Be carful with position. Chips can get in the drill ( motors are magnets) and short it out. I had severe damage to a drill after cutting about thirty feet. It’s a great tool if your carful I use an air version now to avoid issues.
If you're still around to answer...would this then be best to use only with the body below the drill...then the chips will fall down away from the drill?
@@jokly1264 If you cut with the panels flat and the drill strait up its pretty safe. Some cordless drills have screens over the vents like Bosch and are good to go. I was cutting window openings in already installed panels and it seemed like it sucked chips in. I completely disassembled and cleaned chips out multiple times. No permanent damage but a pain. You can modify the throat so the inlet is bigger. Think funnel. As long as the area the punch hits is in tact it works great. Hope this helps. Good luck
Thank you so much. I just got mine in the mail and now have some sense of how to get started. Bought to cut speaker holes in rear deck of an old car I've restored. Great video. Thank you.
Yes, great demo / explanation. I will be working UP unfortunately under a park model rv with sheet metal belly wrap skin. I will ware wrap around safety glasses and fashion from duct tape a guard for my drill motor to keep nibbles out. No mention of oiling the die cuter ; or, replacement nibble "blades."
Metal nibbler for drills are fantastic. Thank you for the great video. I hope you're well. And chips, stuck in your foot, ouch. Which do you think was the most efficient the impact driver or the drill please?
@@New_Zealand_Music I imagine that would be due to the higher rpm of the impact. My dewalt drill is only rated for like 1500 rpm, but the impact is rated at something like 2600 rpm.
Unfortunately I don't know of a good way to lock it on the drill/driver. If you get the shear attachment from DEWALT it does lock onto the drill/driver. That part number is DWASHRIR and it typically is around $45-$65. I picked one up recently, but haven't had a chance to make a video on it yet.
Came here to help decide one whether to get one of these or not, but now I'm also curious what kind of garage door do you have or what kind of insulation you're using on it?
How well will these lower cost import attatchment last compared to the USA made Milner-Haufen nibbler? My guess is it is a good value for part time DIY but if you want to have a lasting tool to use every day on the jobsite you go with the higher price Milner-Haufen. Paying for higher quality steel and metallurgy is well worth the added cost when your livelihood depends on a tool, but if your kicking around on the farm doing a few random DIY projects this tool makes sense.
I haven't seen it done so far. There is the guide included for circles and straight cuts. You might be able to run it along a curved edge jig made out of plywood, but you would need to go slow. I think you might be better off using the jig to mark on the piece you want to cut and then following the line with the attachment.
This tool is cool, but it has its limitations. I snapped one of the heads while trying to cut aluminum diamond plate (.072" thickness). Not sure why, maybe it was just a bum tool head. Or maybe the alum was too soft and sheared off into the mechanism, gunking it up? The confusing thing though was that I had cut an even thicker STEEL sheet before I tried the alum, and it worked great. Easy cleanup too if you have a small magnet. So idk, maybe it was the diamonds on the sheet? Just my experience. It also heat up substantially, so maybe it should be used with oil
Did it break when cutting into one of the lugs of the diamond plate? I could see that happening. Was the thickness .072" including or not including the lugs?
I did a video on this nibbler....for heavy gauge stuff it will not work. As in nearly 50 year old sheet metal on a Ford...It was a waste of my time, and frustrating to no end.
Yeah it is definitely not going to help you on the heavy gauge stuff. Cuts in siding its not bad and thin metal it is fine, but I feel like it is a little over advertised on its max gauge. I remember seeing your video and will subscribe to you. Good luck in your RU-vid endeavors and love the name!
@@kohltec9911 These are all made by one factory in China but are sold under so many brands. The one I bought advertized it up to 10 gauge (2mm) thick. It was nowhere near capable of that. I ended up ripping the metal with a tool that since became my favorite. The Vampliers VT-01! Those are well engineered and clever pliers.
@@RipRoaringGarage Correction to your comment. 10 gauge is 3.2mm. This tool's advertised 14 gauge is 2mm. Now we don't know if you actually tried to cut a 14g/2mm or 10g/3.2mm.
