This video shows you how to replace rear brakes on a BMW 3 Series 2006 to 2010 This car in this video is a 2008 328I sedan. Sorry for the low volume. Need a better microphone.
Many Thanks, a great tutorial / step by step guide. I have this & the front brake tutorial saved so dont worry if your viewed numbers double, its only me 🙂
Did mine yesterday. Very easy, taking just over 3 hours including a tea break. Easy to reset the Brake Pad warning light on the dash once a new Brake Wear was fitted. Thanks again for the update.
Very well done video. I have almost everything ready to do my first brake / rotor job and both videos (front and rear brakes, sensors and rotors) produced by Mr. Nicoya have been extremely helpful. The part that I am in doubt is that I also need to flush (bleed) the brake fluid. So, what do I do first? Brake job and then brake fluid bleeding? Please advise. Thanks.
MFC1029 Empty the master cylinder by sucking out the old fluid first. After you depress the brake caliper pistons you will need that space for the fluid that was in the calipers. Then empty it again. After you’re done replacing all brakes then you can bleed the brake system if you like.
Great video!!! Do you apply parking hand brakes prior to changing rear brakes and rotors? My rear rotor is stuck and is very stubborn even after whacking with hammer many times. Wonder if it's due to hand brakes being applied? Any suggestions? Thanks!
@@InitechAuto Once the hand brake was released, it came off easy. Thanks a lot for the tutorial. Any idea what's the wheel lug torque setting for 17" 328xi?
I see that you are doing this to a E90 (3 -series), but i have a E87 (1-series). This procedure is similar on my car isn´t it? People tell me that these 2 cars are built almost similar. Could you tell me if that is correct?
Hey Nicoya, so I followed every step and I'm hearing rubbing. Will that last a couple days and stop? It's constantly rubbing after I stop at a light or something
@@InitechAuto I mean the rubbing sound is getting better. But the rotor I was working with had the E-brake on it which made it kinda difficult to take off. I didn't use a torpedo level to see how straight it was
Hi Nicoya, do you not need to apply any anti-freeze on the pads themselves? I see you apply it on the rotor mount (where you removed the rust) and in the gaps. But not on the pads?
Lol anti freeze. Its anti seize. It is used as a way to make things not stick together. The pads dont need it as they will consistently be moving and you dont want anything in between the pads or the rotors.
Kind of unrelated question....my trunk brake lights dont work... Things i have done Tested light bulbs Tested housing for continuity Checked the wires going into the frame rubber boot ... The fog light part works fine as well as all brake lights and reverse lights . Fuses behind glove box
@@MegaCdunn Check for voltage at the Footwell module when the brake pedal is depressed. Not sure about your vehicle. But on mine, it would be pin #40 If you get voltage, then your problem is in the wiring. If you get no voltage. Then most likely a have a bad Footwell Module.
@@InitechAuto thankyou sooooo much I'll check that in the next few days and be sure to let you know ... if there is no voltage what would be my next step...if there is voltage its gonna be a wire hunt is what I gather
Great video, but I would not of pushed the old brake fluid back into the system. I would of cracked the bleeder screw and pushed it out while blocking the blake line. I found out that most of the dirty fluid ends up behind the brake pistons and could cause problems with the ABS system.
T Rock That very well may be. I can only tell you this. I’ve been an auto mechanic for over 35 years. I’ve always done brakes this way. I have never encountered a problem with this method. Plus remember, BMW has a brake fluid flushing maintenance routine. The ABS system is not that delicate. One more thing. In BMW own service manual it shows my method being used. Thanks for your input.
@@celesteramirez7768 if the dashboard wear light came on yez, also if they been on the car along time they can be hard to get off without breaking them, reply probably abit late :p
Check your connection to be sure you plugged the sensor in right. Second, do a reset in your service menu, that should fix that. He shows you how to do that in the video where he changed the front brakes, look it up, it's by the same user.
The reason is that as the brake pads wear it will rub on the sensor and break the electrical connection. That is what makes the brake dash light come on. It is good practice to replace the sensor at each brake job.
@@Tpet84 This is my question as well. If one is proactive and replaces the pads prior to the sensor being broken by contact, is it ok to not replace the sensor?
Great video but you forgot a few points. Discs from factory come with layer of film/oil. This needs to be cleaned off with brake cleaner before installation. Also, make sure the handbrake is down else you'll have a very hard time getting the caliper and pads off. Great video otherwise thanks!
Thanks for your input. But I have to correct you on the factory rotors. They come with a grey special coating that is not to be removed as you can see in the video. If you are using aftermarket rotors they will come with that oil protectant that needs to be cleaned off. As far as the parking brake being on. You will not be able to remove the brake rotors with them engaged. But yes, make sure they are off. :-)
@@InitechAuto you're right. I read the instructions on the discs and it said not to remove the grey protection! Did my discs and pads a few days ago and your video helped a lot dude thank you 😁
@@keithp8653 Are they rusted on? Or has someone worked on the vehicle before and overtightened them? They should be torqued to around 50-foot lbs. Which in my opinion is easy.
Highly recommended. Most of the time the sensor breaks when you try to remove it from the brake pad. But if you manage to remove it without breaking it then you can reuse it.
