So happy to see the chassis back on the channel. Even though it's still in a rough state, I'm confident in your motivation to get the project back and moving forward again. Can't wait to see more progress on the car bro!! We've all missed it so much.
Great to see you back at it with the sedan... Love that persistance! As for the copper colored welds: They probably used a welding wire made from a copper/silicon alloy (Cu/Si 3) which (i have heard) is a process well suited to the bodywork on a car. It is more comparable to soldering than to welding and causes less heat stress on the workpiece, also is alot easier to grind down since it is softer than "normal" welding wire. It can also solder galvanized metals leaving the galvanization intact. Usually regular mig welders can handle this process too, i'd advise looking into it. Though i must admit i am a mere keyboardwarrior at the moment, i haven't quite commited to using it myself though i do plan on doing so. Love your work, i wish you the best of luck with parts hunting and getting the work knocked out!
Thanks, AllBoardsCreatives! Great comment and although just you're currently a warrior, I think you're spot on... That sounds about right to me at least. I feel less bad about them now. Big thanks mate, really appreciate it.
As a body repair man with 42 years experience I feel for you with the Spanish post blasting mess you ended up with, the copper coloured welds are plug brazing, you really need a proper spot weld drill with a spring loaded starter and a hole saw behind which only goes as far as the first panel. As far as primer for bare metal goes if you prep using steel wool then etch primer (which is acid based) before your 2 pack primer you won't have adhesion problems. The wheel arches are the same on 2 door and 4 door cars so a 4 door donor car will work.
Welcome back old friend E30. Really looking forward to you restarting this project. It's clear that's the one that brings you the most satisfaction and it shows in this video. That chassis blasting was one of the most satisfying montages I've seen on this channel, let alone YT
I’m working on a morris minor traveller for four years and in only half way there my grandson Cooper is a grate help and only ten keep up the good work
Oh dear, I hope you're careful blasting that roof. It's apparently pretty easy to warp the metal while sandblasting on large flat panels like that. Don't feel too bad about stripping the other car. Sometimes cars need to give up their parts to save other cars.
Like the guy before me, I didnt bother doing most of the roof. it still has the original coating from the factory, and I think i'm just going to epoxy over that.
You have come such a long way since way back then. There is no stopping you with the E30 now and it looks like more interesting videos for ages to come. Big cheers. 😊
Great video. Glad you’re back on track. I don’t think you had any option but to use the other chassis. If you’d sold it for £500, the buyer would probably have just stripped and sold it anyway!
I know it`s probably too late, but for sieving your media, I`ve found that you can take regular sieve (metal, for kitchen application) tape the handle to the blade of a jig saw (so the blade is parallel to the handle) and start the saw. it really shakes that sieve, and makes it easier than shaking it or moving it by hand. faster too.
Love to see you getting on with the E30! Came for that very project, stayed for the quality. Regarding the inner panels, try contacting KOED in Denmark. They are true magicians when it comes to finding classic stuff.
@@RestoreIt Koed are the only ones I go to for buying parts for my E30 (or any other BMW I might have at the time). They have a department here in Norway too and is run by knowledgeable enthusiasts :)
Amazed at the amount of work you’ve put in and committed to going forwards. Thanks for taking us along on this journey, remember life is about the journey not the destination.
you never fail to mesmerise me with your tenacity and efforts this disaster would be enough to dishearten me and give up lol but not you, you see it as a challenge and a chance even improve upon it, i am really trying to be more like you in this respect i cannot wait to see the outcome and the journey along the way, e30s are one of the best cars ever made.
Hi. I had the same problem with My 323i E30 Resto 11 years ago. Those copper welds were used right up to the E46, but because I had no access to brazing arc weld, I went the MIG way. Keep up the great work and it is a joy to see!
Love the content. As someone who's had a whole car blasted I would just like to say NEVER touch flat panels with a sand blaster if you can avoid it. Does horrible things to the crown of the panel, especially if you cant hit both sides with the blaster. I spent many weekends hammering my roof back in some semblance of shape and even more on my doors and trunklid.
Thanks for the advice Ivanae! I will be leaving the roof alone like the previous blaster did. And as for the quarters I've removed, I was going to blast the whole thing, but I think you're right. i'll find a less aggressive way of stripping them down. Cheers!
Sometimes a fresh (and this is fresh) start is best once your knowledge and skill has increased. I also look at the work I did years ago now on mine and regret how I went around things.
