Best Settings you need - LG 27GR95QE 240Hz OLED Monitor 

APRIL 2023 FIRMWARE UPDATE - the new firmware has made only a very minor change to SDR brightness, so our recommendations for SDR mode and brightness settings remain basically the same. For HDR, Gamer 2 mode has now been changed to be much cooler (~8900K) in an effort to cheat a higher peak brightness (~880 nits). Our recommendation for HDR has therefore changed - stick to HDR Gamer 1 mode for the better white point ~6500K, unless you specifically like a cooler image

Thank you for the work.

Thank you guys, much appreciated!

@tftcentral , I just followed every settings on this video and it fixed the issues I was having !!! You’re a legend , It was user error on my end by only changing half of them 2 days ago . Thank you so much

Can’t wait for the new 27GS95QE review and preferred settings!

Just got my oled today so happy will use setting also

I just used the same settings on my new 27GS95QE. Thank you!

Thanks for the quick answers to my Q’s to a video you uploaded a year ago! Thank you Sir

i ordered this monitor few days ago. thank you!

Thank you so much! Amazing settings.

Very helpful. Should be the standard video after testing panels, I always find it such a hit and miss method when doing it myself. This is a nice general direction you are pointing. Thanks.

just got this model a day ago and i must say, its well and good! i dont get the dim brightness that people are getting even in hdr with 100% brightness and game mode fps, its still bright enough for my eyes to see dark spots when playing games with dark portions. clarity and smoothness in fps games are also great and i don think its lacking at all.

THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO MUCH APPRECIATED

thank you ive now decided to keep my lg oled ultragear

Great video and very helpful, thanks. Just yesterday LG launched a program update that allows you to update the monitor firmware (OSC version 9.23) who knows if it will update the firmware again and with what results.

I like this idea, Simon. I'm going to steal it. 😉

Thank you guys for this. I just got this monitor last week I love it. I do have a few questions. What Nvidia desktop color settings are you using? Also what Windows HDR settings are you using?

Hi, excellent video congratulations, as soon as I have some free time I will change the monitor settings. at the moment the only thing that bothered me about the screen is the small writing that can't be read well, it looks blurry and three-dimensional... and I can't read well. absurd. I hope they fix it with an update because after spending all this money I feel cheated.

Please do a video on the lg 45gr95qe

On 50s you suggest to enable under Display Specific settings "Enable settings for the selected display model". This is causing flickering on a games (example Ghost Recon Breakpoint) at least for me

I vastly prefer the "RTS" preset for HDR over the other ones. It's the only one that looks warm without being too saturated like Gamer 2.

Could you please do a video on the Screne Move modes? Like the differences for each mode? I can't find any information on it.

I hope LG is sponsoring you @tftcentral !! Haha , Just spent 30 min reading comments & replies from you regarding this monitor . You have way more patience than I do . I feel bad for asking you the same Q’s everyone else was while you answered the corrected actions thousand times . thank you bro, You’re my HERO right now 🐐😎🤘🏼🍿

LG is coming out with a firmware update this month to “maximize the panel brightness during gaming”. Will do you a video on this when that happens and give updated settings if necessary? Another question. Lets say 150 nits at 60 contrast is 95 brightness. Then 150 nits at 70 contrast is 87 brightness. What would be the difference between these two visually and when it comes to burn in.

I use the pixel shift mode 1, and I even had mode 4 for a few months. I am not even sure if mode 1 or 4 is the most frequent one with biggest shift, apparently from searching online it's the mode 1 that is shifting the most and more often but I could never tell, I never noticed the shift unless I really focus on the screen like when writing something for example, like for example this comment, I didn't notice it shift, maybe I blinked lol. It's sad there's no decisive official information on these modes.

On my panel, a black stabilizer value of 60 does increase the black level. It's extremely subtle, but definitely non-zero.

So if I'm correct, Gamer 1 for HDR content, and SRGB for SDR content? Thanks for the great vid.

