that its joint is brittle.
posing is the thing that made me interested to the hobby in he first place, so i tried some gunpla. and had fun posing and getting the good angles and satisfaction. I just love this hobby.
As a beginner, my move to practice techniques has been to focus on grunt models, which are usually cheaper and since they're meant to be more mass-produced, errors aren't as painful because you can just chalk it up to them having that rougher look from the assembly line.
If you're doing metal photo etching, try very hard not to get any glue on the metal. It basically stains it, and you'll never get it off except by sanding, which will scratch up the surface like mad, so be prepared to deal with that.
with only 4 hg kits into the hobby I can confidently say that I'm a noob in so many levels, I've been using one kit as a test bed for the techniques i've been picking online and from other people, I've practiced panel lining, scribing, weathering and sanding/buffing. Learned alot, I wanna dive deeper in this hobby but as of now, gotta control myself and enjoy it slowly
Customized is not a bad start I think when you already build a lot kit. But when you are beginner like me, scratch building custom kit is not really something I recommend... Try kit bash and custom paint first maybe good but scratch build is no. You need a lot experience first for that. Trust me.
Oh yeah. My first was just a barbatos with some parts moved. Now I’ve got a core custom I’m building that part of one of its armors is a reaper theme including a crow machine backpack.
@@rhaeasoul8531 Same here, in my case my first custom, Is mix part Astaroth with some other ibo armor and weapons. And the results is not bad if I say..
Just built my first gunpla, Im a long time modeler and miniature painter. I built an MG Victory 2 2.0, the build took me 4 sessions over 4 days, ordered panel pens, waiting on them then Ill do water slides. Im enjoying the hobby so far, Im glad im not a rank noob though, the kit has tested my skills. Sub'd
Right now the most "customizing" I want to do is a minor kit bash with the Banshee Ver. Ka and Unicorn Ver. Ka to make a Black Unicorn, since Banshee comes with the Unicorn V-fin and I want the red psycho frame parts.
Patience is the thing that i need the most, i always try to rush my build, for example a few days ago i was building an sd kit and i accidentally ripped the eye sticker.
The tip about black colours also applies to formal suits. Black suits look ugly, and actually give a slight green tint. Better off going with dark navy or charcoal grey. Apparently ‘midnight blue’ can look blacker than black suits
Im still waiting for more G Gundam kits, Bandai. The Death Army wasn't enough. Soaring Raven Gundam Grand Gundam Walter Gundam Devil Gundam Plus the Death Birdie and the Death Navy
@@rhaeasoul8531 I agree, but completing the Dark Gundam's forces takes priority. Id say that Bandai would have a problem cuz of the country based Gundams, but of they're in Gundam Breaker Mobile, they can be made into HGFC Kits. I would also add Shadow Gundam, Howe Gundam, Neros Gundam, Royal Gundam, and the Ultimate Gundam As well as the old Shuffle Alliance
I think it kinda falls into a political issue and Japan has shown they don’t really care about some butt hurt snowflakes. The main designs aren’t even that offensive really. Maybe India and America but the cobra Gundam is minor and Japan doesn’t care what American Twitter thinks; those losers are too busy complaining about everything else anyway.
Haha plus it's a future where hong kong exists and wins the gundam tournament, sounds more like a nightmare for Chinese these days than the dystopian dream world it is for the rest of us. The Kowloon Gundam haunts them;)
I would burn actual burn marks into the kit, and I would heat up a nail and stick it into the plastic to mimic a blaster hit. Oh and I would mess up painting poly caps or certain types of softer plastic and use paint thinner to get it off only to melt the plastic 😓
I think it's a rite of passage to overweather a kit. It's a great way to learn from mistakes. Finding that sweet spot is hard and it may take a few tries it get the right balance.
Broke some parts of my HG Strike Freedom (5th build). Maybe I need a new pair of hobby cutters. The one I'm using is a rusty plier from my dad's toolbox. And I build a few HG already including Xi.
4:04 NGl it kinda hit me, but I do see your point. I got excited with making customs since it's the only other thing I could do for fun last year, and yet my custom GBN Guard Frame is brimming with super noticeable seam lines.
