Not yet, Ignacio. Taking longer than expected. Other people are involved. It's in the works though! I usually do those "inside jobs" during the colder weather. That's why you see all these new videos of work being done outside right now. Soon though!
Thats some nice sounding and looking exhaust! Can’t get enough of the sound of a 6.2. I’m surprised that you didn’t straight pipe it, or maybe your just nicer to your neighbors than I am.
It's essentially straight-piped. That's a "Free-Flow" muffler. All it does it take that high-end "pop and crack" out. It leaves the full volume and breath. Nice and throaty! Headphones is the way to really hear what I'm talking about! Thanks for watching and commenting, Stefan.
Love the sound I'm swapping my 1987 suburban to a 6.2L I'm running the 6.5 manifolds and turbo ive already swapped it to a sm465/205 14 bolt 6 lug rear I love these old trucks they really don't make them like they used to
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage I had a shop replace the fuel sending unit because the fuel gauge didn't work and after that it ran terrible loosing power and started stalling until it finally wouldn't run anymore. The guys that did the work said they didn't know what was wrong with it and didn't want to work on it anymore. I took it to another guy and he's trying to figure out what's wrong.
@@daveshafer7908 These trucks are definitely a horse of a different color. Lots of mechanics are stumped and confused when they get into one of these. IMO the problem is over-thinking. These are very simple animals. Good luck. I hope the latest tech has success. If not, shoot some footage and let's see if we can work it out. I bet we can!
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage Just got the truck back. It ran great on the way home. Then this morning it took me 20 minutes to get it started and when I started driving it all the problems started coming back. :(
The duals for sure are nice if they aren't beat up like mine were. Duals also make it a lot easier to do transmission work, etc. My 2-into-1 setup, being a custom job, blocks access to things that weren't blocked before with the duals. Thanks for the view and comment, Shane.
Question, I see your replacement volt meter, does that need the 300 Ohm resistor across the contact like the original does? I need a new volt/charge meter in my M1009 and I'm not sure if I should buy modern or hunt down an original replacement gauge. The new exhaust sounds great, such an improvement over stock.
Hello Hkguitar. I did NOT need to add any resistors like the original had. The unit is plug and play! I've had no issues with it thus far either. Thanks for the view and the comment. Rock on!
@@RocknusUrbanCamouflage Quick question Sir, what brand/model Voltage/Charge Meter are you using? It might be easiest to just purchase the same for myself.
Best place to get your exhaust done if you're going to drive into New Hampshire is Southern New Hampshire undercar in Hampstead New Hampshire. He worked at Skip's garage doing exhaust for many many years then opened his own place in East Hampstead on route 111 he does excellent work best around
I've found most of mine on Facebook Marketplace with searches for M1008, M1009, M1028, CUCV, etc. Also, check out Govplanet.com. You should join every CUCV buy/sell group on Facebook too. I run a couple of CUCV/Squarebody pages on FB. You are lucky to live down south where the trucks have less rust. Good luck!
This is a 3"X24" Free-Flow muffler. This is a Lou's Custom Exhaust muffler pretty much based on a Magnaflow. It's their own brand. Thanks for watching and commenting, TJ.
HA HA! Truth! Business in the front. Party in the rear! This one is naturally aspirated (even though you can almost kinda hear a little turbo whistle now and then in the video. Weird!) Thanks for watching and commenting, DN.
That job was quoted at $1200. It's from the manifolds back. I was happy to pay that. The manager at Lou's noticed my vet plate and knocked the price down to $900. I thought that was very cool of him. I didn't ask. He just did it on his own. Can't say enough good things about Lou's in Kingston, NH. Thanks for the watch and comment, Ian.
It depends on how they're treated. I've seen 'em blow up under 30K and I've seen units with 240K that don't even have blow-by. These are good HD motors and if properly PM'd and handled should last a very long time.
I am thinking of converting my truck to a dual fuel tank, I only have the 2nd tank and the fuel gate off a donour truck, of course its from the left side but it wouldn't be a problem. Do you know how the dual tank work and what I'd need to pull this off?
The numbers on the fusible links am I to understand that's fuse amps? I'm searching my wires out based off the diagrams I upload from steel soldier and the blue wire to the fusible link that leads to the red wire that goes to the driver side generator is fried, so I'm wondering how to proceed.
The numbers you might see are usually wire gauge numbers. You want your fusible link to be 4 gauges smaller than the wire you are trying to protect. So if you had a 14 gauge wire that you wanted to protect, you would use an 18 gauge as your fusible link. If you are making your own fusible links, be sure that they are not only the same gauge as original, but same length too.
Is it the red fusible link that leads up to a junction box on the firewall from 2 red wires If so I just swapped mine and got a 16 gauge gm style…kinda hard to find unless you go to a old school parts store…I think a autozone or advanced will let you order….
Spare tire gets mounted under the rear of the bed (originally). I still have the tire mount under there, but will mount the tire elsewhere. Planning on mounting it on one of these... dirtcomusa.com/products/hitch-mounted-high-clearance-tire-carrier-swing-out