Any recommendations for the GS version refresh? The image in gamer 1 feels very yellowish compared to my calibrated ips panel. Like its too "warm". Saturation is a bit too much but thats not as distracting

Cheers, i just got my LG today :)

Thanks for this! Are there any specific Windows settings that need changing to get the best out of this? Also, I wish we had a better timeframe from Overclockers than just 'around April'. I am dying with anticipation for my pre-order! I want to believe before end of March is still a possability haha!

Great frigin question.

Your set up looks great but if I enable Gsync I get flickering in menus and load screens in games. I think Freesync Pro is already running and they are trying to run at the same time.

I just ordered my oled. Has there been any significant updates since the April update?

Hi how do you update the monitor? i just ordered mine and its coming soon, or u think its updated already out the box? thanks

Any idea why I can't run 10 bit in native 1440p on xbox series x? I have the service remote and under debug the monitor is displaying 8 bit. This only happens in native 1440p. When i use the 4k mode which just downscales back to 1440p, I have no issue running RGB 444 4k 120hz 10 bit in RGB full range but can only get 8 bit in native 1440p. When picking native 1440p It's using hdmi 2.0 but i checked the bandwidth and its only at 15gbps so it should be fine to do 10 bit on the 2.0 standard

You should record at 1440p or at least upload in 1440p so RU-vid encoded the video in the higher quality VP9 codec, because honestly windows stuff is pretty small and you pair that with RU-vid compression it can be hard to read the small text or icons at times

I have 50 B 60 C on the Monitor Gamma 3 What I did though is take the Nvidia sliders and turned gamma down to .81 that really makes stuff pop if stuff is too dark in games I just turn up the gamma in game. Any other settings are just too bright and will mess with you. I did buy a Vesa stand for this monitor I feel the LG stand didn't go low enough so I purchased a stand for 29.00 on Amazon that goes all the way down it's a pole design but was able to lower the monitor about 3 inches more like I wanted. Other wise you are looking up at it and it blinds you.

the settings you save with hdr off will actually carry over to hdr mode once you turn it on... for me it looks like. so the greyed out options are available just finicky to use

These types of videos are great. Hope you make the same for the pg32ucdm when it comes out. It will be popular

I bought this monitor 3 months ago and had some interesting bugs. I turned it on one morning and noticed a bunch of horizontal lines going from black to grey running along the top third of the screen. Nothing i could do was fixing it and I was about to get it repaired, that is, until i did pixel and image cleaning 3 times in a row and upon the final one, the lines were gone! i'm not sure if this is a common issue but if it happens to any of you guys, just try to spam image/ pixel cleaning and hope for the best!

Is there any middleware out there allow you to change OSD profile on the fly depending on the content. I dont see myself working on Lightroom and switching everytime from one mode to another while I go back to my gaming mode. Can you through windows and not via OSD change the profile and make it pop very quickly ?

Question: Do you also recommend using Windows 11's HDR Calibration program on top of these settings?

This monitor does have a confirmed hidden menu. Turn off your monitor. Once off. Push the joystick to the left 3 times and one time to the right, Then .Push in the center to turn the monitor on service menu. Once The main menu comes out. Go to settings ..and the hidden menu will pop up on the left side of your screen. Once there. You need to turn on HCDP on in order to enjoy netflix in full 4k with hdr. Otherwise it wont work. We need all the help we can get together.

I have issues with this monitor with games like wow or ffxiv that has a static UI in the borders.. Any way to display the icons evenly at maximum intensity?

thanks for your hard work amazing and informative is it possible to do best settings for LG 32 OLED Dual Mode 4K UHD 240Hz or FHD 480Hz because i heard that it needs more color optimization in the settings

Great video. Im currently using these settings for the lg 45gr95qe. Would it be similar? And by any chance would you good folks be able to run through the best settings for the LG 45gr95qe?

hi usb back is not working what can i must to do please ?

hello how to update the screen? thank you 😊

What settings would you recommend for productivity? Working on web pages, text, spreadsheets, etc? Seems tab by tab the brightness varies, I just want it bright and clear like my G9, nothing to do with gaming at all. I bought it for the screen size, seriously considering returning it.

