I love that you make your vids more like documentaries, with the record of your voice explaining what you do rather than just filming and get a crappy sound.
1 of the best forging videos i have seen like the way you go about making these videos.. good for guys like me just starting to do blacksmithing and only being self taught....
Once again EXCELLENT video. Love the new camera! Very cinematic! Please please do a heat treat video, that would be great! Thanks again for making these, I'm learning more everyday!
Great video. Love how you took the sounds of the hammer down and did your voice over so you can hear your instructions and commentary. I am definitely going to try this method! Cheers!
awsome! I bacame interested in blacksmithing recently and i will start to learn from one of the best blacksmiths in my country (i am lucky that he lives just 5 minutes away from me) and i must say that your videos are a big help for getting me started! thank you :)
Good grief I'm so envious of both your camera and your channel, your going from strength to strength and its so fascinating seeing the work that goes into such simply instruments :D
+Aartwood Thanks Craig :) I have been lucky with all the fine folk who have subscribed :) The new camera is indeed very nice and I think that it has made a devil of a difference! I love showing how I make things too!
In a country with all the tools and schools to learn it is already hard. Imagine being a blacksmith in a country with no memory of old trades, like Brazil. I'm making my tools from a train track, truck springs and youtube videos.
+Justin Brown Thanks mate, it's really kind of you to say. I'm getting a few more subs and views every week. I enjoy showing what I do and making the vids. I'm sure fame and fortune will come soon!
We used a medium carbon grade railroad spike for our Tomahawk project. Haven't finished it yet though but, half way done. Just got to busy with other projects that the teacher were put in front of us.
+Colin Cofield Was it punched or folded? We don't have RR spikes over here. I struggle to finish projects sometimes when something more interesting comes along. I occasionally get an anxious message from a client asking if I have had time to finish their bits and bobs yet, lol. Very unprofessional of me!
@@RowanTaylor Sounds like me... But with all projects, my friend calls it creative ADD lol... I blame youtube. Almost had a Tomahawk done but it cracked in Heat Treat :(
nice work. Most of the hatchets and axes we use get alot of abuse so we tend to go with 1060 for the bit. a little easier to dress in the field with a file. great hammer work you have.
Nice to see a skilled smith on youtube who doesn't act like a super tough guy from the middle ages or a pretentious weirdo constantly drumming the hammer on the top of the anvil
"Today we're doing traditional axe construction." -before stick welding it :P I jest. Thank you for the video; you've given advice to me on facebook before about welded axes, so I mean it when i say thanks.
+DulishusWaffle 1: Smartarse. 2:Arc welding is over 100 years old and so is a traditional technique :P 3: The construction is traditional even if the tools aren't. 4: you're welcome and it is real nice to hear from someone I have helped (or hindered) in the past mate :) I'm more than happy to help any time :)
This is the way a true axe should be made with the carbon steel bit sandwiched in the middle. One question for you is when you put the carbon bit of spring steel could it be wider than the mild steel so the mild steel wont push out over it as you cross peen ? I seen how you beveled the edges around the bit but only wandered if a slight wider bit would solve this problem or cause more problems.?.! I respect you fellows who get on here and show your skills of your craft to all the world. I wish I had the skills to put together videos of my homemade diesel refinery from old used oil all made from discarded machines and other junk.
I have an antique folded axe but unfortunately it's now broken, I'd very much like to make a replacement following your guide but am unsure as to what size of stock I should start with? The original axe measures 7" long x 5" wide at the face and 3-1/2" at the shoulders the heel? Of the axe is 2-1/2" wide 1" thick and there's 3/4 of an inch before the hole. I'm not sure my measurements will help but any assistance would be great fully received. Thanks and also your videos are fantastic straight to the point and full of information thanks again
Cheers for the vid. I'm interested to see a non traditional type construction as a contrast, would this be a more "power hammer/spring swage" technique?
What leg vise do you use? I haven't seen many with thin jaws like that. I'd imagine it's good for nail making if you have to make nails in a size you don't have a header for.
Great informative vid shows lots of detail with great commentary and very good camera shots, looking forward to the next. How much would the axe head cost by the way.
+Mark Lambert Thanks for the kind words :) I try and set up the camera so you can see the steel moving and WHY it is moving if that makes sense. I sell them for £90 hafted + postage. The head on it's own I sell for £50.
Love it! One of the best made forging videos I've seen! How do you get the colours of the steel so nice on camera? Somehow you seem to move the metal so much faster and cleaner than I can! The tomahawk is amazing! You deserve so many more subscribers!
What was the thickness of the mild steel you started with Rowan i can't quite make out if you said it in the beginning or not is it 3/8th of an inch? , love your videos by the way i just stumbled upon them today
Yesterday i tried to weld two outer layers of springsteel go a center piece of 2842, although i was sure i had reached welding temperature and weighed my blows carefully, to not damage my carbon-steel, i still had black lines at the sides of my finished billet. I used quartz sand because i was out of borax, may have something to do with it. Any tips?
you might want to secure you anvil to it's base a little sturdier, it rings quite a lot. Other than that, great video, you're clearly very skilled with the hammer.
+Hellstorm1190 Yes, I have been meaning to relocate it and make a proper stand for a while. It is just in a temporary position at the moment - though it has been there for 18 months lol.
I just spoiled my fourth attempt at this project. I keep breaking the piece where the cheek meets the straight part right at the set down. I am taking too many heats and fatiguing the metal. I think my hammer is wider then the cheek so I keep moving the straight bit as well. I will give it another go. I think I am getting better as it as I wrecked it with fewer heats. It is hard to learn a trade without a master.
