So what happens if i did touch pin 85 with power? I think i accidentally did and now its not reading any fuel pressure. It was only ready 8-10 to begin with
@@hatetombofficial2954 Check your power fuses. Also check your PCM fuses. Did you replace the fuel pump? Pin 30 should have power. The only time pin 85 has power is with the ignition on during crank mode and while the vehicle is running.
Probably cause that's the hardest and time staking part don't make videos that aren't fully education I apologize but I learned nothing that basically unscrewing this an do that one
Thanks for this video! Out of all the difficult things in this tutorial I had the most trouble with the two screws that hold the harness bracket to the runners. I ended up losing one screw as it fell into oblivion while putting it all back together. FYI, Harbor freight sells a flex head ratchet that is thin and long with 3/8 and 1/4 inch on either ends that does the job for the back bolt holding the starter.
hiii ! i am sooo dumb w cars- plz help a 22 year old girl out 🥺 my car shop quoted me upwards of 3k for all these lil tiny tasks im just tryna do myself. windshield wiper fluid pump needs replacing, alr checked the fuses, so ye grr. headlight bulb needs replacing, im not gon touch the engine ill let car shop fw that one for me. but my power lock. my rear right door, both door handles work perfectly. i just can’t unlock that door w my key, or w the power lock button on my dash. i’m assuming that means replace the actuator. the new windshield fluid pump comes in tmr, im tryna j do all of this at once so i can get my car to pass maryland inspection, so i can get it registered, n yea. 2008 bmw 328xi, 92k miles, got it for 7k cash, rlllllllly not tryna have to pay a car shop multiple thousands to fix this stupid thing. also- follow up question- for my headlight, it has a xenon bulb in it. i think i can j order a normal headlight bulb n hand it to my mechanic like here 🤗 you deal w it- would that make their job harder ? i’ll j order the xenon bulb if so. they quoted me 250 to order that bulb n replace it, that seems fair to me. but this actuator- plzzz tell me that’s all ima needa replace if that one door doesn’t unlock w my key :,) a.co/d/gfg0sTc do you think this actuator would fit it ? somebody in comments on amazon said the screws r tapped, that is not tapped ? can i not just literally screw it in super hard n tap it straight into the plastic ? would that actually be a issue ? how do i make sure a actuator IS tapped ?? i am so slow w this shit j thank u for dealin w me 😅 also GREAT vid- u seriously made me confident enough i’m convinced i CAN pull that whole damn door off if needed, n it’s gon b EASY 😭
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your car. From what you are describing. Yes, it sounds like you have a bad door latch actuator. As far as the actuator and bolt holes are concerned, You should be able to screw them in. The bolts are self-tapping style. For the headlight, I would go with what the repair shop recommends.
@@InitechAuto I FIXED IT BOTH MY BACK DOORS LOCK NOW !!! i am SO happy, $30 part on amazon, i CANNOT believe car shops rlly b charging ppl upwards of 1k for that. jeeeez. i didnt even break ONE door clip ☺️ and i am doin headlight myself, $100 for 2 xenon bulbs, BUT there is a access panel right in the fender liner. also CANNOT believe car shop j told me “we have to take bumper off, so $512.” JUST for the labor. like NO THE FUCK YOU DO NOT. thank you so so much for your help, saved me a LOT of $ 🫶
Lo que estás describiendo es una falla de encendido en esos cilindros. Deberías llevarlo al taller que hizo la reparación y ver si ellos fueron los causantes. Haz que revisen los inyectores y los conectores.
@@michaeljenkins3060 If you have no fuel pressure with power applied. Then your new pump is no good. The fuel pump relay will only apply power in crank mode. If no oil pressure is detected, its will stop power to fuel pump.
Thank you for your informative video. Even though I had previously refered to my Haynes workshop manual for changing my spark plugs, when I came across your video I was impressed by the clear, calm and concise manner you went about explaining how it was done. I had trouble removing the ignition coils on my 2003 318ti, (they look similar to the coils in your video) due to there not being enough room around them to get a proper grip. After a long time of fruitless pulling, I had the idea of putting the end of a wooden spoon handle (a socket extension or screwdriver shaft of the right thickness and length would also have been suitable I think) through the hole of the coil clip and using the top of the engine as a fulcrum. I was initially worried that I might break the clip, but with just a slight push on the other end of the spoon, I was able to easily remove the coils. The Haynes workshop manual mentioned a tip of fitting a short length of 8 mm internal diameter rubber/plastic hose over the end of a spark plug to initially screw it in, so if it starts to cross thread the hose will slip on the plug, thereby preventing thread damage to the cylinder head. I started using a spark plug boot on the end of a wooden dowel to hold spark plugs in place to make it easier to replace them and also to prevent cross threading when replacing spark plugs on my VW Beetle many years ago. I still have that self made tool, so I used it on the BMW again, but the Haynes manual never mentioned the tip of using a lever to remove the ignition coils. I wish they had, as it would have saved me a lot of time and trouble before I came up with the idea to use a lever to remove those stubborn ignition coils!