When or will you have settings available for LG27GS95QE? I can't even find an icc profile online for it yet

Thank you guys, any chances of getting an updater settings video for the 2024 27GS Modell?

According to the review of Optimum Tech, setting the color temp to "manual C1" gives you the whitepoint that you seek and makes that you don't have to mess with RGB sliders.

in what mode, black level is active?

Question, just out of curiosity: Why did u turn screen move off? Isn't this supposed to shift the screen occasionally just 1-2 pixels around, which u wouldn't notice anyways? Seems to be useful thing to prevent potential burn-in...

If you leave Brightness at 100, don't turn Black Stabilizer up to 60. The highest you can go is 55 if you want true black. Not sure if this is just a panel deviation on my end, but you can test it yourself in a dark room - switch between 55 and 60 on a black image , it's not very noticeable but the blacks brighten up a tiny bit. You want the LEDs to stay off!

If the wide gama is on Gamer Mode 1, and HDR is also on GamerMode 1, do I need to adjust all the settings over and over again once i toggle HDR ON (Windows 11)? HDR version does not use the ICC of the wide gama mode right?

So if I understood this video correctly, run "SRGB mode" for regular content day to day .. when gaming in HDR, enable HDR via Windows and then in the game and switch to "Game Mode 1"?

Opinion on the "vivid" preset? I feel it looks really good and haven't tried what you are doing in this video, I usually watch videos and game mainly, so would I benefit more from doing what you're doing in the video over the vivid preset overall?

Can you tell me what the ghosting is like at 60hz? Trying to find out as you can't change overdrive settings can you?

Something people should know about this model: It's not 10 bit, it's 8 bit + FRC, so it basically emulates 10 bit with some trickery. This is probably one of the biggest spec mis directions that puts this panel behind others, because even other WOLED panels released around the same time are the full 10 bit without FRC. So even though everyone thinks all the other WOLED panels released around the same time are the same panel, they're actually not the same panel, LG cheaped out but quietly pretended like they didn't. Essentially, it uses dithering to fake 10 bit. Anyone susceptible to flickering could have an issue, and dithering itself could cause issues with gradients. This also messes with response times, which is likely why TFTcentral saw some issues on their UFO test. While the response time is fast, it uses up that response time to apply the FRC, which would explain why it lagged behind on the UFO test. Essentially, you're not getting a true stop and hold on the pixels, you're getting that FRC flicker that keeps it from a steady stop and hold, which can cause motion smearing. This is also probably some of the source of brightness issues with the monitor, since the dithering by FRC requires constant pixel brightness and color changes to emulate 10 bit, changes that happen faster than the refresh rate, as the pixels need to dither by transitioning X number of times between 240hz refreshes, which overall averages out to a dimmer brightness due to the color changes needed to do FRC dithering. This is also clearly why it has a 12 bit option, as it is not slated to support Dolbyvision HDR, which is a 12 bit format. So it has a 12 bit option because it's 8 bit + 4 bit from FRC. So in essence all the 12 bit option is telling you is that because the OLED is fast enough, it can just do more FRC dithering to emulate those extra bits. If it was a true 10 bit display, it wouldn't even have a 12 bit option. In some ways 8 bits + FRC can be meaningless, especially for SDR. But its biggest impact would be on darker gradients, which could lead to clipping and mosquito noise. It would also exasperate VRR flicker. And from a technical standpoint, it means that it's not actually generating the real color gamut, it's just faking it. This is also probably why it does soo poorly compared to other OLED's on the color gamut tests, because the physical testing equipment gets faked out (but not completely) by the FRC dithering, which creates some inconsistencies that shouldn't exist on an OLED. Even at $599, all other issues aside like brightness, the biggest problem with this panel is it's 8 bit + FRC. That immediately puts it well below other panels. That makes it really a no go in this era, and makes it more like trying to sell a 2015 monitor in 2024. FRC is simply something you don't want on a new monitor in this day and age, and certainly not on an OLED, especially when every other OLED out there is native 10 bit. LG really pulled a stealth bait and switch on this one, by making people think this is a true 10 bit panel. All that FRC on pixels that are notoriously affected by changes (i.e. burn in), really can't be good on an OLED, because it causes the pixels to do even more work, 10 times the work even, as they're forced to change much more often than even the refresh rate itself. So this model could basically be called the TN panel of OLED's. So it seems what LG did was give all the other brands the real 10 bit panel, and slipped in their inferior 8 bit + FRC panel under their brand, and made everyone think they're the same panel, and charging the same prices as everyone else, allowing them to sell an inferior panel for higher prices equal to the superior panels. FRC doesn't just make the 8 bit panel inferior, it also means it need more overhead in order to emulate those colors, which is probably why despite its brightness limitations, it uses a fan, which is not meant to cool the panel, but rather, the board parts, and that cooling is probably largely required because all the processing overhead required for FRC. What this all means is that for those who own the monitor already, setting it to 12 bits will at least be better than setting it to 10 bits, because you'll get a smoother FRC experience that can better iron out the issues of 8 bits + 2 bits FRC.

