11:14 Tool Tip incoming! With that brush push or pull only. Don't do both. the old worn wire brush you used to use both was needed as is any wire brush even if the wire brush was brand new, but that brush you have now one direction only gets the cleanest results, brush/lift/brush/lift. You want to train the brush in a way. New, the bristles(plates) are 90 degrees from the handle, the more you use it in one direction they start to bend to conform with that direction. Once they do they start cleaning the material cleanly because they are not skipping back to 90 degrees mid brush stroke. You want the edges of those plates that make up the bristles to scrape along your piece rather than skip across it and they will do that only when they are bent to conform with your one way brush stroke. Each time they straighten back to 90 degrees they dig into the material and since it is all the bristles doing it, it makes an uneven brushing, I would notch the handle on the brush in the direction to use it so you can physically feel what direction to brush without looking just incase you want to swap directions for some reason. The reason the plates(bristles) are 90 degrees from the handle is every smith will have a different brush stroke, some always pull, most push. They all use different amounts of pressure too. They would need to make an infinite amount of variety in brushes that still needs to be trained. Plus it's cheaper to make knowing the smith using it will train the bristles. Anywho that was a tip for a tool to make it easier to use and more effective rather than a criticism on your work.
Thanks for the video. I'm a beginner not as a profession but just to fool around and enjoy. I feel the most valuable part of your videos are your running commentary. It gives an insight into how you are thinking during the process of creating. Keep up the good work.
Its been a year or two since i last watch your videos Chandler, and i cant remember why i stopped. Life, most likely. Either way, im glad youre still going strong and im glad to see you've made this an even bigger success than the last time a saw you!
Very neat idea! I have some friendly constructive criticism to offer here, hope you don't mind, but I believe one reason your weld wasn't taking that well is because the scarfs weren't doing what they should be. The apex on the top and one the bottom of the pieces, when set on each other, should be directly inline with each other. On yours they were to the left and right of each other, which caused them to want to slide/shear away from one another which can be seen when the one spike shot off the anvil after you hit the scarf. This way also allows for all the mass to be in the center of were the weld is going to take place, so you can have that extra material to compensate for scale loss and forge welding etc.. Check out Mark Aspery's "scarf theory" vid and/or Rowan Talor's vids on "how to scarf weld". They are both presented in a great way to understand and really see what's going on with a scarf weld. Also, one design suggestion for the next one of these you make is that you could bring the back of the handles and the blade's spine in line with each other by hitting with a "half on half off blow" with the blade just over the edge of the anvil. This should help lower the blade and raise the handles allowing for the extra blade width for knuckle clearance when cutting. Thanks for sharing, Chandler! Take care :)
35:13 I miss the forgeside cooking vids when you made the frying pans and wok. First make the pan then season it and finally cook with it followed with the satisfying chow down. Good fun with tasty looking food. 38:00 The term needed is Carbonization. You are cooking off everything but the carbon from the oil so you have a light carbon layer ontop of the steel. This carbon layer is what makes cast iron pans non stick until carbonization begins in the cooking process, as in burnt food. Non stick surfaces like Teflon are mostly just carbon, if you season a cast iron pan enough times it will be more non stick than any Teflon pan without all the chemicals used to make Teflon. Simply burnt on oil rather than made in a chemists lab.
Well guess i'm eating pizza for lunch,... Thanks CD. What if you would have upset the end on both then tried a butt weld? I'm guessing here,... i've tried to forge weld a RR spike once with no luck.
nice pizza slicer. if i was you i would of just video myself eating the pizza specially after a long day. great idea for the fairs what will be the next thing to make and take ?. if i lived in the USA i would differently would try to get to one of those fairs. i do love the recycling you are doing.
Coulda just ordered a pizza garlic bread if it's the cheese that doesn't agree with you :) I like it. Looks good. Treat it like a prototype, and come back another time with what you learned.
If you buy some food grade FLAX oil (linseed oil) you can boil it yourself and it won't have the added chemicals that the store bought stuff has in it.......mix with bees wax and is a great finish......that is what I use on my cast iron cookware.....ok so I use the flax oil and bees wax in alternating coats to build up......but once seasoned, I use the oil about once a week and every other week I use beeswax.
