tks for your video, made the job a lot easier than I would think. please note some differences --- have 2001 E38 iL the current configuration differs somewhat. the ignition switch is " housed" in a open bracket. There are 2 star shaped bolts holding it in place, remove the front one near the red dot, this will allow you bend back the bracket and insert the switch, the other it is near impossible to get to (dont have every tool) Also thre bottom housing of mine, is attached with leather strips at the corners, didnt wanna remove them, but once you remove the dimmer parts, all the parts will just drop down, and out of the way
You missed showing the very important bit of removing the heavy plastic holder that holds the switch up against the key shaft. I couldn't see how to access the small screws that keep the switch in place before the holder is reassembled, and realized that two bolts have to come out, one on the left side of the steering column just above the switch and one underneath the steering column that is adjacent to a couple of small wire looms. You can see the placement of the left bolt at 3:05, there is a wrench engaged with the bolt on that side. Those are Torx T30 bolts, so make sure you have the correct bit or screwdriver. You will also have to clip through a zip tie that holds a wire bundle up against the switch. Once this is out of the way then you can find the little sealed areas with the set screws that hold the switch in place. The missing pin in your switch examination section is because when you disassembled the switch you lost the center section of the rotating cam, that has to push forward and connect a pair of contacts on the far left (outside) of the switch. That thing kind of springs apart -when I took mine apart I had things flying all over so I don't blame you if you missed it when you disassembled yours :-) Other than that this video really helped me figure out what all I had to do to tackle this project, and I thank you!
that starter switch mechanism is Not much different internally designed than the switch I had pulled out of My 1995 chevrolet A year or two back. Used the notches on the tumbler and contact points but a big difference is it used solid copper rockers with small seperate coil springs to push the rockers onto the contacts, instead of just the whole spring as the contact. BMW made a pretty simplistic design there.
very helpfull video really is.. thanks for upload man.. you are a star..... i got a question bro... do you know where is the alternator wire in bmw 320d 3 series? that is coming to battery? is it also passing through trunk by any chance? actually i am installing secondry battery and a split charging replay switch. i am looking for a 12v ignition wire. which only powers when we twist the key twice. by any chance is that wire somewhere in trunk too? please help. many thanks.
on my car the key won't turn. ane day i got home and i couldn't turn off the car, so i pulled a fuse and it turn off but the switch stay on, now i can't turn it off or on. i purchase a new key but i still have the same problem! what is it?
I would think you would have to do a search for 'Lock (with key code)' part number 32320002723. $101.00. If you replace the entire unit the the key may have to be coded back to the car.
