"Terminology is very important." - Penis pump! Hilarious! :-) Good job! In any fluid system like cooling that can trap air bubbles, applying a vacuum causes the bubbles to run to the vacuum source. Also in this case, the slave cylinder will collapse, pushing fluid and bubbles up toward the master cylinder. That bleeds the slave cylinder and the line, while popping the clutch pedal helped bleed the master cylinder as well as replacing fluid in the slave cylinder so it could re-extend toward the clutch fingers. Being that much of the clutch line is vertical, gravity helps bubbles make their way from slave to master. With any new master or slave cylinder, it's a good idea to pre-bleed those on the bench before installation, to get as much air out as you can before starting the final bleeding procedure. McLeod also sells a little bleed screw which attaches between the slave and the line to make that part easier/more effective. Again, good job! If one day car repair isn't your thing, you can always do "malaprop" comedy at stand-up!
BUTTER! I bought this pump😏 like two years ago, and I had never actually used it until today. Would add that instead of one minute at 20 psi, I pumped the clutch while under the 20 psi until the bubbles stopped coming out. Now it feels like butter. Thank you sir.
Great video, only part I’m missing is when you disconnect that hose from the reservoir do you plug it or something so the fluid is not just pouring out and 2nd when do you connect back to reservoir and how is that process go without re-introducing air into the system?
Engaging at the “very top”, as in the top of the pedal when you have the clutch pedal down? Or do you mean AFTER you’ve released the clutch pedal and going UPwards? I’m assuming you mean the prior, as I have a Camaro, with a Tremec TR-6060 (works fairly similar, if not identical), and the clutch biting point is maybe half an inch right after letting the clutch pedal back up, from depressing it down FULLY (for all you “half clutchers”). I still have the stock master cylinder and all, with the rubber (EPDM) clutch line(s), and the engagement end point is probably somewhere around 3/4 - 7/8” roughly, as you let the clutch pedal UP from the very BOTTOM pedal travel. It’s rather spongy imo and a bit hard to tell; but if you have hard soled shoes or thin shoes where you can really feel, then you can kinda tell where you can let the pedal up quickly past the bite point, into the engagement point or right after it, and it will kinda “smack” into engagement, to show you where the engagement end travel is. There’s quite a fair amount of upward pedal travel after that, so.
You are going to show us how to do this right and use the correct terminology? I pressed my clutch unit abt 100 time let it sit for 4 hours and did it again, gravity did the work for me. I popped the lid on the master cylinder so it would breath better. I then started the car and slowly engaged the clutch. Turned it off and repeated the process the next morning I had some clutch pedal, so I took it for a road test. Starting in second gear cause 1st would not go it. After 20 miles of stop and go it was much better. Next morning I repeated the clutch process abt 100 times and took it for a drive, after abt 20 more miles it was fine. Gravity will work it just takes time
I replaced my clutch and when I start the car and have the clutch in and go to put it into 1st on jack stands btw the wheel just start spinning?!? I’m so confused any ideas?
Make sure you got all air out. Also there’s a plastic pin that mates the pedal assembly to the master cylinder. If that pin is loose/bent it won’t allow you to fully disengage the clutch
Imma try this tomorrow on my ‘06 MX5 (3rd gen, aka NC) Miata. It has a similar setup with a shared reservoir (there’s actually a small section inside with a baffle), and a hose running sideways to the master cylinder. (Previous Miatas from ‘90-05 have a wholly separate clutch reservoir.) I replaced my master and slave cylinders today for the first time; I struggled for hours today because I didn’t know about this method. I did the traditional method of pumping from underneath at the slave cylinder, but just kept letting air and old fluid. Wish you would do another demo video when you actually do this again. BTW did you use any check valve or any other piece / attachment?
Why did you remove the bottom line on the clutch master cylinder? you go from saying that you disconnected that to then later saying that the only line you disconnect is the top line on the clutch master cylinder.
@@CarsAndDrums I bought a vacuum pump and for the mustang, the way the clutch hose works, you don't have to vacuum pump the line. Just mine back from the shop s d they didn't have to do that to bleed the system because of the new configuration of the newer line. It has a loop in in the line that prevents the need of a vacuum pump
Did you put a cap over the nipple on the master cylinder reservoir after connecting the master cylinder line to the vaccum pump? I have a 2015 GT btw, it seems to be the same concept.
Cars And Drums cool cool, appreciate the fast reply! I recently replaced my Clutch master cylinder and I’m having issues with the clutch sticking to the floor and locking me out of gear when high in the RPM range (7k plus) i tried this same method except with a suction cup where the reservoir cap is and still having the same issue. Any clue to what else it might be if this doesn’t work? My last effort would to bleed the slave but I really don’t wanna drop the trans!
When i pump the vacuum pump and let it sit it just goes Down by itself and the clutch pedal gets soft with no pressure which leads me to not be able to do the clutch popping technique
@@CarsAndDrums appreciate the response bro! I haven’t done anything yet I’m just gonna take it to the shop. When my car gets warm My clutch slips in first gear at about 2000 rpm’s. Got any suggestions on what it might be?
My 06 has no signs of leaks when i turn on the car it doesn’t go into any gears at all even reverse ,and my clutch pedal has good pressure. Does anyone know what it could be?
I just did this after a shop replaced my clutch they told me I need to replace the clutch master cylinder also. So I did and while I was bleeding it and something popped inside the transmission and now fluid is leaking out of the bellhousing 😬
Nice vid, how can you tell if the master cylinder for the clutch is bad? My clutch gets stiff after highway driving, trying not to drop the trans, but looking it may be that way. Was hoping to just change the master, but will change out the whole system, clutch and all, if need be. Do you think it's the slave cylinder causing the stiffness? If I drop the trans, I'll just do the clutch and all the hydraulics at once, was just trying to keep it simple.
@@marcanthony9659 For me, the fluid was bad. I bled the whole system, brakes and clutch. The stiffness went away. Long story short, brake fluid adopts water/moisture over time. Ruining its ability to work. Bleed your system, should get back to normal.
Cars And Drums dang thanks for the fast response! I’m replacing the clutch master cylinder and this is the only think I need left to do so. So just pull it straight out?? Not the tube that is connected to the reservoir, the one under it
It was so flawless to like a genuine accident it was so well delivered the I think he might actually have a penis pump somewhere in his house and he really accidentally misspoke