1. patience I made a Gundam at 5 years old or 9 years old I dunno and I also made a lego set so ok. 2. clean up I clean up all the time. 3. ambition I don't wanna customize my gunpla. 4. painting I don't like painting gunpla. 5. panel lining trying to learn he is helpful
Before I started to advance to detailing up (adding styrene plates, kit bashing) I followed a few Gunpla modellers, years ago I started with Keita (Wonder Excellence). Wealth of knowledge and tips and skills. Another to follow is Schizophonics who show off his works in progress and sometimes the tools he uses. I learnt a lot with reading peoples blogs. Or general youtubing, such as Pico's Modelling, Ray's Studio.
Under applying or unevenly applying cement to close up a seamline. You're left with a mostly closed part that now has what looks like a bunch of holes in it wah wah. Not the end of the world but certainly a pain.
I'll admit, I'm recently building gunpla using nothing but nail clipper, and it's as *disastrous* as you might expect. Don't worry though, it's just bootleg kit for experiment.
I remember when I first started building, I would straight up just rip the pieces off the runners like a caveman, without any tools. This is why my hg barbatos lupus ended up not having a dedicated weapon, thanks to the sword mace being broken right where the blade met the hilt.
@@Ballsdeep-xs5ls plucking the pieces of the runners are a bad idea tbh did that to side skirts of my astaroth always use a nipper to avoid some minor/major nub dmg
25 years ago I removed parts from the runners with bare hands and removed the nubs by using my front teeth. I was young, inexperienced and stupid. Now I spend 5-10 minutes just trying to perfectly remove nub and scratch marks using expensive nippers, multiple types of sandpaper file and buffers, only to realize the part will be covered up by another layer of armour. Now I'm old, experienced, and STILL STUPID. But building model kits was and always be fun.
I am about 30 kits in and still learning. Saw this video about 3 days too late! My poor RX78 Origin kit head paid the ultimate price for me learning that panel liner can weaken plastic. Apparently it was pooling under and I didn't notice it.
What panel liner are you using? Safest bet is just use the simple fine tip/real touch Gundam Marker or pour type gundam marker. Enamel paints especially from Tamiya are notorious for gunpla cracking. Safest bet if need to use this type of panel liner is to 1. Apply gloss coat before applying the liner(creates a layer of protection between liner paint and plastic) 2. Do the lining and drying before assembly, avoiding excess paint seeping between crack/seams.
I have fine tip, real touch, pour type and panel line accent. The first 3 are fine but the last one, you need to really thin the amount on the brush before applying on bare plastic to reduce the chance of pooling. I also recommend having a tissue ready to wipe off any pooling immediately.
Sometimes its important to consult the manual for things like taking a kit apart to paint it and how certain joints that might break move or articulate.
made PLENTY of them! I usually rebuild old HG SEED kits to modernise them and started 10 years ago, and I still consider myself not an expert. Even my most recent HGCE Duel messed up the pre-shading (I only got an airbrush a few years ago and had no time to paint!)
I had one of these.I spray painted it all black, coated it in sugar and salt and buried it in my yard… two weeks later dug it up and stuck it in a big wasp nest. They made their home around his eyes… ten days later I pulled him out of the wasp nest, tied a string around his leg and swung him around my head very vigorously…the figure was making a humming noise as it cut circles in the air. But then the string broke at its weakest point and the figure went flying into the woods where it will rest for another seven days before I go get it again.
Oh yep that definitely happens to everyone! Still happens to me every now and then! Sucks to be assembling painted parts and realize you need to take them apart and go paint more cause you missed a tiny bit that you didn’t think would show!
Posing is an under-rated shortcoming. Some good references are imitating action or badass scenes from anime. Love the parting shots, I miss Osaka, I miss Japan.
You can use Gundam markers on the Gundam. You will need to use a sealer however! I recommend either Mr. Hobby semi gloss or you can also use Mod Podge, however with Mod Podge you will see brush strokes.
Panel lining white, use gray. Panel lining yellow, use brown. Panel lining red, use a darker red closer to burgundy. Blue, use a darker blue. Same with purple. I wouldn't use metallic colors unless you're doing battle damage like deep gouging in the armor or if you're adding it to weapons for a bit more realism or touch-ups on the plated parts like in RG Exia on the swords.
There is glass files available. Great for big and small fingers. One thing I do when I build. BREATH CONTROL. With stiff connection try oil for models if you can find any. RC shops should/might have available. STAY AWAY FROM ANY SUGARS OR CAFFEINE cuts down on THE SHAKES.
I started building gunpla from 2018 and when I look back to when I started, I couldn't help but cringe at the nub marks that were left on the older kits I built (also some of the undergates that I didn't cut *visible pain*)
