This method worked for me! After reading a bunch of 'how to's' on discussion forums, having the FSM at hand, looking for the factory tool to buy, wondering and worrying, I used this method to remove the intake and exhaust camshafts without issue. I consider myself a shade-tree mechanic, and have rebuilt various autos from the ground up (mostly older landcruisers) but this is my first time dealing with something at touchy as a BMW hollow camshaft. So I was truly relieved that the process - and the 'why' behind it - was explained so well, and understandably here. Bottom line is same as the first: this worked for me (with little experience in this particular area). THANKS!
Hey man, super thankful for all your videos! Been watching for a couple years now. Just got a 323i with an m54 for free that's got some lifter noise and thanks to you I'll be able to tackle the job with confidence!
I ended up using a 24 compartment storage tray from Harbor Freight that I had. I used one for the lifters and another to store the springs and keepers and keeper retainers when I disassembled the valves in the next video. It's this one, worked perfectly: www.harborfreight.com/24-compartment-large-storage-container-61881.html
Bearing cap #1 needs to be removed first otherwise there is a risk of gauging into the sleeve. Official times to wait for the buckets to shrink are: 20 degrees C - 4 minutes. 10-20 degrees C - 11 minutes. 0 to 10 degrees C - 30 minutes. That is the time you wait before you can turn the engine over.
Just for anyone who reads the comments.........If you install the lifter trays incorrectly, i.e. you put A for air intake and E for exhaust.....the trays WON'T seat correctly and sit flat..... Just a little tip for you all. Love this guys vids...
If you put magnets on top of the lifters you magnetize it all. After that, they will catch all micro iron filings that pass by. Maybe the solution to prevent that is to demagnetize them with a coil connected to AC current. Thanks for the video that is very helpful.
Excellent lighting and camara, description of procedure. Would like to be shown condition of camshaft bearing sufaces and journal surfaces of some caps--particularly the last cylindar, in as much as these notoriously show the most wear.
The manufacturers seem to have an obsession with TDC and go to great lengths to perform all work at TDC. Just do as you did and turn the engine over a little. In general it's 1/number of cylinders for an engine with an even number.
12:10 lol perhaps i misunderstand but absolutely no chance i am reinstalling everything after the lifters in less than half an hour...the cams, timing parts, cover, vanos, intake, throttle, disa, wirrimg harness, oil dip stick tube, connectors, air box and pipes, belts, fans, firewall....
OK so after the cams are in, is it safe to go ahead and put the crank on TDC or are the valves going to be in the way of moving the crank. It doesnt not show between this video and the next. I just finished the bottom end and got my head back from the machine shop with new valves today. Btw the lifter repair video was great. I thought i was going to need new lifters because some were stuck.
1986 735i with once camshaft lobe worn (tick, tick noises), is there a lifter shim to compensate it? Or do you know which would be less to get a top half engine or getting a camshaft? Can't find them new so many are rusted/used on the internet & come with high prices.
Hey, do you know how important the lifter outside diameter to cam tray bore clearance is? Mine have a good amount of wear. But they cost about $570 each. Will I have oil starvation issues for the cam or lifters if that clearance isn't good? Great video by the way.
HELP!! My son and I recently tore into his 2004 E46 (325ci) to replace his valve stem seals. After we got it all put back together (timing reset and all that stuff) it cranks but doesn't start. The electrical box under the air intake buzzes if the key is in position 2, and for a few seconds after the key is turned back off. We did get a P1625 pedal position code, double checked all the connections, and the code hasn't reset since, but still the engine is turning but not firing up. Sounds a bit funny too. Any ideas what could be wrong, what we should try to double check first?
I made a blunder - when installing the exhaust cam as per your procedure, the crank was at TDC 😟. I noticed this while installing E5 and E3 nuts. E3 wouldn't bottom out and that's when I checked and found the crank at TDC. E5 cap had bottomed out. I was replacing the valve stem seals. After I turned the crank off TDC, all went well with reinstallation of the exhaust cam. But did I already damage my engine by attempting to install the cam while crank was still at TDC???
Anyone know how much wear on the cam bearings is acceptable? I have noticeable wear marks on just the exhaust cam and ledge, can barely feel some with my finger. Can't find any used ones that are in better shape, they all seem to have the same wear.
