Spending time in the garage working on projects.
Fixing my 1970 BMW 2002 race cars differential after a problem at the track. Been racing this set up for 15+ years and never had the differential apart... though one time had the pinion nut come loose before.. Loctite held for many years, but now its time to do it right. Taking apart, cleaning, painting and replacing the seals and crush sleeve.
Costs:
Seals ~ $15 (for three)
Crush Sleeve ~ $5
Nut Plate = priceless ($1.50)
Tools used:
metric wrenches
bead blast cabinet
torque wrench
breaker bar
long pipes....
10-100 in-lb torque wrench (small) if you want to get picky... not a regular torque wrench
this was an easy-ish project, and the cleaned up differential really looks nice, but the crush sleeve was way harder to torque than I anticipated... they have use these crush sleeves for a long time... and still do, surprised there was not more information about installing... what a PITA... just need to keep tightening until there is no play an just starting to "drag". the GM video I watched had a 20 inch-pound "drag" measurement on the pinion to determine when the the crush sleeve was tight enough...
Update:
I was pointed in the right direction for the spec for the resistance on the pinion shaft... this is with no differential in place, MAX 300 +- 30 Ncm without seal, MAX 320 +- 30 Ncm with seal... this is MAX value and 300 Ncm is 2.2 Ft-Lbs. This very little and you need a small accurate torque wrench to measure these values.... just starting to get tight is well within the MAX category. MAX means don't go over this valve..... just as MIN108 ft-lbs for the pinion nut is the minimum to hold, but I used way more.
in the end no play in the pinion, worked great at the next race....
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1 окт 2024