Incredible video. Made such a difference setting up my monitor. Didn't want to leave a like though since you were already at 420

Hi, I'm a bit new to messing with picture settings - why do you lower the brightness in the non-hdr modes? Edit: is it just to be more comfortable on the eyes while using Excel? I followed what you said but increased the brightness to 100% for Gamer1 in SDR because pictures and games look better bright, so then the uses will be: 1. General desktop work/browsing: SDR sRGB 2. Non-HDR games, watching videos/looking at pictures: SDR Gamer 1 (100% brightness) 3. HDR games: HDR Gamer1 Is that what you are recommending?

Please help - How to maximize best settings for brightness with monitor when connected to PS5?

Hey! When I press the oled care button(little screen icon) it says function not available now

Xbox Series X user - is it best to use the SDR or HDR settings? I play FPS - specifically Cod/Warzone. My LG 27GR95QE-B arrives tomorrow, hope I'm not underwhelmed :) Cheers.

Hey, why at my oled lg is "smart energy saving" grey and i cant turn it off or on ?

Hi I just bought thise monitor and I can’t understand what is the best gaming mode for example should I use hdr on all the time ? Or should I have it of? and when I have it of why it has hdr effect ?

Appreciate this a whole lot. Im a complete noob so i have to ask. Would you advice using theese settings aswell if the primarly use is for daily work and movies on youtube aswell? And which one of the two would be the best for this use? Gamer1 or sRGB?

My settings on picture adjust are greyed out. How can i make them accessible?

What nvidia control panel desktop Color settings do you recommend?

I prefer gamer 1 myself for hdr and went with that. Come to find out Vincent in hdtvtest says it is far more accurate than gamer 2 as well. You can always switch back and forth obviously and go with whichever you prefer. I thought both gamer 1 and gamer 2 were far too blue on my unit and dialed the blues back via nvidia control panel. Supposedly, however, the d65 white point of gamer 1 was very accurate per Vincent. Will have another look see tonite.

I’m using a LG27-850b I don’t have the option for 10 bpc. I’m using a rtx 4080. I’m using a HDMI 2.1. Do I need a display port for this?

I found that CPC enable set off and LEA refreash enable set to OFF in service menu is crucial settins for this monitor. Can you make another video about these settings and hopefully LG will include these settings in menu for next firmware. Thanks!

On SRGB Mode with Gamer1, would you rather set the Blue to 48 for the best white Color, or go to the Color-Temp Settings and use the „Manual C1“ Mode?

I read it has auto input switch, how does it work? let's say you have ps5 and pc connected to it. How do you switch between them, if the pc is on, and you turn the console on, will it auto switch to console?

Hi, I am not very good with technology, I purchased the oled monitor yesterday and I only play ps5 on it, I am struggling to figure out how to change it from 60hz to 120hz? There is no option for me to change it on the monitor? Can someone please help?

Something I've noticed is everyone labels this monitor as 10 bit but microcenter labels it as 8 bit + FRC. Would that matter or create a different then playing at 8 bit vs 10 bit?

Can I use these settings for the non oled version of this monitor? Thanks 🙏

What settings do you recommend for daily work and while gaming?

