BIG TURBO PRL P600 VS RV6 R660 600HP CIVIC TYPE R COMPARISON 

No doubt!!! He really loves this stuff and always learn

Thanks man, trying educate the rest of the group!

@@maganamfg I found the chat Sergio was talking about on civicx and that was pretty interesting also.

Glad you enjoyed, just 2 enthusiasts talking bout our experiences

Solid choice - youll want to upgrade the compressor housing with the intergrated inket when they release it as well - will make more power across the board with the anti-surge

lol I wish - more to come soon! More revs = more power

Hope it helps

A variety of turbos will get you there but as mention, won’t need to go such a high boost to get there 💪💪

@@maganamfg I will also get cams later, so I will be reving the car to at least 7,600rpms. This drop in is the way to go unless I get a gseries turbo kit and I already bought the PRL GESI cat that only works with drop in

Glad to hear!!!

It’s our pleasure man, mad love, and we trying educate those future builders.

Appreciate the kind words man Hopefully my jpurney can help others meet their goals safely and have a positive experience with an amazing car.

I’m glad to hear! Hope you learned bro

Glad you think so! Appreciate the support.

Stay tuned - new dyno coming next week 👍

Thanks for the tip, I’ll let him inow

They don't make a 4" inlet Their inlet is 2.5" at the turbo and about 2.75" inner diameter at the intake box They make a 4" maf housing which is what I'm using to flow this on a stock Honda sensor The true 4" inlet would need a custom turbo compressor housing to maintain that diameter all the way to the turbo. RV6 is designing a compressor housing with an intergrated antisurge that should be 3" or larger at the turbo to increase flow and minimize turbulence at the fins. I would love a true 4" inlet from box to turbo but that would limit compatability with the majority of smaller intakes. 3" would still be a big step up from the tiny 2.3" the stock inlet has at the turbo.

Thanks for your feedback and view, yes I to regret buying an fk7 than a fk8 less than a year later. Should have bought the bullet in the get go. Fk7 was $450 a month for 60months, and than fk8 was $695 for 60months. It sounds like a a lot but when you already at $450, another $250 doesn’t sound much. So will need about $10k invested to be near 300ish hp

@maganamfg yes unfortunately this is the case. I've already replaced the headgasket once around 50k miles and did the arp headstuds but I'm not sure the engine will like a bigger turbo being its a tiny 1.5. My tuner said I should be fine if i limit the torque but not sure if the engine will agree lol. Love my SI coupe but miss my old built wrx somedays and it's 400hp. The 35mpg is nice tho in the SI. Only upside imo.

@@shainrichter3338 yeah keep your tq numbers low and you should be okay,

@maganamfg I'm thinking I may just do it in the near future. We'll see after the holidays. Thanks for the replies man. You have a great day! Can't wait to see future videos!

@@shainrichter3338 have a great week! Thanks for the support

The MHI stg 2 is a good turbo - just has a small hotside vs this RV6 allows for more revs/top end on same boost

Nice bro! Personally I don’t plan to go over 500hp one day so this is the turbo I plan to do also! Being MHI

Sorry don’t have technical explaination on correcting this. IG is @speedySerg try asking him.

I did when i did mine. I just had to take a breather and come back to it. Takes some finesse but itll go right in

@@Fk8_Theory I emailed rv6 and they told me to ever so gently pull on the arm to get it to go over the waste gate since I just needed to "overcome the motor". I haven't had any issues with the waste gate

its just fittings - turbo is in stock location with the in/out in the same place - the -10 fittings just allow for more flow thru the turbo to reduce heat and keep the bearings/coolant happy. They include all the AN fittings with the turbo - high quality stuff

@@TheFK8Life so the fittings won’t be an on both sides? Just the turbo side and have a factory “barb” fitting on the opposite side? Or will an lines have to be run all the way from where it leaves the block?

@@johncandy7114 The fittings are on the in and out - all the hardware came with the turbo - also the stainless feed line All the hardware is pretty solid. I had JSR install so cant tell you about the block but was a seamless install with provided hardware.

Sadly no, I haven’t met anyone with a P700 to speak of it.

What don’t you like about the p700?

RV6 released the R710 recently - it provides even more top end power than this R660 - but should be paired with TR2 cams from 4P to really spool it and take advantage of the bigger wheel

Hmmmm I’m not sure

We have realized it can easily support up to 600hp, anything after that you will need motec and a bigger turbo. In another video with Sergio on his custom fuel system with 2000cc injectors, built head he is pushing near 600hp.

@@maganamfg do u think I can push around 470 wheel horsepower with a full exhaust prl intake prl intercooler prl inlet pipe hondata fuel system (1000cc injectors) and a rv660 turbo?

Yes definitely can with fuel system and turbo, any updates!

Good question, until we have butt dyno testing and maybe a dyno chart to see we don’t know.

The R660 is waiting on the anti surge compressor housing which should bump peak power another 15 to 20whp - that would get it to about 580- 585whp on e55....while that number is a record in itself - the real impressive part is its ability to carry that power on stock cams to 7600+ rpm The p700 has backpressure issues just like my p600 does - the p700s larger wheels just make higher power before hitting that backpressure wall around 7k or so