i was thinking about doing foam on top of existing plywood and then another layer of osb. one reason is i can’t find a carpet company that will install over this type of padding. so, the osb would allow them to place their pad atop. another reason is i currently have carpet and the carpet padding provides no sound proofing for impact noises
I dont know the the product names. Cant hear what is said. Im going to put down a floating floor wood plank on top of a glued down loop carpet. Also called "Indoor outdoor" carpet
it's not the part that makes the biggest difference but it's still important, without the batts you have a drum effect and the sound increase inside the floor cavity, by bouncing to itself.The most important sealing any gaps, fix squeaking, installing the top parts but since, we can't really stop the noise completely, only reduce as much as possible, the more we do, the better; of course, if you are limited with your budget, do the top only.
Between the joists I am using high density polyester sound absorbers 32kg/m3, 75mm thick, you can use higher densities, the higher the better, the higher the better reduction for low frequencies, they are the hardest to stop. On top of the floor I am using 10mm thick polyester 100kg/m3 density, it is soft enough to absorb footsteps. On top of that I am using a mass loaded vinyl (MLV) 8kg/m2, STC 30-32db You can use something else than polyester, such as glass wool, rock wool, etc...just try to find similar densities.
did you fill all of the cavity with the white slab between the joists e.g. if the cavity is 300mm deep did you fill it with 300mm of that white slab you used or did you fill it to 100mm or 200mm and leave a gap? thanks.
+ian tansy I am using 75mm thick batts (3 inches). If the cavity is 200mm, I'll try to use 2 layers of 75mm, so the total thickness will be 150mm, that's quite good, even 1 layer makes already a good difference, the problem is that a second layer is better than one layer but not twice better, less than that but the price will be double. so the more you put the better but the price will double or triple for small added performance. usually, I am installing one or two layers. On the other hand, if you put to much and you compress the batts between the floor and ceiling, you'll create a sound bridge and lose the benefit. the batts can touch the floor and the ceiling here and there but don't put too much and compress the material on both sides.In other words, one layer is the most cost effective, 2 layers is better but less cost effective and so on.
@@soundproofingexpert Really great advice given here, thanks so much! I've been struggling to find sound insulation videos performed from the above the joists as seen in the video! Most of the time they are installing from the floor below which, in my opinion, would create so much more work to replace the entire ceiling 😳. Thanks again, guys, really a super useful video for me. Also, Philippe, you are very likable 👍🏼
A single nail through into the wood below will break the acoustic sealing. To make this work you need to make a 'floating' floor there is TOTALLY decoupled from the surface below. The acoustic dampening and technique in the video do work BUT not so much as if this was made after the technique used in a music studio. Every Nail , piece of wood ect that penetrate is also where the sound wil travel. Professionals they make ' a room in a room ' where the room is practically floating without direct contact with walls celings floors ect. The inner room have it's own floor , walls and roof. All is effectively decoupled from the outher room using acoustic decouplers.
