The 1st bigger shower build can be seen here.... • ISSUES BUILDING SHOWER... To get a Delta R22000 valve click on link here... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
To get one of these valves click on link.... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MA3VMTS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01MA3VMTS&linkCode=as2&tag=starrtile-20&linkId=121ba712dd6a74c1bd63336fec93bc69
Just want to say thank you for all your videos. Your logic on what works and what works better, with showers, makes alot of sense to me even though I'm an automotive mechanic by trade. I'm currently doing my shower and you've helped so much so far. I will be contacting you via patreon/PayPal to show my appreciation of all your vids. If I mess up though I'll be contacting you for an estimate to fix my mistakes lol. I'm maybe 15mins north of Atlanta. But hoping it doesnt come to that lol. Thanks again and keep up the vids!
I assure you, there is NOTHING wrong with NOT doing plumbing at the end of the day. The leak Gremlins come out after dark and/ or right after you've left the premises. All may seem well UNTIL you leave and it's around 11 p.m. and the call/ text comes in. I do any and all soldering, and even Shark bite connections, (when I have no alternative), or Viega 1st thing in the morning. I leave the rough work open for several hours and inspect it periodically. Then mid day, at the soonest, I might consider covering it up. I made that mistake ONCE. That was enough and a lesson learned. Nice vid, thanks.
You point out my big concern with Delta, I would venture to guess many people have the hand held on the right and in a 2 function setup. I am looking at using their 6 function diverter and plug position 2 so that the handle position is logical to the function that is active. Moen is almost as bad now with their M-Core, default on the top then the left then the right.
I don't think I have a video like that but I'm sure there's one out there, all it takes is a hammer and or a Sawzall.... and needs to come out in pieces
@@StarrTile really cool , grew up around the same time and just down the 405. Too bad LA got so crowded and expensive. It was a great time to grow up in the 60s and 70s out there. Thank you for the interesting and very detailed information brother. Blessings to you and family.
What kind of grout do you use for LFT 12 x 24, 1/8 inch grout lines? How do you calculate how much grout to purchase? I’m doing a tub surround 5’ x 6’ side wall and 6’ X 32” end walls. You helped me with choosing the correct mortar, and so far, I’m pleased with the look. I’ve replaced everything from subfloor up, except the tub because it’s too heavy. I’ll send pictures when I’m done. Your videos have really helped me!!! I really appreciate the details you incorporate into your explanations!
By default I use prism grout, only because it is very versatile, can be used on a very very thin lines and very thick lines, can be used on Natural Stone as well as man-made tile
Nice work, i would have used a 5/8 durock more better than the drywall for Mold And Mildew last longer. i always used schluter alot and the sheild works better for me with durocks on the shower wall area only. Good job bro.
Shower looks great and it is very informative how you address issues. Considering all the work that goes into a "cobble" job like this, wouldn't it be faster and ultimately easier and cheaper (considering labor) to just just gut all the walls and use what you prefer?
The bottom part of the shower past the sheetrock and the curb are both go board which is a foam backer... so no need for waterproofing it.. And thanks 👍👌
Oh ok I missed that thanks. I love your vids will be redoing my bathroom soon so I’ll be going over them a bunch in the future,thinking about going curbless in the shower with linear drain but seems like so many potential failure points,I’m going to keep watching more vids before I decide I guess.
Question for you sr:? The square black plastic guard or valve frame whatever it’s called should be installed evenly with the backer board or even with the tile? It’s hard to see in your video. thanks
Great valve. Engineering team might of been drunk. Gotta go left before you go right. And another issue. Cartridge comes with trim kit. So to test you have to cap shower and hand held. Uggg
If I may ask, how much did you charge for the complete job. I’m remodeling one of my bathrooms (new sink, toilet, redo tile in shower/bath with 12x24’s, redo tile floor with hexagon tiles, 8”, redo tile on counter with 12x24’s, and new fixtures. I’m curious to what the value would be. I know the cost for materials are around $2000 for everything. Thanks.
I like the IDEA of them...the tilable ones anyway, but not all showers are same size so usually you need to custom order and wait 2-4 weeks which I don't have time for...plus the cost...typical is $400-$800 which is insane given they just closed foam. But yeah for a homeowner it might make sense and make life easier
Well delta makes them for the r11000 valve body. Just installed one. Instead of 3 function cartridge insert they make a six which has more diverter options as far as where the water goes.
I have that unit in my new shower. I too liked it a lot. I just am wish they had the option to purchase it with pex fittings. A pet peeve of mine. The industry refers to that unit as a “valve” and the rest as a “trim kit”. Yet the trim kit comes with the cartridge and without a cartridge it is a “valve body”. It only becomes a valve with the cartridge installed. Some refer to it as a “rough in” and that may be more accurate.
