I've made a lot of instructional videos in my teaching career, but I've never seen anything like this. I am now working with my G-6 canopy (MT-426 of the Finnish Ilmari Juutilainen, Taipalsaari June 1944), so this has been a very good help to me. Thank you very much!
Great start and an amazing job on the cockpit. Can only provide positive feedback as what you achieved with all the bits and bobs is visually super pleasing. Will be eager to see the whole build!
Hi buddy only just came across this video your cockpit looks awesome I like the way you explain what you are doing plus the products you are using as it helps me big time so thank you very much for sharing 😀. Cheers Gary from the UK 🇬🇧
You just proved without any doubt that the devil is in the details. My hat's off to you for having the most incredible amount of patience and a steady hand. There people who do modeling and there's people like you who not only go above and beyond what others are doing to take this hobby to a level that's rarely seen or done by most. You sir, are a true artist. ✊😉👍
Beautiful job on the pit. All the extra effort paid off, Eduard can be a bit of a head scratcher, and a pain when it comes to their aftermarket parts {let alone kits} so I think you did a great job getting this altogether. So for what you've done so far, the rest of the G6 should look pretty good. Congrats on the pit
Thx for sharing, I guess your never to old to learn something new, picked up some small tips as to brush paint with Tamiya, thx for that. If you have any tips on seatbelts plz let me know, most PE seatbelts even the aftermarket ones aren’t that realistic but you seem to nail that one too. I’ve been experimenting with thin strips of medical tape to create a fabric look and feel combined with cutting up PÉ seatbelt buckles but maybe there is a better way. 2 thumbs up and looking forward to part 2
Thanks, I like the HGW fabric seatbelts the most...kinda wish I would have used them here. Theyre harder than threading a needle though so be warned. Ive also used the tape method.
Looks fantastic I've got the cockpit engine and radio set plus photo etch to shoe horn into mine when I get round to building it (g 10 erla) from eduard
What was the half circle form you used? P.S. I went to my kitchen/bath outfitter and they gave me discontinued samples of marble and quartz and silastone. If you need a heavier piece of stone to bang on, try a tombstone supplier for any thing that has been screwed up
Its a rolling tool from a company called "the small shop". No affiliation, I just bought their stuff and its worked well. Nice strategy for the tile suppliers...Ill try that
You're work is cool mate have a f4 to paint soon so I was getting confused on the colors and such looks good to me 👍. I found using hairspray I can reactive it at any point, i have an experiment going on ATM a scratch built building thing. It's in 3 tone camo .... I first waited a day and I could chip it , then waited for it to be a week old and still can chip it then at a month old I could still chip it ... I am now waiting for month 3 i have two weeks left if it chips then, I will just assume it's just chipable until cleared.... I have never used chipping fluid maybe it's different that way
Thanks! I have never used hairspray but Ive seen it can get good results too. Good to hear that it remains chippable for so long. What brand of paint are you using?
Wondering to what kind of criticism I can add... simply fantastic and great the simple way you explain things that are for most of us difficult. So, in the end, you allow around 15 minutes for the chipping fluid to dry then you apply the second coat of base color. Another 15/20 minutes to dry and you can finally start the chipping process. Am I correct?
Thought you were getting a bit too carried away with the chipping but the finished cockpit looks awesome nice work I’d like to see the finished model yes we do need to see another G6
Thats always a concern and definitely on my mind. I go a little overboard and then dull it down. p.s. Ive also wondered the same....does the internet need another 109 lol
That looks good. You might like to try Citadel base colours for your yellows and blues because they have much stronger pigments. May save you having to undercoat the cables etc. Enjoyed the video.