Gorgeous work. I'm 18 in the US and I discovered metal work last year. Met a great group of guys in my area that are helping to teach me and it's always great seeing blacksmiths on youtube. I didnt quite get the dimensions for this starting stock, what were they?
+MockingToaster Cheers pal :) The stock is 25 x 10 and you want 8 3/4 inches of it/ Mark the lower end of the eye 2 1/2 inches from each end of the bar and the top end of the eye at 4 inches from each end, giving you a poll of 3/4 inch. Good luck :)
Hi, is it a cost thing to only use a small piece of high carbon steel at the edge of the axe blade? Or does it make for a better blade to combine, weld, the two steels?
+MrGrimm1911 Punched heads will be stronger overall but the folded heads I find much less hassle to make. They are a lot easier on your drifts too as you aren't pounding on them and forcing them through the eye. That doesn't mean that the folded head is weak, by the way. Many other people will find the punched head easier because of the lack of firewelding, so I suppose it is each to his own.
The only thing "bad" about this video is that I didn't find it earlier on youtube. I was always searching on how to forge a folded axe and not a hatchet, but it's basically the same principle.
Sorry lol. i don't come up in the top search terms on youtibe sadly. Have a look at the Merovingian axe I have done as it may be more similar to what you are after but without the languets on top of the poll.
+RowanTaylor Ha, no worries, I blame it on youtube ;) . Thanks for the videos by the way. I am wondering about one thing, are you using wrought iron ? I saw you did it for the viking hammer (I guess this is the most historical accurate) but isn't wrought iron too soft to form the body of most hitting tools such as axes, adzes, hammers etc ? Most smiths I follow on youtube use mild steel. I have a ton of wrought iron and I'd honestly prefer to recycle it instead of buying steel. On a side note, I have a old blacksmithing book from 1939 and they use wrought iron all the time to make the body of tools. If you are interested I could scan it and upload it.
I don't know about the shoulder, but you can seriously damage the tendons in your hand and wrist that way. Most people do it for more control, when they'd be better off choking up on the handle and/or using a smaller hammer.
Lovely Video but when you were drawing out the cheeks using the crosspeen you liked like you were hammering cold steel or it could be the camera made it look darker than it was
thanx for the diy for the ax forging with the wrap method. i have a nice piece of steel that is from a leaf spring. it's fat, thick and not long. i want to wrap forge it but am looking for how i want the broad ax to look. my trough forge only gets to around 1500 degrees (i'm guessing because i can melt aluminum but not brass). my forge burns wood and it's similar to the Whitlox Wood Fired Forge build. except mines around 4 feet long and i control the air flow with two pipes and have 5 air flow zones along the forge. I can build up the temperature with saw dust poured onto the wood (I cut my wood kibble into 1.5 inch squares from sheets of ply wood or composite wood. how high should i get the temperature to wrap weld steel? i've only made a crossbow (31 inches by 1.5 cm) and a gladius (21 inches). my belt sander died so i have two more knives to finish once i get a new one. i was thinking of starting the ax project while i wait for a sale at canadian tire for another belt sander.
Monkey Boy From what I understand you'll want to get the steel to a bright orange color, which is around 1900°F, but it will vary based on the steel you use. However, it's very important that you don't get the piece too hot, as that can ruin the steel's composition, thus making a shitty tool. You'll need some charcoal to get your forge to these temps, and you can even make your own with the wood you already have if you don't want to buy any. Just look up DIY charocal on here and you'll find some good tutorials. Another method to get higher temps would be to add extra airflow to a concentrated area. That may be especially helpful for your forge, as you said that it's rather long with a few (I assume) spaced out air entrances
Monkey Boy On a side note I've also heard that some leaf spring can be rather difficult to forge weld, as it has some chromium in it, and the metal will want to slide on itself instead of sticking together. Some extra flux should help with that tho. Hopefully my advice was helpful. If you decide to try it let me know how it went!
+Louis Sturt I did the technical course. You learn a lot more techniques than you do on the artist course. You will enjoy Holme Lacy, it is a great place! Give my regards to the tutors, though Chris and Pete are retiring next year sadly :(
quick question...what kind of steel is the "jacket" made of? you mention the type of steel for the insert, never hear about the main body of the axe head.
+Jeffrey Fogleboch Sorry about that - the camera microphone is rubbish! I have gotten a better microphone since, though! The starting stock for this is 25mm x 10mm
+Andy H Thank you so much! I don't know if you did it about six or seven hours ago but I have had more views this afternoon than I have had in the past week :) Much appreciated and I'm glad you like it!
+Andy H I had a look and actually joined, though it might go the same way as when I joined twitter and just ended up throwing rocks and poop at the computer in frustration. I did post on there earlier but I can't see it anywhere so maybe if I shout really loud it will listen!
+Adam Barnes How can you tell? I haven't had any issues with the welds coming apart during drifting or heat treating. I don't usually use flux at all for welding because good fire-control is the most important part of welding - have a look at my scarf welding video. Flux just evens out the odds a bit where carbon steel is involved. I am happy to learn though.
+RowanTaylor the fusion between the two metals wasn't complete. and that could be some micro amounts of mill scale. as for the Flux you can put the borax into a diner style mustard bottle will keep it dry and makes it easier to coat your work. I could give more insight if I could see the work with my own eyes. keep up the good work.
+RowanTaylor the fusion between the two metals wasn't complete. and that could be some micro amounts of mill scale. as for the Flux you can put the borax into a diner style mustard bottle will keep it dry and makes it easier to coat your work. I could give more insight if I could see the work with my own eyes. keep up the good work.
