Erik Cortina does similar to you except instead of seating deeper and trying again he just rubs imperial sizing die wax on the bullet and forces it closed, then snaps it open quick to not allow spring back. I've been doing it that way for years as well with really good luck.
He has a bunch of useful information. I'm also a big fan of his tuner brakes. I'm hoping to post a video soon comparing the results of the gen1 and gen2
FYI that you can use method #3 with a TL3. Pull the washer spring from the bolt head to get rid of the drag/resistance, put a tiny piece of tape on the bottom of the bolt to hold the cross pin in place, then feed the case into the bolt head under the extractor from underneath the mag well. Works great for both checking brass sizing fit as well as finding the lands.
I can get repeated results within a thousandth or two with the Hornady gage between the bullet sticking or not in a very loose neck. You only need to know within a few thousandths if that. When you start load development your changing depth and the touch point doesn't really matter down to a few thousandths, your adjusting for the best groups. You just want to know your not jamming it .020" or so and risking sticking a bullet. I generally don't go past .012" into the lands, so I'm safe even if where I thought touch was is off by .005". I hope that all made sense.😄
I agree that it gets you close enough and will do the job. Price starts to add up if you reload for quite a few calibers and can't thread a piece of brass yourself. Method 3 is to save a little money or if you're a little ocd haha
@@borderbattlemunitions5330 I did buy a tap to mod my cases 😊 and I have other guns that aren’t bolt action I reload for. It’s all good, just be safe.👍
Maybe someone is newer to reloading and using method 2 or 3 saves them from spending $50 on the gauge and case. Whatever works best for you is what I would go with.
