Used your vid and did it ! BUT like you I couldnt get the kits adaptor onto my seastar V 1.7 helm. I was very very careful and still stripped it. I looked at it closer and it almost looks like the adaptor is wrong , for mine anyway . I used the one supplied with my seastar kit and it went great . Again Thanks to your video I got it done in 15 min ( Great Idea with the tripod) Thanks and tight lines
Hi. Nice video. What is the name of the quick connectors you use to hook up the hose between the bleed walves in the back. I am trying to by the correct fittings here in Norway. I have understudd that thise fittings are some kind of pressure air fittings, but there are so many differet types.
Rectus 21 quick connect. They fit the bleed nipples perfectly, just like his video shows. Got one at Flow and Motion Fluid connectors. The quick connectors are smaller than automotive style. They seem to be used more in window washing pressure washing. Marine Tech tools is where I got other two sets, now 14.00 US for for male/female set. Helm fitting is 1/4 mpt with barb. I used a couple of O-rings to get good seal. In England, the rectus 21 size/name is popular, can buy them all day. The nice thing is they seal shut when disconnected, no messy leakage of oil in boat. Great video by the way.
I have a sea star tilt column, Have the same kit, tried yesterday to do this. My helm does not have a port on top, I have 2 on the underside. I used the bottom one as it was the most accessible. Did the bleed, had the bottle above the helm port with solid fluid in the hose, never once saw an air bubble on the helm tube, had plenty in the rear at the motor. I did not punch a hole in the bottle. turned the wheel hundreds of time and never got the air out at the rear. Only was able to do it by cracking the rears one at a time to get rid of some of the air but not enought I have yet to see a video with the Sea Star helm reservoir like mine. Do I try the upper port with is harder to access, punch a hole in the bottle or ? Anyone else have this system? System barely took any fluid out of the bottle. Needless to say, it has to be re done. Again I have the exact same kit.
I open both and if I see a large air bubble in the line between the two bleeders I will close the bleeders, remove the line, remove the bubble, reinstall the line, open the bleeders and continue the bleed.
Anyone know the size of the quick disconnect fittings on the SeaStar bleeders? There is NOTHING at our local hardware that fits on there. The standard air chucks (4 style I know of plus universal) don't seem to fit and still allow for a leak if moved. Is this a size more for hydraulic operations? If so what is the spec?
Nice video. How come some videos show the tubing from the bleeder valves coming all the way back to fill the bottle of fluid (recirculate). This seems simpler but I guess I don't understand how each one will properly bleed the air out.
This is the way I do it, super simple. Use a T at the cylinder end to tie both bleeder lines together, and run the line from the T back to a helm fill bottle (with the bottom cut off so it's like a funnel). Keep enough fluid in the funnel so no air gets sucked into the helm, undo the bleeders and then lots of wheel rotation both directions until the returning fluid from the cylinders has no bubbles. Given no air is entering at the helm end, eventually the fluid will be clear with no bubbles. Lock off the bleeders, and use a container to catch all the fluid in the bleed tubing which can be re-used. Works great!
I definitely messed that up, but it was more because my hands were cold and the tube was curved. I would have much preferred to use the kit as intended. Hehe, sometimes I am a bit of a klutz.
Works better if you prefill the clear tube on the stern. This way you don't introduce more air in the system, from the start. The newer kits have brass fittings.