Mercedes from RICHMOND quote for my 2012 CL550 with 33,000 Km for this issue. To replace the AC hose, we will need to access the AC Compressor. The job involves dropping the subframe as there is limited space. Germany parts are 2-3 weeks away. We can release the vehicle & return for the work when the parts arrive. In the picture, the AC hose have condensation, that is normal condensation as the AC hose is cold. Labor time is approx. 13hrs ($2665) REFRIGERANT LINE - $280 - GERMANY SPACER RING - $8 - GERMANY SEALING RING - $13 - IN STOCK Refrigerant $400 + Alignment $290= $690 Total : $3656+taxes
Yeah no kidding. They need to drop the engine to change an AC hose? You'd think Mercedes having had AC issues going back to the 80's would make this more accessible.. Is there a hose that can be rerouted somewhere else possibly?
@@sarahrose220 That price just seems outrageous. I really think you should get a second opinion from a Mercedes mechanic other than the dealer. Unfortunately, I could not find any info on what it takes to replace the hoses from the A/C compressor for your vehicle.
Great video! I have a strange leak in my W211 system. It will hold a vacuum for hours but leaks refrigerant within hour of the next use. I put some dye in an I think this hose might be the source of the leak but I am puzzled by the fact that the system will hold a vacuum.
Great video! Right on point. The only thing I would recommend to improve the video is to answer the question as to what you will do to fix the problem right from the get go.
It works, but now the door wont open from the outside. Tested it on the other passenger side and noticed that when I pull the handle, some kind of latch moves on the working side but not the new and fixed side.
I know I'm a little late to the party since the date of this video is 3 years ago. I have a 2009 BMW 328i and have done a lot of work on it myself. However, I do have an oil leak and it's probably the oil pan gasket. Need to change it. Car has 161,000 miles. Great video..well done and to the point. Question, since there are a lot of parts disassembled, what other items should I replace as preventive maintenance? I already did the engine mounts, new control arms and sway bar. What can you recommend to replace while it's all disassembled?
What happens long term if you keep driving with broken intake manifold rod tumble flap? Only smoothness of engine operation CO2 or ?? (if engine light is not on dashboard just codes)
Probably nothing. This was my brothers car and he noticed nothing wrong with the car. I found this problem when I was servicing his car and checked for codes. But I would imagine that there would be some low end performance loss.
@@InitechAuto Yes. Same here. I popped my car for service B and report came back that intake manifold rod thumble rod is broken but I noticed nothing. There was still even difference between SPORT and COMFORT drives. But retrospectively I do remember commenting to my son few times that the car was much more powerful first few minutes of driving from cold. I thought this was simply because of choke of some kind. Will see once new one is IN. I declined this repair at first because I had no idea what intake manifold is. I grew up with chokes:) But I think it is worth doing. And rather all not just repair kit. If anyone wondering how much Mercedes quoted for replacement of whole manifold it is $5480 AUD - May 2024. There is one silver lining in this. I asked them to thoroughly detail engine surface when manifold is out (and photo of it). That way entire engine bay will look like new!
Exceptional video, thanks for this. This is a complex job, and you walk through it very well. This video gave me the confidence to do this job on my own.
Taken my Mercedes A class for a a/c top up, but they say I have a leak in the system, have completely checked the system and I can see no leak, if the hose has collapsed would this show on air con dials the same as if the system has a air con leak?
No, the readings would be different. The collasped hose would strictly be a performance issue. Showing a high reading on the low side. While a leak would just show up as low readings.
Ooh okay yea because mine the control arm that's connected to the ball joint was on top tight from the strut I believe this will give me the access to push the strut out thank you I will give this a try pá
exactly what i was looking for. my daughters merc has this problem and it's embarassing to listen to it. gonna get the parts and do the change. any chance it might be the steering rail ball joints instead of these? thanks for the gret vid!
I have never heard of the steering rack tie rods ends squeaking. Maybe the bushings? If you hear the nosie during the bounce test that I do in the begining of the video. Then it's not the tie rod ends.
GREAT! My son and I changed out his struts and ball joints. We used the Unity and Moog ball joints. The ball joint lower bolt was 17 mm for his 2008 E320. Thanks for leaving comments on too because I am learning from others about torque settings etc. I know this saved me on having to take this somewhere. I estimate about $400 on parts through amazon that included some tools.