I agree. But yes, a very fresh start. I think we all go through things like this... the only thing is i'm showing everyone everything which can be a bit daunting.
The original E30 is BACK! Finally!!! oooh ive been looking forward to this for over a year. And i LOVE sandblasting videos so this one is going in my favorites!
This came up on my suggestions, I've watched the while video....I love E30's and this has got me hooked, can't waitnto see the full build buddy!! Top work my man!
you should do chemical dip stripping and then An electrophoretic coating. There are a couple of companies in I’m offering this service. It’s the same process used by oems just in more industrial scale :) but this best be done after all the repairs are done 👍🏻 dipping will make sure that all internal corrosion is removed and and electrophoretic coating is also dipping so all nooks and crannies will be 100% protected.
This is something I really want to do. And I'm glad you made the point that its best to do this after all of the repairs are sorted. Although this epoxy feels like great progress it is only to protect the metal. I'm sure you know this, i'm just telling myself. So I really will look into companies that offer this service and see what i can do. Thanks for the advice, really appreciate it. Cheers!
@@RestoreIt dont dip the car whatever you do. acid gets between the seams and rots the car from the inside out. sandblasting is the way you want to go. and hot zinc spray galvanizing. with cavity wax in the cavities.
this is not a good idea. the consensus now is that acid dipping a car does way more harm than good. It very common for acid to get between the lapped panels and seams, and its often very difficult, if not impossible to fully neutralize and remove. galvanizing wont get in there, nor electroplating because it forms a faraday cage. What you end up with is a shell with many, many areas of bare metal with acid on it, all hidden. over time this rusts and pushes the seams apart.
@@RestoreIt Don’t dip it. You can never neutralise all the acid and it will come out in time and it will rust again. Watch Retropower’s videos where they explain how they blast and hot zinc spray their shells.
For me, this has been one of the most satisfying videos you have put out. You have improved drastically in every aspect of the work you do, your narration, and the provided details. Keep up the good work and keep up these videos. Thanks for your hard work.
Great to see the e30 is back. Been there, done that (again). Got mine done 2 years ago after a restoration of 6 years. Number 2 is now a rotisserie and being build as a rally car. But I think your donor is/was better then number 2 😂. Great content as always and I am looking forward to the next video! 💪👍
Thank you Casper! This does make me feel better about everything! 6 years sounds about right to me! The fact you're on number two is a great sign. I think I'll be like you and have another one on the go as soon as this is finished. Cheers mate.
The Cooper welds is actually mig bracing, it's needed in some places where the vehicle twist too much for mig welds. Some people replace mig welds with mig braces, as does Opels from the GM time too. Think of it more like glueing the pieces together than making them one.
They gas well with brass.. its called brazing and is use in automotive alot.. all of your older cars pretty much have the roof pillars,package tray and various other panel seams brazed together to keep heat low and reduce warping.. then the rest are pretty much your body spot welds.. I would love to see him practice brazing on some of this
Potentially such a beautiful car! (I had the four door version back in the eighties) I hope you manage to carry on and get this beauty rolling again! Good luck young man👍😊
Blimey - that's a big project. Best of luck with that. Regarding the rear inner arch/wheel wells, unless they're totally rotten, I would use inner arch lip repair panels. Seen several body shops and classic car restorers use inner arch lip repair panels rather than removing the entire inner wheelwell because it's a huge job which entails putting the shell on a frame or adding temporary bracing and that's assuming you can find a good used part or a NOS panel. And it's quite possible to hide seam welds for patch panels - especially once the epoxy primers, filler primer, paint and underseal goes on.
Nice to see you back on this project. Don't feel bad about pulling the quarters off the other chassis. Better it get some use rather than just getting crushed.
Yes! Finally the real stuff again and why I subscribed to your channel in the first place! Hope you enjoyed your little Mercedes adventure, but time to get the real deal back! 😊
The "copper" color is due to brazing.. they did this instead of mig welding as it requires less heat and that results in little to no warping. Cheers. Glad to see this back on the channel..
I've seen repair welds on body panels come up copper-coloured as well. I assume it's some additive to weld filler metal to make it easier to weld, but couldn't say for sure. Ah, the project that was probably the first time I came across your channel! Yes, your welding skills have certainly come a long way - my learning of welding is only just beginning. I have a lot of practice to do before I am anywhere close to your competency! One thing that hasn't changed is watching your channel, and the work you do, being very soothing. It's great to see someone doing something they are passionate about, and learning along with them.