Do you have to change settings in SDR and then change to HDR "Game Mode 1"? to get the effect? becuase i feel like my hdr colors are a little bit too grey. What settings do you use in HDR mode? And do you turn off HDR in Windows 11?

Hi, doesn’t Color Temp manual-C1 target 6500 white point if you leave blue at 50?

do you know why mine has all of sudden changed the resolution to 4k when I load up a game and I get a message telling me to change it on my PC but nothing is changed on my pc

I’ve found that Color Temp on C1 has given me a white point close to 6500k. Is the custom RGB settings you mentioned better for reaching 6500k?

I just got this monitor but the refresh rate is stuck on 144 hz. Can somebody help me try to adjust that? I've tried looking through my windows 11 settings and NVidia control panel settings. The settings won't allow me to go beyond 144 hz. My drivers are up to date, i've done several restarts, and I know it's not a cable issue. Can anyone help?

I have this monitor and play on a ps5 but it’s very choppy on 60hz games

Like it’s not letting me use the picture adjust

How come when I go into Picture adjust I can’t select contrast, gamma, color temp or RGB??? Only Brightness and Sharpness are available for me to adjust. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I mostly play COD Warzone so would this be the best settings for that as well?

Why turn the brightness down? 200 Nits seems fine to me to run on SDR content, anything I am missing here?

I get This Monitor next week and i only use it for Gaming. Should i set it to Gamer1 or sRGB Mode in your opinion?

Most my settings like black equalizer and power saving is greyed out? Also g sync on or off for less input delay?

when i go into the menu i cant adjust anything under picture adjust with the exception of brightness and contrast - any idea why?

If i use this monitor with HDR what should i set for auto hdr in windows 11 ? And what peak brightness should i set in the HDR calibration app

Yours is a lot brighter than mine. Looking at your OSD settings on my LG OLED monitor, it's brighter than the OSD on the monitor itself!

I just bought an open box monitor. But it didn’t come with a remote. Does anyone Know what remote replacement I can use if any ?

wont let me choose 10 bt for colors what to do

Mate, if you read this please reply, Is it worth getting the monitor if primary usecase is coding and ocasional media consumption. This is the only reasonable option in my country and I really really want to try out an oled moitor.

Hello again, do you plan to make an update of this after the firmware update release?

no screen flicker on gsync enabled? should I buy this monitor? its ps5 compatible too hdmi 2.1 :P

Man, I never thought replacing a monitor would be as challenging as it has been. I’m coming off an LG Ultragear 27L850-B that was purchased 2 years ago. I wanted something much better even though I found no fault with that monitor. First Picked up the Alienware AW3821DW. It’s a massive screen and I loved every bit of the size. However, it wasn’t as good as my $300 LG that I was giving up. Picture quality when watching RU-vid wasn’t as crisp. I then picked up the LG Ultragear 27GR95QE and was instantly displeased. The size for one was an instant let down given that I would be giving up a 38” wide monitor. That aside, the screen brightness was extremely dull. I knew this would be a thing, but boy, it’s hard to keep a $1k monitor and have to strain to see the image even in a dark room. That’s being returned today (06/23) Given the 38” Alienware ruined 27” monitors for me, I’m now awaiting shipment of the Alienware AW3423DWF. 34” is still wide enough and based on the various reviews (even though the other 2 monitors I purchased were also based on countless reviews), this Alienware AW3423DWF seems to be most people’s cream of the crop. We shall see come tomorrow. If there’s no difference between that and the Alienware Alienware AW3821DW, I will just keep the 38” as “Size DOES matter 😅”.

Hey boss I bought this exact oled open box excellent from Best Buy for $611 with tax. The monitor is great is fantastic for gaming but for some reason I can’t get the remote to connect to the monitor. I think maybe that’s why it was returned. I have an lg nano cell tv so my magic remote works but I can’t get oled care to pop up with my magic remote. Someone said I had to use the freaking remote that came with the monitor but it won’t work! You think I should return it or keep it?! It’s super expensive and I don’t want burn in!