Thank you for explaining the set screws. Just installed one last night and the Delta directions are garbage. The only mention of the set screws in the entire manual is to remove them prior to sweating and they are never mentioned again.
hey there.. great vid.. got question.. what is the 3rd port for on top right side opposite the sprayer port? i just installed this one and had the 3rd port feeding a 3rd item being the rain head and when turn on goes to shower head first like it should then switch diverter to left once and goes to the sprayer which i have same port u have and the 3rd setting to the left on the diverter which is the last setting only does the sprayer and regular shower head??? I'm lost rn and all walls are closed and 100% done :( Any ideas what I'm doing or might have done wrong? i do a lot of plumbing and used many 3way and 4 way diverters with no issues usually they are the ones that are separate from main valve but i figured this was the same.. Any help would be amazing.. Thanx for doing the vids u do!!!
I'm not 100% sure, that third port I have never used, however Delta has an extremely good customer service line so I would suggest calling them to find out for sure
It is for a tub spout. You can buy a six function diverter for a tub with shower head plus handheld. For a shower without a tub you would buy a 3 function diverter and cap the one on the right.
@@StarrTile meant to say shell are thicker. Strange that you’re having a hard time finding them. Aren’t you in a big city? I’m not in much of a big city, an hour outside of Buffalo, NY. and we have just about everything here.
It's not that I can't find it, it's that I would have to make a special trip to suppliers that I don't go to in order to obtain it and it's just not worth the effort for me
I see. Hey, if stitching together a few different material to make it work, if final product are the same and functional at the end. I do the same. #MakeItWork!
That value would work fine for the opposite wall. Which where my plumb in running. But, this is not the only valve that come with those screw stops. I did not hear why this valve/diverter combo is better than others as far as performance. Plus, I am wondering if it is better to have two separate valves instead of the combo.
At round 15 minutes in... cpvc will NOT get brittle unless UV light hits, for multiple days. Something like direct sunlight will ruin it, or vegetable oil, but under normal construction conditions, and a conscious effort to install that type of piping professionally, using it for a high rise situation is ideal. I highly recommend using it. It's easy to install, and the glue that's made for it cures in an hour under normal conditions. 19 minutes in, your sweat joints, and overall plumbing looks clean, 👌
Actually you were incorrect, every CPVC pipe that I've worked with that has cracked on me has never ever been exposed to anything because it's always been either behind a wall or under a floor, it gets brittle because of a chemical reaction of the chlorine in the water...it's garbage. And yes you are correct , it's easy to work with and the glue dries very quickly, but it's still garbage pipe when I can't trust it NOT to break.
@@StarrTile my experience exactly. I had to repair numerous pipe breakages from different contractors. They all said the same thing: I just nudged it and it broke. Old CPVC snaps with ease. Newer CPVC is much more flexible.
I’m using the same DELTA valve in a bathroom I’m renovating presently. However it looks like my finished wall (tiles) will go beyond the mud guard by around a quarter of an inch. Is that ok?
That stuff looks like fuze it. Probably the best glue on the market. Use it as the seam sealer on all my go board showers. Try getting things unattached after you use it, dam near impossible.
Those powder actuated anchors don’t work well on old concrete, it almost always blows out, but it’s hard to see because it’s under the plate, epoxy or expansion anchors are much better.
@23:34... are there enough fittings there? LOL I'm sorry, but no professional should ever use a Sharkbite. Just use a pex copper barb clamp fitting on the hot / cold, instead of all that.
I'm not a pex guy and most likely never will be, too flimsy.... but as I mentioned on the video the SharkBite I used is for a no pressure situation, going up to the shower head
having those shut offs adds complexity and therefore an extra fail point. you should have a separate line going to the washroom, and you should have a proper manifold installed. and you should shut off the water at the manifold, not with these shut offs, which are going to be behind the trim once you install everything. I am right handed by the handheld function is hanging on the left for me, because it is pointing away from the door. I can still grab the handle with my right hand of course. also, I would be more scared to put copper soldered connection inside the wall than a sharkbite. but really, there should be no copper there at all, because it's the 21st century and we have PEX now.
Are you using schluter as a pan liner and no preslope? Aren't you afraid of a leak? That goes against the manufacturer's instructions. Why not use kerdi drain? I hope it'll be fine. The shower looks great though.
If I thought there might be a leak I wouldn't have used it... the idea in any endeavor is to use all the tools at your disposal, Kerdi membrane is just another tool that I will use on occasion when it makes my job easier
@Indi Because as I said in the video the room I had to work with inside of that wall and against the steel stud made everything much more difficult so by the time I got to the shower head feed there was no reason to sweat , much easier to put in a shark bite on a pipe that's not under pressure
The Delta MultiChoice system is way over priced. Colors are not consistent throughout the line. Many accessories can't be found in for example brushed nickel.