Surprising to me that the camshafts run on the lifter runner with no replaceable bearings. I did not see you removing any bearing material. So when something goes wrong you have to replace the whole thing. Right?
hey please help i was changing my valve cover gasket and i found 3 loose bolt studs of the camshaft caps i did buy new bolt studs but they didnt work so the problem is in the holes of thsese bolts what should i do? should take the head off or they can fix these holes without removing the head
So I'm looking at a 2001 325 and the owner said he did the head gasket but broke a camshaft when putting it back on. Would the camshafts from my 2000 328i fit? And is there anything else I should be weary of or look for in the 2001?
Do I put the auflass (exhaust) camshaft back on in the same position as the einlass (intake)? With cam lobe 2 slightly to the left and lobe 4 to the right of top dead center??
each lifter will wear out slightly different from the rest so if you want it to seat the best it can, and last long it must be done in order if not it’ll wear out prematurely
That is coming up soon as part of this rebuild series. Might have to wait a while for the head reinstall video but I will shoot a quick scene showing how I intend to reinstall the head and put it on the end of the "removal" video so that you can figure out how to reinstall it without waiting for my eventual reinstall video, which won't be out for a few months probably or however long it takes to put out all the other bottom end rebuild videos.
It means one of the pairs of valves is hitting one of the pistons which is at or near top dead center because they are not timed correctly. Redo everything and make sure you lock your #1 piston at top dead center with the locking pin.
Can you do a rough sketch and dimensions on the tool you made for removing the “keepers” and springs please? I really enjoy your videos. They have helped me tremendously!!!
Hi, my e46 with M54B22 was runing rich lately and actually had stalled couple times. I watched all your videos about rich condition and etc. Did change fuel filter and pump, MAF with OEM ones. Checked for air leaks just in case but no luck. O2 sensors, VANOS seals and DISA are ok. No errors, no CEL but the car barely moves at lower RPM. So i took it to the shop and the guy said it's intake lifters got stuck that's why it runs rich. Can it run rich because of that, even tho engine does NOT make any rattling or ticking sounds?
The flat washer fell into the motor into the chain section . The motor is spinning , but l don’t know what to do ? I don’t want to remove the front cover….
Dear 50s kid there is a question i wanna ask you i own a 330ci e46 and i am facing some problems with misfires w fuel cutoffs i replaced all the essential (sparks, coils, injectors) components but still runs rough when cold and misfires my mechanic insists that the problem are the lifters of the car btw no6 cyl has a within limits low compression rate. Can lifters associate with the missfires and roughness!!! Thanks in advance!!!
A piece of welding rod, cut to length will sit on the magnets and prevent the buckets from falling out of place when you lift the cam blocks up off the head.
Working on an engine replacement on 2006 X5 used a 2003 motor with 40 k from a wreck but it was laying for a long time. bottom end was pickeled and in great shape. top end look like new. but all the lifters were stuck. we used your videos all the way thru. Cleaned and tested all the lifters, by the way the intake and exhaust were different. After all that work still clacking like hell. Drove it around and still have the noise. Could it take an extended period to bleed those lifters. great oil pressure and vanos is working fine. Any suggestions
Sounds like just one lifter, we cleaned them all and tested them all on the bench, He's going to drive it for a while and see if that one lifter clears. if not if were going to open it up again were thinking of replacing them all with ECS lifters. A lot of work for one lifter. We tried to identify the sticky lifter by taking the valve cover off and starting it. Don't ever do that unless you want to get sprayed with oil. Sure ain't like a small block chevy. Looked like we hit black gold, but on the other hand we found out we had great oil pressure. I really thank you for replying, By the way we bought a Chineasium cam lock tool for 150 bucks and it didn't fit. could have ground it down but we got it back without it. That's going back. Just a warning all the kits aren't the same. Can't tell you how much your videos helped us. Thanks again
I’m rebuilding my engine, and have been following you tutorials and I’ve run into a problem. I got the engine out together, but I can’t turn the crank more than 20-30 degrees both ways from TDC? Did I mess up the timing? I have the timing kit and followed instructions to the tee
50sKid okay fair point, they do still wear to the lifters but id only keep them in the same place if i wanted the job to be perfect. If it were my own vehicle or something. I know they wont make noises if you mix them.
