@BlackDiamondEquipmentLtd has created a sewn anchor system that mimics the functionality of a "quad" anchor. There is lots of controversy over this thing already. If you use a quad anchor, is this something you might entertain using?
I would say, it’s meant to optimize a solution, not solve a problem that can’t be solved in a different way. Nothing wrong with that. I do think this doesn’t optimize very well.
I like the idea of a sewn, not knotted quad, since knots reduce strength so much, as well as create bulk. Of course, that’s the classic trade-off between specific gear and generalist gear. If you don’t want that, fine, don’t use it. My issue with this thing is, like others mentioned, that for most modern anchors, especially for bolts, we focus more on reducing extension than on equalizing forces. Why was this not sewn with the bar tacks much lower down, to reduce extension? If your two pieces are so weak that you need to fully equalize them, you wouldn’t use something like this anyway. So, the second strong piece of pro (good bolts or ice screws) is solely for redundancy. In which case, you need to minimize extension so they can provide that back up if one piece blows. And as others have mentioned, he calls it “redundant” because it’s 2 layers of webbing sewn on top of each other. I don’t call that redundant, I call that twice as strong. Both we don’t need more strength than a single sling (22kN) already provides! What we want is redundancy in case one is cut somehow. Having the two strips of webbing entirely separate increases the odds of one surviving a “cutting event” (rockfall, rubbing on a sharp edge). Or, perhaps the weight would be better spent with some kind of sheath, or added (aramid) material, to increase cut/abrasion resistance.
@@andrewhunter6536 except it's twice as beefy. Also, anybody ever actually died from their anchor getting cut by a falling rock? Any rock that will cleanly cut through two strands of dyneema webbing is going to slice through you.
@@sebastianflynn1746 they are directly on top of each other so the same rock fall would cut both. On an episode of the sharp end podcast some people survived because they had a master point when one leg was cut. They even comment that it was so central that even a sliding x with limiter knots would have failed. So I wouldn’t use this on a total choss pile. On bolted anchors it looks nice but still in redundancy seems close to a sliding x
@irahughes8931 yeah, but a Quad has all the functionality of a sling/cordelette. So slightly more weight, I get much more value. Also, not sure this is less bulky than PowerCord or VTX
Seems to lack redundancy to cuts from rockfall like a sliding x (on a quad you normally clip multiple strands). Sliding x seems like a better comparison than a quad and that’s even lighter
@@Mrwhomeyou I don’t know how likely it is (many redundancies in climbing are for unlikely things) but a tight sling is not hard to cut and sometimes big sharp rocks fall. Rock fall has even cut climbing rope before but that’s very extreme. These are just my initial thoughts but I guess there are other plausible cutting options.
@@andrewhunter6536 I agree, I like the protective sheet of cords and they're also cheap. I can see this product fill a niche in the more sporty multi pitches, not really the adventure type
Soft eye on a normal 120cm sling or a Bue Ice alpine runner with an 8 are more comfortable and more versatile in the 2 bomber bolts scenario. Also: How do you transport this nicely?
3:39 why would you equalize if you have bomber bolts. I never understand why people always want to equalize everything. Would be curious how it looks with very offset bolts (one higher I mean). Something built like a daisychain, but in a stronger way would be quite cool for belay stations...
@@Mrwhomeyou if you have a really good equalization, you would put fifty fifty on each bolt. If your are a party of two, approx 1kn on each bolt (so the same as not equalize) Now if you have a setup like the one drawn on this sling packaging, you have not a 0degree angle, more a 70 degree, so no more a fifty fifty. It will look to 60 - 70% of the whole load on each bolt, with time to time peak load were one of the two bolt receive everything (equalization are never perfect). If the second fall and you are belaying in guide mode, anchor will hardly see more than 2.5kn. so i still don't see interest to equalize as it put more effort on bolts that in non equalized scenario. If you have a large party, built a great and clear equalized anchor is interesting of course
@@MrHassancehef I always try to equalize every time in case I get too exhausted on a big trad day and forget. If I equalize every time then my dumbass will do it on low battery too.
should the climbers not be lobotomized I think this is a pretty darn easy to use anchor (hard to get much more simple). people will always find a way to receive Darwin Awards, but I dont think this will give them any advantage when it comes to earning one. Part of me wants to hate this because its too specific, its not as versital as a bla bla, and, maybe the only legitimate gripe I have might be its expensive (I’m admittedly cheap so….maybe that is a non issue too - I still intend to buy at least one). Yeah I could buy a 180cm/240cm sling (double it, tie two knots) and have something to see the same purpose. Dont most people just leave their quad anchors pre configured anyways? I carry accessory cord or super tape for emergency raps, etc so Im not concerned with needing to cut up my anchor runner in order to survive (wouldn’t want to make/use knotted dynema rap slings anyways).