The car that made me want to start a car project. This is the kind of stuff you need to see as a beginner to understand just how big of a task this entire thing os
Great video. Enjoyed watching the blasting in quick time. I think alot of others may have given up on that shell but somehow knew you never would. Well done.
Well done. Do not feel sorry for the chopped chassis - having one good car from two donors is better than having two pieces of scrap metal. Much better. Keep the pace now you are in it and the car will work out better than new.
Glad to see that the E30 is back in your hands! I highly doubt it will be anywhere close to 2074 before it is complete and back on the road. Looking forward to your continuing content on this and all your other projects.
It seems like forever when you started on this. Glad you are back on it. Using the other car as a donor is a deffo! Good luck your skills have come a long way since you last touched this.
If the welding is copper or brass coloured it is more than likely brazing (gas welding) - Great video - All the very best of luck with restoring your BMW E30 325i 👍👍👍
What about using the other car's panels to make molds for glass/carbon fiber replacements. You can use the space between panels to add small beams or tubes to maintain rigidity, and use the glass/carbon fiber ones to keep the original style.
Por-15 have a product called metal prep (or ready, it's been a while) that helps prevent flash rusting while the car is being worked on. It will remove some light rust and etches bare metal.
Hi! Great to see the progress you are making! On the repairs you said were done in Spain - the copper color. Not sure if anybody has commented on that, but I remember hearing from one of my professors (a long time ago) that using some copper alloy is a very effective way to join overlapping metal parts. This method can be used as alternative to seam welding for stiffening the shell for racing… .
Good to see it back mate. You are right to chop up that shell for the quarters. You be insane to try and save that, its just too bad. We wont go down the road of lads asking big money for stuff on GeeBay. Pure greed....nothing more.
You cant go wrong with the name brands Hobart, Miller and Lincoln. You should also look at the Alpha TIG, they are extremely popular for a cheap overseas TIG, i love mine. If you go with MIG only, look for one that can do a spool gun, that way you can weld aluminum later if you don't end up getting a TIG later.
Steve you're a bull dog! You don't have any quit in you. 😂 Man I enjoyed the music, the story, you being hard on yourself, and the progression of your work.
I've been waiting for it to return but damn! Sad to see one go but it's taking one for the e30 team so it's probably okay with it. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
Good decision parting out the other car. You will make sure that everything useable is used or passed on. That is better than it would've gotten anywhere else that far gone.
Great video, seeing the rebuild from that state will be great to follow. You said it was very satisfying to grit blast the panels, it was also very satisfying to watch the rust disappear and knowing the entire chassis is done properly. How do you get rid of any rust within the channels ?
Thanks, Shane! Glad you enjoyed it. As for the rust within the channels. The shot blaster can only do so much. The original E coating is still in place on the inside. Thankfully I can see and get to most places on the car. If you want to absolutely strip the car of every coating and rust, you need to dip the car in acid and have it E coated again to protect it fully.
R-Tech in Gloucestershire are who you need to speak to for welders, semi pro stuff at very reasonable prices and brilliant warranty and support, I have had 3 welders off them now.
Totally feel you on looking at work you've done and thinking how much better it could have been - I did some repairs on my E39 M5 that I cannot wait to redo once I get stuck in to the full resto I plan. Since doing those patches, I've really progressed after working on cars that I care about less and learned a lot, especially about doing good repairs on thin sheet metal. Fitzees Fabrications has been an amazing channel on YT for building up the skills on that count. If you're after welders, I'd suggest the stuff R-Tech makes - got their MIG 180 machine and it is much, much better than the basic Clarkes unit I used. Far more control and so much easier to use - while I'd be blowing holes in anything I touched with the latter, with the R-Tech I stitched in a full quarter on my van without any issues, just working back and forth to minimise distortion. I've got an E30 318is that's in far worse shape than your E30, so good luck with it and I look forward to seeing how this pans out! Edit: The other channel I found that was great for info on rust prevention, undersealing and so on was Trev's Blog - plus he has some really good stuff on welding panels too.
about the copper coloured welds, take a sander to it and see if it makes sparks. If it doesnt, they've brazed the metal on using a torch and a brazing rod. Have had experience with bodyshops doing dodgy work myself.